Emergency Power/Storms/Prepping etc

Yeah, you're right on the money there, someone recently got a quote for $25K
 
Thanks guys.
 
Liquid cooled 1800RPM = Best
Liquid Cooled 3600PM = Better
Air Cooled 3600 = Good

Air cooled is less complex, but is of course cooled by air. Here, the air is hot as shit. Make of that what you will! The liquid cooled models also usually have higher ambient operating temps before being derated

I would go with the Kohler RCLA30 as Kohler is an objectively better brand than Generac. Generac and Cummins are no longer able to source the 2.4L engine they used in their liquid cooled gensets around that size. So now if you want an 1800RPM liquid cooled genset from Generac, you have to go all the way up to the 32kw XC series. Thats a 4.9L engine, very overkill. The Kohler RCLA30 is the perfect sweet spot for a house IMO

I totally agree with all of this, great advice @IReallyLikePizza2. I would just add few more important points to help others when looking. Liquid cooled engines are inherently more efficient by design. Some may be wondering what about air cooled 1800 RPM units? There are old gensets out there like that but pretty much all modern generators running at 1800 RPM are now liquid cooled. Also you want the smallest displacement motor that will fulfill your power needs again due to efficiency (there’s definitely more rotating mass on a 4.9L than a 2.2L motor which directly translates into fuel used even if the electrical load is exactly the same). This is also why you see all these tiny displacement turbo charged cars out now to improve fuel efficiency. Lastly you definitely want to know what your peak loading is when picking the right generator so often at least putting a power monitoring system on your panel for a few days can ensure you get the right size for your needs.
 
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Just got word that the 22kw and 27kw liquid cooled Generac's may be back soon, unsure the exact details
 
Liquid cooled 1800RPM = Best
Liquid Cooled 3600PM = Better
Air Cooled 3600 = Good

Air cooled is less complex, but is of course cooled by air. Here, the air is hot as shit. ...

Tell me how a larger engine running at HALF the RPM, and liquid cooled, needs its oil changed sooner? Makes zero sense. I worry about the air cooled units with 200 hour oil changes. I would change mine at 100 if I had an air cooled.
...

I would not check the oil every 8, 12 or 24 hours honestly. Who wants to shut down their genset? Not me. They all have low oil shutoff and low oil pressure shutoff. Make sure its full and change the oil at the interval required. If I had an air cooled genset, maybe check at 100 hours, if you can.

It will shutoff before it damages the engine either way

Few things...

Better/worse/best/etc are highly subjective. Best could mean cheap where you can invest the saved money. Best could mean longest oil change intervals (OCI). Etc.

Water cooled engines are still only able to get the water down to ambient temp... which is "hot as shit" in your (and my) neck of the woods.

A larger engine is also usually more complex... more wear items... more frequent OCI. For example, Honda uses a belt to turn their overhead cams. Your 4 cylinder engine is not going to get away with that... so you've got timing gears/chain, lifters, pushrods, and rocker arms.. or maybe just a timing chain tied directly to an overhead cam. Or maybe it's hedging their bets on engine life.... especially on a more expensive engine.

For anecdotal comparison, all the "real" commercial mowers have air-cooled OCI of 200 hours. And they manage to easily last a few thousand hours of life in a REALLY hard environment.

It would be HIGHLY interesting to compare overall lifespan of a properly maintained air/water cooled engine. FWIW... I've seen plenty of dead water cooled with a broken cooling fan, defective thermostat, low coolant, plugged radiator, broken belt (taking out water pump and fan). I've seen dead air cooled with clogged cooling fins... much less to go wrong. The larger air cooled typically have an oil cooler also.

As your oil gets low it has less time for the oil cooler to remove heat. This speeds up oil degradation... something that a low oil sensor's not going to help at all. Hotter oil = thinner oil = poorer lubricating properties.

As I said before, unless you have a block and water heater, your generator leads a HARD life. Woken from sleep and tasked to perform more or less full load in 5-10 seconds. I'd spend my time worrying about something other than engine/oil life. Or if it's that important... install a bypass filter.
 
Got my Delta 2 and the 2 x 100w panels, very cool! Got my River 2 Pro a while ago now

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Putting together some pouches with every cable I might need, so I can just grab it and go

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Not for me. The deep well pump maxes out at 325'. My submersible is 600' down.

Out of interest, what kind of electrical cable is run down the 600 feet?
 
