Got it, I will check on that thanks.
Anyone know the value of the resistor that it comes with? I cant find mine so just wondering.
Hello,
I am trying to put a relay into the doorbell circuit, using the hikvision (type) doorbell. I bought an Elk 930 doorbell detector and that "mostly" works. The problem is that when the doorbell is doing "other things" like connect to something, or I pull an image from it, or when it detects motion the power consumption is apparently high enough, to trigger the Elk 930.
So I am wondering if I'd need something similar as what the the Ring doorbell people came up with, a so called "Pro Power Kit" a small package that, from what I hear, has a power resistor in it, with some logic, that makes sure that most of the power is fed to the camera, and doesn't set of the chime, (and consequently the Elk 930).
Any ideas on how to do something similar? would the Ring "Pro Power Kit" possibly jst work with the hikvision doorbell?
If the hikvision doorbell actually loses the circuit completely, briefly, when the button is pushed, it possibly would work?
Any ideas, did anyone try something else/custom?
thanks,
Ron
Ok, found a video where he uses a Ring doorbell. It includes a "power kit" module, which is only a power resistor. He goes thru and shows the connection to a mechanical doorbell then switches to an electronic doorbell using a relay....
Not really keen on taking it all apart, but what about just using black permanent marker over the IR LED spots? Would that do the trick?Hey guys, I thought I'd share my experiences with this camera aswell.
Firstly I am not using the remote functions so cannot compare it to ring etc as I'm basically using it as a doorbell and IP camera attached to my Hikvision NVR
I have wired it up to the Byron 772 doorbell using a plug in 16vac model train transformer, the doorbell functions well although it's not the loudest chime.
The camera quality is great although as others have shown the IR at night is unusable, to solve this I've disconnected the IR Leads and now I have a great picture.
The unit itself was very easy to open, four screws hold the back on, I removed these and disconnected the header cables then removed the 3 silver and 2 black screws, uncliped the PCB and you'll see the IR LED headers on the board below, unplug these and reassemble the unit.
Hey guys, I thought I'd share my experiences with this camera aswell.
Firstly I am not using the remote functions so cannot compare it to ring etc as I'm basically using it as a doorbell and IP camera attached to my Hikvision NVR
I have wired it up to the Byron 772 doorbell using a plug in 16vac model train transformer, the doorbell functions well although it's not the loudest chime.
The camera quality is great although as others have shown the IR at night is unusable, to solve this I've disconnected the IR Leads and now I have a great picture.
The unit itself was very easy to open, four screws hold the back on, I removed these and disconnected the header cables then removed the 3 silver and 2 black screws, uncliped the PCB and you'll see the IR LED headers on the board below, unplug these and reassemble the unit.
Hi, I had that issue about a year ago and didn't find an answer other than only having the app on a single device. There has been an App update in the last month so a slight chance it's helped. My guess is that it's the doorbell that pushes a notification out to the Apps and there's no equivalent cancel signal pushed out if one device answers which to me might mean a firmware issue?Got one of the DS-KB6403 which is now 12v Powered it up and connected it without a chime so far. I have Hik-Connect installed on multiple devices and when it rings it rings on all which is good. However when I answer on one device the others still ring. Anyone help with this please?
I don't have an experience with an additional external IR illuminator, maybe it is interfering somehow?Hi all,
I'm interested in the IR disconnection as I've got that same ir bounce issue with mine.
I've followed this guide and pulled out the two connectors on the lower board which has stopped the IR but now I think it's also stopped the IR filter operation so at night even though the area is lit up by a external IR illuminator it doesn't help the doorbell as the filter is still in place. I seem to remember I had this problem on an old foscam camera I had looking through a window and that needed a resistor to mimic the IR LED load in order to get the filter going again but I've not seen that mentioned here/elsewhere?
Cheers, Matt.