5v Passive POE not working...can't figure it out.

J

jtupnsmoke

n3wb
May 31, 2016
22
1
Hi all,

I have searched near and far and can't understand where my issue is. Here's what I'm trying to do:
Power a 5v DLINK DCS-930L via passive POE. I am using a simple passive splitter at both ends. Cable type is 50ft Cat6.

Here's the issue, power is not even reaching the switch directly off the splitter. I have tried multiple power supplies and also multiple splitters as I returned the original thinking it might be bad. The power supplies i have been trying have been 5v,8.5v,and 9v. Do these things require a minimum voltage to begin working?

This is the splitter im using. http://www.amazon.com/HCP05-Passive...&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00

Thanks,
Jeremy
 
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"power is not even reaching the switch directly off the splitter."

please clarify. the ethernet switch should not be involved in this setup...
 
5v is probably dropping too much voltage, try with a shorter cable.
 
OP said he tried higher voltage supplies, which should eliminate voltage drop as the issue.
I suspect a mis-config somehow.
 
pozzello said:
"power is not even reaching the switch directly off the splitter."

please clarify. the ethernet switch should not be involved in this setup...
Click to expand...

I have a switch dedicated to my cameras. The port on the switch doesn't light up when the ethernet is plugged in like it does with the other cameras.
 
i suspect your cable. try another. if that works, then either re-crimp or replace your current run.
 
jtupnsmoke said:
Hi all,

I have searched near and far and can't understand where my issue is. Here's what I'm trying to do:
Power a 5v DLINK DCS-930L via passive POE. I am using a simple passive splitter at both ends. Cable type is 50ft Cat6.

Here's the issue, power is not even reaching the switch directly off the splitter. I have tried multiple power supplies and also multiple splitters as I returned the original thinking it might be bad. The power supplies i have been trying have been 5v,8.5v,and 9v. Do these things require a minimum voltage to begin working?

This is the splitter im using. http://www.amazon.com/HCP05-Passive...&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00

Thanks,
Jeremy
Click to expand...
Real 802.3af PoE is MUCH more reliable. You can get injectors and splitters that support 802.3af.

Either you the voltage drop due to length of the cable is too much or you terminated the cable wrong. Get a multimeter and measure the voltage on at the output with no load and with the camera connected. 5VDC 1A is going to be pretty hard to deliver via passive PoE, it would be easier if the camera took a higher input voltage. The cable length and quality is a big factor too, cca crap, solid/stranded, awg, etc.

Just get the kit version of this: http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-PO...TF8&qid=1464719333&sr=8-6&keywords=802.3af+5v
 
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pozzello said:
i suspect your cable. try another. if that works, then either re-crimp or replace your current run.
Click to expand...

I will try that when I get home...not sure if it matters, but I'm using a flat cat6 so I can hide it in my soffit easily. I didn't think about it being the ethernet because it doesn't appear to even be interacting with the switch correctly.
 
tangent said:
Real 802.3af PoE is MUCH more reliable. You can get injectors and splitters that support 802.3af.

Either you the voltage drop due to length of the cable is too much or you terminated the cable wrong. Get a multimeter and measure the voltage on at the output with no load and with the camera connected. 5VDC 1A is going to be pretty hard to deliver via passive PoE, it would be easier if the camera took a higher input voltage. The cable quality is a big factor too, cca crap, solid/stranded, awg, etc.

Just get the kit version of this: http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-PO...TF8&qid=1464719333&sr=8-6&keywords=802.3af+5v
Click to expand...

I understand that. I ran my foscam this way(which is 5v also) and used a 48v input with 5 volt regulator on the camera end.

This dlink is a spare I was trying to get working on the cheap. I thought these injector/splitters would work for that,but not sure now. Worst case scenario I totally diy and splice the power into the ethernet itself and use it as a power cord extender. Was just hoping these splitters would save me the time/mess of it.
 
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jtupnsmoke said:
I understand that. I ran my foscam this way(which is 5v also) and used a 48v input with 5 volt regulator on the camera end.

