He did and he reviewed it even. That is the half in ceiling type. I have no ceilings there, but the optics and chip is the same. So image quality will be the same.
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New Dahua install
- Thread starter j4co
- Start date
And i now have the nvr 
Edit: and 2 x 6TB WD purple hdd's so i will have 20 TB space together wih the 2 old 4TB purple drives i have in de hikvision setup in the current house.
Edit: and 2 x 6TB WD purple hdd's so i will have 20 TB space together wih the 2 old 4TB purple drives i have in de hikvision setup in the current house.
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So i finally ordered the ptz cameras. Decided to go for the sd49225-hn due to cost.
All the posts about the autotracking of HNI verisons of the 5xxx series did not convince me in investing almost the double amount.
As written above i will hook up IR line sensors along the fences upper part and steer both ptz to the part that alarms, en in normal position cover the back garden in overview.
I am now busy in finalyzing the contracts for the work on the house. Building will start in week 48 of this year.
All the posts about the autotracking of HNI verisons of the 5xxx series did not convince me in investing almost the double amount.
As written above i will hook up IR line sensors along the fences upper part and steer both ptz to the part that alarms, en in normal position cover the back garden in overview.
I am now busy in finalyzing the contracts for the work on the house. Building will start in week 48 of this year.
mat200
IPCT Contributor
- Jan 17, 2017
- 15,398
- 25,951
Hi j4co,
Sounds like you're soon ready for some fun when they put up the framing!
I've made some notes esp for new construction, let me know if I should add anything.
Thanks!
New Construction additional notes:
- Before the drywall goes up is the most affordable time to add wiring. Pull wires to all locations you may use - better to over do it now than under do it.
- Pull N+1+ cat5e/cat6 wires to each location, N=the number you plan to use, pull at least one extra line.
- Remember to add wiring for alarms, extra electrical sockets to support your security cameras, media center, data center ( that's where your switch, NVR, NAS will be ), as well as the front entrance, wifi access points and routers, voice control units like Echo Dot, speaker/audio wiring,..
- Pull electrical and several cat5e/cat6 lines to your front gate area. ( 2 sets of underground conduit is best - one for electrical the other data/cat5e/cat6 )
- Plan for the option to install video intercom / video doorbell by the front door and gate. ( example of such a product http://www1.dahuasecurity.com/pro...-7391.html ) Plan for future upgrades as this tech is changing quickly.
- Have the electricians install METAL boxes - I have seen too many subcontractors and later tenants break plastic gang boxes.
- Inspect the job site regularly - even daily, Inspect for straightness and squares, many subcontractors measure only once...
- Consider hiring an independent inspector to help you.
- "Wireless connections are for devices that run on batteries. Everything that can be wired should be. Save yourself and others from years of connectivity problems and run network cables to your office, bedrooms, media center, and locations where you want to install wifi access points. Unless you like slow speeds and intermittent connections." - from another forum
Thank you for the helpfull tips, but ...
We live in Europa country: Netherlands.
House what we built is with stones and concrete and little wood (ceiling of the 2nd floor, stairs, and the inside doors)
So concrete floor under the house on 10 meter long poles.
Inside walls are from limestone blocks and the floor of the 2nd floor is on the limestone wall.
All the electra tubes are made in the limstone walls and the concrete floor. For the outside cameras the have the tube running on the basic layer of the concrete floor sticking out from the limestone wall.
When the inside walls are op to the roof, they start building the outside walls (first insolation layer between inside and outside wall) and the tubes sticks out through the outside wall.
Imwill than for the cameras connect the mount to the outside mount. Pult the cat6 wires through.
Inside al wires go to the technical rooms. We have 3x technical rooms:
1) utlility room near the entry door (elctrica, water, internet etc coming into the house in there, measure device of the utilitys are there)
2) heatpump room in the back of the garage. (Outside sensors will enter there and i will have the power unit for the sensors)
3) tech room at 3rd floor where the air system heat recovery unit, sun panels converter, nas units comes.
Between all these room a 8x cat6 run. All ground floor (1st floor for the English speakers i think) cameras to the ground floor utility cabinet.
Rest of outside tubes coming in to the 3rd floor tech room. So there (1 and 3) are the POE switches to feed cameras.
Inside the house in the limestone and concrete there are all pvc based electric boxes. That is standard here.
For outside all tubes will stick out of wall, and dahua mounts will be mounted over them.
Fence sensors are exiting the ground floor back tech room under the floor and than comes up above the ground through a pole inside and than exit the pole behind the sensor.
No tubes visable on walls etc is the goal. Only exception will be the pole of the car port where one sensor should be installed. If needed a thin something for the 4 wires.
As for the built, we have a inspector that visits site every day for us. He is an ex builder who does this kind of job now (make more easy money i guess) Imlive also close to the build.
