Terrible picture of thief SD59225U-HNI

That's the problem with most cameras in "auto" mode. They refuse to speed up the exposure time to enable crisp shots unless it is in bright sunlight. Only then do they work properly. Fast bird, vehicle, or even a person running up close on a cloudy day? Don't expect auto to get the job done. Manual exposure time set to, say, 1/1000s will get the detail you need. Even 1/500s is WAY better than most cams set to auto will do on a cloudy day when they have much more than enough light to operate at 1/1000s or faster.

And don't get me started about night exposure speed. I think they all default to 1/30s max if it's night regardless of available light. Check the blurriness of moving vehicles in the frame when dusk is coming but it's still bright out.
 
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I suspect a camera at ground level is going to be a bug magnet but it should be better for face ID than what you have now.

Powerline networking is an alternative to wireless. Similarly, you can always buy a wired camera and attach it to a wifi client device in a weatherproof box. http://a.co/dd0jQpK http://a.co/fUUxhqt

Why shouldn't I just use a wireless camera instead of doing all that? I know this forum hates wireless cameras but with a wifi client device and repeaters, how this setup going to be better?
 
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That's the problem with most cameras in "auto" mode. They refuse to speed up the exposure time to enable crisp shots unless it is in bright sunlight. Only then do they work properly. Fast bird, vehicle, or even a person running up close on a cloudy day? Don't expect auto to get the job done. Manual exposure time set to, say, 1/1000s will get the detail you need. Even 1/500s is WAY better than most cams set to auto will do on a cloudy day when they have much more than enough light to operate at 1/1000s or faster.

And don't get me started about night exposure speed. I think they all default to 1/30s max if it's night regardless of available light. Check the blurriness of moving vehicles in the frame when dusk is coming but it's still bright out.

I'm pretty sure that was my view before, but I got shot down for it in the other thread with reference to number plates and removing the motion blur. :(
 
It might depend on how you phrased it. I don't remember it specifically at the moment. Auto sucks for freezing fast motion in all but bright daylight. Considering how many people use auto and how poorly implemented day/night profiles are when trying to use fixed custom exposure rates, camera manufacturers should be ashamed of the poor fast motion captures of their products when they're capable of so much better with just a little tweaking of their firmware.
 
I didn't mention auto. I mentioned how a faster exposure freezes motion but may cause fast moving objects to appear to be stutter / jump.
 
First point yes, second one? Meh, I think something else is probably in operation there for the most part, but some motion blur DOES tend to take the harshness out of video. That's why cinematographers prefer shooting slow panning motion shots of 30fps at 1/30th or 1/60th exposure. A bit of motion blur smooths out the pixel jumping when the exposure is the same as or double the framerate. You'll find drone operators put filters on their cameras to achieve the same effect, basically putting sunshades on the camera to slow down the exposure. It's lousy for still shots though- too easy to have blurring on a freeze frame. For CCTV, you WANT to have harsh clear frames for printing out paused screenshots. You aren't shooting cinematic video.
 
I know. Mine was a drone-based example because I have a drone and the numbers mate with IP cams. I'm not a professional filmmaker. Work with me here will ya?
 
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30fps comes from television and 24fps from film. And as the old expression goes:

"Film is Art. And Television is Furniture."

Although Millennials reading this won't get the furniture reference.