wifi not sticking %$#@!!!

That sounds feasible. But for clarification: are you saying I should wire the second camera on the garage to the nanobeam connected to the first camera so they share that? I actually could wire in the garage, that IS feasible....

Many thanks for all the ideas. This is confusing as I have so many differing opinions. Ubiquity support even suggests to
create a point to a multipoint link with a Nanostation Loco M5 wired at the router AND at each camera and then have a Unifi AC Mesh at each camera as well. That would be crazy pricey if this network expands (as I am sure it will).

my interpretation of you drawing was the camera 1 is on the same building as the router, so i would run a cable from the router to camera 1 - camera 2 - is on a building separate from the building with the router so using a nanobeem pointing to the router then wiring to camera 2.

yes you could buy 3 mesh access points you would wire on to the router and fit externally then mesh the other two and connect to each camera but it would be 3 times the cost :) ( mesh is linking wirelessly to the AP that is wired,)

hope it helps
 
Thanks all. With all the conflicting info I am still unsure. I realize the drawing is very crude but I cannot wire from the router to either camera. I CAN wire from camera 1 to camera 2 so maybe I could use the TP-Link AV2000 2-Port Gigabit. It is possible the outlets are even on the same circuit (though I doubt it). Do any of you have experience with those working well with downloading video (remember, I am planning to not stream live, rather recording on motion to an onboard SIM card and then downloading from camera every few days).

Copex, my understanding of your suggestion above was router wired to Nanostation Loco M5 beaming wifi to another Nanostation Loco M5 attached via POE to each camera SHOULD work. Is that correct? Is it more SHOULD or more WILL work? ;-) The powerline kit is cheaper for a maybe solution....

Anyway, thanks again.
 
1, ok using 1 nanobeam pointing to back to the router, then wire to a switch then wire to the two cameras would work. as the distance is only 60ft you should be ok only using one device. see image click link. image1

using two M5 you set one as an Access point and one as a Client, now when using the nanobeem the router is the AP and the nanobeem would be the Client you should be able to get a good signal between the two devices, wort case you change the router or add a second nanobeem.

I can not recommend the power-line adapters, i would say this ensure you can return them if they do not work and give them a try see how it gos ;-) ( you may have to ajust the FPS on the cameras to get a good image.)

jmFVGk
 
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I have a couple cams on powerline and it works well. The adaptors you linked are pretty large so be aware of that. There are smaller ones out there. I bought a pair of those because I liked not losing the ac plug, but they were too big to fit where I needed them.

Also they do not need to be on the same circuit, but the same "leg" of the 220 in your house. Main limitation is distance.
 
I can not recommend the power-line adapters, i would say this ensure you can return them if they do not work and give them a try see how it gos ;-) ( you may have to ajust the FPS on the cameras to get a good image.)

jmFVGk

Why would FPS need to be adjusted to "get a good image"?
 
All, I have done the installation and it is working like a charm now. Thanks to all who helped guide me by providing useful information.

So that this might help others here is what I did that worked, AND what did not:
The setup is in an old Mid Century Modern wood frame house by a famous architect. I could not cut into the walls and all wiring had to be hidden. Also, just to complicate things further, the tenant in the home could not know I was working on it. Initially, I had cable brought in to the basement so I connected a router, firewall, and switch there. The router also had a wifi and VPN capability with some add ons. I started with 1 wifi camera in a breezeway only 30+ feet away. All worked when set up in testing elsewhere. However, the wifi was not configurable to adjust power levels and could not connect with a strong enough signal to get through 2 wood walls and reliably connect to the camera.

NoloC suggested Powerline so I ordered a TPlink AV2000 kit (returnable) as well as two Ubiquity Nanostation LocoM2s (suggested by TomasLTU and Copex). The TP link were reviewed most highly in various places. The LocoM2s were chosen because the 2.4 ghz freq is supposedly better at blasting through things (vs M5).

The Powerline did not work at all. Even testing on two adjacent outlets on the same circuit. I suspect older code had different setups and Powerline is optimized for some new setup. I know the house is properly grounded and all good 12 gauge solid copper.

I set up the two Locos in wireless bridge mode so one is off the switch connected to the router and is aimed at the outbuilding. I have the power turned up all the way to 23 db in both Locos. In the outbuilding I have the other set up in the same way and paired to the first. It is actually 10' further than the first camera and through a third wall (but no insulation or sheetrock on the inside).The remote Loco is hard wired to a switch in a utility closet in the outbuilding with POE and two other cameras are also hardwired to the switch (outside I was able to route wires without drilling/cutting/defacing). The switches are current Netgear 100mbps port switches.

The Ubiquity setup has some non-intuitive configuration but their tec support was diligent (though I DID get differing answers on separate calls so had to be persistent) but was overall pretty straightforward and the pairing was cool. Encryption was easy.

Anyway, I am watching the house now :) and all is good. I hope this thread helps someone else...

Thanks again!
 
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Glad you got it working. UBNT stuff can have a pretty steep learning curve but the support forum is excellent. I didn't know they had phone support now. That was probably the only complaint in the past. Very reliable devices in my experience.

Not sure why the powerline didn't work. Not likely to have anything to do with older wiring. If the devices were on adjacent outlets on the same circuit, I would guess they were defective. Not that it matters now! Water under the (wireless) bridge.

Best!