No, that is not correct. Shutter speed does not affect depth of field.
IPC-HDW5442T-ZE New cam from Dahua :)
- Thread starter bickford
- Start date
I wanted to try and clarify DOF & shutter speeds for all here. First @ArnonZ, as @samplenhold mentioned, shutter speed does not affect Depth of Field (DOF). DOF is controlled primarily by aperture of the lens in this case fixed at f/1.8 throughout the range. Its then further influenced by distance to target and and your dialed in focal length (wide, partial zoom or full zoom in the case of the vari). An f/1.8 lens by design will give you a shallow DOF due to aperture of the lens. This shallow DOF (which results in reduced focal point distance) however is mitigated with a varifocal because if you need to have focus on objects further away, you just use the varifocal aspect (zoom) to move it closer, so you are not losing from having a more shallow DOF on this cam. On the flip side you are also gaining a bright lens with the f1.8.
With regards to shutter speed, the faster the shutter (use 1/250 as it was the example above) = the increase in ability to capture / stop motion without blur. Thats why when I advise people about this I mention 1/60 vs 1/100 vs 1/120 vs 1/250 for night, critically based on target speed (walking, slow jog, running/slow vehicles, faster moving vehicles) within the FOV you are capturing in and of course the lighting situation. The lighting situation will weigh heavily on your ability to select 1 of these speeds but in a number of cases can be mitigated with a simple addition of 1 x 60w or 1 x 100w bulb where applicable/available. At day of course you have the luxury of light so you can go as fast (1/4000 for example) as your location will allow but again base it on the speed of the targets you wish to capture. With that said, the faster the shutter speed, the darker the image (as less light is allowed in) therefore at night it is much more critical to pick the right shutter speed for your location and lighting situation. On the faster shutter speeds (again using 1/250 as an example) at night, as your image gets darker and assuming you are not adding more light to the location then you do have to be careful of adding in more sensor noise as the image becomes crushed. On the 5442 vari, we're lucky that this is already a bright lens at f/1.8 therefore light sensitive but even with that, pairing a shutter is critical to ensure smooth, crisp, blur free images within your install location.
This is also why I continue to advocate for people not using Auto. I'll jump onto many systems where they'll show me a wonderfully bright scene, however when you look at settings they are on auto and you can tell the camera has actually kicked down to 1/8 or 1/15 which as we know means Streaksville, which is a small town located next to Blur city
HTH
With regards to shutter speed, the faster the shutter (use 1/250 as it was the example above) = the increase in ability to capture / stop motion without blur. Thats why when I advise people about this I mention 1/60 vs 1/100 vs 1/120 vs 1/250 for night, critically based on target speed (walking, slow jog, running/slow vehicles, faster moving vehicles) within the FOV you are capturing in and of course the lighting situation. The lighting situation will weigh heavily on your ability to select 1 of these speeds but in a number of cases can be mitigated with a simple addition of 1 x 60w or 1 x 100w bulb where applicable/available. At day of course you have the luxury of light so you can go as fast (1/4000 for example) as your location will allow but again base it on the speed of the targets you wish to capture. With that said, the faster the shutter speed, the darker the image (as less light is allowed in) therefore at night it is much more critical to pick the right shutter speed for your location and lighting situation. On the faster shutter speeds (again using 1/250 as an example) at night, as your image gets darker and assuming you are not adding more light to the location then you do have to be careful of adding in more sensor noise as the image becomes crushed. On the 5442 vari, we're lucky that this is already a bright lens at f/1.8 therefore light sensitive but even with that, pairing a shutter is critical to ensure smooth, crisp, blur free images within your install location.
This is also why I continue to advocate for people not using Auto. I'll jump onto many systems where they'll show me a wonderfully bright scene, however when you look at settings they are on auto and you can tell the camera has actually kicked down to 1/8 or 1/15 which as we know means Streaksville, which is a small town located next to Blur city
HTH
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aristobrat
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which as we know means Streaksville, which is a small town located next to Blur city
As far a motion blur at night in color mode, we are at the mercy of the 60Hz flicker. If you choose 'Outdoor' for the anti-flicker option, any speed faster than 1/120 gives too much flicker. If you select 60Hz then 1/120 is the fastest it will go. Of course this is in the US where we are on 60Hz. I imagine the 50Hz folks have a similar issue.
Received one from Amazon today! It will probably be this weekend before I can start playing with it. My biggest decision is whether to replace an existing IPC-HDW5231R-ZE that covers my front yard and move the 5231 to cover the driveway, or do I just add the 5442 to the driveway. I'm leaning toward swapping out the existing camera first. It looks like I can use the existing mounting holes from the 5231 directly so it should be an easy swap.
