With the Dashcam in our car we capture alot of things were we would say in the past, I wish I had a camera. Thinking UTV Dashcam would cap animal life...
So with our house Sale, a year later, looking at UTVs again. The wife and I were extremely impressed with Kubota's 1140. The big dump bed is really nice and the fact that you can fold part of the bed up and have second row seating is very impressive. Only drawback is it's speed, that we can tell.
I probably already know the answer but has anyone had any experience with CFMoto? Of course their price is appealing, I am going to a Canam Polaris dealer today and they also sale CTMotos. Trying to keep our budget at $15k, a Crew would be nice but really focused on a bigger dump bed. Power Steering seems to also be on my list, for the wife and when I am a bit older...
I know this is an old post but I actually went and looked at the ROXOR, pretty kewl, it is Manual Trans. While there at he Mahindra dealer they had the Intimidator UTVs, major sale on them since they are being replaced with Spartans we were told, since Toro bought them out.
The Intimidator was $16k, normally $22k. I was impressed, thing does 65 MPH, Crew Cab. I just don't like the fact they are the last models, thinking future parts being an issue.
Since the front bench does not move,. the wife was not able to reach the peddles, so we would have to put something on the seat to move her forward.
Smilingreen
Known around here
Well, I don't know what your terrain is like where you are or if you will be doing any trail riding, but if you watch any of the YouTube shows on all of the offroad recovery guys that go out into the desert in Utah and haul broke down XUV's and UTV's out of the desert, you will see many of the weaknesses of the CFMoto's, Honda, Polaris and CanAM. The LOT of broken front end parts, from axels, ball joints, A arms, steering rods, bearings, etc. It could be a combination of young, inexperienced drivers that have a need for an adrenaline rush by going way too fast, jumping them in the sand dunes or try to rock crawl them. Not sure. The front ends seem to be a weak point on them.
Check and see if the dealer has a rental program for them. That way, you can rent one for a weekend before you pull the trigger on one and have buyers remorse after the newness wears off. I know our local CAT dealer rental yard rents XUV's. Every one of them are a Kubota.
On one of the tractors sites I frequent, there are several people who have the Roxor. They all love them. These people are not recent buyers. They use them daily on their ranches and have owned them for several years.
Roxor Helps with About Anything
We were going down the barn driveway.. next to a patch called the "lightening tree (cause lightening struck a tree there 20 years ago and it smoldered for 2 weeks). We're weaning the registered heifers and had just moved them out of the patch that morning ... but there before my eyes was a...
www.nettractortalk.com
Talk to Bordercollie about her Roxor she has had since 2019. She is a nice lady and also very mechanically inclined. Her and her husband own a big cattle ranch in Texas.
Smilingreen
Known around here
So I liked the Roxor, 4 cylinder...manual trans, steel floor...if it were just me I would buy one right away. Problem is the wife, who will be 70 next month, had a hard time getting in it, would need running board or step, it was a bit big for her.
You can tell it was well made and will last. Where we looked we saw 2 on the road drive by...
Thanks for this info. yeah, plastic floors???Well, I don't know what your terrain is like where you are or if you will be doing any trail riding, but if you watch any of the YouTube shows on all of the offroad recovery guys that go out into the desert in Utah and haul broke down XUV's and UTV's out of the desert, you will see many of the weaknesses of the CFMoto's, Honda, Polaris and CanAM. The LOT of broken front end parts, from axels, ball joints, A arms, steering rods, bearings, etc. It could be a combination of young, inexperienced drivers that have a need for an adrenaline rush by going way too fast, jumping them in the sand dunes or try to rock crawl them. Not sure. The front ends seem to be a weak point on them.
Check and see if the dealer has a rental program for them. That way, you can rent one for a weekend before you pull the trigger on one and have buyers remorse after the newness wears off. I know our local CAT dealer rental yard rents XUV's. Every one of them are a Kubota.
On one of the tractors sites I frequent, there are several people who have the Roxor. They all love them. These people are not recent buyers. They use them daily on their ranches and have owned them for several years.
Roxor Helps with About Anything
We were going down the barn driveway.. next to a patch called the "lightening tree (cause lightening struck a tree there 20 years ago and it smoldered for 2 weeks). We're weaning the registered heifers and had just moved them out of the patch that morning ... but there before my eyes was a...
