Looking for a camera security system.

aristobrat said:
Yes and no. I've accessed recordings remotely using the iOS TiVo app on both my iPhone/iPad (I do this a lot while waiting in the exam room for my vet, ... they're great, just really slow), but I've never done it remotely with a PC. It looks like the "kmttg" Java app might be a more automated way of doing what's listed in your first link above. If you haven't found it already, check out the TiVo Community forum over at TiVoCommunity Forum. Lots of good info, just takes some searching to find it sometimes. :)
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Yeah, I've been posting on those forums for years.

Thanks for sharing your experience.

I have kmttg too, I just haven't tried it when on a remote PC. I guess the next time I have time and will be remote, I'll have to be prepared to try a few ways, from the links above.

I don't have an iOS device so I can't do it that way.
 
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aristobrat said:
I do have VPN set up. Good job on getting yours setup, that is the safest way to connect back into your network.

For that PSU calculator, I think that was probably "maximum power consumption" and that your regular day-to-day usage will be lower.

I use this UPS for my TiVo: 650VA APC UPS If I were buying now, I'd consider getting the newer, less-expensive 600VA model. I haven't gone through the reviews of that model though...

I need to update those pictures you looked at as I've reallocated the load. The picture with the UPS showing 48W was just my PC... I hadn't moved the PoE network switch over to that UPS yet. So the "networking" UPS should go down about 20-25W, and the "computer" UPS should go up by that amount.
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So I had placed an order for all remaining parts (hard drive, APC UPS, etc.) on July 29th. At the time, it said the APC was backordered on BH Photo Video, but it would be available in 7 - 14 days.

I've been checking every day.

I checked today, and it said October 3rd.

I called and asked if it was possible for a refund. The representative also checked the date, and said that was wrong, it's really September 23rd.

I also see it's backordered on Amazon.

It says it's in stock right now on New Egg, and on eBay's New Egg Store. I'd have to pay tax though. It can arrive in a week.

I guess I need to think about it for a little bit, about whether I should cancel the BH Photo Video order, or not. If I get it in a week, I still probably can't make the appointment with the installer until the end of the month, because they're usually booked for 2 - 3 weeks in advance.
 
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Is B&H not shipping the other parts (hard drive, etc) until the APC is in stock? If you had everything else and were just missing the APC, I'd go ahead with the install (and install the APC when it finally arrives).
 
aristobrat said:
Is B&H not shipping the other parts (hard drive, etc) until the APC is in stock? If you had everything else and were just missing the APC, I'd go ahead with the install (and install the APC when it finally arrives).
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B&H shipped everything that was available, right away.

Thanks for the suggestion. I kind of want everything pre-set up as much as possible. So I have less things to finish setting up, even if it's just the APC UPS, after the install. I'm hoping after the install, I'll have minimal work left, whether it's some configuration, or updating something.

Almost every day for the last several months, I've spent time preparing for this whole system. Whether it was researching parts, or watching videos, or setting up the VPN (and asking questions), etc. This whole thread started last year, and my first steps were to meet with installers and get estimates, and learn what camera systems were available. It's been a process of learning and such, since then.

Right now, I just got the TV that I wanted to use for monitoring, installed on Monday. While I intend to mostly only use it for monitoring, and not actually watch much TV on it, I've still been going through settings how I like them, and trying to improve on motion blur.

Or, I learned that just because an app is available on Android, it doesn't mean it's available on Android TV. I didn't realize they were two separate things. It seems silly that I have to cast the NBC Sports app from my phone to the new TV, because it's not available directly on Android TV.

About the only time I really plan to use the upstairs TV to watch TV is if my parents or other guests are over, and they want to watch something. So they can watch downstairs, while I'll watch upstairs.

Because I don't plan to use the upstairs to watch much TV, I haven't considered extending my Tivo to it by getting a Tivo Mini Vox or something. But I still want to at least see what the TV can really do, during these first few days.

Anything can change in the future though, and if I find myself needing to use the upstairs TV to watch TV, then I'll at least know what settings or configuration I need.

Plus I want to do some tests once I get the APC and see how much power my desktop uses, so if I want to get another one, I'll have a better idea of what to get.

I've also just realized this weekend that if I were to get another device that needed a hardwired Ethernet connection, such as a video game console, then I would need to get an Ethernet switch because my router would run out of ports. So the switch would be one more device that would require power (in addition to the router, modem, NVR, Tivo, and Ooma), and because only 5 outlets on the APC actually back up power, I'd need to get a 2nd one and re-arrange some things.

