The Perfect Camera - Does it exist

Cajun Bob

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Hey Guys, Newbie Bob here...

While I'm new to this industry, I've been in motion picture production for over 40 years and know a little about camera and lens technology. Plus, in working with video forensics, I often see the problems with many cameras, formats, storage, and misleading specs. So, for my personal projects, I'm hoping y'all can point me to the best possible camera(s) for the job.

I need to know if there are any cameras out there that fit my wishlist below.

4k (or 8K depending on value)
H265 native recording
SD card onboard
60 - 120 fps capture
Always recording
Camera Zoning -
Smart Compatibility? (not sure what this is)
Night vision – Preferably Color
Microphone built-in
POE
Progressive Scan capture
Smart Motion Detection
NVR – What format does it record? H.265?
NVR – Should it be oversized to allow for additional cameras if needed.
Remote viewing
Storage expandability

Also, what is the best Overall size lens?

What is the best camera for capturing license plates?

Any other recommendations would be welcomed.

Thanks
Bob
 

Teken

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Hey Guys, Newbie Bob here...

While I'm new to this industry, I've been in motion picture production for over 40 years and know a little about camera and lens technology. Plus, in working with video forensics, I often see the problems with many cameras, formats, storage, and misleading specs. So, for my personal projects, I'm hoping y'all can point me to the best possible camera(s) for the job.

I need to know if there are any cameras out there that fit my wishlist below.

4k (or 8K depending on value) - No such thing as a 8K camera in the consumer field that isn't a specialty camera. You couldn't afford that camera anyways. If you intend to purchase a 4K camera insure it uses no less than a 1 / 1.2" lens.

H265 native recording - Almost every enterprise class camera offers H.264 / H.265 whether they support H.264+ / H.265+ is a mixed bag and called something different from various companies.

SD card onboard - Almost every serious enterprise camera incorporates a Micro SD card. Comes down to how large of capacity they will support from 128 ~ 256 GB. Some cameras support dual cards while others support up 512 GB. The dual cards are mostly seen in mutli headed cameras and the larger storage is seen in specialty cameras.

60 - 120 fps capture - Almost every camera on the market offers 30 fps. Cameras that support 60 - 120 fps are specialty cameras like LPR.

Always recording - The option to record continuously, on motion, schedule, I/O is up to you. When you have a camera that incorporates edge recording you can set the camera to only record based on motion and let the NVR record continuously to capture anything else. In Enterprise both camera and NVR are set to record 24.7.365 as this offers redundancy, fail over, and meets specific security certification.

Camera Zoning - Not sure what you mean by zoning vs having the ability to define a region of interest. Almost all cameras allow you to define a area to be monitored, ignored, blocked out, etc.

Smart Compatibility? (not sure what this is) - Smart vs AI is just a fancy way to say it has filtering logic that is predefined to identify vehicle, human, other. Other so called smart capabilities are people counting, tracking, race identification, ID of make of vehicle, color, illegal lane change, direction of travel, loitering, smoking, etc

Night vision – Preferably Color - Every camera offers IR night vision. Newer cameras use much larger lens to allow them to see better at night. The vast majority of so called night color cameras use LED to provide variable lighting to allow consistent image capture. No such thing as color night vision as light is required to see!

Microphone built-in - Almost every camera has a internal microphone or an input to insert one.

POE - Every modern digital camera offers 12 VDC, POE, POE+. Analog cameras however continue to sell and in the vast majority are powered via 12 VDC / eCOAX.

Progressive Scan capture - Every modern camera today uses PS.

Smart Motion Detection - As noted up above the more expensive cameras that incorporate so called AI offer these features and more. More specialty cameras like LPR will indicate vehicle type, model, color, and the license plate. Some of the none LPR cameras will provide all of the above and other AI / Smart Capability and filter out vehicle, human, animals, people counting, crowd, facial expression, etc/

NVR – What format does it record? H.265? - Depends upon the NVR you buy as many support all four encoding formats vs cheaper ones only provide H.264 / H.265.

