LPR setup help

Ok, got the new cable set up and hooked up. But now, of course, the camera isn't being found on my NVR. I've had this problem before, but I don't recall how I solved it.
It doesn't come up automatically. Tried search device without luck. I could have sworn I saw it show up under camera list, but then it was gone.. so not 100% sure.

I'll have to double check the cable to ensure it's ok, but anything else to check?
 
Disregard that last post. Sheeze.. What happened was when I tucked the cable into the soffit better, the cable disconnected. Then when I went to trouble shoot the NVR, I disconnected the cable to check the fitting, phone rang, when I came back I connected the wrong cable in and yeah... fun. lol...

Figured it all out. Though my aiming, I forgot to bring my phone to the ladder, was way off. Adjustments tomorrow. I'm done for the day. :)
 
Looks like there is a good chance of getting color 24/7. Ignore the fact I misjudged the angle without my phone. lol
Anyone with suggested settings/tips on this cam? There are so many options. whooo

:)
 

Attachments

  • 20250224_192505_ch19.jpg
    20250224_192505_ch19.jpg
    422.1 KB · Views: 0
Last edited:
Finally got the angle and installation mostly done. Still need to go back and waterproof the opening, tuck in the cable, etc...

Note to self, and anyone else: When installing the junction box, point the FRONT towards the area you want the camera to capture. Having the camera at an angle like I do interferes with up/down adjustment, etc..

I really wish Dahua would include better screws with these cameras. Pay the extra $1.00 for good screws vs what you have now.

Now time to dial things in. Not really understanding the lanes drawings, etc..for plate capturing yet. But, time to experiment.
 
First shot for night color captures. Hoping to get better with more dialing in, and hopefully the city replaces this street lamp with a brighter one... they've stated for 3 months they were going to.
Otherwise may go IR at night until the lamp change.
 

Attachments

  • 19_20250225183738_5231824.jpg
    19_20250225183738_5231824.jpg
    919.9 KB · Views: 0
Not a bad start.

I've found that the amount of light REALLY needed to run color at night with close or zoomed objects far exceeds most peoples idea of a lot of light.
It takes a metric shitload*

*Actually I may be wrong on my measurement, @samplenhold has a chart somewhere ... :rofl:
 
Thank you all for getting me at a baseline of where to start. I have a B52IR-Z12E-S2 from Andy. I'm quite impressed with some of the images here with some of the settings I tried to replicate. My street is pretty dark, so I'm heavily reliant on IR and have an additional IR beam mounted directly underneath the Z12. I am running 30FPS with iframes at 30 as well. I attempted lower values but they were actually worse.

Where I'm having problems is that moving vehicles, even at a 1/4000 or 1/2000 shutter, moving vehicles can still have blurry plates.

What I'm fighting is that a sharpness value too low (like the 10 that was mentioned) also contributes to making things unreadable, even though the plate might be stationary. It's like having a super soft focus that you can't fix.

Playing with NR (erroring on the lower side) introduces a lot of "static" on the image that can also be a detriment to readability, whereas a level 50 is almost no noise on both 2d and 3d, but a detriment to motion readability. I have these set at 35 for 3d, 25 for 2d.

Gain is set to 20-70. More than 70 can introduce way more noise than I'd like. I've been playing with Iris. I believe this photo was at iris 60 with a 1/4000 shutter. From my understanding lower iris numbers are a higher F stop (more things are in focus, like F22 for camera folks, but less light overall) and higher iris numbers are lower F stop numbers that have a narrow depth of field but more light (making you really have to fine tune the area in question).

Do i need to Zoom in more? I was trying to allow for vehicles traveling in either direction, but also giving enough space to trigger motion correctly. To the left of this image is a wall, so the tree on the right can't really be avoided without cropping in.

I think my daytime capture is fairly decent and it feels like an appropriate sized kill zone. I'm actually using a 1/10000 shutter in the day.
 

Attachments

  • still but blurry.png
    still but blurry.png
    1.3 MB · Views: 0
  • day.png
    day.png
    3.1 MB · Views: 0
You might be able to go with a 1/1000 or 1/1500 shutter. That will help a lot.

Gain is too high. 70 will introduce problems. Keep under 50.

Just keep iris at 50.

Focus is different with infrared. Have you stopped a vehicle in the center of the view to get a focus number for night?
 
  • Like
Reactions: miztahsparklez
Thank you all for getting me at a baseline of where to start. I have a B52IR-Z12E-S2 from Andy. I'm quite impressed with some of the images here with some of the settings I tried to replicate. My street is pretty dark, so I'm heavily reliant on IR and have an additional IR beam mounted directly underneath the Z12. I am running 30FPS with iframes at 30 as well. I attempted lower values but they were actually worse.

Where I'm having problems is that moving vehicles, even at a 1/4000 or 1/2000 shutter, moving vehicles can still have blurry plates.

