IPC-T5442T-ZE IPC-T5442TM-AS latest new firmware General_IPC-HX5XXX-Volt_MultiLang_NP_Stream3_V2.800.15OG004.0.R.201203
- Thread starter EMPIRETECANDY
- Start date
@fixxxer0, On my HDW5442T-ZE, on the exposure tab under Conditions, there is a ON/OFF setting for Smart IR.
Have found the following FW DH_IPC-HX5XXX-Volt_MultiLang_NP_Stream3_V2.820.0000000.0.R.201114 on Dahua-Webpage.
Version Number is higher with 2.820, but the release date is from 201114.
Any comments ?
Version Number is higher with 2.820, but the release date is from 201114.
Any comments ?
@EMPIRETECANDY - Do you have the latest version firmware with Dahua branding? My NVR uses that data from the firmware to identify camera model and supported analytic events. With the generic firmware they won't function. Thanks!
When I turn on WDR or SSA under BLC for 5442TM-AS, the picture gets a purple tint. Almost every form of BLC makes the picture look worse than OFF. There is a way to fix this?
During day or not or both? What are your other settings - auto shutter?
If you haven't yet, you should try to dial the camera in with other settings first and only use backlight as a last resort. It can add artifacts and noise and color issues if too high.
Post a picture and screenshots of your other settings.
It's during the night. There is a street lamp ahead that I'm trying to use BLC to get rid of the glare. Settings in the attached pictures. WB = Auto, forced Color Nightvision, IR = Off, Defog = Off
Attachments
Ok - the default settings is your problem. Turn off the backlight.
Next, take it off auto settings at night unless you like seeing Casper. Auto settings in most situations for shutter will produce a great picture, but motion is complete crap with blurring and ghosting.
Go into shutter settings and change to manual priority and start with custom shutter as ms and change to 0-8.3ms and gain 0-50 for starters. Auto could have a shutter speed of 100ms or more and gain up at 100 which will contribute to significant ghosting and that blinding you are getting from the streetlamp.
Now what you will notice that happens immediately is your image gets A LOT darker. That faster the shutter, the more light that is needed. But it is a balance. The nice bright night image results in Casper during motion LOL. What do we want, a nice static image or a clean image when there is motion introduced to the scene?
So if it is too dark, then start adding ms to the time. Go to 10ms, 12ms, etc. until you find what you feel is acceptable as an image. Then have someone walk around and see if you can get a clean shot. Try not to go above 30ms as that tends to be the point where blur starts to occur.
You can also adjust brightness and contrast to improve the image.
You can also add some gain to brighten the image - but the higher the gain, the more ghosting you get. Some cameras can go to 70 or so before it is an issue and some can't go over 50.
But adjusting those two settings will have the biggest impact. The next one is noise reduction. Want to keep that as low as possible. Depending on the amount of light you have, you might be able to get down to 40 or so at night (again camera dependent), but take it as low as you can before it gets too noisy. Again this one is a balance as well. Too smooth and no noise can result in soft images.
You will also need to decide if you will get better results in B/W or live with the color and maybe not see as much detail.
Next, take it off auto settings at night unless you like seeing Casper. Auto settings in most situations for shutter will produce a great picture, but motion is complete crap with blurring and ghosting.
Go into shutter settings and change to manual priority and start with custom shutter as ms and change to 0-8.3ms and gain 0-50 for starters. Auto could have a shutter speed of 100ms or more and gain up at 100 which will contribute to significant ghosting and that blinding you are getting from the streetlamp.
Now what you will notice that happens immediately is your image gets A LOT darker. That faster the shutter, the more light that is needed. But it is a balance. The nice bright night image results in Casper during motion LOL. What do we want, a nice static image or a clean image when there is motion introduced to the scene?
So if it is too dark, then start adding ms to the time. Go to 10ms, 12ms, etc. until you find what you feel is acceptable as an image. Then have someone walk around and see if you can get a clean shot. Try not to go above 30ms as that tends to be the point where blur starts to occur.
You can also adjust brightness and contrast to improve the image.
You can also add some gain to brighten the image - but the higher the gain, the more ghosting you get. Some cameras can go to 70 or so before it is an issue and some can't go over 50.
But adjusting those two settings will have the biggest impact. The next one is noise reduction. Want to keep that as low as possible. Depending on the amount of light you have, you might be able to get down to 40 or so at night (again camera dependent), but take it as low as you can before it gets too noisy. Again this one is a balance as well. Too smooth and no noise can result in soft images.
You will also need to decide if you will get better results in B/W or live with the color and maybe not see as much detail.
I tried the manual exposure settings, they pretty much all produce a black picture except for the tiny bright spot under the street lamp. I will leave this camera under B/W for now. Thank you for the tips.
Yeah - that is an exceptionally bright light bounce coming off that street!
I think you will be happier with the B/W. We all like color, but these things need so much light - and light in the right place!
You could maybe try the backlight at a much lower number, but at some point it does make the picture worse. Did you try a low HLC?
I think you will be happier with the B/W. We all like color, but these things need so much light - and light in the right place!
You could maybe try the backlight at a much lower number, but at some point it does make the picture worse. Did you try a low HLC?
I tried HLC at 10 but it still had more artifact than plain BLC. Only setting that reduced the glare is the WDR at high getting of 70+, but then the whole picture turns purple and nasty.
looney2ns
IPCT Contributor
Flintstone61
Known around here
What the hell is HLC....
Highlight compensation...but since I only use it for my LPR cam, I call it Headlight Compensation
It is used to knock down bright lights and prevent blinding.
A
Are there any general guide to updating the firmware on your devices? I read somewhere that it is a good idea to reset to factory default before the upgrade? And also after upgrade, is that correct?
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looney2ns
IPCT Contributor
Some of us like to do a reboot of the camera prior to any upgrade.
I think that is only for the cams that have 4 IR LEDs, like the bullet form factors.
Its a shame they dont make it for the turret model aswell. I will only use the cam fully zoomed in at 12mm for all the time. Will have no need for "wide" IR-led at all. This means I wont use IR at all.