Working on Truck

[David L]

Right Bot...

 

[SJGUSMC21]

I don't get the bot thing. Wow.

 

[David L]

I don't get the bot thing. Wow.

I am with you, not sure it's purpose, I hope it is not gaining access to gather content for some kind of data storage/sell. IPCT ends up on the search engines for good reason, most who help the members here are also helping non-members when they search for solutions/answers online.

But to have a Bot signup and create an account just to post a stupid AI comment puzzles me too.

So in my search I found this...I am still laughing thinking about it. A question similar to ours got posted and looks like an Answer is a ChatGPT AI generated one...Heck the question could also be from a Bot...
Our Future World is going to be full of Deception



Hamza Alone
Phd Physics in Science & Science, Punjab Group Of Colleges (Graduated 2012)Author has 72 answers and 6.7K answer viewsApr 11

Bots, short for robots, are automated software programs that perform tasks autonomously, often without human intervention. Bots can be designed for a wide range of purposes, including web crawling, data scraping, customer service, social media management, and more. However, some bots can also be used for malicious activities such as spamming, spreading misinformation, or engaging in deceptive practices.

In the context of online forums such as Stack Exchange, Reddit, Meta Filter, and Stack Overflow, bots can potentially post questions or comments that may not necessarily contribute meaningfully to the discussion or may be repetitive, low-quality, or even spammy in nature. These bot-generated questions or comments can clutter the forums and reduce the overall quality of the community-driven discussions.

Forum administrators and moderators are aware of the issue of bots and often take measures to combat them. This can include implementing anti-bot measures such as captcha or other human verification mechanisms, employing automated bot detection algorithms, and relying on human moderation to identify and remove bot-generated content.

However, bots can be sophisticated and constantly evolve, making it challenging to completely eradicate them. Additionally, distinguishing between bot-generated content and legitimate user-generated content can be difficult, as some bots are designed to mimic human behavior.

Efforts are continuously being made to mitigate the impact of bots on online forums. This includes regular updates to anti-bot measures, improved machine learning algorithms for bot detection, and active moderation by human moderators. However, it's an ongoing battle, and there is no one-size-fits-all solution. It's important for users of these forums to report any suspected bot activity and for forum administrators to take appropriate measures to tackle bots and maintain the quality of discussions.

#bots #onlineforums #spam #botdetection #botmitigation #forummoderation #StackExchange #Reddit #MetaFilter #StackOverflow #onlinecommunity #botactivity #anti-botmeasures

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[SJGUSMC21]

Thank you for posting this information. And here I am just trying make a living, minding my own business. I don't have time for shit like this. Who TF are these people? Whatever, I wish them nothing good.

 

[SJGUSMC21]

Now that we are past the bot drama, let me share with you some of the stupid mistakes I have made recently.

About 2 years ago, I changed my brake pads. Thought I did front and back. Key word here 'thought'. Recently my rear wheels rear making a grinding sound/feeling. Because I 'thought' I had changed the back brakes as well (can't believe I was this forgetful) I thought the grinding sound was my bearings/axle. Yeap, I way over thought it. So, I am in my neighbors garage with my truck jacked up (I cannot get my truck in my garage and he is a single, retired school teacher and my friend) and I pull my rear wheels. Holy Mother of Christ! Not only are the pads gone, but a good section of the metal on the brakes is gone as well! And yes, I had one hell of a gouge/grove worn into both of them. Wow, what an idiot. So not only did I have to replace the rear pads, I had to replace both rotors as well. On top of that, the right rear caliper was frozen and I couldn't get the piston back in...so new caliper. This is where I learned how to bleed my brakes. While doing this, I discovered how nasty my brake fluid was and flushed my entire brake system and replaced the dot 3 with dot 4 (lots of reading on tihs subject). Although I didn't need to, I went ahead and replaced the front pads as well...so all four brakes now have ceramic pads on them. Last week, when I was driving home from work at around 75 mph, I had to apply my brakes fairly hard. Yeap. My front end started shaking and shimmering like a hooker on payday. So this Saturday, I am swapping out the front rotors as well. I also drained and replaced the rear differential fluid. This I have never done as well. Easy shit. Actually, really enjoyed it, because when it was draining out, I fell asleep and got in a good 40 minute nap under my rear end! Sunday I am draining and replacing the CVT transmission fluid and filters in my wife's 2017 Nissan Rogue.

I am no mechanic, that's for sure. But I try...

 

[Smilingreen]

I am getting to be an old fart. I cant get back up off the floor like I used to be able to. Anything that requires me to lay on the floor, I use a couple of mechanics in town that have lifts. I pay them to do that type of work. My tractors, mowers, etc, I can usually reach everything without getting down on the ground and service those myself. I have a mechanic service everything on my F250. I usually service my Audi myself, as I dont really trust shade tree mechanics to work on it and I absolutely refuse to take it to the stealership for service. I use an oil extraction pump to change oils. I have an electric grease gun with a extra long hose for greasing everything. I own factory service manuals fir every vehicle and piece of heavy equipment I own. I am well versed on diagnosing problems and how to fix them, I have all the tools and instrumentation to do it myself, I am just getting old and prefer to let the younger, more agile folks do some of the work.

