Review-I'll be the guinea pig for the new SD59225U-HNI PTZ.

[Cameraguy]

I

You'll probably need to take it down and bench test everything thoroughly if you want to get rid of the hum. Otherwise you'll probably have to live with it or filter after the fact in recordings.

I bench tested for like a month and was all good.. hopefully its winding cables together.. ill keep ya posted

 

[tangent]

I bench tested for like a month and was all good.. hopefully its winding cables together.. ill keep ya posted

same length cables and everything?
It's a little hard to see some of the connections in your pictures.

I'm not sure what I'm looking at in this picture:

The label I put the green box around is a part of my confusion. I don't see a reason to connect a barrel jack to the camera's ac in and the mic already has one.

I'd still like to see a photo of the install, even if it's a bit distant.

 

[Cameraguy]

same length cables and everything?
It's a little hard to see some of the connections in your pictures.

I'm not sure what I'm looking at in this picture:
View attachment 27296
The label I put the green box around is a part of my confusion. I don't see a reason to connect a barrel jack to the camera's ac in and the mic already has one.

I'd still like to see a photo of the install, even if it's a bit distant.

I put that barrell on the power for ease of connecting 20ft off the ground.

 

[Cameraguy]

same length cables and everything?
It's a little hard to see some of the connections in your pictures.

I'm not sure what I'm looking at in this picture:
View attachment 27296
The label I put the green box around is a part of my confusion. I don't see a reason to connect a barrel jack to the camera's ac in and the mic already has one.

I'd still like to see a photo of the install, even if it's a bit distant.

Yea power to mic and rca to mic same length.. havent got a chance to unreavel it yet

 

[tangent]

Yea power to mic and rca to mic same length.. havent got a chance to unreavel it yet

what I meant was are the installed cables the same as the bench test ones (same type, and length).

I put that barrell on the power for ease of connecting 20ft off the ground.

If I wanted to make the install easier, I wouldn't have used the screw terminal block or added a barrel jack. I would have used these:
https://www.amazon.com/Wago-222-413-LEVER-NUTS-Conductor-Connectors/dp/B000JJPA66/ or maybe skotchloks
I would of even chopped off the barrel jack on the 12v supply output. I probably would wouldn't have used a premade rca cable either, but there isn't anything wrong with doing that.

What kind of wire did you run to power the mic?

 

[Cameraguy]

what I meant was are the installed cables the same as the bench test ones (same type, and length).

If I wanted to make the install easier, I wouldn't have used the screw terminal block or added a barrel jack. I would have used these:
https://www.amazon.com/Wago-222-413-LEVER-NUTS-Conductor-Connectors/dp/B000JJPA66/ or maybe skotchloks
I would of even chopped off the barrel jack on the 12v supply output. I probably would wouldn't have used a premade rca cable either, but there isn't anything wrong with doing that.

What kind of wire did you run to power the mic?

Yes same wires.. the hum seems to be much lower using the web interface.. blue iris is much more loud.. not sure the exact wire, just a basic extention. Funny when i watch a video that is recorded to the cameras sd card there is little to no feedback..

 

[Cameraguy]

what I meant was are the installed cables the same as the bench test ones (same type, and length).

If I wanted to make the install easier, I wouldn't have used the screw terminal block or added a barrel jack. I would have used these:
https://www.amazon.com/Wago-222-413-LEVER-NUTS-Conductor-Connectors/dp/B000JJPA66/ or maybe skotchloks
I would of even chopped off the barrel jack on the 12v supply output. I probably would wouldn't have used a premade rca cable either, but there isn't anything wrong with doing that.

What kind of wire did you run to power the mic?

So these are deer.. they are walking right thru an intrusion box yet the ivs isnt tracking any of them.. i know they are pretty small but blue iris is catching it and detecting motion and recording..

I guess my question: Is there a way to increase the sensitivity of the tracking? I mean if they are breaking thru the intrusion box, shouldnt the cameras tracking be activating?

 

[beepsilver]

So these are deer.. they are walking right thru an intrusion box yet the ivs isnt tracking any of them.. i know they are pretty small but blue iris is catching it and detecting motion and recording..