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Andy shipped the lasts camera's to me.
3 more IPC-HDW5231R-Z and 2 SD49225T-HN
Construction starts next week..
3 more IPC-HDW5231R-Z and 2 SD49225T-HN
Construction starts next week..
Today the first concrete pole went into the ground.
This is a 1st 20x20 cm pole which is 10 meters long. Only the upper 40 cm is above the ground.
There will be 29 poles in total and they make a sort of steelwork connection over the tops of the pool (each pole has 4 long steel things inside and the concrete top will be removed) this iron/steel conection will be inside concrete they put around it.
Update: all poles are in the ground and the heads are chopped off.
This concrete layer with steel inside is the base of the house. They put a concrete element floor on top and on that they built the inside walls up.
The outside wall is also building on the concrete base with 28 cm room (18 cm isolation layer and 10 cm air)
Update 29-12
I ordered the protection tubes for the sensors outside.
These are 40 mm outside and like 30 mm internal with a pulling wire. About 1€ each meter with free delivery here locally.
The water side contractor (heating, plumbing, sewer, drainage etc) will put them in so they will end up in the utilitys cabinet (that is where the electicity, water and telecom enters the house also). They will run under the house floor and exit on the side through the foundation through 50 mm holes so they have minimum run outside the house.
Edit 12-01-2018
The woodwork for the foundation was completed today.
The iron part was lowered between the wooden side panels, and concrete will be poored in on Monday.
You can see the part in the iron weaponing structure where the water, electricity and telecom cabling should enter through. The other holes in the foundation will be made by the contractor for the water/heat side of the installation.
That are holes like these ones:
There I can put the red tubes through and than close the gaps with sealant so the stuff is water tight.
The concrete was put in yesterday and today the woon panels are removed.
Tomorrow the plumbing work which goes under the floor and my outer tubes go in and the floor will be put in on Friday.
The under floor plumbing pipes are put in.
The colored ones are for water, electricity, telecom. The red flexible ones are for the sensors.
This is a 1st 20x20 cm pole which is 10 meters long. Only the upper 40 cm is above the ground.
There will be 29 poles in total and they make a sort of steelwork connection over the tops of the pool (each pole has 4 long steel things inside and the concrete top will be removed) this iron/steel conection will be inside concrete they put around it.
Update: all poles are in the ground and the heads are chopped off.
This concrete layer with steel inside is the base of the house. They put a concrete element floor on top and on that they built the inside walls up.
The outside wall is also building on the concrete base with 28 cm room (18 cm isolation layer and 10 cm air)
Update 29-12
I ordered the protection tubes for the sensors outside.
These are 40 mm outside and like 30 mm internal with a pulling wire. About 1€ each meter with free delivery here locally.
The water side contractor (heating, plumbing, sewer, drainage etc) will put them in so they will end up in the utilitys cabinet (that is where the electicity, water and telecom enters the house also). They will run under the house floor and exit on the side through the foundation through 50 mm holes so they have minimum run outside the house.
Edit 12-01-2018
The woodwork for the foundation was completed today.
The iron part was lowered between the wooden side panels, and concrete will be poored in on Monday.
You can see the part in the iron weaponing structure where the water, electricity and telecom cabling should enter through. The other holes in the foundation will be made by the contractor for the water/heat side of the installation.
That are holes like these ones:
There I can put the red tubes through and than close the gaps with sealant so the stuff is water tight.
The concrete was put in yesterday and today the woon panels are removed.
Tomorrow the plumbing work which goes under the floor and my outer tubes go in and the floor will be put in on Friday.
The under floor plumbing pipes are put in.
The colored ones are for water, electricity, telecom. The red flexible ones are for the sensors.
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They are about ready to pour the concrete layer on top of the systemfloor they built.
Concrete T shaped bars reenforced with steel and they have styrophor like floor elements (called "broodjes" in local language) and there is a iron layer on top of that to re enforce the concrete.
In the middle the utilitys "room" is made where the water, electricity and internet will be brought into the house.
You can also see one black and one red parts out of the tubes coming out of the concrete fundation.
The central part ones are onder the flooring of the utilities room, which can be lifted and than some more 40mm holes will be drilled to get them above the floor again.
So my power box will go in that utilitys room and power the sensors. The alarm lines to the nvr will go thought the house cabling system. Hopefully that will work, but i have no experience there.
Otherwise i need to bring signal wire up to the 2nd floor.
And here the concrete is put on top.
Concrete T shaped bars reenforced with steel and they have styrophor like floor elements (called "broodjes" in local language) and there is a iron layer on top of that to re enforce the concrete.
In the middle the utilitys "room" is made where the water, electricity and internet will be brought into the house.
You can also see one black and one red parts out of the tubes coming out of the concrete fundation.
