Hi All
Back here after a long while.
All of the cameras have now been installed over the weekend. Home networking setup has also been done by this IT Networking chap to allow for the footage to be securely viewable over the internet on the mobile - created a dedicated LAN for the cameras and whatever else.
I now have a couple of questions about the
Blue Iris setup. I have installed Blue Iris 5 on the dedicated NVR - HP Elite Desktop - it has a 500 Gb SSD (standard NTFS format with 4 Kb block size. with Windows 11 and Blue Iris 5 on it and nothing else) and a 6 Tb WD Purple HDD (NTFS formatted with 1 Mb block size as recommended on this forum).
500 Gb is the C:\ drive (400 Gb free) and 6 Tb is the D:\ drive
My current setup has all the folders - 'db', 'new' and 'stored' - on the C:\ drive.
From what I have read about the setup, it is suggested that :-
1. the 'db' folder be on the fast direct drive, so I take it that it being on the C:\ should be OK.
2. the 'New' and the 'Stored' folders both be on to the D:\ drive - please advise
From what I have read on the forum and elsewhere, it appears that Blue Iris needs to see both the 'New' and the 'Stored' folders. Hence, even though the 'Stored' folder is not expected to serve much purpose when the footage is not intended to be retained for any longer than a week, it should still be created and assigned a capacity of '0' bytes and allow about 80% of the HDD capacity to the 'New' folder. Please advise. I intend to record 24/7 from all the 8 cameras - 3 are 4MP (1/1.8" sensor) cameras and 5 are 5 MP (1/2.8" sensor) cameras with motion detected external lighting in those areas - its nearly impossible to buy 2 MP cameras these days and hence had to buy 5 MP cameras on those sensor size.
Also, I noticed that Blue Iris did not find the cameras. i had to manually add them one by one - these are
Uniview (
UNV) cameras. But that shouldn't make any difference, should it?
Additionally, is there no way to arrange/resize the camera windows. For example if I want the window for Cam1 to be bigger and needs to be the top left window and arrange the windows for the other camera to wherever i would like them to be on the interface, can this be done. I couldn't do it, no matter what I tried.
UNV's default software is EZStation and seems to allow window resizing/rearragement, i would like to use Blue Iris. Is there some place i can go to where some of the layout settings can be changed
I also couldn't find where I could change the camera settings like image, illumination etc. in Blue Iris or is that done elsewhere (probably in the
Uniview provided software - EZStation. Whilst I do realize that this is primarily a Dahua camera forum, does anyone has much familiarity with
UNV cameras who can guide me to their preferred settings for best outcomes?
Best regards
Deepak
Most of us do not use the find/inspect to add cameras, so that is fine what you experienced.
Best practice is to type in the IP address, username and password and then hit the find/inspect button to let BI find the correct operating protocol - for many that will come up as generic which is fine - it means the camera actually adhered to ONVIF "standards".
BI only takes what video is provided to it. So illumination, shutter, brightness, etc. all have to be done within the camera GUI or software provided for the camera.
Yes, just keep STORED as 0GB and do not move video to it. Yes you want NEW and STORED on the dedicated HDD.
Regardless of the camera, the following are generally the same:
In terms of getting the most out of the camera, here is my "standard" post that many use as a start for dialing in day and night that helps get the clean captures and help the camera recognize people and cars.
Start with:
H264
8192 bitrate
CBR
15FPS
15 iframes
Every field of view is different, but I have found you need contrast to usually be 6-8 higher than the brightness number at night.
We want the ability to freeze frame capture a clean image from the video at night, and that is only done with a shutter of 1/60 or faster. At night, default/auto may be on 1/12s shutter or worse to make the image bright.
In my opinion, shutter (exposure) and gain are the two most important parameters and then base the others off of it. Shutter is more important than FPS. It is the shutter speed that prevents motion blur, not FPS. 15 FPS is more than enough for surveillance cameras as we are not producing Hollywood movies. Match iframes to FPS. 15FPS is all that is usually needed.
Many people do not realize there is manual shutter that lets you adjust shutter and gain and a shutter priority that only lets you adjust shutter speed but not gain. The higher the gain, the bigger the noise and see-through ghosting start to appear because the noise is amplified. Most people select shutter priority and run a faster shutter than they should because it is likely being done at 100 gain, so it is actually defeating their purpose of a faster shutter.
Go into shutter settings and change to manual shutter and start with custom shutter as ms and change to 0-8.3ms and gain 0-50 (night) and 0-4ms exposure and 0-30 gain (day)for starters. Auto could have a shutter speed of 100ms or more with a gain at 100 and shutter priority could result in gain up at 100 which will contribute to significant ghosting and that blinding white you will get from the infrared or white light.
Now what you will notice immediately at night is that your image gets A LOT darker. That faster the shutter, the more light that is needed. But it is a balance. The nice bright night static image results in Casper blur and ghost during motion LOL. What do we want, a nice static image or a clean image when there is motion introduced to the scene?
In the daytime, if it is still too bright, then drop the 4ms down to 3ms then 2ms, etc. You have to play with it for your field of view.
Then at night, if it is too dark, then start adding ms to the time. Go to 10ms, 12ms, etc. until you find what you feel is acceptable as an image. Then have someone walk around and see if you can get a clean shot. Try not to go above 16.67ms (but certainly not above 30ms) as that tends to be the point where blur starts to occur. Conversely, if it is still bright, then drop down in time to get a faster shutter.
You can also adjust brightness and contrast to improve the image. But try not to go above 70 for anything and try to have
contrast be at least 7-10 digits higher than brightness.
You can also add some gain to brighten the image - but the higher the gain, the more ghosting you get. Some cameras can go to 70 or so before it is an issue and some can't go over 50.
But adjusting those two settings will have the biggest impact. The next one is noise reduction. Want to keep that as low as possible. Depending on the amount of light you have, you might be able to get down to 40 or so at night (again camera dependent) and 20-30 during the day, but take it as low as you can before it gets too noisy. Again this one is a balance as well. Too smooth and no noise can result in soft images and contribute to blur.
Do not use backlight features until you have exhausted every other parameter setting. And if you do have to use backlight, take it down as low as possible.
After every setting adjustment, have someone walk around outside and see if you can freeze-frame to get a clean image. If not, keep changing until you do. Clean motion pictures are what we are after, not a clean static image.