I swapped out my 5231 varifocal turret for the 5442 6mm turret and used the same PFA130-E box no problem.
Shotglasspeppa
Getting the hang of it
How much smaller is the fixed lense version compared to this? I just received my camera today but I don't have a fixed version to compare to. Is the footprint of the fixed smaller?
spammenotinoz
Getting comfortable
Some samples from a novice;
VIDEO : 2688*1520, H.264H, CBR 8192Kb/S, Frame/iFrame 25/25, SVC (off)
DAY : AUTO (In manual 0~4,0~8.3, I get a lot of artifacting)
NIGHT : Shutter 0~10, Gain 0~75, IR: 14 (too much shadows from the trees to leave in Colour at night)
Issues:
a) I was not able to get BI to detect the ONIF triggers, will try when the firmware is released
b)When Exposure is set to MANUAL, there is artifacting (often ahead of the motion). Probably user error, but had to drop back to H.264H and 1:1 iFrames.
c) Night picture is a little white (potentially to much bleed from my other cams), but is providing great detail of objects in the background.
Distance from the CAM to the road is about 15 meters.
Note: Be aware that the Depth of field quite low, so may be an issue for some and will be worse in the Fixed focal length. Conversely if top night performance is required then consider the fixed focal length.
The horizontal and vertical FOV are amazing with the cam.
Clip1: Car at night
Clip2: Person walking at night
Clip3: Postman racing during the day
VIDEO : 2688*1520, H.264H, CBR 8192Kb/S, Frame/iFrame 25/25, SVC (off)
DAY : AUTO (In manual 0~4,0~8.3, I get a lot of artifacting)
NIGHT : Shutter 0~10, Gain 0~75, IR: 14 (too much shadows from the trees to leave in Colour at night)
Issues:
a) I was not able to get BI to detect the ONIF triggers, will try when the firmware is released
b)When Exposure is set to MANUAL, there is artifacting (often ahead of the motion). Probably user error, but had to drop back to H.264H and 1:1 iFrames.
c) Night picture is a little white (potentially to much bleed from my other cams), but is providing great detail of objects in the background.
Distance from the CAM to the road is about 15 meters.
Note: Be aware that the Depth of field quite low, so may be an issue for some and will be worse in the Fixed focal length. Conversely if top night performance is required then consider the fixed focal length.
The horizontal and vertical FOV are amazing with the cam.
Clip1: Car at night
Clip2: Person walking at night
Clip3: Postman racing during the day
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Diameters for each cam from Dahua datasheets for each cam:
HDW5231R-ZE= 4.80" (varifocal)
HDW5442TP-ZE= 4.80" (varifocal)
T5442TM-AS= 4.17" (fixed lens)
EMPIRETECANDY
IPCT Vendor
Here is the difference, the motorized lens is a little bigger than the fixed lens. Motorized lens always bigger than the fixed lens, bullet , turret same.
Thank you! Unfortunately they deliver it only to the Europe.
Does exist a bullet model analog of IPC T5442T ZE ?
EMPIRETECANDY
IPCT Vendor
Russia right now shipping is very slow, i am a little worry you can't get the shipment in 2 months, so i say can't ship to Russia, let me make a fast checking if have any way.
Hock3yTime
n3wb
Looks like the camera is on Amazon now: EmpireTech IPC-T5442T-ZE 4MP IR Vari-Focal
As an Amazon Associate IPCamTalk earns from qualifying purchases.
Are the IPC-HDW5442T-ZE and IPC-T5442TM-AS basically identical besides the varifocal vs fixed and what goes along with those differences (angle, size etc)?
Best I can tell the 5442T-ZE is 140DB WDR and the 5442TM-AS is 120? Unless that's a typo? Assuming that's correct I have to think that's a pretty big difference.
Best I can tell the 5442T-ZE is 140DB WDR and the 5442TM-AS is 120? Unless that's a typo? Assuming that's correct I have to think that's a pretty big difference.
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EMPIRETECANDY
IPCT Vendor
Yes, has shipped 20pcs to Amazon for fast orders, new stock will be 2-3weeks later.
As an Amazon Associate IPCamTalk earns from qualifying purchases.
Thanks for share, Clip 3, Postman/Person ran up on someone's lawn? Drives like my wife
lol did I say that?Could you explain me a difference between IPC-HFW5442E-ZE and IPC-HDW5442T-ZE ?
They have absolutely the same characteristics, but IPC-HFW5442E-ZE belongs to Pro Al Series, but IPC-HDW5442T-ZE to WizMind series.
First one is bullet camera and second one is dome camera.
They have absolutely the same characteristics, but IPC-HFW5442E-ZE belongs to Pro Al Series, but IPC-HDW5442T-ZE to WizMind series.
First one is bullet camera and second one is dome camera.