The central part ones are onder the flooring of the utilities room, which can be lifted and than some more 40mm holes will be drilled to get them above the floor again.
So my power box will go in that utilitys room and power the sensors. The alarm lines to the nvr will go thought the house cabling system. Hopefully that will work, but i have no experience there.
Otherwise i need to bring signal wire up to the 2nd floor.
And here the concrete is put on top.
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Firefighter
Getting comfortable
- Jun 18, 2014
- 218
- 315
So is the red flex piping under that top layer of concrete an open void? Like crawling space or was it filled in too?
Always interesting to see other countries construction ways. Those red tubes we call Smurf Tubes here because ours normally run Blue. But sometimes orange like this one where we installed a bunch of them
for future proofing.
https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4620/39466988025_6fb1f85de9_b.jpg
I came in to say prewire prewire prewire like has already been mentioned but it certainly isn't built like tooth picks like he mentioned. lol
Always interesting to see other countries construction ways. Those red tubes we call Smurf Tubes here because ours normally run Blue. But sometimes orange like this one where we installed a bunch of them
for future proofing.
https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4620/39466988025_6fb1f85de9_b.jpg
I came in to say prewire prewire prewire like has already been mentioned but it certainly isn't built like tooth picks like he mentioned. lol
There is crawl space, but now swimming space due to the ground water level.
This is how the inside wall look overe here. This is i think called limestone.
For the elctric wires they take out the pipe diametre with a device, put the pipe in and plaster over it.
Another layer of clay based brick will be on the outside with 150 mm thick isolation layer and some air gap in between.
This is how the inside wall look overe here. This is i think called limestone.
For the elctric wires they take out the pipe diametre with a device, put the pipe in and plaster over it.
Another layer of clay based brick will be on the outside with 150 mm thick isolation layer and some air gap in between.
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Some progress to report.
First floor is on the walls and the water and electricity guy made their pipes.
Some of them are for the cameras. I will make some more detailed photo's when the outside brick layer is at the pipe position.
First floor is on the walls and the water and electricity guy made their pipes.
Some of them are for the cameras. I will make some more detailed photo's when the outside brick layer is at the pipe position.
The first floor is filled up with concrete and the inner limestone walls are buit.
The wiring for the cameras is in place, and the outer wall will by built around it, so only tube sticks out the wall.
This is the front wall where the sd-22202 mini ptz will go.
You see the white limestone, the flex tube coming through the piece of wood (will be removed, was there for the concrete pouring, so it would stay on the floor) Pipe through the concrete is not of the flexible type. This is the end piece so the outer wall construction people can fit it through the isolation layer, and the brick wall at the correct height.
Than a picture of the rear side. Here the felxible tube comes out on the corner to be able to go in on the corner mount of the 25x ptz here. Left and right side is the box for the wall mounted lights.
The wiring for the cameras is in place, and the outer wall will by built around it, so only tube sticks out the wall.
This is the front wall where the sd-22202 mini ptz will go.
You see the white limestone, the flex tube coming through the piece of wood (will be removed, was there for the concrete pouring, so it would stay on the floor) Pipe through the concrete is not of the flexible type. This is the end piece so the outer wall construction people can fit it through the isolation layer, and the brick wall at the correct height.
Than a picture of the rear side. Here the felxible tube comes out on the corner to be able to go in on the corner mount of the 25x ptz here. Left and right side is the box for the wall mounted lights.
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Long overdue update.
It looks like a house now with roof tiles, windows etc.
The tubes with ethernet stick out of the front side wall left and right (clearly visable) side for the mini ptz. And high on the wall (between the 4 windows on the 2nd floor) for the IR light (as that min ptz does not have ir)
It looks like a house now with roof tiles, windows etc.
The tubes with ethernet stick out of the front side wall left and right (clearly visable) side for the mini ptz. And high on the wall (between the 4 windows on the 2nd floor) for the IR light (as that min ptz does not have ir)
looney2ns
IPCT Contributor
From outside to inside
10 cm brick
3 cm air gap
15 cm rockfit mono silver 344b https://static.rockwool.com/globala...hnisch-productblad-rockfit-mono-silver-nl.pdf
10 cm 'kalkzandsteen' which is called limestone in English
4-5 mm stucco / wall plaster
This results in. Rc of the wall of 4.86 where 4.5 is minimum
The windows are 3 layers of glass with Ul=0.5
The roof has to be Rc =6
Flat part (top) is 2 layers of 7 cm of kingspan therma tr26 dop https://az750602.vo.msecnd.net/netx...013_TR26_002_EN-1046_CPR_2014_TR26_002_EN.pdf that is 2x3.15 which exceeds the 6.0 needed
The sloped roofs have isolation unknown with me, but i assume they are just a bit netter than 6.0 also.
