NEW 1080P Wifi Video Doorbell!

Interesting, from what I remember the doorbell Web Interface has been stripped down to pretty much bare bones options in all firmware versions but it's been a while since I've looked at one with the original firmware. At any rate I've linked the original firmware below:

Box

Let me know if that doesn't get it working.
 
Interesting, from what I remember the doorbell Web Interface has been stripped down to pretty much bare bones options in all firmware versions but it's been a while since I've looked at one with the original firmware. At any rate I've linked the original firmware below:

Box

Let me know if that doesn't get it working.

Thanks - this seemed to get it working again! I didn't see the storage tab, but when I went to replay videos, it definitely worked. Thanks again!
 
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Well I've figured it out guys. Thank you so much for all the suggestions. It was this little setting in BI. I'm now getting the full fps which is 12 which seemingly I can't change any higher in the web interface since the latest FW posted here yesterday.View attachment 25804
Thank you very much i was having problem and with this came the solution,Thanks again.
 
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A bit disappointed after a few months. The night view is getting more awful by the week. There is a lens flare visible in the middle only at night. Is this something what can be fixed?
If have added 3 images from the start of using the doorbell in January till now!
 

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A bit disappointed after a few months. The night view is getting more awful by the week. There is a lens flare visible in the middle only at night. Is this something what can be fixed?
If have added 3 images from the start of using the doorbell in January till now!

Mine has done the same. My street does not have street lights so I leave a 100 Watt LED outdoor porch light on all night. This keeps the camera on color mode all night and it looks pretty good. The only negative is that if someone where to walk past the porch light, the camera may have a difficult time getting a clear shot of the individual but having a blurry night time lens wouldn’t be any better...
 
A bit disappointed after a few months. The night view is getting more awful by the week. There is a lens flare visible in the middle only at night. Is this something what can be fixed?
If have added 3 images from the start of using the doorbell in January till now!
Looks like condensation. Have you examined with a flashlight during the time of this "lens flare" ?
 
Looks like condensation. Have you examined with a flashlight during the time of this "lens flare" ?
During daytime you see a small blurry spot in the middle of the lens, see images attached. In daytime quality is okay but also a light flare is visible!
In case of condensation, how to fix this. The camera is waterproof so no condensation should be shown!
 

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That first image of the outside is not clear enough (out of focus?) to discern if it's condensation.
If it is, in fact, condensation, it can occur under certain circumstances none of which are considered acceptable but it does happen.
There are threads about different video doorbells where the issue is discussed, perhaps even somewhere in this thread.
 
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@WilRC I can't tell from the picture of the doorbell because it's blurry but did you remove the film that's on the black IR ring around the lens?

A lot of people I've talked to didn't know it was there, after removing it helped clear up the night image.

You also may want to make sure the faceplate of the doorbell is pushed down all the way and the screw is in place that holds it on.
 
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Hi Ryan, I disassembled the doorbell and indeed there was a film on the black IR ring. I removed it. Further, I cleaned the cap inside, it was condensation. Put doorbell back together. The night view is better but not perfect. It will work for this moment but it should not happen that the doorbell has moisture inside!
 

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That's a lot better. The doorbells are supposed to be IP54 rated which means:

The "5" in IP54 means (solids): Limited protection against dust ingress. (no harmful deposit)
The "4" in IP54 means (liquids): Protected against splash water from any direction.

but we've seen more than one with condensation on the inside of the lens...
 
FWIW, I had some extra time today and threw together the attachment. It tries to address some of the technical aspects behind wiring up doorbells in general, some specifics in wiring the DB1, and culminates in describing an electronic circuit that can be used to extend the minimal delay between chime tones from the DB1. Figures in the write-up are left as hand drawn sketches - fancier ones would have been a lot more work to prepare.

EDIT (31 Oct 2018): Replaced the attachment with Rev A. This corrects the identified errata and also tries to clarify a few areas.
Thanks for the well done write up! I just found it after doing a bunch of work on this myself. I thought I would solve the electronic doorbell problem by using an isolating relay (24VAC, but 16V is enough to pull it in). and another 16V transformer. Another benefit of using the relay (for me) was to allow the 2nd set of contacts to drive an input to my SmartThings thus allowing for automation, e.g. turn on lights when doorbell is pressed. The concept seems fine, but apparently the DB1 (EZVIZ) does not hold the relay in long enough to reliably trigger the chime. I thought that a relay coil would be enough like a mechanical chime that this would work. I can hear the relay pull in every time the button is pressed, but the chime only sounds intermittently. Can you offer any suggestions?
 
Hi Ryan, I disassembled the doorbell and indeed there was a film on the black IR ring. I removed it. Further, I cleaned the cap inside, it was condensation. Put doorbell back together. The night view is better but not perfect. It will work for this moment but it should not happen that the doorbell has moisture inside!

What I do, is put a (small) bag of silica gel hidden within that lens body (I have a slightly different camera "dome", it just fits well underneath the ring of the cap. Every 2-3 months, I remove that gel, put it in the microwave for 10 seconds to "vaporize" all heat and then put it back in the ring.

Works well with our European moesson season weather conditions (hot & moisty).

Happy camming!
CC
 
...I thought I would solve the electronic doorbell problem by using an isolating relay (24VAC, but 16V is enough to pull it in). and another 16V transformer. Another benefit of using the relay (for me) was to allow the 2nd set of contacts to drive an input to my SmartThings thus allowing for automation, e.g. turn on lights when doorbell is pressed. The concept seems fine, but apparently the DB1 (EZVIZ) does not hold the relay in long enough to reliably trigger the chime. I thought that a relay coil would be enough like a mechanical chime that this would work. I can hear the relay pull in every time the button is pressed, but the chime only sounds intermittently. Can you offer any suggestions?
I want to say that someone had measured the doorbell "on" time and it was about 150mSec, but I don't have a reference source for that. It's certainly a short period of time, and is the reason for the "pulse stretcher" circuit in my wiring writeup.

One thought is having a 24V relay driven by 16V may likely cause it to pull in slower than normal. 2nd, what is the VA rating of the 16V transformer and how old is it? A newer, heftier transformer might help make sure the voltage stays on the higher side when it has a load on it. 3rd, and I'm grasping at a straw here, would be to make sure the chime is clean of dust and anything else that hinders the chime solenoids from operating smoothly.
 
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I want to say that someone had measured the doorbell "on" time and it was about 150mSec, but I don't have a reference source for that. It's certainly a short period of time, and is the reason for the "pulse stretcher" circuit in my wiring writeup.

One thought is having a 24V relay driven by 16V may likely cause it to pull in slower than normal. 2nd, what is the VA rating of the 16V transformer and how old is it? A newer, heftier transformer might help make sure the voltage stays on the higher side when it has a load on it. 3rd, and I'm grasping at a straw here, would be to make sure the chime is clean of dust and anything else that hinders the chime solenoids from operating smoothly.
Thanks so much for your reply. I am working on adapting your stretcher circuit and plan a long post about my journey once the project is successful! Going through your document, I did not find what value you came up with for R4. Can you tell me what you used for it?
 
Thanks so much for your reply. I am working on adapting your stretcher circuit and plan a long post about my journey once the project is successful! Going through your document, I did not find what value you came up with for R4. Can you tell me what you used for it?
Good catch. Sorry about that. The schematic in my design notebook shows a value of 510 ohms for R4, but I can envision that value being dependent on the SSR that is being used.
 
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