NVR – Should it be oversized to allow for additional cameras if needed. - Don't know what you mean by over sized. If you purchase a NVR that incorporates POE its up to you to purchase the correct one with enough ports. If you want to support more than 24 cameras you're going to be spending a lot of money for a enterprise NVR. If you go the DIY route and build your own computer system it simply costs money, time, and resources to get it up and running.

Once you go past 24 cameras the computer system to support 1080P is extremely power hungry and expansive. If you believe you will be rocking 24 4K camera's recording 24.7.365 you better have deep pockets. If you try to support 64 cameras at 4K you better get ready to bend over and grab your ankles! :rofl:

Almost no one on this forum records at full frame rate whether it be 30 fps and that's with a small below 20 camera network! Never mind 60-120 fps with 20 cameras in a consumers home. Those who run full frame rate and 64 camera systems have extremely high bandwidth enterprise network hardware in place. These networks are run completely isolated and independent of anything else because it would crash the entire network if it wasn't.

You don't need ask me how I know . . . :headbang:


Remote viewing - You can use port forwarding, makers app, or VPN.

Storage expandability - This comes down to what direction you wish to go. Purchased all in one NVR or DIY system that is designed to grow and add more storage.

Also, what is the best Overall size lens? - No such thing as it comes down to the environment and what you're trying to capture. Generally speaking the so called best lens size which spans from 1/ 2.7", 1/1.8". 1/1.2" comes down to what MP is used by the maker.

4K (8MP) cameras come in all of the above lens size and you should know based on the above the best now would be 1/ 1.2". So called 2K (4MP) cameras span 1/ 2.8", 1/2.7', 1/1.8" and rumors indicate new hardware coming with 1/1/2"! If you ever see a 1080P (2MP) camera ever offer a 1/1.2" lens for under $99.00 buy them all! :lmao:


What is the best camera for capturing license plates? - LPR

Any other recommendations would be welcomed.

Thanks
Bob
 

mat200

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Hey Guys, Newbie Bob here...

While I'm new to this industry, I've been in motion picture production for over 40 years and know a little about camera and lens technology. Plus, in working with video forensics, I often see the problems with many cameras, formats, storage, and misleading specs. So, for my personal projects, I'm hoping y'all can point me to the best possible camera(s) for the job.

I need to know if there are any cameras out there that fit my wishlist below.

4k (or 8K depending on value)
H265 native recording
SD card onboard
60 - 120 fps capture
Always recording
Camera Zoning -
Smart Compatibility? (not sure what this is)
Night vision – Preferably Color
Microphone built-in
POE
Progressive Scan capture
Smart Motion Detection
NVR – What format does it record? H.265?
NVR – Should it be oversized to allow for additional cameras if needed.
Remote viewing
Storage expandability

Also, what is the best Overall size lens?

What is the best camera for capturing license plates?

Any other recommendations would be welcomed.

Thanks
Bob
Hi Bob, welcome to the forum ..

4k (or 8K depending on value)
H265 native recording
SD card onboard
60 - 120 fps capture
Always recording
Night vision – Preferably Color

Be prepared to pay some significant bucks for those requirements.


1627866302364.png

Perhaps the IPC-HF71242F .. oh, wait it only does 30fps ..


1627866451231.png

Ok.. perhaps the 8MP IPC-HF7842F .. no, it only does 30fps ...


hmmm .. don't think there's a complete fit for your specs. You may need to down grade your specs a bit ..
 

Cajun Bob

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Teken,
I can't thank you enough for this World of information. Great stuff.
Are there any suppliers you could recommend?
I'd appreciate any guidance.
Thank you,
Bob
 

Cajun Bob

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Mat,

Thank you for the recommendat
Hi Bob, welcome to the forum ..

4k (or 8K depending on value)
H265 native recording
SD card onboard
60 - 120 fps capture
Always recording
Night vision – Preferably Color

Be prepared to pay some significant bucks for those requirements.


