New RCA HSDB2A 3MP Doorbell IP Camera

Sage Sensor is a Zigbee device but it will require a hub. It is a discontinued model however there are hundred of it available on E-bay when I last checked for average at 5 dollar a piece.

I am using it with Hubitat hub - Hubitat Elevation™ | Local, Reliable, Fast and Private Home Automation and it works great. There is also a driver it for it on SmartThing hub and when I last checked in Home Assistance chatroom that they were working on a sage port for Home Assistance hub.
I can confirm it works fine in Home Assistant with a zigbee controller
 
Thank you so much for your reply David. I'm alone so it's tough to press the button outside and read the multimeter at the same time ;) But just to be safe, I have ordered a 16v 30va transformer which will arrive tomorrow. I had already purchased and installed a new 16v 10va transformer which did not fix the problem . Hopefully the 30va transformer gets my indoor chime working again. It's just strange that everything was working fine for months before this happened. Thanks again for your reply.
Smart move, yeah mine worked fine on a 16v 10va too but I changed it out since I planned to stream 24/7. Figured the extra load would give me problems.
16v 30va works great...Not one hiccup...
 
I added the Hikvision version and updated it to the latest firmware. Then decided to add it to my DS-7716NXI-I4 / 16P/4S via IP to one of the NVR POE ports. Well after a few hours it caused the NVR to reboot every few minutes. Anyone seen this before?
 
I added the Hikvision version and updated it to the latest firmware. Then decided to add it to my DS-7716NXI-I4 / 16P/4S via IP to one of the NVR POE ports. Well after a few hours it caused the NVR to reboot every few minutes. Anyone seen this before?
What Doorbell do you have? Did you connect via ONVIF?
 
  • Like
Reactions: phatboyj
The Hikvision version (DS-HD1), connected via the instructions. Page 9 of the manual, which uses their protocol.

View attachment 59050
Ok thanks, this may be a Hikvision support call. I am going to back out since I have neither the Hik DB or Hik NVR and will let others chime in.
 
  • Like
Reactions: phatboyj
Hi, for those who use the EZViz DB1, a few questions:

1. What rating transformer finally worked? I've replaced my old transformer with a 16V and it blew after a few seconds of operation. Will 24V work?
2. For now, I've disconnected the chimes (due to buzzing). I'll try adding the 10ohm resistor later after the rest stabilizes. EZViz states that if we don't have a chime, then we should add the fuse wire to the bell. Why is that? This is a low voltage line anyway. My problem is that the fuse wire is huge and there is no place to install it where the doorbell exists.
 
Hi, for those who use the EZViz DB1, a few questions:

1. What rating transformer finally worked? I've replaced my old transformer with a 16V and it blew after a few seconds of operation. Will 24V work?
2. For now, I've disconnected the chimes (due to buzzing). I'll try adding the 10ohm resistor later after the rest stabilizes. EZViz states that if we don't have a chime, then we should add the fuse wire to the bell. Why is that? This is a low voltage line anyway. My problem is that the fuse wire is huge and there is no place to install it where the doorbell exists.
Depending on the transformer the 10 ohms resistance prevents the transformer from shortening and burning out when pressing the doorbell. In the Netherlands a typical doorbell transformer is wired with a higher resistance wire preventing it from shortening. I am not sure if this is the case with eg. US transformers. So yes using the 10 ohms anywhere between the transformer and the doorbell is a good idea.
 
Hi, for those who use the EZViz DB1, a few questions:

1. What rating transformer finally worked? I've replaced my old transformer with a 16V and it blew after a few seconds of operation. Will 24V work?
2. For now, I've disconnected the chimes (due to buzzing). I'll try adding the 10ohm resistor later after the rest stabilizes. EZViz states that if we don't have a chime, then we should add the fuse wire to the bell. Why is that? This is a low voltage line anyway. My problem is that the fuse wire is huge and there is no place to install it where the doorbell exists.
1. 12V. 40VA
2. I have placed the fuse right at the transformer output.
 
Depending on the transformer the 10 ohms resistance prevents the transformer from shortening and burning out when pressing the doorbell. In the Netherlands a typical doorbell transformer is wired with a higher resistance wire preventing it from shortening. I am not sure if this is the case with eg. US transformers. So yes using the 10 ohms anywhere between the transformer and the doorbell is a good idea.

Thanks, if I may ask a few more basic questions: (I am in the US)

1. The 10 ohms resistor seems to be what I need to add between the front and trans of the chime. But if I just disable the chime for now, and put in a 24V 30VA transformer is that sufficient for now?