Question for you guys that have rain barrels, how do you deal with Mosquitos?
 
Question for you guys that have rain barrels, how do you deal with Mosquitos?

Not going to drink the water? Neighbor uses mosquito discs/pucks. Not sure of the brand name.

A friend uses a bubbler in the tank. Supposedly works for him... but I've never really investigated it. Suppose it disrupts the larva in some manner.
 
Out of interest, what kind of electrical cable is run down the 600 feet?
It's 3 conductors of 6 gauge copper. I can't guess how much it weighs (or costs these days). Besides the downward run, the wellhead is about 50' from the pumphouse, so the total run is about 650'. The pump manual says the 6 ga copper is good for 750' maximum. Aluminum wire cuts the maximum in half. The pump is 3 HP 240 volt single phase. It delivers about 8 GPM to a holding tank with no pressure. There's usually at least 500 gallons in the holding tank so we have a bit of reserve when the grid is down. Other systems in the area don't use a holding tank and use the submersible for pressure, using a 4 or 5 HP pump.
 
Putting together some pouches with every cable I might need, so I can just grab it and go

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i see on Amazon where they sell the EF Ecoflow models and the various panels, but the connecting cabling info is sparse and vague....is there an industry standard for Solar panel cabling to the power station units?
 
i see on Amazon where they sell the EF Ecoflow models and the various panels, but the connecting cabling info is sparse and vague....is there an industry standard for Solar panel cabling to the power station units?

Standard connectors on a real solar panel is a MC4. If you purchase a third party kit it could use almost anything.

The vast majority of people who have some kind of backup either purchase or make adapters of various types.

I have MC4, Anderson, XT90, Powercon, USB, etc all in various ampacity and types. Lots of people like to use the Anderson Power Pole type.
 
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It's 3 conductors of 6 gauge copper. I can't guess how much it weighs (or costs these days). Besides the downward run, the wellhead is about 50' from the pumphouse, so the total run is about 650'. The pump manual says the 6 ga copper is good for 750' maximum. Aluminum wire cuts the maximum in half. The pump is 3 HP 240 volt single phase. It delivers about 8 GPM to a holding tank with no pressure. There's usually at least 500 gallons in the holding tank so we have a bit of reserve when the grid is down. Other systems in the area don't use a holding tank and use the submersible for pressure, using a 4 or 5 HP pump.

Very cool, having always lived in the city this whole concept is completely foreign to me

Yeah, that wire would cost an arm and a leg now, I was looking at getting some SO cord for a project and almost fell out my chair looking at the prices

i see on Amazon where they sell the EF Ecoflow models and the various panels, but the connecting cabling info is sparse and vague....is there an industry standard for Solar panel cabling to the power station units?

Solar panels should all use MC4. If they don't, snip the ends off and crimp MC4

All Ecoflow and generally most mainstream batteries use XT60, so if you have an XT60 to MC4, you should be good

I agree the ways these solar panels all connect is a mess. MC4 was already the standard, so I'm not sure why all these companies started putting different connectors on things
 
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Discharging my Delta 2 and River 2 Pro to do some testing, pretty handy to just plug in the 2nd PSU's from a bunch of redundant PSU systems, no downtime!

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Need more juice!

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And topping off some 12v Lead Acid

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Both of the people I loaned generators to have been trying to get generators delivered and are running into issues.

Amazon was delivering one, and after 4 days of out for delivery, they "lost" it and refunded the money. The catch is they ordered it on sale, and its not on sale anymore...

The other person is getting it delivered UPS and they keep just skipping his house

Starting to think people are desperate, and workers are just snagging them wherever they can.

I went to Costco and 50% of the people in there were buying the non-inverter Firman they had on sale
 
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Not for me. The deep well pump maxes out at 325'. My submersible is 600' down.

Wow, that’s a really deep well. Ours is around 180ft and we have a large pressure tank but no separate holding tank at all. Forget the wiring, drilling that thing must have cost a fortune since they charge by the foot.
 
Wow, that’s a really deep well.
That's what I thought at first, but after 14 years where I am it's just "normal". Everyone for many miles around is at the same depth, it's just the ground elevation (3200 to 3500 feet), and where the water table is. Around 600' is where the well drillers expect to go, and it's all routine for them. The water table is slowly going down and every year a few wells near me get redrilled or the pump lowered. My pump hasn't needed anything yet except for new capacitors. I dread the day when it has to get pulled.