Sweet! LTS is releasing an ONVIF compatible doorbell with SD card slot and 940nm IR

I'll try to condense the whole saga down a bit. TL/DR is I'm looking for digital chime suggestions.

Ring Pro started going offline after working rock solid for 1.5 years). Replaced 16V 10VA transformer with 16V 30VA, but after a week or so started having the same issue. Eventually, the Ring Pro wouldn't power on at all. Called Ring tech support and they replaced it (it's out of warranty but since I paid for the cloud plan I guess they cover it--nice). Hooked the replacement up at the front door, and it wouldn't power up either.

I measured voltage at the front door--only 9V. So I figured the new Edwards transformer I bought crapped out (a few reviews on Amazon state as much). So I bought another one and hooked it up today. Same issue (yet I measured 18V from the terminals on the transformer). So then I started looking at my Honeywell digital chime. It's designed such that you run both transformer wires to it, and then it creates its own circuit for the pushbutton. Well I'm measuring 18V at the chime from transformer, but only 9V to the pushbutton (measured from the terminals on the chime, so it's not a wiring problem). So in the end, it looks like maybe my chime is the problem?

So my actual question is, does anyone here have a digital chime that they've tested to work well with the Hikvision? I'm going to sell the Ring Pro and switch to the RCA anyway, but I don't want to do that until I've got a known good power situation. As I recall this chime was pretty cheap ($20-30) and it worked fine for a couple of years, but if I need to replace it I want to make sure I buy one that's known to work with this cam. Anyone got any suggestions? Or has anyone seen a published compatibility list from Hik or Clare, etc? Thanks.
 
I'll try to condense the whole saga down a bit. TL/DR is I'm looking for digital chime suggestions.

Ring Pro started going offline after working rock solid for 1.5 years). Replaced 16V 10VA transformer with 16V 30VA, but after a week or so started having the same issue. Eventually, the Ring Pro wouldn't power on at all. Called Ring tech support and they replaced it (it's out of warranty but since I paid for the cloud plan I guess they cover it--nice). Hooked the replacement up at the front door, and it wouldn't power up either.

I measured voltage at the front door--only 9V. So I figured the new Edwards transformer I bought crapped out (a few reviews on Amazon state as much). So I bought another one and hooked it up today. Same issue (yet I measured 18V from the terminals on the transformer). So then I started looking at my Honeywell digital chime. It's designed such that you run both transformer wires to it, and then it creates its own circuit for the pushbutton. Well I'm measuring 18V at the chime from transformer, but only 9V to the pushbutton (measured from the terminals on the chime, so it's not a wiring problem). So in the end, it looks like maybe my chime is the problem?

So my actual question is, does anyone here have a digital chime that they've tested to work well with the Hikvision? I'm going to sell the Ring Pro and switch to the RCA anyway, but I don't want to do that until I've got a known good power situation. As I recall this chime was pretty cheap ($20-30) and it worked fine for a couple of years, but if I need to replace it I want to make sure I buy one that's known to work with this cam. Anyone got any suggestions? Or has anyone seen a published compatibility list from Hik or Clare, etc? Thanks.
The Hik and all the variants are not compatible with digital chimes. It has to be analog/mechanical. Not sure why but digital chime definitely didn’t work. I bought a $15 ding dong door bell. Wasn’t exactly what I wanted but not the end of the world.
 
The Hik and all the variants are not compatible with digital chimes. It has to be analog/mechanical. Not sure why but digital chime definitely didn’t work. I bought a $15 ding dong door bell. Wasn’t exactly what I wanted but not the end of the world.

Thanks, yeah I see that language now on some of the spec pages for these.

However, my curious mind wants to know why the Ring Pro, Nest, Skybell, etc are compatible while the Hik isn't. I know for a fact that the Ring Pro has an internal capacitor in lieu of a battery. That would allow for continuous power to the cam even when the button is pressed. I wonder if the Hik clones lack a capacitor?

In addition, there are different kinds of digital chimes. Some are wired just like traditional mechanical chimes, with the pushbutton/camera unit wired in series with the transformer and chime. But others, like my Honeywell, have the pushbutton on a separate circuit from the transformer and chime. I'm wondering if the Hik would work with that type of digital chime.

Anyone have any ideas? I'm pretty ignorant about doorbells so maybe there is some other factor with digital chimes that I'm not considering.
 
Thanks, yeah I see that language now on some of the spec pages for these.

However, my curious mind wants to know why the Ring Pro, Nest, Skybell, etc are compatible while the Hik isn't. I know for a fact that the Ring Pro has an internal capacitor in lieu of a battery. That would allow for continuous power to the cam even when the button is pressed. I wonder if the Hik clones lack a capacitor?

In addition, there are different kinds of digital chimes. Some are wired just like traditional mechanical chimes, with the pushbutton/camera unit wired in series with the transformer and chime. But others, like my Honeywell, have the pushbutton on a separate circuit from the transformer and chime. I'm wondering if the Hik would work with that type of digital chime.

Anyone have any ideas? I'm pretty ignorant about doorbells so maybe there is some other factor with digital chimes that I'm not considering.

The hikvision and clone has a cap also.
 
Haven't followed this thread in a while and searching the term "IR" is too short. Any word on the ability to disable the IR or disable the automated messages when I don't answer? Thanks
 
Haven't followed this thread in a while and searching the term "IR" is too short. Any word on the ability to disable the IR or disable the automated messages when I don't answer? Thanks

Only known way to disable IR is to physically unplug the connectors. Look back the past 4-5 pages and you should find the discussion/photos about it--it wasn't that long ago.

