Dahua has a new water proof junction box PFA130-E / PFA130E for Turrets ( PFA137, PFA139 )

@Arjun can share us some pics here for your installing with PFA130-E? Anyone can share the pics here for top 3 guys, i can send a free PFA130-E for him.
 
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Was going to post pictures with the post-install, but this mount deserves more sales---it's clearly better than the PFA137 and I'm sure this will be the default template for all of Dahua's mounts in the near future.

Mount appears solidly built, identical in size to the PFA137 mount (but can hold up more weight than the PFA137 mount according to Dahua's specifications)
However, what sets this mount apart is that it appears compatible with multiple Dahua models, not only the beloved 2MP Starlight Varifocal Turret. Apparently, it can work with the fixed-lens models as well.

However, keep in mind the IPC-HDW5231R-ZE and IPC-HDW5231R-Z perfectly complements this mount because it visually covers the screws (on the front cover) which secure to the back mount. Any smaller model than the varifocal turrets will expose the three fasteners as shown in one of the pictures below.

Intended for a more effective install against the elements (especially when it comes to water ingress)
The front cover doesn't fall off, it is kept attached to the mount through galvanized steel wire

Any camera which is compatible with PFA137 and PFA139 mounts will be compatible with this PFA130E mount. Varifocal Turrets will provide cleaner install with this mount, whereas fixed-lens Turrets will fit as well --- but, cover screws will be visible (as mount is bigger than fixed-lens turret itself). Boils down to personal preference and size of conduit as well as availability of other hardware being used. I'd personally prefer using this mount with the varifocal turret only.

NOTE: PFA137 AND PFA139 USES 1/2" KO'S WHEREAS PFA130E USES LARGER KO'S (Thanks to @awsum140 for pointing this out)

Cheers :)



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@Arjun can share us some pics here for your installing with PFA130-E? Anyone can share the pics here for top 3 guys, i can send a free PFA130-E for him.
 
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What size are the hubs, KO's, in these? 1/2 or 3/4?
 
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Great question @awsum140
I believe the knockouts are 1"
You'll want to purchase 3/4" to 1/2" bushings in case you're using 1/2" conduit (on another note, 1" knockouts are meant to accept 3/4" conduit)
I can't use 1/2" compression fittings on this mount (although using a reducer should enable me to make the necessary modification for compatibility)
You would be able to use 1/2" compression fittings with a PFA139 mount as the PFA139 and PFA137 use 1/2" knockouts
 

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1" hubs are kind of big to say the least. A 3/4" conduit, or fitting, will allow an RJ45 to pass through, easily, which makes that size very convenient. A 1x3/4 reducing bushing could be used, I guess, but another potential leak point happens with the extra threads involved. Incidentally, from a technical standpoint a "hub" is a threaded KO. From the photos they are hubs.

Another note....a 3/4" hub has an outside diameter of about an inch while a 1/2" hub has a diameter of about 3/4". I should have looked at that other photo with the ruler, duhhhhh.
 
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I think any mount in general will not be able to keep all water out. This mount is has an IP66 rating, whereas higher ratings do exist. Using a silicon paste or any other weatherproofing method should aid / supplement in preventing water ingress.

1" hubs are kind of big to say the least. A 3/4" conduit, or fitting, will allow an RJ45 to pass through, easily, which makes that size very convenient. A 1x3/4 reducing bushing could be used, I guess, but another potential leak point happens with the extra threads involved. Incidentally, from a technical standpoint a "hub" is a threaded KO. From the photos they are hubs.
 
I don't know. I have two cameras mounted on trees, well exposed to weather, with 4" round electrical boxes. Granted the liquidtite comes in from the bottom, but they are totally dry inside, or were the last time I checked after almost a year out there. No other means was used to make them watertight, just the standard hub plugs and gasket for the cover.
 
@Arjun can share us some pics here for your installing with PFA130-E? Anyone can share the pics here for top 3 guys, i can send a free PFA130-E for him.

I have some installed inside which is the older model without the seal (PFA136), while the exterior gets the new weatherproof PFA130-E and PFA121.

Shipping from Andy from EMPIRETECANDY was surprisingly quick from China since I placed an order with him right when they were released. It took about 11 days from order to arrive to my doorstep in CA, quickest order from China ever.

See pictures below:

inside.jpg outside 2.jpg outside1.jpg
 
The front cover doesn't fall off, it is kept attached to the mount through galvanized steel wire.
Which could keep a mounted but unplugged cam from hitting the ground with MY fumble fingers. And speaking of fumbling, it also appears the cover screws are semi-captive with elastic washers...I can't count the times I've dropped those screws, they hit the ground and you spend 10 minutes finding the little bastards...it's like they have legs, AI and do NOT want to do their job! :lol:

EDIT: I suppose those rubbery, clear washers are supplied to assist with water intrusion and sit as pictured on end of cover screw AFTER being inserted through cover but IMO I still appreciate them holding those damn screws!