2. When I do enable the chime, I'll add the resistor in-between, but I'm confused how that helps the transformer (outside of the chime). From what I understand, the 120V wire comes to the transformer and then the transformer sends out low voltage wires to the chimes. So how would adding a resistor to the chime help the transformer?

Thank you.
 
1. 12V. 40VA
2. I have placed the fuse right at the transformer output.

Oh! You've put the EZ viz supplied fuse right at the transformer junction? I thought that was provided to protect the doorbell itself. In my case ,the darn doorbell is fine - keeps blowing my transformer(s).
 
Okay, so I looked at the wiring diagram at the start of the thread too. Here is what I plan to do:

1. My 10ohm resistors will arrive on sunday, so for now, I've disconnected both chimes (by disconnect, I mean front and trans wires are separated)
2. My EZVIZ DB1 is installed without the big fuse wire (no place for it at the doorbell point)
3. I plan to get my 30VA 24V transformer today and replace it.

Given the above situation, do you expect things will work? I don't want to blow another transformer. Or should I install the EZVIZ fuse at the transformer?

Next:

4. Once I get the 10ohm resistors, I plan to connect them between Front and Trans along with the wires. In this situation, do I still need the EZ VIZ power kit/damper?
 
Okay, so I looked at the wiring diagram at the start of the thread too. Here is what I plan to do:

1. My 10ohm resistors will arrive on sunday, so for now, I've disconnected both chimes (by disconnect, I mean front and trans wires are separated)
2. My EZVIZ DB1 is installed without the big fuse wire (no place for it at the doorbell point)
3. I plan to get my 30VA 24V transformer today and replace it.

Given the above situation, do you expect things will work? I don't want to blow another transformer. Or should I install the EZVIZ fuse at the transformer?

Next:

4. Once I get the 10ohm resistors, I plan to connect them between Front and Trans along with the wires. In this situation, do I still need the EZ VIZ power kit/damper?

4. YES, the Power Kit regulates the power needed between the Doorbell and Chime. If you did not have the power kit installed this would be the reason for your buzzing/humming.

How do you have your two chimes wired? Do they have their own transformers or running off of one? Are they Mechanical Chimes?

If you are using Chime(s) (Mechanical or Digital) you Need the Power Kit installed. If no Chimes, you need the resistor/fuse installed. Both are usually installed at the Chime. Since you have two Chimes I would think you need two power kits, one for each Chime but that depends on how they are wired.
 
If you are using Chime(s) (Mechanical or Digital) you Need the Power Kit installed. If no Chimes, you need the resistor/fuse installed.

This! Right here. So important for people to know during installation. Thanks David. Just to confirm, if you have the power kit installed with a mechanical chime, you do not need the resistor/fuse installed, correct?
 
This! Right here. So important for people to know during installation. Thanks David. Just to confirm, if you have the power kit installed with a mechanical chime, you do not need the resistor/fuse installed, correct?
Correct
 
  • Like
Reactions: Emiks5 and phatboyj
Hallo KlaverBoer.
Ik ben al een tijdje bezig om de Ezviz DB1 te contacten met mijn DS414 en no luck so far. Ik lees dat het jou wel gelukt is, dus mijn vraag, kan je me helpen?
Bij voorbaat dank
William

Hi William, because the preferred language is English on this forum. I will answer in English. @David L already translated my instruction. I've posted that instruction a while ago. That was before it was possible to use the ONVIF method. But now it is possible to add the camera to the Synology using ONVIF. The only thing you have to do is flashing the Laview FIrmware on your Ezviz DB1 so you can simply add your DB1 to the Synology. Unless you want to use Alexa or Google with your DB1, then you should stick with the DB1 firmware. Take a look at page 101 of this thread. Here you can find al lot of information and instructions.
 
Okay thanks: so to summarize/answer David's Qs:

1. Yes, I have a mechanical chime
2. The buzzing occurs even after I installed the power kit
3. My 120V goes to the transformer in the basement. That one transformer splits two low voltage wire sets to by basement chime and my first floor chime

So , If I understood DavidL correctly:

Part I (today)
1. Replace current blown transformer with new 30VA, 24V transformer
2. Disable both chimes (for now) by separating F/T wires
3. Attach EZVIZ fuse wire to new transformer, and then turn circuit back on

Part II (When I get my resistors)
1.Keep basement Chime off (I only have one power damper kit)
2. Add 10OHM resistors between F/T of first floor chime
3. Add EZViz Power Kit as well to first floor chime
4. Connect chime wires of first floor back to F/T

I should now have EZViz working with my first floor chime, with the power kit, and the fuse wire both installed (power kit in chime, fuse wire at output of trans)

Did I get that right?