View attachment 96997

Perhaps the IPC-HF71242F .. oh, wait it only does 30fps ..


View attachment 96998

Ok.. perhaps the 8MP IPC-HF7842F .. no, it only does 30fps ...


hmmm .. don't think there's a complete fit for your specs. You may need to down grade your specs a bit ..
[/QUOTE

Mat,
I appreciate your recommendations and Yes, it seems I might need to downgrade my specs a bit.

If you were going to buy the best quality for the value system for your personal home and or business, what would buy?

Thanks
Bob
 

Cajun Bob

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Welcome.
Keep in mind that surveillance camera are not in any shape or form in the same league as production equipment.
Read the many reviews here on this forum
Study these:
LPR | IP Cam Talk
Wiki
Cliff Notes

Looney,

THIS IS Incredible information.

So much I don't know.

I'll review all and please allow me to nudge you for information as I go.

Thank you sooo much.

Bob
 

wittaj

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As you are finding out, that camera doesn't exist, at least at a price we can afford.

These types of cameras are not GoPro or Hollywood type cameras that offer slow-mo capabilities and other features. They "offer" 30FPS and 60FPS to appease the general public that thinks that is what they need, but you will not find many of us here running more than 15 FPS; and movies are shot at 24 FPS, so anything above that is a waste of storage space for what these cameras are used for. If 24 FPS works for the big screen, I think 15 FPS is more than enough for phones and tablets LOL.

If your unique case requires that type of FPS, you will find surveillance cameras are not going to meet your needs and you need to get a camera capable of that- or spend some serious money.

We have had recently people come here after purchasing cameras in two instances - one was a tennis club and another was a youth soccer club. In both cases they found that these types of cameras were not capable of what they were wanting to do. Sure the cameras could run faster FPS, but it still didn't provide them with the level of detail they were looking for. I recall the soccer club had a decent quality PTZ that is fine for a residential or retail/commercial installation, but to cover the action of the soccer field it wasn't capable of meeting their needs. And because of the extremely fast motion, it was creating a halo type effect around the action (which can be seen in certain lighting conditions).

These cameras are good, but not good enough to catch the rotation of a ball for example.

You have to first decide what is the purpose of the cameras - to IDENTIFY or to OBSERVE and at what distance. One camera cannot be the do all, see all.

It is simple LOL do not chase MP - do not buy a 4MP camera that is anything smaller than a 1/1.8" sensor. Do not buy a 2MP camera that is anything smaller than a 1/2.8" sensor. Do not buy a 4K (8MP) camera on anything smaller than a 1/1.2" sensor. Unfortunately, most 4k cams are on the same sensor as a 2MP and thus the 2MP will kick its butt all night long as the 4k will need 4 times the light than the 2MP... 4k will do very poor at night unless you have stadium quality lighting (well a lot of lighting LOL).

To identify someone with the 2.8mm lens that is popular, someone would have to be within 13 feet of the camera, but realistically within 10 feet after you dial it in to your settings.

1604638118196.png



My neighbor was bragging to me how he only needed his four 2.8mm fixed lens cams to see his entire property and the street and his whole backyard. His car was sitting in the driveway practically touching the garage door and his video quality was useless to ID the perp not even 10 feet away.

Here are my general distance recommendations, but switch out the Dahua 5442 series camera to the equivalent 2MP on the 1/2.8" sensor or equivalent Hikvision works as well.
  • 5442 fixed lens 2.8mm - anything within 10 feet of camera OR as an overview camera
  • 5442 ZE - varifocal - distances up to 40-50 feet (personally I wouldn't go past the 30 foot range but I like things closer)
  • 5442 Z4E - anything up to 80-100 feet (personally I wouldn't go past 60 feet but I like things closer)
  • 5241-Z12E - anything from 80 feet to almost 200 feet (personally I wouldn't go past 150 feet because I like things closer)
  • 5241-Z12E - for a license plate cam that you would angle up the street to get plates up to about 175 feet away, or up to 220 with additional IR.
  • 49225 PTZ - great PTZ and in conjunction with an NVR or Blue Iris and the cameras above that you can use as spotter cams to point the PTZ to the correct location to compliment the fixed cams.
You need to get the correct camera for the area trying to be covered. A 2.8mm to IDENTIFY someone 40 feet away is the wrong camera regardless of how good the camera is. A 2.8mm camera to IDENTIFY someone within 10 feet is a good choice OR it is an overview camera to see something happened but not be able to identify who.

