The WDR setting under CCD doesn't always show up correctly in iVMS-4200. You will have better chance to see it if you try to remove your dbell and then add it back on in iVMS-4200.
New RCA HSDB2A 3MP Doorbell IP Camera
- Thread starter fleece
- Start date
Thank you for this info, good tip on battery disconnect.
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This is a known problem with iVMS-4200, try Batch Config Tool, link listed in Doorbell 101 (page 101) on this thread.
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@Pliable Pixels When you get your DB replacement you may want to bench test it first, a lot of us here did this before install. I wire nutted an old electrical cord to my trans. and plugged it in a wall sock. Just be sure you have a good WiFi signal at your bench.
We are rooting for you...
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We are rooting for you...
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@BeerNut did...He has a RCA DB
The Hik firmware does support ONVIF
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alexdelprete
Getting comfortable
Weird. I have the DB1 with the same fw version, latest EZVIZ android app, and the Chime menu has disappeared since the latest update of the app. I turned the Chime function on using another app, Guarding Vision, then uninstalled it because I prefer EZVIZ app.
Where do you see the new smart chime menu? In the functions menu or in the options menu?
Thanks for your help.
alexdelprete
Getting comfortable
I'm on his same fw version since quite some time, but don't see the chime option. It disappeared after I updated the EZVIZ android app.
alexdelprete
Getting comfortable
What's that old saying like? If it works, don't touch it.
I know the feeling of wanting to have all the devices and drivers to the latest version. But since regression tests are not a widely used practice in sw development world, often new versions introduce new issues.
Right now my DB1, Sage, Hubitat, all my Shelly devices and all the other smart devices are working fine, and I'm getting bored with this lockdown.
I Suspect that the Chime settings of the Ezviz app are only available upon original device setup
alexdelprete
Getting comfortable
Nope. I replaced my dead DB1 some weeks ago, and I reinstalled everything, updated DB1 to latest fw and latest android app: no chime menu. Had to use Guarding Vision to enable the electronic chime, otherwise my SAGE sensor wouldn't work.
Strange then, indeed
Sounds like a Bug as I'm pretty sure that is how they intended for it to work after removing the chime settings from the normal menu
or,
Maybe it only appears for new user registration then, Guessing
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Chadsturgill
Getting the hang of it
Anyone else having issues with Online access to their camera? Mine is up, my internet is fine, and I can stream via BI but in Guarding Vision, (EZVIZ Cloud backend) it says it’s offline. Going to reboot it but curious if anyone else is seeing similar issues?
Chadsturgill
Getting the hang of it
Folks, N3wb sent me one of his shell covers from a fried RCA to fix my PIr fresnel lens that someone pressed in thinking it was a button. I put a clear plastic cover over it to protect it. It’s actually the back of a badge real holder. However it doesn’t work now. I think the plastic interferes with the motion detection. On the PIR sensor is not working right now that I took it a part. Just thought I would share my results. I just use BI for motion now anyway and I left it this way for now. I used tape to hold it on. Will find a better solution at some point
Attachments
Hey Chad, so are people still pressing the wrong button? A few messages back a great discovery of being able to change out the doorbell button will hopefully help in this issue.
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Been using the MQTT-ONVIF add on for motion. Noticed that it works better for me than the wired PIR. Well also noticed that 50% if the delivery folks do not ring the doorbell.
Using the Alexa TTS application to announce the motion. Next is an auto pop up video on the Amazon show using Home Assistant.
Using the Alexa TTS application to announce the motion. Next is an auto pop up video on the Amazon show using Home Assistant.
klunkerbus
Getting the hang of it
After reading the thread to better understand the experiences people have had with electronic chimes, I now believe you pretty much HAVE to use the power kit with both a mechanical or electronic/digital chime. I'm tweaking my earlier theory about the chime kit. I now agree with @TechBill that the primary purpose of the chime kit is to keep as much voltage applied to the video doorbell as possible when the circuit is in standby/quiescent mode, regardless of the type of chime used. The fact that a chime kit also reduces the buzzing or chatter from a mechanical chime is a secondary benefit. Those interested in hearing more can read on. Others can skip the long read that follows.