I guess my question: Is there a way to increase the sensitivity of the tracking? I mean if they are breaking thru the intrusion box, shouldnt the cameras tracking be activating?

Can you upload a screen shot of your intrusion box(es) / tripwires? At first glance I'd say the deer is too small and the lack of contrast on the movement makes it difficult for IVS to catch it. At the very least you'll need to draw the minimum size for your box very very small, but then you'll be getting more false alarms.

 

[Cameraguy]

Can you upload a screen shot of your intrusion box(es) / tripwires? At first glance I'd say the deer is too small and the lack of contrast on the movement makes it difficult for IVS to catch it. At the very least you'll need to draw the minimum size for your box very very small, but then you'll be getting more false alarms.

Here is my intrusion and target filter.. im not worried about false alarms..

 

[beepsilver]

Your Max/Min boxes are set just fine for the area. I'm fairly certain lack of lighting and contrast of the target are the reasons you missed tracking that particular deer at that distance. Had the deer been 10-15 yards closer to your camera it'd have been worse because the deer would have been nearly blacked out altogether in that band of shadow just beyond your IR. A couple of things you can do assuming you don't want to put up a second camera:

Add external lighting to illuminate dark areas.
Change your PTZ IR setting to Zoomprio with max distance (although this may white-out near objects and the light acts as a spotlight and would be off-center of the deer as you have your camera set up now.
Or you can create a zoomed preset closer to the target area with an intrusion box where you want it and then set a video detection event of that target area with very sensitive settings ensuring the "PTZ" option is selected on the Event>Video Detection>Motion Detection tab. Then, when motion is detected in the sensitive area you've marked, the camera will PTZ to the target area and your new IVS settings will take over detection for the target area. Unfortunately there are a couple of drawbacks to this idea: 1) it takes several seconds for IVS to take over detection and then react to motion, so a fast moving target (running deer) may get through the target area before the camera gets positioned/ready (set fast PTZ) 2) the motion detection area you set up in the previous preset will move with any PTZ movement and may interfere with tracking--so experiment with the motion detection area(s) with the idea that after PTZing off the second preset, a second alarm in the motion detection area will likely take your camera back to the preset. During daylight hours you'll likely not need the second preset, so you can set timeframes for both the video motion detection and your second preset to be off during these hours. I've played with this only a little myself, so experimentation will be key. Let me know if I can clarify anything and good luck!

 

[Cameraguy]

Your Max/Min boxes are set just fine for the area. I'm fairly certain lack of lighting and contrast of the target are the reasons you missed tracking that particular deer at that distance. Had the deer been 10-15 yards closer to your camera it'd have been worse because the deer would have been nearly blacked out altogether in that band of shadow just beyond your IR. A couple of things you can do assuming you don't want to put up a second camera:

Add external lighting to illuminate dark areas.
Change your PTZ IR setting to Zoomprio with max distance (although this may white-out near objects and the light acts as a spotlight and would be off-center of the deer as you have your camera set up now.
Or you can create a zoomed preset closer to the target area with an intrusion box where you want it and then set a video detection event of that target area with very sensitive settings ensuring the "PTZ" option is selected on the Event>Video Detection>Motion Detection tab. Then, when motion is detected in the sensitive area you've marked, the camera will PTZ to the target area and your new IVS settings will take over detection for the target area. Unfortunately there are a couple of drawbacks to this idea: 1) it takes several seconds for IVS to take over detection and then react to motion, so a fast moving target (running deer) may get through the target area before the camera gets positioned/ready (set fast PTZ) 2) the motion detection area you set up in the previous preset will move with any PTZ movement and may interfere with tracking--so experiment with the motion detection area(s) with the idea that after PTZing off the second preset, a second alarm in the motion detection area will likely take your camera back to the preset. During daylight hours you'll likely not need the second preset, so you can set timeframes for both the video motion detection and your second preset to be off during these hours. I've played with this only a little myself, so experimentation will be key. Let me know if I can clarify anything and good luck!

