Mounting to Soffit with no backing?

[xtropodx]

Well, I ended up doing it the hard way. As much as bolting them to the brick is easier, it means having to run visible conduit on the outside in some way which I didn't want to do.
So I decided to pull 2 roof tiles back first & had look in the eaves

Then after some hard sweating, sized up some thick wood pieced together & placed them above the eave like so to improve weight distribution

I ended up using the original screws that came with the camera.
Ain't no body going to knock this baby around. So you'll be able to swing off this & it shouldn't move an inch . But if it does break, I wouldn't want to be underneath it cause you'll bring whole side of the house down .

 

[gansle]

I used 3 sheet metal screws to secure junction box after drilling 1 center hole in aluminum soffit to pull cat 6 through. It holds fine just hand tighten. I mounted 2 2831 bullets.

 

[Mac13]

I used 3 sheet metal screws to secure junction box after drilling 1 center hole in aluminum soffit to pull cat 6 through. It holds fine just hand tighten. I mounted 2 2831 bullets.View attachment 51923

I’m trying to figure out how to mount to my metal soffit as well and don’t have a great way to mount to any wood behind it so I’m tempted to just mount to the soffit as well. Sounds like it is fine for most people.

Sorry for my ignorance but why use the junction box besides to protect the Cat5 connector from the elements? If you use the weatherproof connector and tuck it up above the soffit shouldn’t that be fine and no need for a junction box?

 

[TonyR]

Sorry for my ignorance but why use the junction box besides to protect the Cat5 connector from the elements?

If you don't use a box, the hole in your soffit for a pigtail would be at least twice as big (3/4") as that needed for an un-terminated CAT-5e or 6 (about 3/8").

 

[Mac13]

If you don't use a box, the hole in your soffit for a pigtail would be at least twice as big (3/4") as that needed for an un-terminated CAT-5e or 6 (about 3/8").

Ok is that bad? Lol. Already drilling other holes for screws and there are holes all in the soffit for venting. If it is that big of a concern it seems you could just seal it. I think those junction boxes aren’t very aesthetically pleasing and it just looks cleaner without it. Just making sure I’m not missing something major before I mount my cameras. Thanks!

 

[TonyR]

Ok is that bad? Lol. Already drilling other holes for screws and there are holes all in the soffit for venting. If it is that big of a concern it seems you could just seal it. I think those junction boxes aren’t very aesthetically pleasing and it just looks cleaner without it. Just making sure I’m not missing something major before I mount my cameras. Thanks!

Your house, your call....

 

[Sybertiger]

I’m trying to figure out how to mount to my metal soffit as well and don’t have a great way to mount to any wood behind it so I’m tempted to just mount to the soffit as well. Sounds like it is fine for most people.

Sorry for my ignorance but why use the junction box besides to protect the Cat5 connector from the elements? If you use the weatherproof connector and tuck it up above the soffit shouldn’t that be fine and no need for a junction box?

See if this helps.... Look at the last post for the final product.

Drilling holes into soffit big enough for waterproof connectors

Thought I'd get some ideas on what y'all are doing to drill a hole large enough for the waterproof RJ45 connector shells. Did you find that the waterproof shells are 3/4" in diameter and if so I'm assuming you are using a hole saw to cut the hole. I'm hoping a 3/4" hole saw takes out enough to...

ipcamtalk.com

 

[TonyR]

Sorry for my ignorance but why use the junction box besides to protect the Cat5 connector from the elements?

Besides the benefit I stated in post #24, a box also stands the cam off from the soffit which can help prevent IR bounce-back at night from the eave and/or gutter, which may or may not be an issue in your case.....it remains to be seen.

 

[Mac13]

See if this helps.... Look at the last post for the final product.

Drilling holes into soffit big enough for waterproof connectors

Thought I'd get some ideas on what y'all are doing to drill a hole large enough for the waterproof RJ45 connector shells. Did you find that the waterproof shells are 3/4" in diameter and if so I'm assuming you are using a hole saw to cut the hole. I'm hoping a 3/4" hole saw takes out enough to...

ipcamtalk.com

Thanks! Looks good! That is a good idea, it just seems like you need to be a good metal worker and I don't have all the tools for that :/

 

[Sybertiger]

Besides the benefit I stated in post #24, a box also stands the cam off from the soffit which can help prevent IR bounce-back at night from the eave and/or gutter, which may or may not be an issue in your case.....it remains to be seen.

