New House, outdoor rough wiring for security cameras

That is a 3231 HDCVI Starlight, similar in most ways to the 5231 IP version...
 
I had a brief intro/walk through with the guy today and he was pretty helpful. He said his pricing is kind of firm because he has to kick some money back to the builder (not sure if this is accurate). For the 2nd floor I am asking them to run conduit (should I go with 2 or 1 inch?) into the attic and have it terminate where I can reach it standing up. -Doing this, I should be able to run my cables up to the attic and down the conduit that runs into the basement
 
tufan123 said:
I had a brief intro/walk through with the guy today and he was pretty helpful. He said his pricing is kind of firm because he has to kick some money back to the builder (not sure if this is accurate). For the 2nd floor I am asking them to run conduit (should I go with 2 or 1 inch?) into the attic and have it terminate where I can reach it standing up. -Doing this, I should be able to run my cables up to the attic and down the conduit that runs into the basement
Click to expand...

HI Tufan,

Yes - the main builder iirc typically gets 10-20% markup.

1 " will be too small imho - I did 2x 1.5" pipes - but my place is a lot smaller. Will depend on how many cables you are sending down the tube, definitely error on the side of a more area in the conduit.
 
I would say if in doubt go larger. It leaves room for more / larger cables in the future and as I said above, increases your chance of successfully pulling cables through should they need replacing. Also as I said, I'd ask him to use radius arcs and NOT 90 degrees bends for the same reason.

I'm not sure what others experience is of this, but if running power for security lighting, I'd say ask them to run the power and ethernet separately in different conduits. It's more expensive, but you reduce the risk of interference from the power cable. You can buy shielded ethernet cables, but then again if the shielding doesn't keep 100% of the transients out, you could find the security side compromised with interference. Again, the fix is more expensive than doing it right initially.
 
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mat200 said:
HI Tufan,

Yes - the main builder iirc typically gets 10-20% markup.

1 " will be too small imho - I did 2x 1.5" pipes - but my place is a lot smaller. Will depend on how many cables you are sending down the tube, definitely error on the side of a more area in the conduit.
Click to expand...
(2) 1.5" conduits might be easier to install than (1) 2". Conduits between floors will need to be fire sealed.
 
Holy smokes!...

I have not thought too much, but looks like there's potentially a LOT more low voltage wiring for the "smart home" ...


" ...
If you’re doing a new install, you should put in power lines, two CAT6 Ethernet cables, HDMI, coax cables, and phone jacks to every “entertainment point” as a minimum. And make sure you still leave some empty conduits for retrofits in the future.

3. Home Automation Cables
I’ve just listed a number of entertainment needs, but what about home automation?

Experts generally agree that you should install a CAT7 cable to every sensor point in your home. That includes thermostat temperature sensors, presence detectors, smart switches, water detectors, and so on.... "

Ref:
6 Vital Ways to Future-Proof Your Smart Home

( I'm not too certain about phone jacks and coax... guess conduit would be the way to go... )
 
mat200 said:
Holy smokes!...

I have not thought too much, but looks like there's potentially a LOT more low voltage wiring for the "smart home" ...


" ...
If you’re doing a new install, you should put in power lines, two CAT6 Ethernet cables, HDMI, coax cables, and phone jacks to every “entertainment point” as a minimum. And make sure you still leave some empty conduits for retrofits in the future.

3. Home Automation Cables
I’ve just listed a number of entertainment needs, but what about home automation?

Experts generally agree that you should install a CAT7 cable to every sensor point in your home. That includes thermostat temperature sensors, presence detectors, smart switches, water detectors, and so on.... "

Ref:
6 Vital Ways to Future-Proof Your Smart Home

( I'm not too certain about phone jacks and coax... guess conduit would be the way to go... )
Click to expand...
meh conduit is the only thing that's future proof. Unfinished basement == 2/3 of the house is fairly easily accessible after construction.

'experts' will happily spend your money on all sorts of cabling you may never use
 
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