IPC-HFW5231E-Z12 LPR from 137 feet

Yep, if the camera is working for your needs, no need to update! It tends to fix something you were not using and introduces an error on something you were using.

The focus issue is likely a result of the sunrise/sunset utility not working.

Until I went to that, I would just go into the schedule in the camera GUI several times a year and adjust it there.
 
  • Like
Reactions: samplenhold
Need help for my night settings

Video -
H.265
Smart Codec OFF
1920x1080
30 FPS
CBR
6144 Kbps
Iframe 30

Conditions -

Picture

Brightness - 48
Contrast - 52
Sharpness - 60
Gamma - 44

Exposure

Anti-flicker - Outdoor
Mode - Manual
Shutter - 1/500
gain - 5-40
Iris - 46
Exp. Comp - 48
3D NR on
Grade - 40

Backlight
HLC 70

Illuminator Manual
100/100

Distance to middle of street --- ~215 ft measured on both IPVM and Axisgis

I have a shielded cat6 running to a different, closer, corner of my house, but the angle would be more severe closer to 90 degrees due to obstructions. I could use this corner to mount an IR light, but it would be pretty filtered by trees/etc to hit the same spot. If I pointed in the general direction or slightly ahead, would there be any potential benefits from bounced IR? Is it needed? I'm thinking I've got one of the more challenging use cases :(

We have 1 street light that pulses on/off periodically and sits ~ 300 feet from this spot in the road.

Screenshot 2020-10-20 134656.png
 
It does look like more IR would help.

I’ve been playing with a wider open Iris with good results. Try bumping that to 65-70 and see how it looks. Can probably then play with gain.
 
  • Like
Reactions: samplenhold
Here are my settings that worked at 200 feet, but I thought the plates were too small and added some guesses, so I turned it closer with a less than desirable angle but could get more plates (see image below at 156):

H.265, Codec off
1920*1080
Frame rate 10
VBR
Quality best
bitrate 4096

1603230441212.png

1603230466040.png
 
  • Like
Reactions: samplenhold
My current night settings and captures

H.264H
1920*1080
Frame rate 30
CBR
Bitrate 8192
Backlight - OFF

HOA Entr_EntrTag_main_20201017003910_@3.jpg HOA Entr_EntrTag_main_20201017000418_@3.jpg HOA Entr_EntrTag_main_20201016223738_@3.jpg HOA Entr_EntrTag_main_20201016220119_@3.jpg HOA Entr_EntrTag_main_20201016222114_@3.jpg

EntrTag0930.jpg
EntrTag0930-2.jpg
EntrTag0930-3.jpg
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: gwminor48 and tech101
right at 100ft
 
I'm back, my daytime is working well. Night not so much. Too dark.

I'm thinking about getting tendelux 200ft illuminator. I saw somewhere that the light should source from near the camera so the reflected light returns to the origin for the camera to see the license plates.

True/false?

I have two positions to place the light, one is closer to the cars but not in direct line of the camera it would be sort of shooting the cars from the side. The second is right next to the camera but the distance is about 200 feet.

As I've shown before cars are filling the frame at my distance fully zoomed in. I know it is recommended to have the plates themselves come close to filling the frame, I just can't get that close with reasonable angle.

Thoughts?

2 lights? Both locations?
 
No I don’t fill the frame with plate, about 2 car widths

200 ft is a stretch with the Z12 IMHO

Yes you’ll need stronger IR more or less same angle as the camera. 200 ft rating on an IR unit means you’ll get 100-150 useful IR and it will be pretty dispersed at that distance. Cut IR ratings in 1/2.

Gain and Iris both make a huge difference in brightness of the plate reflection
 
  • Like
Reactions: samplenhold and tech101
bigredfish said:
No I don’t fill the frame with plate, about 3 car widths

200 ft is a stretch with the Z12 IMHO

Yes you’ll need stronger IR more or less same angle as the camera. 200 ft rating on an IR unit means you’ll get 100-150 useful IR and it will be pretty dispersed at that distance. Cut IR ratings in 1/2.

Gain and Iris both make a huge difference in brightness of the plate reflection
Click to expand...
You think I have a chance with the image I showed above?
 
All things are possible with enough time and money ;)
If you can get enough IR on it and use Gain and iris to your advantage, and if it doesnt lose focus, which at max zoom it tends to do. *(new firmware supposedly has a fix for Manual Focus for this), it might work.

I'm just saying you're at the limits of consistent plate recognizing at that distance and angle and you'll probably need to consider stronger more focused IR like that of Scene Electronics
 
  • Like
Reactions: sebastiantombs, samplenhold and tech101
blazin912 said:
You think I have a chance with the image I showed above?
Click to expand...
To me, that image looks out of focus. It looks like mine when the focus strays a little, like going from 1620 to 1600.

While I have not installed an IR illuminator, I have studied it quite a bit and if needed, I would get the one below. It is small and POE powered. There are several FOV you can choose from. It also has a day/night sensor.
POE IR ill.JPG
 
  • Like
Reactions: sebastiantombs
Those look cool. Axton has a good reputation. Is that 30 degrees at 60 ft?

I see now it says rated at 130ft, again knock some off for true effective range
 
Last edited:
samplenhold said:
To me, that image looks out of focus. It looks like mine when the focus strays a little, like going from 1620 to 1600.

While I have not installed an IR illuminator, I have studied it quite a bit and if needed, I would get the one below. It is small and POE powered. There are several FOV you can choose from. It also has a day/night sensor.
View attachment 76738
Click to expand...
That light looks awesome, but I'm not sure it's true POE. Nothing mentioned in data sheets or setup. They show a pair of wires to supply 9-18v, that's it.

Would that work with a ubiquiti 60w poe switch?
 
Direct I believe... (Scene)

Just an example. I would study the beam/angle/distance you need to be certain which illuminator to buy.

Personally before I bought an expensive illuminator I'd find a way to get a cheap one close to the target point temporarily to see how well the camera can focus at that distance over say 2-3 days. Any way you can do that by enlisting a neighbor?
 
  • Like
Reactions: sebastiantombs and samplenhold
bigredfish said:
Direct I believe... (Scene)

Just an example. I would study the beam/angle/distance you need to be certain which illuminator to buy.

Personally before I bought an expensive illuminator I'd find a way to get a cheap one close to the target point temporarily to see how well the camera can focus at that distance over say 2-3 days. Any way you can do that by enlisting a neighbor?
Click to expand...
No chance, got a lot of distance between houses. The 215 feet is ~1/2 way between our houses.

And I'm shooting across my property to get a good angle so they'd almost be shining light back at me.

I think the axton stuff looks good but I believe b&h is wrong here, doesn't look to use normal A or B pairs for power...
 
bigredfish said:
Direct I believe... (Scene)

Just an example. I would study the beam/angle/distance you need to be certain which illuminator to buy.

Personally before I bought an expensive illuminator I'd find a way to get a cheap one close to the target point temporarily to see how well the camera can focus at that distance over say 2-3 days. Any way you can do that by enlisting a neighbor?
Click to expand...
As for focus, I'm using the sunrise/sunset service to drive the camera to known focus every morning/night are we saying the focus shifts even if you keep that constant?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top Bottom