 

[David L]

Now that we are past the bot drama, let me share with you some of the stupid mistakes I have made recently.

About 2 years ago, I changed my brake pads. Thought I did front and back. Key word here 'thought'. Recently my rear wheels rear making a grinding sound/feeling. Because I 'thought' I had changed the back brakes as well (can't believe I was this forgetful) I thought the grinding sound was my bearings/axle. Yeap, I way over thought it. So, I am in my neighbors garage with my truck jacked up (I cannot get my truck in my garage and he is a single, retired school teacher and my friend) and I pull my rear wheels. Holy Mother of Christ! Not only are the pads gone, but a good section of the metal on the brakes is gone as well! And yes, I had one hell of a gouge/grove worn into both of them. Wow, what an idiot. So not only did I have to replace the rear pads, I had to replace both rotors as well. On top of that, the right rear caliper was frozen and I couldn't get the piston back in...so new caliper. This is where I learned how to bleed my brakes. While doing this, I discovered how nasty my brake fluid was and flushed my entire brake system and replaced the dot 3 with dot 4 (lots of reading on tihs subject). Although I didn't need to, I went ahead and replaced the front pads as well...so all four brakes now have ceramic pads on them. Last week, when I was driving home from work at around 75 mph, I had to apply my brakes fairly hard. Yeap. My front end started shaking and shimmering like a hooker on payday. So this Saturday, I am swapping out the front rotors as well. I also drained and replaced the rear differential fluid. This I have never done as well. Easy shit. Actually, really enjoyed it, because when it was draining out, I fell asleep and got in a good 40 minute nap under my rear end! Sunday I am draining and replacing the CVT transmission fluid and filters in my wife's 2017 Nissan Rogue.

I am no mechanic, that's for sure. But I try...

I remember installing my first ceramic brakes, actually they were part metal too, was told they last longer. Will say I like ceramic, they are cooler and no brake dust. Funny but I too have taken a few power naps under my vehicles

 

[SJGUSMC21]

And my mechanic saga continues..... In a County and State far, far away........ (humming the star wars theme...)

If any of you are familiar with the Pentastar 3.6 V6 engine, you will know that it has the oil filter and oil filter housing/cooler on top of the Engine in a valley. And YES, the housing is made of plastic...marvelous Mattel toy shit. Yes, they have a habit of warping, cracking or the gaskets going bad and the oil/coolant leaking out and dripping down the back of the engine, onto the transmission bell, and down. Making one think that your main seal is bad...but it's not...you just have over an inch of oil and coolant pooled up in the middle of the top of your engine. Lovely.

At 60K or so miles, this first happened on my truck, and Dodge replaced it for free. Well, that was then, and now i am at 107K miles. So I said screw that and replaced it with a Dorman all metal housing. If I wasn't as 'round' as I am and certainly not 60, it wouldn't have been so bad. I took a day off from work, and it took me around 10 hours to do it. Not tp bad I would say. However, I am just now recovering, and it is Monday. This sucked. Sucked hard, but I got it done. Didn't know that much oil and coolant could pool up in that area. It can and it did. So fingers crossed that I don't have to do this again. I have been told it is around $1500+ and time without my vehicle if I get it done at a dealership. BTW..now I know why I was running low on coolant. It was leaking into here and burning off.

Mattel toy crap..... And new Dorman metal housing....

 

[wrapter]

I want to know which genius decided to started making plastic valve covers, intake manifolds for cars. All it takes is a ruptured hose or a leaking coolant pump to warp the manifold which then can lead to a warped aluminium cylinder head when the head gasket fails.

 

[Sybertiger]

And my mechanic saga continues..... In a County and State far, far away........ (humming the star wars theme...)

If any of you are familiar with the Pentastar 3.6 V6 engine, you will know that it has the oil filter and oil filter housing/cooler on top of the Engine in a valley. And YES, the housing is made of plastic...marvelous Mattel toy shit. Yes, they have a habit of warping, cracking or the gaskets going bad and the oil/coolant leaking out and dripping down the back of the engine, onto the transmission bell, and down. Making one think that your main seal is bad...but it's not...you just have over an inch of oil and coolant pooled up in the middle of the top of your engine. Lovely.

At 60K or so miles, this first happened on my truck, and Dodge replaced it for free. Well, that was then, and now i am at 107K miles. So I said screw that and replaced it with a Dorman all metal housing. If I wasn't as 'round' as I am and certainly not 60, it wouldn't have been so bad. I took a day off from work, and it took me around 10 hours to do it. Not tp bad I would say. However, I am just now recovering, and it is Monday. This sucked. Sucked hard, but I got it done. Didn't know that much oil and coolant could pool up in that area. It can and it did. So fingers crossed that I don't have to do this again. I have been told it is around $1500+ and time without my vehicle if I get it done at a dealership. BTW..now I know why I was running low on coolant. It was leaking into here and burning off.

