I got 14kw kohler installed for ~$7k. That was genset, transfer switch, electrical wiring, plumbing, and pad.
Not around here, if a house has a Generator, odds are its a Generac
Got any pictures of the install so far?
Air works fine just keep the filters and enclosure clean. The only problem I had was, since this was an inherited unit with which I had no history, the first time it fired up under load it would start to surge....ignition, fuel or air. Turned out to be the air filter was sourced out of the Philippines and was speced to have a flame retardants applied. It was applied all right, right up to the point the engine couldn't breath. Replaced with a Wix and all was well. Found out the HQ for Generac stuck their dealers with a lot of dicked up filters that they wouldn't reimburse them for so they just got chucked. That right there might tell you a little about Generac tho I haven't had a problem with the unit, but I do all my own work, so.....
Yes, and I built the pad.
That's odd.....all my aircraft engines are air cooled. Guess I'll have to break the news to them that they should quit.
This is standard on the 3600RPM air cooled units, they ALL burn oil, and honestly is a deal breaker for me. This means you can't run it for longer than a few days without shutting it off to top it back up. My 1800RPM liquid cooled NEVER deviates from full, it doesn't burn any measurable quantity of oil
Lets face it, an aircraft engine is not built to the same tolerances as a budget standby generator that costs no more than $4000
Funny how mine doesn't "burn oil".....guess the nameplate is wrong.
Wanna bet? You're bamboozled by an application.....for a Continental 40psi is fine as a lower limit for differential compression check. Lycoming thinks a quart of oil burned in an hour is normal. Damn right.....in a lot of cases they're built way worse and they still charge you quadruple the price the engine should be.
That's not apples to apples though. Take an engine which exists in both air and liquid versions. Oil capacity will be the same typically.
To be honest, never said it doesn't burn oil. As a matter of record, any engine that doesn't burn oil is by far the exception and for reasons of lubrication is to be avoided. Rings need modest lubrication...the cylinder/ring interface does not last long without lubrication. The matter up for debate is how much oil per unit time becomes unacceptable. If I can run for 96 hours and have a total use of 10ml that becomes 2.5 ml per day. The limiting factor for any modern air cooled engine of aluminum construction will be the barrel temperature at the base of the fins just short of the head/cylinder interface in which the rings would normally run. Ensuring that the temperature never gets more than 250F to 260F or so for conventional oils or 20F higher than that for synthetics. Oils need to be above 220F to volatilize water in the oil and to have the additive package neutralize acidic reactions of the residual sulfur and other fractional elements of conventional oils. Cooling airflow is therefore targeted to keep these oil temps between 220 and 280F. "Heavy" loads that do not significantly drop the RPMs such as zero turn hydraulic or constant speed applications such as carbureted generators or aircraft IC engines will operate just fine in ambient elevated temperatures less than 100 degrees or so. Fuel injected aircraft can manage temperatures by running rich of peak using fuel to cool or lean of peak using air to cool....something any carbureted engine will not be able to take advantage of. Aircraft have the added advantage of adiabatic lapse rate cooling as altitudes increase.
"I really should have used non synthetic on the initial 10 hour change... time will tell.". Break in is always done with non-detergent oil and loaded right from the start. No babying allowed. Used to rebuild VW engines and was fortunate enough to live on top of a hill in PA. Straight weight 30 and run it just enough to get to the road and coast down to the bottom engine off. Fire it up and back up the hill in third gear wide open. The rings would be well seated after two runs. Same for aircraft with variable pitch props and injection...right after take off you increase the pitch so the engine is loaded, watch the cylinder head temps and manage the EGT. Don't run way rich as combustion by product will glaze the cylinders...run it just past peak egt on the last cylinder to peak (they don't do it all together generally) and always wide open for peak cylinder pressures. These are big jugs and will take a bit to seat. You can tell when each cylinder has seated by watching the head temps as they will suddenly drop 30 to 40 degrees.....if you can call 5 minutes sudden. These temps aren't instantaneous.