Worlds First Review - Dahua DH-IPC-HDW5849H-ASE-LED / IPC-Color4K-T - 2.8mm Turret

I watched Wildcats review and the 4k-x has a picture in my opinion, andy should have been honest and straightforward with me and simply told me what the differences between the two cameras were, rather than saying it's just missing a speaker, which I believe is misleading and would have influenced my purchase decision.

I agree that the camera is good, but is it as good as the 4k-x? It doesn't support 30 frames per second, which is very disappointing, and the features are, in my opinion, limited because you can only use one of them at a time; additionally, face detection on my model doesn't seem to work at all. It would be great if face detection and object detection could be used simultaneously.
Take it off of PAL, change to NTSC, and it will support 30fps.
Any of the AI enabled Dahua cams I've reviewed only allow you to use Face Detection or Object Detection, one or the other, not both at the same time.
Be sure you have properly tuned the camera for "your" scene, using manual settings. Any camera left on auto for exposure and shutter, will not perform to its full potential.
 
BUG MAGNET! Great camera, but (at night using LEDs) my Alerts Tab is filled with flying insects attracted to the light. It's installed at a location where there is very little light, so need to use the LEDs.
Looking to use supplemental lighting vs. camera LEDs, or move to another location with better ambient light.
Curious if typical landscape lighting will work, or something more like a dusk to dawn flood light.

Lots of different landscape lighting from the crappy little solar lights (which won't be enough) to something better so hard to say. The usual big floodlights in a typical yard will be way more than they need. Something in between those is good. With my 4K-X I use some of the Philips Hue outdoor spotlights and other lighting which can be adjusted to different levels and that works very well at ~30-50% without being too bright otherwise.

In any case, assuming that these work the same way that the 4K-X does, using off-cam lighting will get you much better results than the onboard illumination. The onboard lights seem to give results similar to using Smart IR in a very dark area. That is, the cam adjusts things on its own to adapt the exposure to the limited area lit more brightly with the illuminators and everything else outside that area goes black. With off-cam lights you'll get a much better image of the overall area.
 
Update on the issue's with my 4K-T and the Web5.0 interface.
I'm currently testing another new camera that also uses' the Web5.0 interface, and I'm seeing almost the exact same issue's with this cam as I do the 4k-t.
Can't get the profile schedule to work, at all, just like the 4K-t.
Won't set DST correctly, just like the 4k-t.
Setting IVS will sometimes wipe out exposure and condition settings.
Sd card is not properly recognized in this cam.
I've only used IE and Firefox with this new cam, and still the same issue's I've seen with Edge on the 4k-t.
Also, on this new cam, the interface is very sluggish, will lockup IE if like monitoring the live view for more than say 15 minutes.
Uses a huge amount of resources while that cam is open in IE.
Firmware has not been updated by me.
No doubt there are many bugs lurking in the Web5.0 interface that need to be ironed out.

@Wildcat_1 @sebastiantombs @wittaj
 
I agree with the screwiness of the 4kt. The camera itself works great most of the time but messing with settings can lead to unexpected results. I had the camera dialed in and decided to setup IVS. It ended up resetting all of my camera image settings to default and removing the schedules I had set. I don't hate the new web gui but it's obvious it's more then a simple design update when settings get nuked at random. Kind of surprising how firmware this rough got released.

The IE lockup with web5.0 is beyond annoying too. I've had luck with chrome saving settings as well but decided to try IE after IVS dumped image settings on me.

I guess the good thing is the camera still works well at default settings. The schedule stuff has been sorted out with using BI for it.
 
Kind of surprising how firmware this rough got released.
I guess the good thing is the camera still works well at default settings. The schedule stuff has been sorted out with using BI for it.
In my case, the two Web5.0 cams, I have not been able to get the API link to work at all in either cam. Either in a web browser or from BI.
When using the API link in a browser, In IE, I get an error that the address can't be found. In Firefox i get an OK back from the camera, but the profile settings never change.
In reality or based on what the conditions show in the setup.

I'm now finding that this new camera, won't even hold the day/night settings I manually choose, it changes willy nilly.
That's with no schedules enabled at all.

My 4k-t in my scene is not usable in default settings.
 
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In my situation if the close focus of the 3.6 is at 16 feet or so it works out perfectly. It's situational dependent so use some thought before deciding on which is best. The only way to know, for sure, is to try it.

I still think 16ft close focus is awfully far, it should be closer to the 2.8mm in distance. Its hard to really know without mounting the camera also, I would prefer to avoid having to return one as well.
 
I think I can say that I'm seeing focus closer that 16 feet, maybe 10 to 12 feet. But I would also expect to see variations from camera to camera no matter how carefully they may be assembled.
 
I think I can say that I'm seeing focus closer that 16 feet, maybe 10 to 12 feet. But I would also expect to see variations from camera to camera no matter how carefully they may be assembled.

I could deal with 10ft, the 3.6mm would be a nice focal length to view the driveway. But the camera will be mounted right near the garage doors so I wanted to be able to focus fairly close, if its a couple feet not a big deal I can change the mounting location, but 8ft is a larger difference.