Let me start with a minimal configuration with a mechanical chime. The transformer, video doorbell and chime are all in a series loop. In a series loop, the same current is flowing through each item. The voltage seen across the video doorbell and the voltage seen across the chime will depend on the output voltage of the transformer and the nature of the loads presented by the chime solenoid coil and the video doorbell - the voltages may very likely differ. That's the way it works in a series circuit. Will this lead to enough voltage at the video doorbell to adequately power it? The current draw of the video doorbell will vary; how extensively will the varying current flowing through the chime lead to buzzing & chatter? Will everything work as expected? There's no fixed answer to these questions. There's many reasons why this might not work out very well.
An initial "basic" fix that at least used to help ensure success was to add a fixed resistor across the chime. In our series loop in standby mode, this would reduce the voltage across the chime and apply more voltage to the video doorbell. On the good side, this would keep the video doorbell more effectively powered and reduce the buzz/chatter from the mechanical chime. On the bad side, the effectiveness of the mechanical chime will be reduced by the shunt resistor. It might only ring one tone instead of ringing two tones like it used to, and might not chime as loud.
My guess is that newer generation video doorbells draw considerably more current in order to handle faster and more complex processing. Without some sort of shunt across the chime, there would be even less voltage across these higher load video doorbells in our series loop. Again. that's just the way the science works. Getting back to the idea of a fixed resistor across the chime, reducing the value of the resistor would help redistribute the voltage between the chime and video doorbell, but you'd soon get to a point where the chime won't effectively work when the video doorbell tries to ring the chime because the transformer just can't drive the heavy load presented by the shunt resistor & chime.
So, what the chime kit does is act like a smart shunt or smart resistor that effectively shorts out the chime when the circuit is in standby/quiescent mode, but then goes to significantly higher resistance when the chime is supposed to ring. It does this by monitoring (and effectively limiting) the current flowing in the series loop. The net effect of all this is that when the circuit is in standby, most of the transformer voltage is applied across the video doorbell, ensuring how well it functions. When the video doorbell temporarily shorts out in order to ring the chime, the transformer has no problem driving the chime - much as it would in a dumb circuit with a mechanical button instead of a video doorbell.
Now let's transition to an electronic chime. As I described in an earlier post, these NORMALLY function by being continuously powered by one polarity in the low voltage AC power waveform. This is accomplished by wiring a diode across the mechanical button (and even some video doorbells like Ring). The electronic chimes are then triggered to play when the other polarity in the AC waveform is also applied. This happens when the mechanical button or the Ring-like video doorbell effectively shorts out the diode and the entire AC waveform is passed onto the chime.
Based on the oscilloscope waveforms earlier in the thread and chime observations that people have posted, that scheme gets thrown out when the HIK chime kit is used with an electronic chime. In standby/quiescent state, the chime kit is applying a low shunt resistance across the chime, basically keeping the chime powered off. When the video doorbell wants to ring the chime, the chime kit removes or increases the shunt resistance and the full low voltage waveform is applied to the chime. This a) powers up the chime and b) subsequently triggers playing the tune or what ever the chime is programmed to do. The powering-up explains why there might be a delay before the chime starts ringing, as some have noted. If the delay is long enough, some electronic chimes might not even start to ring before power is removed - especially if the video doorbell is set to a short chime duration. I didn't run across anyone stating so, but I would think that if the chime is programmed to a play a long tune, only a portion of it will actually play. If the video doorbell is set to a long chime duration and the chime is set to something short like a single tone, I would also think the chime would ring multiple times.
Anyway, that's my thinking.
Here kept the old chime in place which matched the voltage of the old transformer. Thinking it was 10 VAC. I upped the transformer for the video doorbell.
So when you press the doorbell button today the doorbell chime does sound funny a bit. Kind of a gong and clunk.