Not that it's a big deal but it lowers the cam by a couple of inches not that it'll get it eye level...LOL.

 

[Sybertiger]

Thanks! Looks good! That is a good idea, it just seems like you need to be a good metal worker and I don't have all the tools for that :/

A hacksaw and a file is all you need...and a can of spray paint. In my case I used a clamp to mount the aluminum bar on the workbench then used the hacksaw to score a 1/32" line. Then grab the end and work the bar back and forth several times. It'll break right at the score line. You can use a file to clean it up or if you have a bench grinder it'll clean up quicker. Trust me, I don't have a metal workshop or anything fanciful. You can always take the aluminum stock to a metal shop and have them cut it for you. If you have a Harbor Freight near you there are all kinds of cheap tools to get the job done line an electric cut-off tool for $20 or better yet a cut-off chop saw for $45, etc....

 

[TonyR]

"In my case I used a clamp to mount the aluminum bar on the workbench....."

I hear ya. I got divorced in '04 after 31 years of marriage. The single best thing I got to keep and bring with me was a circa late 80's Black & Decker Workmate, all metal, thick 1" high density composite table-top, built like tank. I have clamped all kinds of projects to it, it's been my second pair of hands countless times. It may be the reason why I still have both hands , 8 fingers and 2 thumbs!

 

[theminions]

Hi Sybertiger, I'm new to the forums, and stumbled on your solution for mounting security cameras to the soffit. I think its great, and something I would like to attempt.

If you wouldn't mind helping on a couple of questions, I was curious to know:
What thickness is the aluminum stock that you used for mounting the cameras? It looks like 1/8" or thereabouts, but would be interested to know.
Also, what type of screws did you use to mount the camera to the aluminum bar? I imagine it must have been a really short screw, otherwise you would end up screwing through the soffit as well.

Appreciate all of hte advice on this forum!

 

[Sybertiger]

I used 1/8" thick and 2" wide aluminum flat bar from HomeDepot.

Off hand I don't recall the size screw but will see if I can locate the size I went with. The screws were slightly too long and you can file or better grind them down to make them shorter.

The process is to drill holes slightly smaller than the screw diameter then tap out the threads.

p.s. this was not my idea....I simply followed the lead of another member on this forum who suggested it.

 

[Sybertiger]

The screws I used are size 4-40 with an oval head as short as you can find them in stainless steel. I typically go to Ace Hardware for screws. I'll drill the holes in the aluminum using a drill bit slightly smaller then use a 4-40 tap from my Harbor Freight tap and die set. The SS screw is harder steel than aluminum so it's possible to use a screw to tap out the threads by working the screw in an out but a real tap is easier. The screws can be ground down shorter using a bench grinder or a file. I already owned a bench grinder, tap and die set, files, drill bits, etc. so this was easy to do. The mounting bar is then painted to match the soffit which in my case is white.

 

[sebastiantombs]

I use 6-32 stainless screws and cut them to length using a cutoff wheel in a Dremel. A little touch-up of the cut end of the screw using the cutoff wheel as a grinder works to make them easy to start in the threads. Overall length is about a quarter inch of thread to accommodate the thickness of the camera mount and the thickness of the aluminum bar.

 

[theminions]

Amazing, thank you both for the info. You’ve given me the confidence to try this out!

 

[OICU2]

For turrets I use three of these, no issues.




Along with this tool to pop open a section of soffit so I can get my hand up there:

 

[theminions]

This was my initial thought too - but you have to make 3 decent sized holes (up to 3/4” from memory) to fit the toggle through. I wanted to keep the number of holes in my soffit to a minimum (probably just the one hole for the cable), so I like the aluminum bar option.

 

[OICU2]

This was my initial thought too - but you have to make 3 decent sized holes (up to 3/4” from memory) to fit the toggle through. I wanted to keep the number of holes in my soffit to a minimum (probably just the one hole for the cable), so I like the aluminum bar option.

I only drill the hole big enough for the screw with a step bit, use the siding tool to pop open one section and thread the wing nut on.