IPC-HFW3549T1P-AS-PV new firmware concerns

D

Delosk8

n3wb
Nov 7, 2021
6
0
Bournemouth
Hi all,

I have bought an IPC-HFW3549T1P-AS-PV Dahua IP camera and that's the first and only one I have. Unfortunately, overwrite function for micro sd card doesn't work and I cannot set up my smtp Gmail account either. I thought that a firmware upgrade could help me with that and maybe add some new IA functions I have seen on YT.
When I try to check for the new firmware from htttp camera settings the I get a message saying there is no new version available. Current version is 2.800.00AD000.0.R, Build Date: 2020-07-29 and I cannot find anything newer on Dahua Wiki or other more official websites, but... I have found some newer firmware available from their official polish distributor here : Inside of the archive, there are another two archives DH_IPC-HX5XXX-Volt_MultiLang_NP_Stream3_V2.820.0000000.2.R.210403.zip and DH_IPC-HX5XXX-Volt_MultiLang_PN_Stream3_V2.820.0000000.2.R.210403.zip
Should I give one of them a go? Can I backup my current firmware just in case it isn't the correct firmware for my cam?
 
The first obvious question is are you using Internet Explorer to set this camera up? Not Edge, not Chrome with the IE tab, but plain ole explorer that is baked into Win10 - you do not need to download it. Simply go to the search bar and type in Explorer and it will come up. Most of these cameras firmware are based on Explorer, and some functionality is lost using another browser.

The 2nd obvious question is did you set it up to overwrite? Maybe you can't see this option because you did not use Explorer.


1636909751546.png

No you cannot backup your current firmware. I have that camera and the firmware updates do not add additional AI.

Further, it is best to obtain any firmware updates from the vendor you purchased it from so that you do not run into issues. Any firmware you find here or elsewhere is obviously proceed at your own risk. We have many threads here where someone tried an update with a firmware they found on the internet and bricked their unit.

Many units being sold are Chinese hacked units that will either brick or go into Chinese upon updating. Some vendors will be upfront and tell consumers that as part of their website, but many do not or the consumer forgets...here is one such example....

1636909862897.png
 
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hi,
Thanks for quick reply. I have been using the edge browser and yes I have got that option ticked, but it doesn’t work. Card get full and do not overwrite :/
I’ll ask reseller if they can help then.
Cheers
 
Try Explorer. We have seen many times things look right in Edge, but it doesn't work.

Might be your problem, might not be. But many things have been solved by using Explorer.

And if that doesn't work, try a factory reset. Sometimes there are some bugs that creep in that a reset fixes.
 
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I kinda sorted some of the issues and I think IE was the right solution. Thanks again.

I’m facing one more complex issue because my camera is mounted close to the boiler exhaust pipe it does record vapour quite a lot. I though if I have Smart Motion Detection(human) and IVS (trigger line) set that it would only record people crossing the line. Is there any way to make camera not trigger itself when the vapour gets in it’s way?


On the top of that I receive e-mails about alarm events three times a minute:

Alarm Event: Intensity Change end
Alarm Input Channel: 1
Alarm Stop Time(D/M/Y H:M:S): 17/11/2021 13:08:58
Alarm Device Name: 6J0D6A7PAGC1***
Alarm Name:
IP Address: 192.168.1.87

Alarm Event: Intensity Change
Alarm Input Channel: 1
Alarm Start Time(D/M/Y H:M:S): 17/11/2021 13:09:44
Alarm Device Name: 6J0D6A7PAGC1***
Alarm Name:
IP Address: 192.168.1.87


Alarm Input Channel: 1
Alarm Stop Time(D/M/Y H:M:S): 17/11/2021 13:09:50
Alarm Device Name: 6J0D6A7PAGC1***
Alarm Name:
IP Address: 192.168.1.87

I unclicked „e-mail option” in Event->motion video, but keep receiving those ones. That means probably that my sc card is going to get full in a day or two as well.
what this type of alarm mean?
 
Yep, IE fixes a lot of things.

If you use IVS, then turn off SMD and MD. It is one or the other. SMD is supposed to eliminate false triggers of thing like shadows, leaves blowing, but pick up other things. MD is going to pick up anything moving. IVS is supposed to only pick up human or vehicle. So when you have more than one selected, you start to get other things. If all you want is human, try just IVS.

Turn off all alarms of other features.
 