Main keys are you can't locate the camera too high (not on the 2nd story or above 7 feet high unless it is for overview and not Identification purposes) or chase MP and you need to get the correct camera for the area trying to be covered. A 2.8mm to IDENTIFY someone 40 feet away is the wrong camera regardless of how good the camera is. A 2.8mm camera to IDENTIFY someone within 10 feet is a good choice OR it is an overview camera to see something happened but not be able to identify who. Also, do not chase marketing phrases like ColorVu and Full Color and the like - all cameras need light - simple physics...

If you want to see things far away, you need optical zoom, digital zoom only works in the movies and TV...And the optical zoom is done real time - for a varifocal it is a set it and forget it. You cannot go to recorded video and optically zoom in later, at that point it is digital zoom, and the sensors on these cameras are so small which is why digital zoom doesn't work very well after the fact.

Regarding a camera for plates (LPR) - keep in mind that this is a camera dedicated to plates and not an overview camera also. It is as much an art as it is a science. You will need two cameras. For LPR we need to zoom in tight to make the plate as large as possible. For most of us, all you see is the not much more than a vehicle in the entire frame. Now maybe in the right location during the day it might be able to see some other things, but not at night.

At night, we have to run a very fast shutter speed (1/2,000) and in B/W with IR and the image will be black. All you will see are head/tail lights and the plate. Some people can get away with color if they have enough street lights, but most of us cannot. Here is a representative sample of plates I get at night of vehicles traveling about 45MPH at 175 feet from my camera:


1607010182386.png
 
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Cajun Bob

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wittaj

WOW... Invaluable information.

I can't thank you enough. Please allow me to nudge you in the future for more information or approval of my choices.

Thank you,
Bob
 

Flintstone61

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Looney and Wittaj have taught me a thing or two....Welcome. I'm still green, but I'm providing a better level of security to the Condo community, and allows me to manage the property better with my outdoor cameras cueing me in on arriving trucks, Vendors, Contractors, etc.
Thanks to the help from many people here, I have this 2 camera setup going out front. Screenshot 2021-07-10 004012.pngScreenshot 2021-07-10 003947.png
 
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Cajun Bob

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As you are finding out, that camera doesn't exist, at least at a price we can afford.

These types of cameras are not GoPro or Hollywood type cameras that offer slow-mo capabilities and other features. They "offer" 30FPS and 60FPS to appease the general public that thinks that is what they need, but you will not find many of us here running more than 15 FPS; and movies are shot at 24 FPS, so anything above that is a waste of storage space for what these cameras are used for. If 24 FPS works for the big screen, I think 15 FPS is more than enough for phones and tablets LOL.

If your unique case requires that type of FPS, you will find surveillance cameras are not going to meet your needs and you need to get a camera capable of that- or spend some serious money.

We have had recently people come here after purchasing cameras in two instances - one was a tennis club and another was a youth soccer club. In both cases they found that these types of cameras were not capable of what they were wanting to do. Sure the cameras could run faster FPS, but it still didn't provide them with the level of detail they were looking for. I recall the soccer club had a decent quality PTZ that is fine for a residential or retail/commercial installation, but to cover the action of the soccer field it wasn't capable of meeting their needs. And because of the extremely fast motion, it was creating a halo type effect around the action (which can be seen in certain lighting conditions).

These cameras are good, but not good enough to catch the rotation of a ball for example.