Talk to Bordercollie about her Roxor she has had since 2019. She is a nice lady and also very mechanically inclined. Her and her husband own a big cattle ranch in Texas.
We went and looked at the CFMoto's, found out they add a freight fee, $1500 The sales guy said they come from China in a big box, takes them about 6 hours to assemble one, then they test it for a couple of days before they sale it. One thing, they all come with power steering and some with top/windshield and winch, standard. Their doors are half the price of other UTVs. On avg. they are about $5-7k cheaper in cost.
Our terrain is pretty flat, slight grade on the 10 acres, maybe 5 foot. House is at top where the front and back of the property is about 5 feet graded downward. Sandy Loom, so soft...we do have clay under the sand but about a couple of feet down. I don't foresee it getting stuck but if so a winch will get us out, we have plenty of trees.
I will search for rental...good idea...
The sales guy said all UTVs now have plastic floors
he said as well as another sales guy from another dealer, they have saw/heard of a heavy branch coming up threw the flooring. Just blows me away the cost of these things and they mainly plastic...I liked the look of that intimidator. Liked the 8 ply tires. With mesquite, flats are a way of life. It seems difficult to find anything greater than 6 ply. I fought flats on my tractor until I went with gensco tires. It does mention that it has a metal skid plate so I guess the rest is plastic. I did see 48v ac battery, though that was on a different site and 2024 model. It also shows a 4" screen vice a 7" on the 2023 model.
It is powerful. Only thing it is loud, for me no problem, but the wife and our daughter they complain. The sales guy stated it is the trans, which you could clearly hear, so trying to muffle the exhaust won't help. The CFMoto's have 6 ply too. They sold Canam and Polaris at the dealer we went to, the sales guy said their tires are 4 ply. He said he heard of 10 ply up North.
On the Intimidator the sales guy mentioned a skid plate but it is only a short one in the front, before the floor board I believe. The plastic on the floorboard had flex, not alot. On the cfMoto I did not feel any flex. The CFMoto's had 11" clearance where as the other were closer to 13-16 inches. For where we live I think 11 inches would work. We looked at their 800 and 1000 models. Walkout, without taxes, was $16k on both. The 800 was a Crew Cab. Keep in mind they had tops/windshield/winch for that price. I see why they are a popular sale.
Smilingreen
Known around here
Your sales guy must have forgotten to look at Kubotas. Not sure about the new Gators, My old JD 855D has steel floors and firewall, along with my Kubota RTV X1100C. The Kubota also has full removable steel skid plates mounted under it. Any model that didn't have an fully welded aluminum alloy or steel floor plate and front firewall, I would instantly stay away from. Getting impaled in the middle of the woods by a big tree branch, T post, survey pin, rebar, etc. during a leisurely drive just doesn't sound like a good time to me. It can and does happen.Thanks for this info. yeah, plastic floors???
We went and looked at the CFMoto's, found out they add a freight fee, $1500 The sales guy said they come from China in a big box, takes them about 6 hours to assemble one, then they test it for a couple of days before they sale it. One thing, they all come with power steering and some with top/windshield and winch, standard. Their doors are half the price of other UTVs. On avg. they are about $5-7k cheaper in cost.
Our terrain is pretty flat, slight grade on the 10 acres, maybe 5 foot. House is at top where the front and back of the property is about 5 feet graded downward. Sandy Loom, so soft...we do have clay under the sand but about a couple of feet down. I don't foresee it getting stuck but if so a winch will get us out, we have plenty of trees.
I will search for rental...good idea...
The sales guy said all UTVs now have plastic floors
Woman impaled in freak accident shares her story
Thirty-five-year-old Clancy Talbot was almost killed by a bizarre accident in American Fork Canyon. She is still in a lot of pain while the inside of her body begins a slow healing process.
www.ksl.com
Last edited:
I researched this ad neasium when I was buying almost 2 years ago. My criteria was no drive belts and had to fit 3 normal size adults in the front seat. The only thing on the market was a kubota 1100c or honda pioneer. After testing fitment in both ended up buying the honda pioneer 1000-5 trail edition. It also has seats in the bed that flip up for another 2 passengers if needed. I ain't going to lie, I really wanted the kubota, but when it came to it their cab really could only hold 2 adults due to controls next to the driver on the side. But in hindsight after having a couple of years on it the pioneer was a way better choice for what I use it for. For driving through the woods I think the kubota would have struggled more with mud and slippery conditions. It also was a bit heavier overall than the honda. I also thought that I would regret not having a power dump bed like the kubota has, but I haven't run into a situation where I needed it.
