How would I manually adjust the focus? Does it involve opening the housing of this bullet camera? This camera is kind of hard to remove because it's located close to the street and close to the ground so I mounted it that you can't just walk up and rip it out...
Its also worth noting that I think all of us went through this phase of smacking our head against the wall before we got LPR down. It seems no LPR setup is the same, and everything needs its own settings
but it wouldnt be the first one to have a lens that wasnt seated right. Im not one who has done it but others here have with great success. Involves opeing the camera and manually adjusting the lens
Yeah, I was going to just leave it but then as @IReallyLikePizza2 says, his pictures are a lot better even when you look at my picture (post #29) that was taken under more ideal conditions. Anyways, I can read the plates so I get what I need.
Are you using the dayandnight utility? Because my focus during the day is different to night. So if you get it tuned well for night, it will never be good during the day
I temporarily switched over to color as most people record in color during daytime. I also set sharpness to 50 and for daytime gain is 0-40. This is the non-moving car I used to autofocus (zoom 1020, focus 1081). 15fps, 8192bps.
This is a moving car after autofocus with fps increased to 25, i-frame 25 and 20,000bps. I can read the plates just fine but it certainly is still far off from what @IReallyLikePizza2 is getting. Since I can read the plates I am kind of beyond trying to make this better but it still puzzles me why my images are that much worse. In post #35 you can also see that pretty much the entire frame is in good focus whereas in my case the bushes and even the walkway in the back are quite out of focus.
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I played with the focus manually and now I am getting a lot better images. When I did auto focus it set the focus to 1081. I adjusted it manually down to 1065. Note that this is still with 25fps and 16,000bps. What puzzles me #1 is the fact that the asphalt is still pretty sharp but so are the leaves in the background. So the depth of field seems a lot larger than before. It's a bit brighter so maybe it closed down the aperture (assuming those cameras can actually change the aperture). Of maybe the focus point was much more towards the camera and there was still a large area towards the camera (but outside the image) that was sharp and now I just moved it away. What puzzles me #3 is that before I was at sharpness 1081. When I did +20 or -20 from there the image would be completely out of focus (to the point where you can't read license plates). Yet, now I am 16 points lower and get really sharp images. It makes no sense. Anyways, I think I can finally leave it at this. We will see how it goes during night time.
Yes, the Iris can be changed and that will impact the DOF.
Remember that the FPS has nothing to do with exposure, focus, or DOF. I am thinking that since you keep mentioning it that you are thinking that the FPS has impact on exposure.