A video game console isn't a priority right now, but I could always get one partially for the Blu Ray player, partially for the games.
 
The thought also crossed my mind yesterday, that what if I hate the motion blur on the new TV so much, that I want to return it? I'd have to have the handyman remove it from the wall mount; pay for return shipping; look for a new TV and make sure I can get a live demo of sports to test motion blur (some stores have certain models display those pre-set images of nature, which aren't the same conditions as sports); buy it; and have the handyman install it.

Hopefully it's just a matter of me finding the right setting, but it was something that crossed my mind yesterday, as I was watching some things and adjusting the settings. So if I went down this path, it would be another delay before scheduling the appointment with the installer.
 
The price of the APC BX1500M went up by $5 on BH Photo Video, Amazon.com, and NewEgg today.

I wonder why.

Usually the prices of things decrease over time. Unless they are discontinued products that were great for its time.
 
I called APC to ask them why it was so hard to find the APC BX1500M all of a sudden.

After doing some research, they said that model is being phased out.

The new model is BR1500MS.

That's in stock on B&H Photo Video and Amazon, but $193. If the already ordered BX1500M never gets in stock again, then I'll get this. I guess meanwhile I'll just wait and hope it actually gets in stock when it says it will.
 
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nuraman00 said:
I called APC to ask them why it was so hard to find the APC BX1500M all of a sudden.

After doing some research, they said that model is being phased out.

The new model is BR1500MS.

That's in stock on B&H Photo Video and Amazon, but $193. If the already ordered BX1500M never gets in stock again, then I'll get this. I guess meanwhile I'll just wait and hope it actually gets in stock when it says it will.
Click to expand...

I randomly checked Costco.com today, and I found out they have a similar APC model, the BN1500M2, for $150 pre-tax! However, in looking at the specs of the new BR1500MS, and the BN1500M2, I don't see a difference, except for runtime.

The runtime of the BN1500M2 looks a little worse than the BR1500MS. But the runtime of the BN1500M2 does look similar to the one I ordered from B&H Photo Video, the BX1500M.

I guess I'll call APC tomorrow and ask what the difference between the BN1500M2 and the BR1500MS is, and why the runtimes are a little different.

If they really aren't that different, including runtime, I might just get the one from Costco, since it's available.
 
I called APC and asked about the difference between the BR1500MS, and the BN1500M2.

The BR1500MS has a pure sine wave, and the BN1500M2 (in stock at Costco.com) has a simulated sine wave.

Both also have 6 battery backed outlets, as compared to the BX1500M that is on backorder, which has 5 such outlets.

After doing more reading, a pure sine wave is cleaner. Some devices also require it (such as certain computer monitors or other devices).

I'm not sure if any of the devices I have will really need the pure sine wave.

But, I guess I'll go with it.

Question: How should I connect the Ethernet RJ45 dataline to the UPS? OUT from the cable modem and IN to the UPS, and then OUT from the UPS and into the router?
 
nuraman00 said:
Question: How should I connect the Ethernet RJ45 dataline to the UPS? OUT from the cable modem and IN to the UPS, and then OUT from the UPS and into the router?
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That’s how I would do it.
 
nuraman00 said:
Question: How should I connect the Ethernet RJ45 dataline to the UPS? OUT from the cable modem and IN to the UPS, and then OUT from the UPS and into the router?
Click to expand...

aristobrat said:
That’s how I would do it.
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Thanks again for your prompt responses.

Now I remember another reason why I asked this question.

Right now, I have a coaxial cable coming from the wall, into a splitter. One out port on the splitter goes to the cable modem, and the other out port goes to the Tivo.

Should I do this instead?

1) Wall--> IN of UPS.
2) OUT of UPS --> IN of splitter.
3)

A. OUT1 of splitter --> cable modem.
B. OUT2 of splitter --> Tivo.

I was also a little surprised there were no RJ11 phone jack ports. But, I already have a surge protector that I use that has 3 RJ11 ports (1 in, 2 out). So not a big deal. I can just keep using that for my Ooma.
 