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B22A295D-A840-49D1-BCEF-8AD69D367D79.jpeg6333E45B-AF47-4E5B-8C8C-91017CAAAB07.jpeg
I didn't go too far to be completely honest. Even thinking about going back to SMD and just buying bigger storage to keep all those random events recorded for a while longer (reducing false alarms by mounting fume exhaust extension mentioned by alastairstevenson- thanks again ).
Probably my camera is too high (about 10ft) and at night IVS algorithm doesn't work very well. What else should I try? Different settings or just install PIR halogen underneath?
The main issue I'm facing is that the camera won't pick a human with a hat or hoodie. If you take it off it works like a charm. Please see the videos below (sorry for the quality, but it is of my phone app):
- with the hat - no flashing lights and no event
- with no hat - works like a charm

Please see my settings below:
Video settings.pngVD and SMD off.pngsmart plan IVS.pngIVS settings.jpgconditions combined.png2 x IVS.png

any ideas more than welcome ;)

UPDATE: Video links updated
 
Last edited:
Your videos are not available.

But from the settings, I can tell the following:

Switch to H265 and bitrate of 8192 for starters and that should improve detection.

Turn off Smart Codec.

Match FPS and iframes.

Draw a zig zag trip wire. You have to think 3-dimensional and not an actual trip wire on the ground LOL.

Make the intrusion box bigger as well - at least up to top of fence.

Lower camera would be better.

I suspect you probably need more light or IR.

You are running it at almost all default settings, and a crazy slow shutter speed. Unless you have white light, you will need IR in this location.

ou need to dial the camera in to your field of view. Staying on auto/default will never result in acceptable performance, especially at night. Ghost and blur is common with auto/default settings.

In my opinion, shutter (exposure) and gain are the two most important and then base the others off of it. Shutter is more important than FPS. It is the shutter speed that prevents motion blur, not FPS. 15 FPS is more than enough for surveillance cameras as we are not producing Hollywood movies. Match iframes to FPS. 15FPS is all that is usually needed.

Many people do not realize there is manual shutter that lets you adjust shutter and gain and a shutter priority that only lets you adjust shutter speed but not gain. The higher the gain, the bigger the noise and see-through ghosting start to appear because the noise is amplified. Most people select shutter priority and run a faster shutter than they should because it is likely being done at 100 gain, so it is actually defeating their purpose of a faster shutter.

But first, run H264, smart codec off, CBR, and 8192 bitrate to start.

Go into shutter settings and change to manual shutter and start with custom shutter as ms and change to 0-8.3ms and gain 0-50 (night) and 0-30 (day)for starters. Auto could have a shutter speed of 100ms or more with a gain at 100 and shutter priority could result in gain up at 100 which will contribute to significant ghosting and that blinding white you will get from the infrared.

Now what you will notice immediately at night is that your image gets A LOT darker. That faster the shutter, the more light that is needed. But it is a balance. The nice bright night image results in Casper during motion LOL. What do we want, a nice static image or a clean image when there is motion introduced to the scene?

So if it is too dark, then start adding ms to the time. Go to 10ms, 12ms, etc. until you find what you feel is acceptable as an image. Then have someone walk around and see if you can get a clean shot. Try not to go above 16.67ms (but certainly not above 30ms) as that tends to be the point where blur starts to occur. Conversely, if it is still bright, then drop down in time to get a faster shutter.

You can also adjust brightness and contrast to improve the image.

You can also add some gain to brighten the image - but the higher the gain, the more ghosting you get. Some cameras can go to 70 or so before it is an issue and some can't go over 50.

But adjusting those two settings will have the biggest impact. The next one is noise reduction. Want to keep that as low as possible. Depending on the amount of light you have, you might be able to get down to 40 or so at night (again camera dependent) and 20-30 during the day, but take it as low as you can before it gets too noisy. Again this one is a balance as well. Too smooth and no noise can result in soft images and contribute to blur.

Do not use backlight features until you have exhausted every other parameter setting. And if you do have to use backlight, take it down as low as possible.

After every setting adjustment, have someone walk around outside and see if you can freeze-frame to get a clean image. If not, keep changing until you do. Clean motion pictures are what we are after, not a clean static image.
 
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It is unfortunate that this model doesn't have the global setup to calibrate it to your field of view. That would help with human detection tremendously.
 
Such a great tutorial! Thank you so much!
The key was obviously thinking 3D ;) and understand that clear and bright but grainy picture isn't good for the camera even it looked fine for me. I don't have to use any backlight mode to make the camera actually see people. Even got caught with my hoodie tonight :D
I might still fit some PIR halogen underneath later on.
 
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