flynreelow
Known around here
- Dec 12, 2016
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Suggested vent for closet - if your closet gets too hot
- Thread starter mat200
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looney2ns
IPCT Contributor
The NVR fans can be replaced to lower the noise level drastically.
Most choose this brand. Noctua.
Then I'd vent away to the outdoors.
looney2ns
IPCT Contributor
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Mark_M
Known around here
Already done changing the fan.
From a Bosch VIP X1600, I got a fan out of it and replaced the power supplies fan.
It is a 12v fan, bloody noisy so using a small voltage regulator board I set it to 9v, it moves plenty of air still. Bearings are far better compared to the original fan.
[I got given a whole bunch of analogue Bosch cameras and network encoders. Best part is a PTZ joystick, although I wish it could be a network one!!! It still works with the analogue PTZ.]
Sadly it's never fully quiet (any fan never is). But It's tolerable. What's more annoying is when the UPS kicks in and the coil whine.
sebastiantombs
Known around here
An inline duct fan probably wouldn't make any additional noise that you'd notice.
looney2ns
IPCT Contributor
If the walls of the closet are a hard smooth material such as sheet rock, Line the inside of the closet with a noise dampening covering. Doesn't take much to make a huge difference.
The Noctua fans would most likely still be quieter.
The Noctua fans would most likely still be quieter.
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In the ideal world all of the hardware that generates heat and noise would be installed in the basement. Far away from the occupied living space / sleeping areas. Given basements are not present in all locations for what ever reasons whether high water table to living in an apartment etc.
It starts with researching the hardware in question to determine it’s energy consumption, efficiency, and noise. As others noted almost any fan can be replaced with a quieter one but it should be noted the vast majority of quiet fans simply spin slower and move less air (CFM).
So it’s important to understand and know what the maximum running temps any given hardware will tolerate. Heat by and large is the number one killer of electronics besides dirty power.
So if a quiet environment is preferred than buying anything that is passively cooled should be considered first.
No fans no noise . . .
If something has a fan you could consider a quieter fan but understand the impact of less cooling vs silence. To help offset the potential of increased heat consider using these thermal pads to bridge the outer case to heat generating parts like this;
Anyone who has built a nice PC knows this go to thermal paste:
To using any of the thousands of larger (surface area) heat sinks like these:
Those who get into the extreme of silence go the route of water cooling like this super cheap unit:
I won’t lie I’m not one of those who believe water and electricity is a good mix in a thousand dollar X system no matter if it’s a NVR, PC, switch.
As others noted the room or compartment should be designed and built to address all of these environmental variables of sound, heat, electricity. In my home it started with centralizing everything in the basement far away from the occupied spaces I listed up above.
Next the walls were insulated with Roxul fireproof batts and covered with two layers (staggered) of 5/8” X rated drywall.
All of the hardware was secured to the server rack and extra plates & radiant fins were installed to help absorb and help transfer internal heat through the casing.
Almost every device has some kind of fan and the vast majority never come on or spin up very infrequently due to never getting hot enough to trigger their thermal fan settings. Hot air rises so also have several large fans that are PWM based on temperature and time to keep air movement when required.
I have some specialty hardware that I really wanted to test using old technology that just works while offering secondary uses like this cooler:
One thing to consider is if something that just generates lots of heat why not harness the same to make electricity and power something else?
I use the above to power a few fans to provide self cooling. The same is used to recharge my cell / tablets for something already present and running!
So the moral of the story is purchase hardware that by default is going to run silent and cool. This is coupled by planning and designing the room to achieve the same where hardware just makes noise.
This doesn’t mean you can’t harness that generated heat and do something with it.
It starts with researching the hardware in question to determine it’s energy consumption, efficiency, and noise. As others noted almost any fan can be replaced with a quieter one but it should be noted the vast majority of quiet fans simply spin slower and move less air (CFM).
So it’s important to understand and know what the maximum running temps any given hardware will tolerate. Heat by and large is the number one killer of electronics besides dirty power.
So if a quiet environment is preferred than buying anything that is passively cooled should be considered first.
No fans no noise . . .
If something has a fan you could consider a quieter fan but understand the impact of less cooling vs silence. To help offset the potential of increased heat consider using these thermal pads to bridge the outer case to heat generating parts like this;
Anyone who has built a nice PC knows this go to thermal paste:
To using any of the thousands of larger (surface area) heat sinks like these:
Those who get into the extreme of silence go the route of water cooling like this super cheap unit:
I won’t lie I’m not one of those who believe water and electricity is a good mix in a thousand dollar X system no matter if it’s a NVR, PC, switch.
As others noted the room or compartment should be designed and built to address all of these environmental variables of sound, heat, electricity. In my home it started with centralizing everything in the basement far away from the occupied spaces I listed up above.
Next the walls were insulated with Roxul fireproof batts and covered with two layers (staggered) of 5/8” X rated drywall.
All of the hardware was secured to the server rack and extra plates & radiant fins were installed to help absorb and help transfer internal heat through the casing.
Almost every device has some kind of fan and the vast majority never come on or spin up very infrequently due to never getting hot enough to trigger their thermal fan settings. Hot air rises so also have several large fans that are PWM based on temperature and time to keep air movement when required.