This dlink is a spare I was trying to get working on the cheap. I thought these injector/splitters would work for that,but not sure now. Worst case scenario I totally diy and splice the power into the ethernet itself and use it as a power cord extender. Was just hoping these splitters would save me the time/mess of it.
Click to expand...
Better yet, save your money and buy somthing like this: http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Orig...ity-cctv-Dome-Camera-Support/32466033419.html
 
tangent said:
Real 802.3af PoE is MUCH more reliable. You can get injectors and splitters that support 802.3af.

Either you the voltage drop due to length of the cable is too much or you terminated the cable wrong. Get a multimeter and measure the voltage on at the output with no load and with the camera connected. 5VDC 1A is going to be pretty hard to deliver via passive PoE, it would be easier if the camera took a higher input voltage. The cable length and quality is a big factor too, cca crap, solid/stranded, awg, etc.

Just get the kit version of this: http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-PO...TF8&qid=1464719333&sr=8-6&keywords=802.3af+5v
Click to expand...



I have this, works perfectly.
 
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My point was you'd be better off putting the $20 a real injector/splitter would cost into a much better camera. Most people on this forum have written off foscam and dlink for the junk that they are.

If you had a boat you barely fit in with 20 holes that had been plugged would you rather keep plugging the holes when it leaks and fixing the bilge pump or replace it if for the same price you could buy a small yacht** that worked perfectly...

** a no name Chinese made yacht
 
Last edited by a moderator:
tangent said:
My point was you'd be better off putting the $20 real a real injector/splitter would cost into a much better camera. Most people on this forum have written off foscam and dlink for the junk that they are.

If you had a boat you barely fit in with 20 holes that had been plugged would you rather keep plugging the holes when it leaks and fixing the bilge pump or replace it if for the same price you could buy a small yacht that worked perfectly...
Click to expand...

Believe me, I get the junk they are, but at this point I'm invested in what I have. I know better now with future cameras, but may as well try and get these others doing something. I originally only got the DLINK to catch a neighbors dog peeing in my garage, but as with all my hobbies, it exploded into having to have a camera everywhere. Now I'm stuck with these semi-useless cameras, so just trying to get what I can out of them.
 
jtupnsmoke said:
Now I'm stuck with these semi-useless cameras, so just trying to get what I can out of them.
Click to expand...
Some schmuck on ebay would probably buy them.

If you get a good PoE switch you'll be able to use it in the future with new cameras.

As far as doing this passively, figure out if your adapters are using 1 pair of wires or 2. Check the length of the cable, shorten it if possible and measure the actual voltage at the camera with a load and no load.
 
tangent said:
Some schmuck on ebay would probably buy them.

If you get a good PoE switch you'll be able to use it in the future with new cameras.

As far as doing this passively, figure out if your adapters are using 1 pair of wires or 2. Check the length of the cable, shorten it if possible and measure the actual voltage at the camera with a load and no load.
Click to expand...

I'm going to pull the camera down and take it to my switch to do any further troubleshooting. Should eliminate the cable length question. Before pulling it down im going to put a 12v power supply on it and see if that helps. According to an online voltage drop calculator, getting 5v across 50ft of cable will require around 11 or 12 volts. As everything is in my attic, might have to wait for the sun to go down so I don't melt while up there.
 
After some testing, heres what I found.

Ethernet port on switch showed no sign of life with 12v and 16v power supplies.

I pulled the camera down and brought everything inside. With a 5 ft ethernet between the injector/splitter using the stock 5v power supply, the thing powers up. Go figure. Only thing I know now is that the camera and splitters still work, but no idea how to get it working with a 50ft cable in between them.
 
jtupnsmoke said:
After some testing, heres what I found.

Ethernet port on switch showed no sign of life with 12v and 16v power supplies.

I pulled the camera down and brought everything inside. With a 5 ft ethernet between the injector/splitter using the stock 5v power supply, the thing powers up. Go figure. Only thing I know now is that the camera and splitters still work, but no idea how to get it working with a 50ft cable in between them.
Click to expand...
Are you using a proper 568 standard?
 
Ive never used one of those flat cables for anything PoE, and I've never tried to send 5vdc more than a couple feet over a 22awg wire.. so YMMV, as apparently it is.
 
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