I hear ya brother. All the manufacturers are going with plastic valve covers and intake manifolds. Over time they warp and crack leaving you with fluid and vacuum leaks. The 3rd gen Ford Exploders seem to have the manifold issue as early as 60K miles. If anyone has a 3rd gen on here you can find the process below. While I was in there I changed out the timing chain components, water pump and some other things while I had it torn down. May as well while the engine is all apart.

Somewhere from the time you open the hood to start the work to the point where you have what seems half the engine torn down and you are look at the engine without the chains and gears on you wonder if you are going to have leftover parts when you are done.

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www.explorerforum.com

Tips for Timing Chain Service on 4.6L V8

I recently completed timing chain replacement on my 2002 Explorer with 4.6L V8 so I thought I'd chime in with some tips and answers for those considering this service. My engine has 150K miles on it and I've always been a stickler for changing the oil every 3,000 miles using Motorcraft 5W20...

www.explorerforum.com

 

[Sybertiger]

p.s. all those paper towels blocking the ports from dirt, dust and gunk look familiar.

 

[SJGUSMC21]

This guy is my ABSOLUTE HERO! I love his video's and he is truly 'Harry the homeowner' that does his own repairs. 'notamechanic'

 

[garycrist]

If anyone is to blame for the compact engine bays, blame those democrats @ the EPA and Congress with all of their mandates.
They are fixing to destroy the automotive industry here in the U.S.A.

 

[TonyR]

I hear ya brother. All the manufacturers are going with plastic valve covers and intake manifolds. Over time they warp and crack leaving you will fluid and vacuum leaks. The 3rd gen Ford Exploders seem to have the manifold issue as early as 60K miles. If anyone has a 3rd gen on here you can find the process below. While I was in there I changed out the timing chain components, water pump and some other things while I had it torn down. May as well while the engine is all apart.

Somewhere from the time you open the hood to start the work to the point where you have what seems half the engine torn down and you are look at the engine without the chains and gears on you wonder if you are going to have leftover parts when you are done.

Loading…

www.explorerforum.com

Tips for Timing Chain Service on 4.6L V8

I recently completed timing chain replacement on my 2002 Explorer with 4.6L V8 so I thought I'd chime in with some tips and answers for those considering this service. My engine has 150K miles on it and I've always been a stickler for changing the oil every 3,000 miles using Motorcraft 5W20...

www.explorerforum.com

That 2002 4.6 sure was pretty and clean 14 years later in 2016! Good job, thanks for sharing.
Had a 5.0L (Windsor 302) V8 in a '98 Eddie Bauer Explorer....sounded good for stock, ran darn good, too.

Oh, BTW...were you aware of this class action suit regarding that defective manifold?

Ford Modular engine - Wikipedia

en.wikipedia.org

 

[David L]

p.s. all those paper towels blocking the ports from dirt, dust and gunk look familiar.

View attachment 184573

Da Wife, "Where did all my paper towels go?"

 

[garycrist]

I have a 97 V8 Explorer sitting next to my 92 GT Mustang.
But, let me tell you about our new 22 Edge ST! Just think 162 CID cranking out in excess
of 330 HP without a tune! This thing will outrun a '69 Boss 302 but, I have air, heated cooled seats, bla bla bla.
Oh, did I forget 12 speakers

 

[Sybertiger]

I have a 97 V8 Explorer sitting next to my 92 GT Mustang.
But, let me tell you about our new 22 Edge ST! Just think 162 CID cranking out in excess
of 330 HP without a tune! This thing will outrun a '69 Boss 302 but, I have air, heated cooled seats, bla bla bla.
Oh, did I forget 12 speakers

I like the Ford Edge. My parents have the Lincoln version of it, the MKX. It's got a 2.7L V6 with a turbo charger. A lot of HP and that thing gets going quick. Unfortunately, the particular engine he has is the direct port injection engine design that Ford came up with and that engine is prone to have carbon/gunk buildup on the backside of the valves. With a regular injection system with the intake manifold the air-fuel mixture "washes" the valves which eliminates to a certain extent the carbon buildup. I had heard that after about 60K miles or so some of them start to have issues due to the valves not closing all the way. The only recourse is (my understanding) that you have to remove the head and "walnut shell blast" the carbon buildup off. Expensive. I think one of the Japanese or Korean car makers came up with a duel injection system that still has the direct port injector then another set of injectors on an intake manifold that "wash" the valves. Sounded to me like the wash injectors kick in every once in awhile. Don't know if it's every so many cycles or RPMS. Seems kind of complicated but it kind of gives a more balanced approach to still give good mileage and resolves the direct port injection problem.

 

[garycrist]

Gen 2 Nano (2.7L TT) in the F150 has both port and DI.
A PCV catch-can will help solve the carbon problem. I am
investigating adding water meth injection. That and a tune will send
these beasts into the 12s no problem. These Edge/MKX weigh in more
than a F150!

 

[Sybertiger]

Gen 2 Nano (2.7L TT) in the F150 has both port and DI.
A PCV catch-can will help solve the carbon problem. I am
investigating adding water meth injection. That and a tune will send
these beasts into the 12s no problem. These Edge/MKX weigh in more
than a F150!

PFDI engine is what I was thinking of. I didn't realize Ford has one now.

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www.fordcomponentsalesllc.com