What I'm fighting is that a sharpness value too low (like the 10 that was mentioned) also contributes to making things unreadable, even though the plate might be stationary. It's like having a super soft focus that you can't fix.

Playing with NR (erroring on the lower side) introduces a lot of "static" on the image that can also be a detriment to readability, whereas a level 50 is almost no noise on both 2d and 3d, but a detriment to motion readability. I have these set at 35 for 3d, 25 for 2d.

Gain is set to 20-70. More than 70 can introduce way more noise than I'd like. I've been playing with Iris. I believe this photo was at iris 60 with a 1/4000 shutter. From my understanding lower iris numbers are a higher F stop (more things are in focus, like F22 for camera folks, but less light overall) and higher iris numbers are lower F stop numbers that have a narrow depth of field but more light (making you really have to fine tune the area in question).

Do i need to Zoom in more? I was trying to allow for vehicles traveling in either direction, but also giving enough space to trigger motion correctly. To the left of this image is a wall, so the tree on the right can't really be avoided without cropping in.

I think my daytime capture is fairly decent and it feels like an appropriate sized kill zone. I'm actually using a 1/10000 shutter in the day.
That closer plate shot where the camera is focused on a parked car and not the driven car says your camera is not as focused out in the driving lane on the night setting.
You may benefit from a trick somebody showed us in the forum awhile back with small reflectors or reflective tape.

image_2025-02-27_030439783.png1740647153413.pngimage_2025-02-27_030639263.pngimage_2025-02-27_030717301.pngimage_2025-02-27_030802368.png
 
Last edited:
These jobbies might work. It's just a reference point. it may end up out of focus for the best plate shot, but it let me manually focus my lens to a win/win range.
@TheWaterbug
image_2025-02-27_030932652.pngimage_2025-02-27_031507956.png
 
Question for ya all. For the setting about lighting, do you set for auto, outdoor, streetlight, or ?? I never thought this setting did much, but at night, right under the street lamp, the color shades change a bit making things look kind of strange. haha

I tried IR last night, did very well... today I changed the angle of the cam more, and changed back to color for tonight. But now messing with settings more.
 
Its different on a lot of cameras/scenes.

Auto usually does fine with adequate light, In low light its a matter of trying each one till you find one that works
 
I have one that no matter the WB setting it changes throughout the night. I use custom on that one and it works so I don’t question why!
 
Few more setting changes and I think I made it worse. hah... Done for the night.
The same neighbors who shake their heads and frown about my cameras must have noticed the new one. Several today have stopped their cars in front of my house and looked.

I remember when I was a little kid my mom told me that if something doesn't directly concern yourself, mind your beeswax. Whatever happened to that? Mind your own damn business.
Unfortunately liberals have been invading this area more and more each year. Family, friends and work keeps me here, but if I had the money, I'd be out of here in a minute.
 
Playing with NR (erroring on the lower side) introduces a lot of "static" on the image that can also be a detriment to readability, whereas a level 50 is almost no noise on both 2d and 3d, but a detriment to motion readability. I have these set at 35 for 3d, 25 for 2d.
IIUC 3D NR performs some sort of frame-averaging, which would kill moving plate readability, big time.
 
I have one that no matter the WB setting it changes throughout the night. I use custom on that one and it works so I don’t question why!

I have one that when this big plain white truck goes by, it messes with the setting and brightens up the image as you can see from the bottom it is darker and the top images after it passes are brighter with either a higher gain or some effect.

1740750590935.png
 
To be clear there are 4 different things that can go on and have an effect

1- WB White Balance - which is what I was referring to above
2- Exposure- especially using a range
3- IR Compensation (Smart IR or whatever its called this week)
4- Rolling shutter- the camera straining to keep up in low light color with a fast shutter higher than 1/120. This is aggravating!


1- WB- I'll get some better WB samples tonight but here you can see the different hues from neutral to yellowish

192.168.1.110_4K-XCorner_main_20250227203357_@1.jpg 3-192.168.1.110_4K-XCorner_main_20250227043246_@1.jpg


2- Expsoure compensation
When big white blob appears, its dims it. When blob leaves it brightens back up. This is likely due to using an exposure Range and is as expected
Watch the trees behind the boat to see the dimming more clearly
This can also happen at night as @wittaj shows

View attachment 192.168.1.110_ch11_20250227122848_20250227122916.mp4



3- IR Compensation. I use this on this camera to help reduce IR washout

View attachment 192.168.1.110_ch8_20250222190820_20250222190845.mp4


4- Rolling shutter.
No change in scene, you're just seeing frame captures at different times as the dark shutter lines slowly roll by
pick a spot in middle of street and skip through the 4 images
192.168.1.110_Color4K-X_main_20250227223352_@1.jpg 192.168.1.110_Color4K-X_main_20250227215723_@1.jpg 192.168.1.110_Color4K-X_main_20250227214849_@1.jpg 192.168.1.110_Color4K-X_main_20250227213202_@1.jpg