Smilingreen
Known around here
It depends on what tires you get on the X1100c. If you get the worksite tires, yes, they will slip and slide in the mud, as they are a glorified turf tire. But if you get it with the ATV tread tires, mud and slippery conditions are not an issue at all. My farm is hilly and certain portions of it are slick, slimy clay and mud. The X1100c doesn't even flench going up or down the slick muddy hills, my creeks or over slick muddy rocks. It has a locking rear differential and manual four wheel drive. Not sure how it would do in deep sand. Tennessee doesn't have any of that. You won't see any Kubotas out at Moab doing any rock crawling or running the sand dunes.
You can also remove the hip bruiser bar on the X1100C seats on either side. You have steel doors and a full metal cab. Not sure why Kubota put the bars on the X1100. I can see them being useful for the 900 series or any other open cab model to keep from having a passenger slide out the side during a high speed, sharp turn. I removed both bars and 3 adults can easily fit in the front seats. I just have to watch when I slide out, so the dump bed hydraulic control lever doesn't catch the inside of my shorts leg. It will let you know quickly if it did.
Found a used Mule, it is not the 1000 cc, but their 800 cc, has 3500 miles, not sure the hours. 2020 Kawasaki Mule Pro-FXT EPS We may make an hour trip to go see it. It is a Crew with Power Steering and foldable back seat to make bed bigger. The wife will need to see if she can lift the bed, I know full we will have to both lift. But mainly it will be branches and limbs...small logs...
I know to check for water lines underneath, hopefully it did not sit in water for any length of time. Also the boots for control joints. Anything else I should be looking at?
I know to check for water lines underneath, hopefully it did not sit in water for any length of time. Also the boots for control joints. Anything else I should be looking at?
Smilingreen
Known around here
You asked: Long list......
- Look at the A arms on the front end.
- Check all of the ball joints.
- Operate the steering from full left to full right while it is running, but not moving. Listen for any popping noise.
- Slide up underneath and look for any obvious damage to skid plates....or missing skid plates. If you can see the tube frame, is it straight and fully factory painted?
- Find out if the main drive belt has been replaced.
- Hopefully, the engine is cold when you get there to look at it. Don't let the owner start it. You start it. It should start up effortlessly without any throttle. Listen for any ticking noise from the engine. Shift it into gear and give a small amount of throttle. It should slowly start moving nice and smooth. If it is jumpy, the pawls for the centrifugal clutch may be worn or bent.
- Is this a one owner machine? Young owner or more mature owner?
- Looked for cracked or torn CV boots.
- Take it for a ride and see if it steers perfectly straight. If it pulls, something is wonky in the front end.
- Are the rims factory original? Did the owner run it with over sized wheels and tires? (axle stress and wheel bearing stress)
- Look at the brake pads and rotors. Are the pads thin or the rotors grooved?
- Does the underside of the dash wiring look like a spaghetti factory explosion?
- Check the oil. Smell the oil. Does it smell burnt or is it dirty? AT 3500 miles, it is possible that the engine break-in oil is still in it. Check the oil filter housing. Does it look newish or does it look like it has been on it since it was installed at the factory. Any hour or mileage writing on the filter that would indicate someone has changed it?
- Look at the air cleaner element. Clean or filthy?
- If it has one, look at the in-line fuel filter. Does the filter look new and clean?
- How does the gas look inside the filter. Should be clean, not cloudy. If it had E-10 in it, it may have moisture in the fuel.
- Check the roof. Yes, the roof. Do you see any damage that could indicate it was rolled over? Same with the body panels. Are the graphics aligned from panel to panel? Do the graphics on one panel look newer or brighter than the next panel? Could indicate a panel replacement.