I am a little limited in placement though as where I need to mount there is a chimney next to the garage so I can only mount so far away.
 
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I think I can say that I'm seeing focus closer that 16 feet, maybe 10 to 12 feet. But I would also expect to see variations from camera to camera no matter how carefully they may be assembled.

I would agree. In my testing I don't recall thinking any of it was out of focus except for my close up shots adjusting the angle LOL.

Also everyone needs to keep in mind that adjusting the parameters (brightness, gamma, NR, etc.) can have an impact on focus as well.

Here was a recent thread discussing how much changing the parameters can impact focus:

 
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I kinda like that they've decided to put more focus distance on the 3.6mm, offering a solution for those that need an overview cam, one can always opt for 2.8mm model for closer recognition purposes, the field of view is not that much different.
 
Tuning a camera to the location, both for day and night, is always a key to get best performance from every aspect of the camera including focus. Over exposure, overly sharp and over saturation can really mess things up in a rush.
 
I would agree. In my testing I don't recall thinking any of it was out of focus except for my close up shots adjusting the angle LOL.

Also everyone needs to keep in mind that adjusting the parameters (brightness, gamma, NR, etc.) can have an impact on focus as well.

Here was a recent thread discussing how much changing the parameters can impact focus:


So it sounds like there may be less of a difference once the camera has been calibrated.
 
I would agree. In my testing I don't recall thinking any of it was out of focus except for my close up shots adjusting the angle LOL.

Also everyone needs to keep in mind that adjusting the parameters (brightness, gamma, NR, etc.) can have an impact on focus as well.

Here was a recent thread discussing how much changing the parameters can impact focus:

Also remember the production run will play a part on this. One of my key feedback items to Dahua was to adjust the focal point / CFD before production. That got implemented I’m glad to say BUT I would have expected at least 1 batch (if not 2) to go out with the ‘older’ focus adjustment. This for both 2.8 & 3.6. The 2.8 is a lot better now so am glad they adjusted it per my feedback as that was way too far in pre-prod.
 
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OK I followed your steps above but I do not think it is completely factory resetting?

When I first open up the menu, all you get is the IP camera and the little house. I pop open a few of these to write down my settings and then do the factory reset.

When it initializes back up, it shows all these options (camera, record, etc.) that were there before I factory reset - shouldn't that have been cleared out again.

So for kicks I removed a few and factory reset and it opened up to the same screen.

I don't know if that makes sense what I am trying to say, but it keeps in the bar the "options" that I had previously opened after a factory reset.

View attachment 143334
Yes I should have added clear browser cache to the steps I sent. Was late and a long day so my apologies for not making that clear as well
 
Here's a quick screen grab from UI3 from a minute ago. Clousy day with constant mist. The stairs are about 10 feet from the camera. The squirrel is out around 25 to 30 feet. Hope this helps someone.

4k-T focus.JPG
 
I tested the resolution of the Color-X cameras versus distance and posted some results in that thread. I do not expect the Color-T cameras to perform much differently. (They could be using different lenses or focus the camera at a different distance.)


The results were much better than I expected for both the 2.8 and 3.6 mm versions and worse than expected for the 6 mm version. The graph shown below plots the measured resolution for each camera divided by the theatrical resolution. All versus object distance. The theoretical resolution is basically the size of one pixel in the camera projected out to the object by the focal length of the lens. No camera can resolve better than 1.0 and getting down to 1.2 is very good for any camera. When the resolution ration is two, a point source at that distance would show up in the camera as covering two pixels.

All of the cameras do extremely well at far distances, indicating that they have been optimized to see distant objects. The 2.8 mm camera starts to get soft around 4 feet, the two 3.6 mm cameras get soft around 6 feet, and the two 6 mm cameras get soft around 20 feet. This softness is due to the depth of field of the lens. The two ways to improve improve the resolution at shorter distances would be to stop down the lens, decreasing the amount of light reaching the sensor, or to focus the lens closer, which would make the resolution worse at large distances.

There have been discussions in other threads about opening up the cameras and manually altering the focus for nearer objects. If this is done the camera will lose resolution at far distances. Tradeoffs - Dahua has decided that it is most important to have sharp images at far distances.

Color-X Resolution vs Theory.jpg
 
So it sounds like there may be less of a difference once the camera has been calibrated.

I think so. I had dialed mine in to the surrounding environment before I got too far and did testing, but when I did the factory reset and applied the lastest firmware update, the image looked out of focus at default settings compared to what I had previously and I was thinking the firmware junked up the focus, but when I dialed it back in to the settings I had previously, the focus looked good across the distances.
 
To most people the speaker is the only difference, except for the different GUI, but most NOOB would prefer the newest GUI....I have both and unless I need the speaker, I prefer the image of the 4K-T and it has more options than the 4K-X once the firmware gets squared away...YMMV

Most don't use face detection because it is gimmicky...plus if the perp hides their face, then it doesn't trigger...

Second, the camera does "support" 30FPS....


View attachment 143608


But there is no need to run it at 30FPS. Even the 4K/X struggled with 30FPS.