You have to first decide what is the purpose of the cameras - to IDENTIFY or to OBSERVE and at what distance. One camera cannot be the do all, see all.

It is simple LOL do not chase MP - do not buy a 4MP camera that is anything smaller than a 1/1.8" sensor. Do not buy a 2MP camera that is anything smaller than a 1/2.8" sensor. Do not buy a 4K (8MP) camera on anything smaller than a 1/1.2" sensor. Unfortunately, most 4k cams are on the same sensor as a 2MP and thus the 2MP will kick its butt all night long as the 4k will need 4 times the light than the 2MP... 4k will do very poor at night unless you have stadium quality lighting (well a lot of lighting LOL).

To identify someone with the 2.8mm lens that is popular, someone would have to be within 13 feet of the camera, but realistically within 10 feet after you dial it in to your settings.

1604638118196.png



My neighbor was bragging to me how he only needed his four 2.8mm fixed lens cams to see his entire property and the street and his whole backyard. His car was sitting in the driveway practically touching the garage door and his video quality was useless to ID the perp not even 10 feet away.

Here are my general distance recommendations, but switch out the Dahua 5442 series camera to the equivalent 2MP on the 1/2.8" sensor or equivalent Hikvision works as well.
  • 5442 fixed lens 2.8mm - anything within 10 feet of camera OR as an overview camera
  • 5442 ZE - varifocal - distances up to 40-50 feet (personally I wouldn't go past the 30 foot range but I like things closer)
  • 5442 Z4E - anything up to 80-100 feet (personally I wouldn't go past 60 feet but I like things closer)
  • 5241-Z12E - anything from 80 feet to almost 200 feet (personally I wouldn't go past 150 feet because I like things closer)
  • 5241-Z12E - for a license plate cam that you would angle up the street to get plates up to about 175 feet away, or up to 220 with additional IR.
  • 49225 PTZ - great PTZ and in conjunction with an NVR or Blue Iris and the cameras above that you can use as spotter cams to point the PTZ to the correct location to compliment the fixed cams.
You need to get the correct camera for the area trying to be covered. A 2.8mm to IDENTIFY someone 40 feet away is the wrong camera regardless of how good the camera is. A 2.8mm camera to IDENTIFY someone within 10 feet is a good choice OR it is an overview camera to see something happened but not be able to identify who.

Main keys are you can't locate the camera too high (not on the 2nd story or above 7 feet high unless it is for overview and not Identification purposes) or chase MP and you need to get the correct camera for the area trying to be covered. A 2.8mm to IDENTIFY someone 40 feet away is the wrong camera regardless of how good the camera is. A 2.8mm camera to IDENTIFY someone within 10 feet is a good choice OR it is an overview camera to see something happened but not be able to identify who. Also, do not chase marketing phrases like ColorVu and Full Color and the like - all cameras need light - simple physics...

If you want to see things far away, you need optical zoom, digital zoom only works in the movies and TV...And the optical zoom is done real time - for a varifocal it is a set it and forget it. You cannot go to recorded video and optically zoom in later, at that point it is digital zoom, and the sensors on these cameras are so small which is why digital zoom doesn't work very well after the fact.

Regarding a camera for plates (LPR) - keep in mind that this is a camera dedicated to plates and not an overview camera also. It is as much an art as it is a science. You will need two cameras. For LPR we need to zoom in tight to make the plate as large as possible. For most of us, all you see is the not much more than a vehicle in the entire frame. Now maybe in the right location during the day it might be able to see some other things, but not at night.

At night, we have to run a very fast shutter speed (1/2,000) and in B/W with IR and the image will be black. All you will see are head/tail lights and the plate. Some people can get away with color if they have enough street lights, but most of us cannot. Here is a representative sample of plates I get at night of vehicles traveling about 45MPH at 175 feet from my camera:


1607010182386.png


wittaj

Can you recommend a distributor that would have all the necessary models and lenses to complete a system?

