Wiring up the Amcrest AD410, with a mechanical chime (D117)

Yippy

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Hi all,
My doorbell should be arriving soon from the US, I wanted to wire up the doorbell with a DIN Transformer (VEMER VN319000) that can power both the doorbell using 24V and the chime with 12V.

List:
  • VEMER VN319000 12-24V 30VA Transformer Link
  • Honeywell Wired Doorbell D117 12V Link
  • Taiss/AC 24V Coil Electromagnetic Relay LY2NJ with YJTF08A-E Socket Base
  • Amcrest AD410 Link

Diagram:
Removed v1 diagram, it was wrong.

I'm just wondering if any electrician could double check if this is right, I've been following another tutorial for the Unifi Protect G4 Doorbell, and figured that having a stronger transformer would be future-proofing.

There is a chance that the Amcrest may not meet my requirement, so having this type of flexibility matters for me. There seems to be more powerful doorbell as time goes by, instead of POE solution.
 
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Yippy

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Made a mistake with the Relay connection, 7 is Live and 8 is Neutral. The chime kit is needed to avoid triggering the Relay
Amcrest AD410 Wiring With Chime v2.png

Update
This wiring works, I've manage to get the doorbell and the chime working. Chime can only work when going through the AD410 settings, to enable mechanical chime.

There is no noise coming from the transformer (with no enclosure), but upon pressing the doorbell the relay make this typewriter click to activate the doorbell chime. The only thing that is disappointed right now is the doorbell chime output, it doesn't seems to be 80db. Putting the Doorbell Chime enclosure helped amplify the sound, so far this setup seems to be more reliable than the previous EVIZ doorbell DB2 that was returned.
 
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Smant11

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@Yippy How reliable has this been for the past few months? Looking at doing a similar setup but I'm a little concerned about 1. some reports of the VN319000 proving more than 24v power (closer to 30v) and 2. I've read elsewhere 24v can fry the chime kit?
 

Yippy

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@Yippy How reliable has this been for the past few months? Looking at doing a similar setup but I'm a little concerned about 1. some reports of the VN319000 proving more than 24v power (closer to 30v) and 2. I've read elsewhere 24v can fry the chime kit?
Worked fine all this time, running 24/7. Much better user experience than my previous doorbell cam, highly recommended.

Though I haven't personally checked the volt output, maybe you getting worried over different brands out there that are faulty.
 

jstreak15

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Hi @Yippy hope you're having a great new year :D Thanks for sharing your experience on this forum - I've found it super helpful. One thing I didn't understand was the need for the relay. What is it used for? Can I exclude this relay from the setup? Thanks in advance!
 

Yippy

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Hi @Yippy hope you're having a great new year :D Thanks for sharing your experience on this forum - I've found it super helpful. One thing I didn't understand was the need for the relay. What is it used for? Can I exclude this relay from the setup? Thanks in advance!
Yup, will be looking forward to this new year :D. To help with your issue, yes you'll need the relay to ping the mechanical door chime, cause the voltage is different. The mechanical door chime is 12V and the Amcrest is 24V, the Amcrest will send a pulse to the relay to activate the chime.
 

pixielark

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out of curiosity, why would you need to supply 24v to the ad410? looks like from their doc its ok to use 16V~30Va, and a 16v hardware chime is widely available so your wire diagram can be simplified a lot. no need for that VEMER VN319000 12-24V 30VA Transformer but just a 16v trans for everything
 

Smant11

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out of curiosity, why would you need to supply 24v to the ad410? looks like from their doc its ok to use 16V~30Va, and a 16v hardware chime is widely available so your wire diagram can be simplified a lot. no need for that VEMER VN319000 12-24V 30VA Transformer but just a 16v trans for everything
I can’t speak for OP but 16v 30va+ transformers were a pain to find in Europe/UK that takes 240v input. For others who may be interested, I managed to get a 50va one from Germany designed for a model train set which did the trick, although a little large.. it was also supplying 18.9v which was still quite over the 16v but still well within range.


BAB65A53-C4BB-4B60-BF41-F28FA39BC7ED.jpeg
 

Yippy

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out of curiosity, why would you need to supply 24v to the ad410? looks like from their doc its ok to use 16V~30Va, and a 16v hardware chime is widely available so your wire diagram can be simplified a lot. no need for that VEMER VN319000 12-24V 30VA Transformer but just a 16v trans for everything
If you go to the datasheet of the camera, the power input is AC16V~AC24V, DC12V~DC24V. The troubleshooting Faq is normally simplified, check out the official Datasheet link:

The transformer I've used is my use case, if you got something better locally than bravo you.

I can’t speak for OP but 16v 30va+ transformers were a pain to find in Europe/UK that takes 240v input. For others who may be interested, I managed to get a 50va one from Germany designed for a model train set which did the trick, although a little large.. it was also supplying 18.9v which was still quite over the 16v but still well within range.


View attachment 156124
Yeah, being in the UK we don't get good transformers for 'doorbells'. The only thing that I've found in the UK was the 16V 8VA 2 Module Bell Transformer BT8-16 16V 8VA, but I wanted something with more juice for future doorbells in the future. So I've imported that VEMER transformer from Italy, as I wasn't too sure if I've liked the AD410, the Unifi G4 Doorbell required 16—24V AC 20VA. I was not going to plan on buying different types of transformers, one that is powerful would suit all cases is better.

In the end, I've been using the AD410 for almost a year now. I just wished that the doorbell is Google Home Hub supported. The RTSP and Mechanical chime has been working great though, I've recently added another chime just parallel wiring as the first chime.
 
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