The question is: would you like to protect the coax line from lightning/high-low voltage peaks/drops? If that's the case, you connect it to the COAX IN on your UPS, and from the COAX OUT to your splitter. The rest of your setup remains the same. To help you assess the answer: if lightning strikes, it will most probably blow the fuse in the UPS. Without, maybe your cable modem (property of?) and/or the Tivo (property of?) blow. Many telco do not exchange modems for free when lightning strikes, but your fire insurance might (or not) cover these expenses.
 
catcamstar said:
The question is: would you like to protect the coax line from lightning/high-low voltage peaks/drops? If that's the case, you connect it to the COAX IN on your UPS, and from the COAX OUT to your splitter. The rest of your setup remains the same. To help you assess the answer: if lightning strikes, it will most probably blow the fuse in the UPS. Without, maybe your cable modem (property of?) and/or the Tivo (property of?) blow. Many telco do not exchange modems for free when lightning strikes, but your fire insurance might (or not) cover these expenses.
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So you mean from the wall, to the COAX IN of the UPS, right?
 
I just plugged in my APC. I think it needs 16 hours to charge, even though it says the runtime with 0 load is 179 mins.

So I will check back Saturday evening, and start plugging in stuff then.
 
I've plugged in:

Router, modem, landline phone, and Tivo. This takes 36 - 39 Watts.

I couldn't plug in the Ooma because the shape of the plug blocks too many outlets. So that's in my old surge protector for now.

This seems pretty good, pre-NVR.

I have 2 empty battery backed outlets, which would be good for the NVR, and maybe a network switch if I ever get one. Hopefully the switch doesn't have a weird shaped plug that blocks outlets.

I might get another APC later for the PC, monitor, and Ooma.

I ran into some problems because my network wasn't recognized anymore after plugging in the router and modem into the APC.

It kept saying "unplugged".

After about 45 mins of trouble shooting, I figured out that one of the new Ethernet cables I used in this expanded setup was defective. I swapped it with another cable, and everything worked. At first, I thought something was wrong with the APC Ethernet ports, so I tried to plug in the cables the way they were before, without the APC. When that wasn't working, tried each of the new cables I had used today until I figured out which one was the bad one.

How do I see the APC runtime with the current load? Even after plugging in things today and having a load, it still says 179 minutes. That can't be right, because that's what it said before I plugged in things.
 
nuraman00 said:
How do I see the APC runtime with the current load? Even after plugging in things today and having a load, it still says 179 minutes. That can't be right, because that's what it said before I plugged in things.
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I suggest you simply unplug the main power source of the UPS. You'll quickly see what happens in case of a power outage ;-)
 
catcamstar said:
I suggest you simply unplug the main power source of the UPS. You'll quickly see what happens in case of a power outage ;-)
Click to expand...

Thanks. I unplugged it for a minute.

It estimated between 135 - 149 mins (it kept going to different numbers within that range). As soon as I plugged it back in, it said 146 minutes.

I also just found this, which says that for loads less than 10%, it doesn't do a good job estimating. My load, pre-NVR, is 4%.

Load is connected to a SmartUPS, yet reports as 0% on the display or in software.
 
I plugged in the following into a Kill A Watt meter:

* Speakers (two power cords)
* PC power
* Monitor
* Light switch
* Ooma VoIP

I plan to move the speakers to the "surge only" ports of my APC battery backup, once I get a longer power cord, in a few days.

With the PC and monitor off, the devices used about 28 watts. If I turned on the light switch, it went to about 35 watts.

With the PC and monitor on, the devices used from 188 - 246 watts, depending on when I looked at it.

So it appears the PC and monitor use about 160 - 218 watts.

Also, I just got a network switch. Once I plugged that into my APC, it went to about 38 - 40 watts, and now started showing an accurate remaining runtime. 166 minutes.

Later this month, I'll be able to plug in the NVR.
 
nuraman00 said:
I plugged in the following into a Kill A Watt meter:

* Speakers (two power cords)
* PC power
* Monitor
* Light switch
* Ooma VoIP

I plan to move the speakers to the "surge only" ports of my APC battery backup, once I get a longer power cord, in a few days.

With the PC and monitor off, the devices used about 28 watts. If I turned on the light switch, it went to about 35 watts.

With the PC and monitor on, the devices used from 188 - 246 watts, depending on when I looked at it.

So it appears the PC and monitor use about 160 - 218 watts.

Also, I just got a network switch. Once I plugged that into my APC, it went to about 38 - 40 watts, and now started showing an accurate remaining runtime. 166 minutes.

Later this month, I'll be able to plug in the NVR.
Click to expand...
That is either a really inefficient pc or monitor...those numbers are insane.
 
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