And what's your recommendation on recording?

Thank you,
Bob
 

wittaj

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Many here purchase from @EMPIRETECANDY here under his Loryta and Empiretech brands.

Loryta and Empiretech are Dahua OEM sold by Andy. Some of my cameras I have bought from Andy from his Amazon store come as Dahua cams in Dahua boxes with Dahua logos, and some are not logo'd - I think it depends on how many cameras Andy buys if he gets them with the Dahua Logo or not. But regardless, they are Dahua cams. If you get a camera that has Dahua on it, then the camera GUI will say Dahua; otherwise it will simply say IP Camera but looks identical except without the logo. Some of his cameras may come with EmpireTech stamped on them as well.

As long you you by from the vendor EmpireTech or Loryta on Amazon (or AliExpress), they are Andy cams.

His cameras are international models and many of them are not available through Dahua authorized dealers in the US, but his cameras are usually better than what you can find from an authorized dealer.

You can update the firmware on Andy's cameras from the Dahua website, thus proving they are real Dahua. But you will find that the firmware we get from him is actually better because many members here provide feedback to Andy and then Dahua makes modifications to the firmware and sends back to him and then he sends out to his customers. These have been great improvements that Dahua doesn't even update their firmware and add to their website. So many of us are running a newer firmware than those that purchase Dahua cameras through professional installers. Smart IR on the 5442 series is one such improvement. Autotracking on the 49225 PTZ is another. We got the next version of AI SMD 3.0 prior to anyone else as well.

Look at the threads here where members are actually testing firmware and improving it for Dahua - find a US Dahua dealer with that type of relationship that Andy has with Dahua - I don't think you will find it.
 

wittaj

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Regarding recording, I'd recommend you consider a Blue Iris/computer combo as an NVR. Keep in mind an NVR is simply a stripped down computer after all... And this would allow you the flexibility to mix camera brands.

You don't need to buy components and build one, or buy a new computer either.

When I was looking at replacing an existing NVR, once I realized that not all NVRs are created equal, and once I priced out a good one, it was cheaper to buy a refurbished computer than an NVR.

Many of us buy refurbished computers that are business class computers that have come off lease. The one I bought I kid you not I could not tell that it was a refurbished unit - not a speck of dust or dents or scratches on it. It appeared to me like everything was replaced and I would assume just the motherboard with the intel processor is what was from the original unit. I went with the lowest end processor on the WIKI list as it was the cheapest and it runs my system fine. Could probably get going for $200 or so. A real NVR will cost more than that.

A member here a couple months ago found a refurbished 4th generation for less than $150USD that came with Win10 PRO, 16GB RAM, and a 1TB drive. Blue Iris has a demo, so try it out on an existing computer and see if you like it.

Blue Iris has a demo, so try it out on an existing computer and see if you like it. If you have an NVR now, you can pull the cameras from the NVR right into Blue Iris by simply adding in the IP address of the NVR in the camera IP address of Blue Iris and then down about halfway is a camera # and you just select the camera number to bring in.

There is a big Blue Iris or NVR debate here LOL. Some people love Blue Iris and think NVRs are clunky and hard to use and others think Blue Iris is clunky and hard to use. I have done both and prefer Blue Iris. As with everything YMMV...

And you can disable Windows updates and set up the computer to automatically restart in a power failure, and then you have a more powerful NVR with a nice mobile viewing interface.

Blue Iris is great and works with probably more camera brands than most VMS programs, but there are brands that don't work well or not at all - Rings, Arlos, Nest, Some Zmodo cams use proprietary systems and cannot be used with Blue Iris, and for a lot of people Reolink doesn't work well either. But we would recommend staying away from those brands even if you go the NVR route with one of those brands...
 

Teken

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The overall theme is what you’re doing now which is to do research and ask questions. Once you have narrowed down what your real world needs are.

Sit down and really consider the budget as this will dictate what you have and most times reflects the final quality you obtain from all the hardware.