That said also have two circuits in place to connect the doorbell button to the alarm panel. These circuits are 12VDC powered. One is a current sensor doorbell circuit board which is an Elk 930. The other is a debounce board; Elk 960. The only connectivity from the doorbell voltage is for current sensing which is passive.
Had the Ring doorbell in place for a couple of months here and had no issues at all with the connectivity, chime and old transformer. The design of the Ring is totally different than that of the Hikvision doorbell.
So when you press the doorbell button today the doorbell chime does sound funny a bit. Kind of a gong and clunk.
That said also have two circuits in place to connect the doorbell button to the alarm panel. These circuits are 12VDC powered. One is a current sensor doorbell circuit board which is an Elk 930. The other is a debounce board; Elk 960. The only connectivity from the doorbell voltage is for current sensing which is passive.
Had the Ring doorbell in place for a couple of months here and had no issues at all with the connectivity, chime and old transformer. The design of the Ring is totally different than that of the Hikvision doorbell.
davidew98
Pulling my weight
I got my EZVIZ DB1 last week. It's installed and working great with the EZVIZ iOS app and 3 hour cloud storage. I started by updating the firmware in app to the latest US firmware 191211 and have RTSP worked perfectly with Image Encryption ON and using UN: admin & PW: ALL CAPS (Verification Code). I have my Alexa synced to EZVIZ skill and the DB1 comes up as a device but I have no Alexa Shows or Fire TVs so that'll have to wait. My old Ring dorbell I'm upgrading from used to at least make my Alexa say "someone's at the front door" when someone pushed the button and I was hoping the EZVIZ skill would do the same.
The biggest problem I'm having is sprinkled here as well as a response to a question on the EZVIZ website about the DB1 the EZVIZ employee said this doorbell supports 256 GB MicroSD cards with the latest firmware. I have tried both the latest US firmware and the latest EU firmware 200220 and neither will successfully initialize my new in box SanDisk MAX Endurance 256 GB MicroSD card. I started by pulling it out of box, plugging it in my computer, making sure it's empty and showed up good. I then plugged it in the camera and went into the EZVIZ iOS app and tried initializing it and it failed. I also tried the EZVIZ PC Studio and same thing, I also tried the iVMS software and it failed. I pulled the SD card back out of the camera and put it back in my computer and the card is now partitioned into 2 partitions with the first 128GB being FAT32 and the second 128GB being RAW (aka unformatted) Since these cards come out of the box as exFAT I thought the initalization process probably just got jacked up somewhere so I tried formatting it as 1 partition to FAT32 and tried in the camera again and still initialization failed.
Can someone on this forum who has a 256 GB card working in ANY of these cameras:
My old Ring dorbell I'm upgrading from used to at least make my Alexa say "someone's at the front door" when someone pushed the button and I was hoping the EZVIZ skill would do the same.The biggest problem I'm having is sprinkled here as well as a response to a question on the EZVIZ website about the DB1 the EZVIZ employee said this doorbell supports 256 GB MicroSD cards with the latest firmware. I have tried both the latest US firmware and the latest EU firmware 200220 and neither will successfully initialize my new in box SanDisk MAX Endurance 256 GB MicroSD card. I started by pulling it out of box, plugging it in my computer, making sure it's empty and showed up good. I then plugged it in the camera and went into the EZVIZ iOS app and tried initializing it and it failed. I also tried the EZVIZ PC Studio and same thing, I also tried the iVMS software and it failed. I pulled the SD card back out of the camera and put it back in my computer and the card is now partitioned into 2 partitions with the first 128GB being FAT32 and the second 128GB being RAW (aka unformatted) Since these cards come out of the box as exFAT I thought the initalization process probably just got jacked up somewhere so I tried formatting it as 1 partition to FAT32 and tried in the camera again and still initialization failed.
Can someone on this forum who has a 256 GB card working in ANY of these cameras:
- tell me which brand and version firmware your running
- pull the card out of the camera and plug it in the computer and bring up Windows Disk Manager and tell me how it's partitioned (1 or 2) and formatted (FAT32, exFAT, RAW, or something else)
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