I have some specialty hardware that I really wanted to test using old technology that just works while offering secondary uses like this cooler:
Amazon.com: Peltier Cooler Semiconductor Refrigeration Cooling System DIY Kit 12V 6A Thermoelectric Peltier for Mini Air Conditioner : Electronics
Buy Peltier Cooler Semiconductor Refrigeration Cooling System DIY Kit 12V 6A Thermoelectric Peltier for Mini Air Conditioner: Heatsinks - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases
amzn.to
One thing to consider is if something that just generates lots of heat why not harness the same to make electricity and power something else?
I use the above to power a few fans to provide self cooling. The same is used to recharge my cell / tablets for something already present and running!
So the moral of the story is purchase hardware that by default is going to run silent and cool. This is coupled by planning and designing the room to achieve the same where hardware just makes noise.
This doesn’t mean you can’t harness that generated heat and do something with it.
As an Amazon Associate IPCamTalk earns from qualifying purchases.
sebastiantombs
Known around here
Another way around using a fan might be to use a chimney style vent. A ten or fifteen foot height difference should provide a reasonable amount of draft with no noise involved.
Old post but...This looks perfect to put on the outside wall of my network gear closet. Anyone have experience with it? I assume I can run the wire back into the closet for power rather than sticking out the front?
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flynreelow
Known around here
- Dec 12, 2016
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- Jan 17, 2017
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I ended up ordering the 4x12 because (as of today) it has a 20% coupon and makes it cheaper than the 4x10 ($47.99).
One super bonus is it has a bluetooth app to program and monitor the temps!
I checked with their customer service chat (which responded so quickly I thought it was a bot at first) and they confirmed the BT capabilities. They also said the cord runs out the side but I don't see an issue bending it back into the hole.
On other thought - I read another post online where people agreed the right thing to do was to put a register into the ceiling and have it run into the return line of the AC duct.
It sounds like that is the right thing to do but it would be such a PITA for me to do that as the closet ceiling as at the edge of the roof line and there is limited space.
Perhaps I'll look into that when I remodel my office (which I can do now that the equipment is in the closet!) but I think this vent booster will work well. The issue is the equipment is on high shelves in the closet and trapping the heat.
With this vent I figure it will draw cooler air from the bottom door gap and vent it out the top. Once installed, I get some before and after temps and post.
It sounds like that is the right thing to do but it would be such a PITA for me to do that as the closet ceiling as at the edge of the roof line and there is limited space.
Perhaps I'll look into that when I remodel my office (which I can do now that the equipment is in the closet!) but I think this vent booster will work well. The issue is the equipment is on high shelves in the closet and trapping the heat.
With this vent I figure it will draw cooler air from the bottom door gap and vent it out the top. Once installed, I get some before and after temps and post.
Last edited:
- Jan 17, 2017
- 15,387
- 25,936
indeed that would be a pita to do better venting into the AC system .. thus why I did just a vent from the closet into the hallway ..
I just put all my kit (IT gear, AMP, speakers, etc.) on a wire rack behind a curtain in my poor mans home theater.
The acoustically transparent projection screen automagically rolls down from under the header.
The acoustically transparent projection screen automagically rolls down from under the header.
With the AC going I can see how the return would pull air, but wondering how it would work with the AC off? I haven't had the AC on and the closet is hot so wonder if that would even help unless I put a fan to exhaust it into the new return line?
In any case, I think this vent fan I got which would vent into my office should work out - fingers crossed.
- Jan 17, 2017
- 15,387
- 25,936
yes, this is why I ended up just venting the closet space out into the hallway .. worked well enough for me, but then again I had limited equipment in the closet and not a Nvidia AI cluster
Yea with my $27M AI cluster in my 3' x 6' closet I may need some more cooling...we'll see
I re-read that post I linked and you do have to have a fan sucking out the air when the AC is off. So it's basically accomplishing the same thing except instead of dumping it into the room it goes into the HVAC system. I'm pretty sure that the vent fan in question will take care of things!
This weekend I installed the AirTap 4 (4" x 12") vent on top of my closet as well as a ReliaBilt 4"x12" Floor Register on the inside part.
The drop in temp was nothing short of amazing! Because my equipment (which lacks any IP cams or PC for now) was at the top it was creating an oven. Now temps are in the 70s.
The quality and support of the AirTap has been great. Only down side is over fan speed 3 and you start to hear it. As this is in my office its not a big deal.
Below are some pics (still need to clean up the inside wire). Unfortunately my human non-touch thermometer cannot read the lower temp - once I get a battery for my other infrared thermometer I'll take some more measurements.
Original Temp
AirTap 4 Installed
Register inside closet
Drop in temp once the fan/register was installed - this is via the BT app of the AirTap
The drop in temp was nothing short of amazing! Because my equipment (which lacks any IP cams or PC for now) was at the top it was creating an oven. Now temps are in the 70s.
The quality and support of the AirTap has been great. Only down side is over fan speed 3 and you start to hear it. As this is in my office its not a big deal.
Below are some pics (still need to clean up the inside wire). Unfortunately my human non-touch thermometer cannot read the lower temp - once I get a battery for my other infrared thermometer I'll take some more measurements.
Original Temp
AirTap 4 Installed
Register inside closet
Drop in temp once the fan/register was installed - this is via the BT app of the AirTap
As an Amazon Associate IPCamTalk earns from qualifying purchases.