- Take a look at the front wheel stance from a distance. Are both wheels even or is one leaning more straight or inwards than the other one is? Could indicate front end damage or suspension damage.
- Lastly, take a close look at the accelerator pedal and the brake pedal surfaces. Do they have a very small amount of wear on them or do they look fairly worn, which would indicate the unit may have a lot more miles on it than what the odometer shows. Don't know if that unit gets the miles from the ECM or if they are stored in the gauge.
A used machine will be only as good as the previous person that owned it. Did they do any PM's on it or did they just ride it? If you buy it, do a full PM on it as soon as you get it home. It's better to start with fresh fluids and filters that you know are fresh than it is to rely on someone telling you it has had all of the PM's done on it. If you have an oil filter housing cutter, cut the housing off, remove the pleated filter material and stretch it flat. Look for an excessive amount of metal on the filter medium.
Last edited:
Wow, thank you very much for this list. It is not long. My father taught me what to look for in used cars/vehicles. One time found a hood with used chalk part number markings yet the owner said it never been wrecked. From what I have been told, most people do not get rid of a good UTV, like your 12 year old Gator...now I know some upgrade, like to a Crew, but this is a Crew.You asked: Long list......
- Look at the A arms on the front end.
- Check all of the ball joints.
- Operate the steering from full left to full right while it is running, but not moving. Listen for any popping noise.
- Slide up underneath and look for any obvious damage to skid plates....or missing skid plates. If you can see the tube frame, is it straight and fully factory painted?
- Find out if the main drive belt has been replaced.
- Hopefully, the engine is cold when you get there to look at it. Don't let the owner start it. You start it. It should start up effortlessly without any throttle. Listen for any ticking noise from the engine. Shift it into gear and give a small amount of throttle. It should slowly start moving nice and smooth. If it is jumpy, the pawls for the centrifugal clutch may be worn or bent.
- Is this a one owner machine? Young owner or more mature owner?
- Looked for cracked or torn CV boots.
- Take it for a ride and see if it steers perfectly straight. If it pulls, something is wonky in the front end.
- Are the rims factory original? Did the owner run it with over sized wheels and tires? (axle stress and wheel bearing stress)
- Look at the brake pads and rotors. Are the pads thin or the rotors grooved?
- Does the underside of the dash wiring look like a spaghetti factory explosion?
- Check the oil. Smell the oil. Does it smell burnt or is it dirty? AT 3500 miles, it is possible that the engine break-in oil is still in it. Check the oil filter housing. Does it look newish or does it look like it has been on it since it was installed at the factory. Any hour or mileage writing on the filter that would indicate someone has changed it?
- Look at the air cleaner element. Clean or filthy?
- If it has one, look at the in-line fuel filter. Does the filter look new and clean?
- How does the gas look inside the filter. Should be clean, not cloudy. If it had E-10 in it, it may have moisture in the fuel.
- Check the roof. Yes, the roof. Do you see any damage that could indicate it was rolled over? Same with the body panels. Are the graphics aligned from panel to panel? Do the graphics on one panel look newer or brighter than the next panel? Could indicate a panel replacement.
- Take a look at the front wheel stance from a distance. Are both wheels even or is one leaning more straight or inwards than the other one is? Could indicate front end damage or suspension damage.
- Lastly, take a close look at the accelerator pedal and the brake pedal surfaces. Do they have a very small amount of wear on them or do they look fairly worn, which would indicate the unit may have a lot more miles on it than what the odometer shows. Don't know if that unit gets the miles from the ECM or if they are stored in the gauge.
A used machine will be only as good as the previous person that owned it. Did they do any PM's on it or did they just ride it? If you buy it, do a full PM on it as soon as you get it home. It's better to start with fresh fluids and filters that you know are fresh than it is to rely on someone telling you it has had all of the PM's done on it. If you have an oil filter housing cutter, cut the housing off, remove the pleated filter material and stretch it flat. Look for an excessive amount of metal on the filter medium.
There are a few concerns already with this one, it has been listed for 80 days, and 40 days from same dealer different location. Kinda a red flag for me since most of these sell quick. Also, I see rust on the Brake Lever, where was this UTV kept?