Nice mount and VERY nice info. Thanks, @Arjun !
 
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The junction box is only to keep the connectors dry right?

The turret 5831r-ze is waterproof enough to mount it against a wall without junction box right?

The new pfa130e is mainly for the bullet cams i think? But the turrets wil also fit. Only the 122mm wil cover the screws of the junctionbox cover.
 
If you mount the camera without the junction box you will need a 3/4” inch hole in the wall to fit the waterproof connection assembly through it.

Using the junction box Allows for the waterproof connection to send me to fit inside of it, and only requires you to drill a 3/8” hole in your wall/ceiling/soffit for category cable to pass through prior to termination.


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The junction box is only to keep the connectors dry right?

The turret 5831r-ze is waterproof enough to mount it against a wall without junction box right?

The new pfa130e is mainly for the bullet cams i think? But the turrets wil also fit. Only the 122mm wil cover the screws of the junctionbox cover.
Can suits for these, you can check, this suits for most turrets and very small rate of bullet cams.
upload_2018-3-22_0-2-42.png
upload_2018-3-22_0-2-56.png
upload_2018-3-22_0-3-12.png
 
Can suits for these, you can check, this suits for most turrets and very small rate of bullet cams.
View attachment 27772
View attachment 27773
View attachment 27774

Thanks.
I ordered the pfa137. I can use it for the turret and the dome sd22404t.
The turret looks waterproof enough. I understand that if you mount it to a wall, with the pfa137, water can come in the junctionbox via the eyeball. The new pfa130e is closed on 2 sides, only the cat cable comes out of the black center hole.

How waterproof is the top of the ptz dome? Can water enter the dome via the cable entry? I have seen some pictures and it doesn't look as tight like the turret cable entry?

The dahua website isn't very accurate about the mounts... the chart says wallmount pfb203w for the turret, I think the dome also fits on this mount. But the dahua chart says use pfb202w. Very strange. Hope the dome fits also on the 203 because thats the one i ordered for the 5831r-ze. Maybe its only a problem with the wifi model, then the antenne comes on the front... I think thats the difference between 202 and 203.

Waiting for my orders to arrive :)
From @EMPIRETECANDY.
 
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Ok I'm going to come clean and say I have a very embarrassing question to ask, so I'm just going to come out with it! :embarrassed:


I bought 4 of these PFA130-E junction boxes for my Dahua cameras. All of them are being installed under soffits so the cable is going to be coming down vertically into the back of junction box from above....like this

hole.jpg


However when I look at the back of the junction box, the foam coating has me confused.


Is it ok to cut a slit in it and push the cat 6 cable into the centre or will that mess up any water protection? As far as I can see, the foam padding doesn't look like much of a water protector anyway.....but I wanted to ask here before I did something stupid...

dahua.jpg


Thanks for any info...and yes you may all laugh now! :lol::winktongue:
 
Is it ok to cut a slit in it and push the cat 6 cable into the centre or will that mess up any water protection? As far as I can see, the foam padding doesn't look like much of a water protector anyway.....but I wanted to ask here before I did something stupid...

I agree, that foam isn't all that great, it's thin and will likely turn to dust after a couple of years of exposure to even indirect sunlight and ozone in the air. I'd rip it off, clean the adhesive residue off really well (scrape with knife, then sandpaper), hold up the box temporarily to where it's going to be mounted to, insure all holes align properly, mark with a Sharpie very small in 3 places on it (like 120 degrees apart around the circular box) and where it touches the soffit so you can replace it EXACTLY where it should go, run a 1/4" thick bead of outdoor-rated silicone sealant around the hole in the soffit and in the box, put the cable into the box, replace the box, align carefully before touching sealant so as to minimize deforming it then mount and screw it to the soffit.

I think it will be fine since it's under a roof eave and won't get direct rain, the silicone sealant should prevent and moisture from entering the box or soffit that gets blown up by the wind.
 
I'd use mineral spirits to remove any glue residue. If you want a rubbery seal, get an old inner tube and cut one to fit. It might take more than one to get enough thickness, but I'll bet it would last a long time. A thin coat of silicone would make them pretty much water tight. Honestly, on a soffit I wouldn't worry too much about water encroachment but would use dielectric grease on the RJ and power connector, if you're using separate power.
 
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@awsum140
@TonyR

Thanks for the reply, I think I'm going to do something like this. I was just surprised that seeing as so many people had bought these with their camera that no one else was discussing what they were doing to mount them!

Cheers.
 
There is a viable alternative that requires no holes in the soffit, a little late in your case though. I mount them using flat aluminum bar, drilled as necessary and painted to match, that goes between the "lips" of the soffit. The cable gets tucked behind the bar and into a groove of the soffit and once verything is positioned, I secure the bar with a little silicone for adhesive. This one is for a 4231. The bar is 1/8" aluminum and the wings to accommodate the round base are pop riveted using a piece of flashing on the back side.

Front_complete.jpg
 
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