There is a ground water heat pump system of 9 kW from Alpha Innotek (German/Swiss brand, part of Nibe group)
This is for house heating/cooling by tubes inside the floor. And also for shower/bath/kitchen warm water.
I have air energy recovery system from Itho daalderop called qualitflow. This is 97% efficient. This is per room air out and in central part of the house fresh pre heated/cooled air is blown in.
Will get sunpower solar panels. Needed 5" cell panels, and was limited to Sunpower, Panasonic and BenQ for that. Sunpower was not the cheapest, but seems to be the best panel there is.malso highest power ones as my roof size is limited.
Edit: i also tried to seal off the inner layer of the house with air-tight treatment.
This is called blowerproof liquid, and is from Belgium company Hevadex.
This is example of the wooden 'stelkozijn ' part of the window on which they mount the pvc windows.
This wood is like 4 cm thick and mounts against the limestone inner wall.
There is the isolation material around it and the outside wall on the outer end.
That wooden part is put in measured out, and the wall is not always straight. So they fill it up with a kind of foam called PUR in Dutch (Polyurethaan)
You can see a stripe in between the black wood and the limestone which is a bit rough.
This blowerproof is a thick liquid which you strike over it and it forms a air and water tight membrane over the potential air leak.
10 cm brick
3 cm air gap
15 cm rockfit mono silver 344b https://static.rockwool.com/globala...hnisch-productblad-rockfit-mono-silver-nl.pdf
10 cm 'kalkzandsteen' which is called limestone in English
4-5 mm stucco / wall plaster
This results in. Rc of the wall of 4.86 where 4.5 is minimum
The windows are 3 layers of glass with Ul=0.5
The roof has to be Rc =6
Flat part (top) is 2 layers of 7 cm of kingspan therma tr26 dop https://az750602.vo.msecnd.net/netx...013_TR26_002_EN-1046_CPR_2014_TR26_002_EN.pdf that is 2x3.15 which exceeds the 6.0 needed
The sloped roofs have isolation unknown with me, but i assume they are just a bit netter than 6.0 also.
There is a ground water heat pump system of 9 kW from Alpha Innotek (German/Swiss brand, part of Nibe group)
This is for house heating/cooling by tubes inside the floor. And also for shower/bath/kitchen warm water.
I have air energy recovery system from Itho daalderop called qualitflow. This is 97% efficient. This is per room air out and in central part of the house fresh pre heated/cooled air is blown in.
Will get sunpower solar panels. Needed 5" cell panels, and was limited to Sunpower, Panasonic and BenQ for that. Sunpower was not the cheapest, but seems to be the best panel there is.malso highest power ones as my roof size is limited.
Edit: i also tried to seal off the inner layer of the house with air-tight treatment.
This is called blowerproof liquid, and is from Belgium company Hevadex.
This is example of the wooden 'stelkozijn ' part of the window on which they mount the pvc windows.
This wood is like 4 cm thick and mounts against the limestone inner wall.
There is the isolation material around it and the outside wall on the outer end.
That wooden part is put in measured out, and the wall is not always straight. So they fill it up with a kind of foam called PUR in Dutch (Polyurethaan)
You can see a stripe in between the black wood and the limestone which is a bit rough.
This blowerproof is a thick liquid which you strike over it and it forms a air and water tight membrane over the potential air leak.
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ermac
Getting the hang of it
I will post images of the installed Dahua cameras once they are mounted.
Next week the installer will hook up the mounts to the walls.
Only in the front of the house there is only one UTP coming out of the tube high up under the roof area (one each side of the house), and i did put my air tight layer also on the wires into the tubes, so no way to add another one
As i use passive POE for the IR lamps, i ordered ISDN splitters (same rj-45 connector) so i can split the cable (no handshake, the power is on with that midspan i have)
This way one cable should become 2 cables.
Under the carport i seem to have one additional utp cable. Here i will add one more IR lamp because i have it.
I intend to run one of the 2 cameras in IR and the other in color mode. I hope to have the nest results that way. For the IR than there is an additional 10 watts IR 1 meter above the camera.
Next week the installer will hook up the mounts to the walls.
Only in the front of the house there is only one UTP coming out of the tube high up under the roof area (one each side of the house), and i did put my air tight layer also on the wires into the tubes, so no way to add another one
As i use passive POE for the IR lamps, i ordered ISDN splitters (same rj-45 connector) so i can split the cable (no handshake, the power is on with that midspan i have)
This way one cable should become 2 cables.
Under the carport i seem to have one additional utp cable. Here i will add one more IR lamp because i have it.
I intend to run one of the 2 cameras in IR and the other in color mode. I hope to have the nest results that way. For the IR than there is an additional 10 watts IR 1 meter above the camera.
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