There are just some things you shouldn’t skimp on and that is the wiring infrastructure. So only buy named brand certified in wall rated (CMR) CAT-6 (23 AWG) solid copper wiring and not CCA wire.

Copper Clad Aluminum (CCA) cable is illegal to use in walls per the NEC / CEC and does not have the same current carrying ability as pure copper nor is it fire rated.

Run multiple pairs in hard to reach areas and consider pulling 22-4, 18-2, 16-4 in wall rated cable. As this will allow you to power anything from LV lights, speakers, microphone, IR etc.

Do not fall prey to the latest fad of powering high current things with CAT cable! No matter how good the cable is it’s not the equivalent to a properly sized cable for X vs Y as noted up above.

You can’t be using 22-4 cable where 14-2 Romex is required! As you literally see this happening in this forum and others because people are cheap and ignorant as to what ampacity is allowed on X cable.

This leads to another major Do Not, Shall Not, Ever power multiple items off a single CAT cable.

This doesn’t mean a microphone or a very low power speaker.

You’ll see people literally power 2-4-6 IP cameras off a single line?!? Not only is this against every industry standard or norm it’s not common sense!

It’s done out of convenience and not understanding a failure & fire is just waiting to happen. Every cable is de-rated to allow headroom. Generally speaking it’s 80% of its ampacity as this allows other factors like heat which increases resistance or the worst in extreme cold less resistance and more current will flow.

Many people also fail to understand one of the major reasons failures and fires are created as it pertains to electronics. The vast majority of electronics like CCTV cameras use highly regulated power supplies that allow them to operate in a wide voltage range.

This is where people mistaken Ohms Law. Because when I tell them when voltage drops current rises the literal Ohms Law folks can’t understand how that can be?!?

That happens because that highly regulated devices tries to keep operating even when the voltage drops to 9 VDC vs it’s standard 12.X VDC! Almost every camera shows a tolerance of 25% variance. That literally means it will run just fine at 15 vs 9 and just great at 12 VDC!

But what they don’t tell you is current will increase because the electronics at some point crosses over to a danger point and tries to it buck up.

So now imagine you have 4 cameras all being powered by a single cable pulling X amps?? Equipment will fail prematurely, cable will open up, wire will heat up.

Other things to consider is proper routing and securing cable. Obviously the shortest path makes sense but sometimes a longer run is needed because it’s just safer and provides better access and long term maintenance if required. Wiring should be secured and supported at least every 4 feet and not left laying on insulation, OSB, etc.

Always leave enough service loop to allow you to move or re-terminate at both ends. All cable should be marked with a sharpie, tagged with wire tape. When pulling cable or protecting the same with 3M 33 speed tape follow the creed: Be a friend & Leave a end on the end of the tape for easier removal.

In the ideal world all wire runs should be the same length as this allows you to calculate and know the resistance / voltage drop. Then if you just have to run multiple items on a single wire you’ll know if you’re still within the 80% vs 100% maximum!

In the worst case scenario document what each length is so you know. Name brand wire will be marked for length. You’ll never see the same on cheaper cable.

If you live in a highly regulated area where the inspector checks everything. Insure all cable shows all the required safety markings otherwise you’ll be pulling it out!

Been there done that in hundreds of homes and businesses over the years.

It goes without saying plan out where you believe a camera would be ideal. When you’re in the attic, crawl space, basement reality hits as to how easy vs hard it will be to run cable. As is pointed in the excellent WiKi build a test rig and test a single camera to learn the ins & outs of the hardware.

But more importantly the limitations of what that specific camera is able to see and capture in both day & night. Trying to balance spot view, over head, perimeter, and panning views takes time, money, and good planning.

When new hardware arrives always set it up on the bench. Perform a solid one week burn in as any infant mortality will show itself normally during that period.

Lots more to discuss but do a search on this forum as there are thousands of posts that offer a gold mine of knowledge from some of the smartest and talented people in DIY / Pro!

Cheers from Canada
 
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