Great reply!! Im not really that concerned with catching those deer on tracking if its that involved of a process.. i do want to catch all incoming traffic, although very few cars come in.. ive noticed night tracking is much less reliable than daylight.. At night the car headlights basically blind the camera. I did find that lowering the zoom speed will allow ivs to track better at further distances. I had it at 100% and camera was missing objects, so i lowered to 50% and tracking has improved with vehicles approaching the turnaround. I may lower it more to see if it improves more..

 

[beepsilver]

Experimentation is definitely called for in order to meet your goals with only one camera and limited lighting. Headlights at night definitely pose a problem for autotracking. Maybe try creating a few smaller intrusion boxes far apart along the road--add more for foot traffic closer to your house. The first box on the road (upper left) may in fact detect headlights, making the camera zoom to that location. Perhaps proper tracking can occur once the vehicle arrives at the box--if not, then maybe the second box. Several seconds may elapse so, some adjustments on your part may be necessary--such as moving the box further to the right, adjusting min box size, PTZ speed, etc. But try to set it up for the most benefit because you won't be able to track everything because of variable vehicle speeds, ambient lighting, headlight brightness, etc. Nefarious types may also walk/drive up without headlights on, so you'll need to keep that in mind as well.

If you have two presets that can cover the entire road, at night you can tell IVS upon detection on preset 1 to go to preset 2 and wait for the target to enter the FOV. Headlights can still pose a problem, but vehicles are likely to be slower and more easily tracked there (in/near the turnaround).

Have you experimented Blue Iris' PTZ controls for tracking (you still need IVS setup in your camera)? It can be quite involved though.

The second small intrusion box (top center) may be far enough around the bend in the road to miss detection of headlights before a vehicle enters the FOV. Recording 24/7 can help with missed events in the event tracking fails.

 

[Cameraguy]

Experimentation is definitely called for in order to meet your goals with only one camera and limited lighting. Headlights at night definitely pose a problem for autotracking. Maybe try creating a few smaller intrusion boxes far apart along the road--add more for foot traffic closer to your house. The first box on the road (upper left) may in fact detect headlights, making the camera zoom to that location. Perhaps proper tracking can occur once the vehicle arrives at the box--if not, then maybe the second box. Several seconds may elapse so, some adjustments on your part may be necessary--such as moving the box further to the right, adjusting min box size, PTZ speed, etc. But try to set it up for the most benefit because you won't be able to track everything because of variable vehicle speeds, ambient lighting, headlight brightness, etc. Nefarious types may also walk/drive up without headlights on, so you'll need to keep that in mind as well.

If you have two presets that can cover the entire road, at night you can tell IVS upon detection on preset 1 to go to preset 2 and wait for the target to enter the FOV. Headlights can still pose a problem, but vehicles are likely to be slower and more easily tracked there (in/near the turnaround).

Have you experimented Blue Iris' PTZ controls for tracking (you still need IVS setup in your camera)? It can be quite involved though.

The second small intrusion box (top center) may be far enough around the bend in the road to miss detection of headlights before a vehicle enters the FOV.
View attachment 27314

Awesome man.. yea its alot of trial and error but it can be so fine tuned to be great.. i never heard of those settings in blue iris.. ill have to research that.. thanks!

 

[beepsilver]

PTZ tab in BI....help file is your friend there. Good luck!

 

[looney2ns]

Awesome man.. yea its alot of trial and error but it can be so fine tuned to be great.. i never heard of those settings in blue iris.. ill have to research that.. thanks!

Additional IR illumination to cover the dark areas can help.

 

[Cameraguy]

How are you powering the mic?
You are referring to the Microseven mic, correct?
If you extended the audio cable, did you use ...good... shielded cable?
Mic isn't mounted close to a light that is controlled by a dimmer?

I'm using the Microseven mic, and don't have any hum issues with my SD59225U-HNI.

Update:
So i separated the 2 cords, turned down the mic volume. Very little hum coming from mic now.. also i went into blue iris and turned down the gain to 50% under audio tab.. thanks everyone

 

[Jaxon]

You have to set it up as ONVIF camera in the Hik NVR and use port 80 to access it. Then it's straight forward from there.

