Setting up driveway/house cams

D

Duder

n3wb
Dec 31, 2021
8
3
PA, USA
I'm a camera newb and I currently have a Reolink recording with BlueIris aimed at my driveway since I live a bit off the beaten path. The performance is lackluster. I've been lurking on the forum trying to find a replacement and there are so many options. I am looking for an IP POE camera that has good low light performance and records audio via the network, not a separate cable (if that's a thing). My driveway is about 150ft long although I've only been recording if someone actually enters the driveway, not when every car passes by. I'm willing to spend more money to get better performance although I'm not sure what that range really looks like.
I like the BlueIris setup although long term I may decide to get a device that will just continuously record. I've run the ethernet for 4 more cameras so far but wanted to experiment with 1 or 2 to make sure I'm getting the performance I want before buying the wrong parts.
I have found the IPC-T5442T-ZE mentioned repeatedly as a benchmark so that's where I am currently. Any other models or considerations?

Thanks!
 
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Sorry you found this forum after going down the Reolink mistake LOL...

BlueIris can be setup to continuously record and based on the experiences of many here, if you go to an NVR, you will be back to BI!

The important thing is to get the right camera for the distance you are covering.

Do you want to IDENTIFY at 150 feet out? If so, the 5442-ZE is the wrong choice. It is a great camera, but the wrong camera for that distance. If you want to IDENTIFY, you will need a 2MP camera like the 5241-Z12E or a powerful PTZ like the 49225.

Take a look at this thread that identifies the most commonly suggested cameras here. These recommendations are based on distance to IDENTIFY and represent the best value in terms of cost, performance day and night, and proper MP/sensor ratios.

The Importance of Focal Length over MP in camera selection

At the urging of several folks here, I created a thread to show the importance of focal length and how focal length can be more important than megapixels (MP). I mentioned some of this in the post regarding The Hookup’s latest video demonstrating different cameras, including one sold from a...
ipcamtalk.com ipcamtalk.com
 
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It was a cheap starting point to be able to learn and experiment from so I don't see it as a loss.
Is the tradeoff of being able to identify at that distance that the camera would be zoomed in on that specific person/object and I would lose the wide angle so I could see what was going on? I think I only really want to identify if people get really close to the house so probably closer than 50 or 25 ft. My driveway is quite wide though. See attached image on Reolink during the daytime.
I did forget to mention that I have a decent motion sensing flood light so that should hopefully help in low light also.
 

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I dont think he said he wants to record at 150 feet feet out. He said his driveway is 150ft.
He wants to capture if they come in....so that coud skew the results....of what cams to try.
 
Definitely 1 of the 5442 Bullet Z4's, the camera model # is on the left corner of the photo.
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At 25-50 feet out, the 5442-Z4E at full zoom would be a good choice.

One camera cannot be the be all, sell all. If you want to IDENTIFY at 25-50 feet out, that is one camera. If you want to see what is going on around you, then you need another camera (or more).

The 2.8 or 3.6mm cameras are wide angle, see a lot. But they cannot IDENTIFY past 10 feet at night.

Motion sensor lights can be problematic for cameras. Here is usually what happens when a motion activated light comes on - it just about completely blinds the camera right at the moment of optimal opportunity to get the picture. There are 3 deer in this picture and two of them are lost in the blinded white while the camera's exposure adjusts to the rapid change in available light:

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There are things you can do to try to minimize that bloom and temporary exposure issue, but most here either run with the light on all night or not at all. You would have to experiment and see if it impedes a clean capture.
 
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I can just change the light into "dusk til dawn" mode so it switches on when the light gets low to solve that.
That color night photo on the T5442 is significantly better than what I'm seeing right now.
 
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Here's my other one without as much LED streetlight cheating the dark.
one in IR and one with a motion light tripped. and one with me putzing with a 5231 LPR cam....
These are Bullet cams.
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Will the 5442 auto change between IR mode and color mode? Seems like in the dark the IR mode is significantly better. Definitely either need the constant light or to keep it in IR mode.
 
I don't see any advantage to the bullet format, just the opposite. Most people on here go 5442 in turret if going that route, usually the ze.

The problem with bullets is they attract spiders, are more prone to wind and can be easily re-orientated by thieves. Personally, I'd always go turret unless there was a compelling reason to go another route.
 
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I havent seen any spiders on my 3 bullets..(yet)
I did however have to switch to turrets....Amcrest 2mp Analog devices for existing infrastructure
in the condo garage because I had a an assclown reorientating bullets when I started this job.
It did discourage reorientation, Didn't stop him from trying...
But I'm glad I was able to mount to them to Cement block or studs.

I have a Box elder population that likes the south facing 5442 turrets out on the remote garage.
They climb across the lens. Seasonal problem goes away in summer and winter.
However the South facing turret located in the shade is not of any interest to them.
 
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Duder said:
Will the 5442 auto change between IR mode and color mode? Seems like in the dark the IR mode is significantly better. Definitely either need the constant light or to keep it in IR mode.
Click to expand...


IR mode is better in zero or near zero light. Add a little light and full colour at night can produce a good picture with the right camera (4kx). Statistically it's been shown that recognition is much higher with a full colour picture. That said, you need enough light otherwise the picture will be useless and IR better. 4kx doesn't have ir as it's made for nightime colour. The question of which one for night will come down to your locale, the amount of nearby lighting or your ability / willingness to fit lighting to assist with the picture. If the light is non existent, very very poor and there are reasons why you can add lighting that being the case, IR ie the 5442 is the better choice. If you have or can make sufficient light - sensor lights can work but may blind the camera for a second on switching, (luckily 4kx pretty good in this regard), permanently on lights are less of an issue but cost a lot more to leave on, then 4kx better choice. It's horses for courses. There currently isn't a perfect solution. It's jump one way and accept a compromise somewhere.
 
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