Dahua has a new water proof junction box PFA130-E / PFA130E for Turrets ( PFA137, PFA139 )

Cheers. I assume the bung issue was just a manufacturing error, as there was a “line” visible across it, but it was solid. Thought I’d highlight this, as it’s those little things that drive you crazy when trying to learn as you go! With the stainless cable, I had been wondering if it were possible to “preassemble” more if the setup, but I don’t think so. I can see, however, that it may provide some insurance against dropping the camera!

Would anyone bother to run a bead of silicon around the edge of the base and the surface its mounted to?
 
  • Like
Reactions: 204installs
Depends on the surface. The foam gasket on the back of junction box should work fine on a smooth surface. If its a rough surface such as brick with mortar line behind it, yes.
 
  • Like
Reactions: mat-with-one-t
Thanks for asking 1st! Only if pics are not claimed as your own (perhaps a simple credit like “Example of installed product” or something. Cheers! Mat
 
I just received two of these boxes. They seem to be high quality and the variety of bolt holes should fit most cameras. It supports 3/4" conduit fittings. The only real engineering oversight is only two conduit
holes instead of four. It may not matter to most but I could see how someone may want to run a line of cameras with cables passing through. It fits my Amcrest IP8M-T2669EW-AI perfectly. I tried to use some 4" weatherproof electrical boxes but it just does not adapt well and is not water tight.
 
I agree this definitely needs four holes

I just received two of these boxes. They seem to be high quality and the variety of bolt holes should fit most cameras. It supports 3/4" conduit fittings. The only real engineering oversight is only two conduit
holes instead of four. It may not matter to most but I could see how someone may want to run a line of cameras with cables passing through. It fits my Amcrest IP8M-T2669EW-AI perfectly. I tried to use some 4" weatherproof electrical boxes but it just does not adapt well and is not water tight.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Ethernaught
How would you guys handle this? I didn't see anything in the instructions for use of the other two holes...I have all exterior wires, nothing is coming through the wall itself. When you look at the Foscam mount, they have a waterproof component that seals the hole. I don't see anything like that here, yet we have two other potential outlets...thanks
View attachment 2.jpg
 
Can get a Gland that is what I do. Looks like you might have 3/4 threads there. Most hardware places should have them any extra holes the box usually comes with the plugscapture6.jpg
 
As an Amazon Associate IPCamTalk earns from qualifying purchases.
It won't take any room up at all. Just don't stuff 3 feet of wire in there, usually a foot is plenty if you had to put a new end on in the future then you can have room to cut the RJ45 off and crimp a new end on
 
Got the 3/4" gland. It fits in the box perfectly, however the hole is nearly as large as the one that's already there. I feel like I'm missing something here...there are other size glands, but none large enough for an already-terminated RJ45 to pass through.
 
Take the gland apart and get the rubber plug out. Use a fresh razor knife and very carefully slit the rubber plug lengthways. Put it over the cable, pass the RJ45 through the connector body and reassemble the gland. If you want to be doubly sure a tiny day of silicon seal in/on the slit will help insure it stays water tight although the compression when tightened up should do that job easily.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Flintstone61
Got the 3/4" gland. It fits in the box perfectly, however the hole is nearly as large as the one that's already there. I feel like I'm missing something here...there are other size glands, but none large enough for an already-terminated RJ45 to pass through.

Once the cable has been passed through the gland, as you tighten the outside "nut" it compress the rubber piece inside the gland and closes off the opening. Being the gland is 3/4", if it does not create a seal around a small gauge wire, I usually insert a piece of closed cel foam before tightening the outside nut to take up any extra space. Anything malleable and weatherproof will work in lieu of the foam
 
There are different size holes and some have oblong slots. If you aim it down where the wire goes in from the bottom not much to worry about as long as there is a slight drip loop so water won't follow the wire. Other suggestions above will also work.
 
  • Like
Reactions: sebastiantombs
You could also buy a 3/4 to 1/2 reducing bushing and then use a 1/2" gland for a tighter compression fit around your wire. Use pipe dope/tape on the threads of bushing.
IMG_8096.JPG
 
  • Like
Reactions: ron351
Thanks for the suggestions! I'll try giving the closed cell foam above and then seal with silicone. I wasn't able to create a drip loop based on where the wiring is, although that would have been awesome.
 
  • Like
Reactions: ron351
I realize this is an old thread, but I just purchased 2 of these boxes and neither has screws to attach the camera mount to the cover.
I've tried 6/32 standard bolts and they're too small, 8/32 are too big, and metric M4 doesn't fit either.
Anyone know what size of bolt I need to attach the camera mount to the cover plate?
 
I realize this is an old thread, but I just purchased 2 of these boxes and neither has screws to attach the camera mount to the cover.
I've tried 6/32 standard bolts and they're too small, 8/32 are too big, and metric M4 doesn't fit either.
Anyone know what size of bolt I need to attach the camera mount to the cover plate?
Says M4 on the diagram
 

Attachments

  • capture3.jpg
    capture3.jpg
    59.6 KB · Views: 17
  • Like
Reactions: JDreaming
Its metric...But I just used self tappers. cuz my bolt pattern was diff.