I initially set the camera to obtain an IP via DHCP. This works on my home LAN, but didn't work from the NVR. So I set a static IP (192.168.254.56) and then in the NVR "Configuring the Camera Parameters" I entered that IP, port 80, uname/passwd and chose ONVIF. The status updated to "Connected".

So far so good, I can log into the camera with Internet Explorer and see video etc.

(the following has nothing to do with my issue, but shared in case anyone wants to do it this way):
I add a static route from my PC for the 192.168.254.0/24 to my Asus router (192.168.1.1). Then on the Asus Router I add another static route 192.168.254.0/24 pointing back to the NVR IP on the home LAN 192.168.1.174. This allows me to connect to all my cameras on the NVR subnet.

The problem I am having is that I can't see any video from the camera through the NVR iVMS-4200 Main View. I doesn't appear in the list of cameras. If I dig into the NVR settings, like the remote configuration / Image settings, then I can see the video there.

So it's likely that I'm missing something simple. Any suggestions are appreciated.

 

[Jaxon]

I initially set the camera to obtain an IP via DHCP. This works on my home LAN, but didn't work from the NVR. So I set a static IP (192.168.254.56) and then in the NVR "Configuring the Camera Parameters" I entered that IP, port 80, uname/passwd and chose ONVIF. The status updated to "Connected".

So far so good, I can log into the camera with Internet Explorer and see video etc.

(the following has nothing to do with my issue, but shared in case anyone wants to do it this way):
I add a static route from my PC for the 192.168.254.0/24 to my Asus router (192.168.1.1). Then on the Asus Router I add another static route 192.168.254.0/24 pointing back to the NVR IP on the home LAN 192.168.1.174. This allows me to connect to all my cameras on the NVR subnet.

The problem I am having is that I can't see any video from the camera through the NVR iVMS-4200 Main View. I doesn't appear in the list of cameras. If I dig into the NVR settings, like the remote configuration / Image settings, then I can see the video there.

So it's likely that I'm missing something simple. Any suggestions are appreciated.

Adding some info, on the NVR itself it says "Unsupported stream type". I noticed my camera is flashed with a PAL firmware. I believe the NVR is NTSC, could this be the issue?

 

[jaygen]

That quote from Andy was a long time ago. There was a batch of 303S's that weren't square, so he was providing the 303W with the camera while the 303S was being remedied. 303W was only $19 last summer, but I see they have increased the prices at B&H lately. Andy has them cheaper, but his shipping may push it higher. I've used both many times, with a few SD59's, an SD49 an SD6AE240. They both get the job done. The additional waterproof gasket the 303W has (I believe the "W" signifies waterproof) is a plus, as it seals against the junction box using a double gasket (one on 303W and one on the PFA120).

That leads to my next point. I'm not sure the PFA120 Junction Box will fit behind the corner mount? Maybe, as all installs are unique and custom. One area that won't be available are the knockouts on the J-Box, as they will be blocked by the wings of the corner mount. That may not be an issue for your install though. One good thing is the PFA151 corner mount comes with 4 concrete anchors that will allow you to secure it to your masonry quite easily. Drill a hole, (1/2" I believe), tap them in and bolt right through them. They expand and wedge in to the masonry.

The camera will monitor your driveway, but don't get it for auto-tracking alone. It can be quirky, and provide erratic results at times if not set up properly, and expectations are too high. I will say it works better with the subject approaching straight at the camera, than perpendicular. Even then, the results may not be what you expect from auto-tracking. You get this camera for its awesome lens and zoom, low light sensor, and all around value for a PTZ. It's by far the best value in a Dahua PTZ. @Korgoth will confirm this.

I've installed half a dozen speed domes for myself, neighbors and customers. Here's a few pics of the corner mount installs.

SD

View attachment 27268 View attachment 27266 View attachment 27267 View attachment 27269 View attachment 27270 View attachment 27272 View attachment 27271

whats is the rubber grommet behind the bracket in the first pic?

 

[Solar Deity]

whats is the rubber grommet behind the bracket in the first pic?

Amazon Firewall Boot that gives you a nice watertight solution. It fits perfectly in the hole in the PFA151 Corner Mount. You have to have enough space behind the mount though.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004K2285E/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

SD