Keep in mind that these type of cameras, although are spec'd and capable of these various parameters, real world testing by many of us shows if you try to run these units at higher FPS and higher bitrates than needed that you will max out the CPU in the unit and then it bugs out just long enough that you miss something or video is choppy or pixelated or you get lost signals. My car is rated for 6,000RPM redline, but I am not gonna run it in 3rd gear on the highway at 6,000RPM...same with these types of units - gotta keep them under rated capacity. Some may do better than others, but trying to use the rated "spec" of every option available is usually not going to work well, either with a car or a camera or NVR.

Look at all the threads where people came here with a jitter in the video or video dropping signal or IVS missing motion or the SD card doesn't overwrite and they were running 30FPS or higher and when people tell them to drop the FPS and they dropped the FPS to 15FPS the camera became stable and they could actual freeze frame the image to get a clean capture. The goal of these cameras are to capture a moving object, not capture smooth motion. When we see the news, are they showing the video or a freeze frame screen shot? Nobody cares if it isn't butter smooth...getting the features to make an ID is the important factor. As always, YMMV...

Further, these types of cameras are not GoPro or Hollywood type cameras that offer slow-mo capabilities and other features. They "offer" 30FPS and 60FPS to appease the general public that thinks that is what they need, but you will not find many of us here running more than 15 FPS; and movies are shot at 24 FPS, so anything above that is a waste of storage space for what these cameras are used for. If 24 FPS works for the big screen, I think 15 FPS is more than enough for phones and tablets and most monitors LOL. Many of my cameras are running at 12FPS.

In fact, many times if a CPU is maxing out, if it doesn't drop signal, then it will adhere to the FPS but then slow the shutter down to try to not max the CPU or cut bitrate or be slow to detect an object, etc, which then produces a smooth blurry image..that is the video my neighbor gets who insists on running 60FPS. He gets smooth walking people watching the video real time, but you can't freeze frame it cause every frame is a blur, meanwhile my 12FPS gets the clean freeze frame. Shutter speed is more important the FPS. We both run the same shutter speed by the way, but his camera CPU is maxing out and something gotta give when you push it that hard.

Sure 30FPS can provide a smoother video but no police officer has said "wow that person really is running smooth". They want the ability to freeze frame and get a clean image. So be it if the video is a little choppy....and at 10-15FPS it won't be appreciable. My neighbor runs his at 30FPS, so the person or car goes by looking smooth, but it is a blur when trying to freeze frame it because the camera can't keep up. Meanwhile my camera at 15FPS with the proper shutter speed gets the clean shots.


So a few of my cams have a system status screen, and they call it a CPU, so that is why I am calling it a CPU, but this shows this camera running at 8192 bitrate, H264, CBR, and 12 FPS is hitting the camera processor at 47% and jumps to 70% with motion. If I up the camera to 30 FPS, the usage is in the high 90% range, but then with motion, it maxes out and would get unstable.

Or if I keep it at 12 FPS and use the camera motion detection, the CPU in the camera goes to 60% idle.

This would be nice if all cams had this so we could see how our settings impact the performance of the camera. I think running these cams close to capacity is probably harder to overcome than a computer spike at 100% CPU.

At the end of the day, if the consumer wants cameras that can do 30FPS, they will not look at any cameras that do not have that rated spec, so some companies will throw that in to appease the person looking for that. Unfortunately, that is marketing. It takes someone with experience in the industry to know for sure if it is really capable of what marketing says.

And in a few scenarios maybe you can squeak 30FPS out of these cameras - maybe without using IVS or motion detection and just watching a simple feed. But maybe when two users log in, it can't handle it for example. The more features you use, the less likely it will work as one expects.

And if the complaints get bad enough, we have seen firmware updates to popular models that do just that - cut FPS or some other feature...

View attachment 143609

Thank you for the thorough explanation;

As long as the gui works properly, I don't mind what it looks like, The day and night schedule was a nice addition.


My 4k-t does not support 30fps and only supports 25fps.

I know I don't need 30 frames per second, but it's nice to know it's available, especially when it's advertised as such.

Why do they advertise 30 fps and high bitrates if they aren't capable of doing so? Didn't wildcat do a review with those settings? It's like having a car that can go 200 mph but can only go 100 mph because it will overheat if you go any faster LOL.


Nvidia pulled a similar marketing ruse with their gpu by naming them both 4080, one with 12 GB and the other with 16 GB, but they neglected to mention that both gpu used different chips, which sparked outrage in the community and forced Nvidia to change the name and lower the price. Andy has pulled a similar ruse with his 4K-x and 4K-t models, both of which have completely different internal components that use a different chip and lens, its misleading imo and it should'nt happen.

It would be interesting to have a more detailed comparison of the camera's performance with the real-world settings you recommend.
 
Take it off of PAL, change to NTSC, and it will support 30fps.
Any of the AI enabled Dahua cams I've reviewed only allow you to use Face Detection or Object Detection, one or the other, not both at the same time.
Be sure you have properly tuned the camera for "your" scene, using manual settings. Any camera left on auto for exposure and shutter, will not perform to its full potential.
Thank you; it worked. I can now set 30 fps and manually set the camera to my scene.