Ditto on the "subscriber not available" thing. Apparently firmware 180726 fixes it (although some people says it didn't). Someone posted the firmware file here a month or so ago.
 
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The hikvision and clone has a cap also.

Interesting, thanks. I also found references on Clare's site that they removed all mentions of digital chime compatibility simply because there are so many different kinds of digital chimes. Their user guide mentions requiring installing the included resistor when using with a digital chime, but that's only for the ones with three terminals (Trans, Front, Rear). Probably not needed with the type like my Honeywell.

I've decided to repurchase the same exact chime I already had, since it was working fine with the Ring Pro. Assuming that gets the Ring Pro working once again I will test it with the RCA too and report back.
 
Only known way to disable IR is to physically unplug the connectors. Look back the past 4-5 pages and you should find the discussion/photos about it--it wasn't that long ago.

Ditto on the "subscriber not available" thing. Apparently firmware 180726 fixes it (although some people says it didn't). Someone posted the firmware file here a month or so ago.

Thanks! Found it on pages 36-37. Seems easy enough. Disconnect jumpers jp14 and jp15.
 
Well, as it turns out the low voltage going to the push button is normal for the Honeywell chime I have (I guess it's enough for normal lighted pushes--that's what it's meant for). Turns out what has been making it work this whole time was the Ring Pro's "Pro Power Kit". Apparently that brings the voltage up to the correct level (I never really knew what it did). Anyway, mine died, so it was no longer boosting the voltage. Replacing it not only made the Ring Pro functional, but it also appears to be powering my RCA-branded Hik doorbell, at least on my workbench. Pressing the button on the RCA rings my digital chime (without causing any reboots or other craziness) so looks like it will work fine.

Playing around with it, it's quite different than the ring. Pressing the doorbell button makes my phone beep and vibrate continuously--even when the app is closed. Honestly, that's sort of annoying. Ring has a much shorter notification sequence. With the Hik it really makes me want to go to the app and reject the "call", but then the doorbell plays the "subscriber is busy" recording.

So I'm not sure why some people aren't getting that message and some people are. Or is it that the doorbell used to play "subscriber is not available" if you ignored the notification? I can confirm that the doorbell doesn't say anything if I ignore the notification. But like I said earlier, the notification is so long and annoying I can picture myself wanting to reject most calls if they come in while I've got my phone on me.

One other thing--is it not possible to add additional users? I'm used to setting up a "view only" user for Blue Iris but from the webui (even with the activex plugin) all I can seem to do is change the password for the admin user (can't even change the name). It's not a huge deal, just wondering if there's something I'm missing.
 
Hello All
How do I log into this cam via going to the IP address of it? Whats the default ID and PW for the cam?
Also, tried to use SADP, but no luck because not sure of what the default password on there is either.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 
What exact Hikvision camera model number did you select for this "DB1" doorbell camera?

Also, I have two of these doorbell cameras, actually with sequential serial numbers, and I can only get 1 of them to register as ONVIF in Synology. The other I've had to just use the RTSP URL rtsp://admin:pass@1.2.3.4:554/h264/ch01/main/av_stream - which means I'm doing server side motion detection rather than camera-side, which would lower the CPU usage if I could get camera-side. I can't figure out anything at all different between the two of them (literally one manufactured right after the other!).

I'll also mention that one of the two of them has significantly worse IR "glare" in the plastic lens housing than does the other one.
Did you get this to work on Syno SS?
 
Hello All
How do I log into this cam via going to the IP address of it? Whats the default ID and PW for the cam?
Also, tried to use SADP, but no luck because not sure of what the default password on there is either.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

SADP should pick it up. Is your doorbell cam working?

My default login was admin and 12345, but I also read another pwd could be admin12345. What does it say in your manual?
 
Is anyone else having issues with severe condensation in their doorbell camera? I have an RMA but I’m Curious if this problem is systemic.
 
I did when there was a drastic change in temp. Ive since tried screwing it tighter... Haven't notice it happening again, but temps have been fairly stable.
 
SADP should pick it up. Is your doorbell cam working?

My default login was admin and 12345, but I also read another pwd could be admin12345. What does it say in your manual?
Yes, it is getting picked up in SADP, but when I try to modify the IP address and port, it asks me for a password within SADP, but I do not know what it can me. I tried "password", "12345", "admin12345" and nothing worked.
I then tried to navigate to the IP address at port 80 (public), it brings me to a login screen, same as all the other hikvision cams I have, but not sure what the username/password combo is on there either. I tried the same passwords as above, with admin as the username, but nothing appears to work.
 
and if you didn't create a password during setup (or if, like me, it did prompt you to do that but then wouldn't take it), look on the front of the doorbell (under the colored shell) for a sticker. On the sticker in tiny print should be a security key (I think 5 or 6 characters, say it's ABCDEF). So then the password you should use is adminABCDEF. I found that info in this thread several pages back. Once you're signed in to the web interface you can change the admin password to something else you prefer.
 
Oddy enough, there are multiple ways to setup this cam. Some ways don't prompt for the pwd. The way that worked for me is following the in app directions. The paper manual instruction was a fail.
 
Wonder there's room for one of those moisture absorbent silica packets and if it would work against the condensation.
 
Wonder there's room for one of those moisture absorbent silica packets and if it would work against the condensation.

for a very tiny one maybe half inch by half inch or so, there's a tiny bit of room where the capacitor is at