New RCA HSDB2A 3MP Doorbell IP Camera

pete_c said:
What is the size of the AC doorbell transformer that you are using?

I upgraded my original transformer.
Click to expand...

I use a 8-24 VAC transformer that was listed on a smart home webshop as recommended/supported for the Ezviz DB1. I had to buy a new transformer because I didn't have another at home, my current doorbell is wireless.
I connected the doorbell to 12V and use a current sensing relay which I want to switch on if the doorbell is pressed. Exactly the same use case as @moista described on the last few pages of this thread.
 
my current doorbell is wireless.

So your doorbell button is not wired to your chime? Please do a quickie hand draw schematic of the doorbell button and wireless chime and your current redo to implement the Hikvision Doorbell and post it here.

Originally here had a 12VAC transformer that worked fine with my 12VAC chime. This configuration which worked fine with my Ring Doorbell did not work with the Hikvision Doorbell so I upgraded it the transfomer.

My old set up here using a combo ELK-930 (current sensing) and Elk-960 (debounce board) to integrate the doorbell with the Leviton OmniPro 2 panel. The Elk-930 current sensing board did not work well with the new doorbell such that I upgraded it per posts here on IPCam Talk.
 
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Regarding my current setup, there is not that much to draw. Just a wireless, battery powered push button which sends a 433 Mhz signal to a battery powered chime. So nothing I can or want to reuse from that setup.

This is what I'm trying to achieve (same setup as @moista as mentioned before):

circuit_basic.png

The push button is the DB1, the relay is a Satel 10-13vac relay:

relay.png

I haven't connected a chime yet, but since the relay only switches on or off that doesn't really matter for this test. Problem is that once the IR LEDs turn on, the relay swiches on and doesn't turn off again until I cut the power from the DB1.
 
Here had the same issue with the new video doorbell and old current sensor; installed new current sensor and then had to adjust it to work with the change in draw after the IR LEDs turned on. You would utilize the current sensor to enable your relay and would just have to tweak it a bit.

With the current sensor in place you would probably not need to use the power kit.

Might need a diode before the relay too.

Personally I would test this on a workbench before installing the doorbell outside.
 
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Unfortunately, I don't have one available so I am not able to try that.

Does it matter which chime type I select in the app? I tried electronic and mechanical and didn't notice any differences.
 
I would configure it as an electronic chime.

Here only utilize the app when I initially configured the video doorbell. They unregistered the Doorbell from the app and removed the app.
 
Yeah, that's what I intend to do as well. Configure once with the app, and then move it to my IoT VLAN and only make changes if necessary with the BCT. I think I'll start over and get myself a chime that is listed in the supported chimes list and see if I can get it working that way.
 
My current chime was a 12VAC chime and today sounds like a gong rather than a chime because of the voltage increase. That said with automation I do TTS

Once you have configured it with the Hikvision Batch Configuration program you will be all set. Here added a second admin user. Utilize IPSec VPN or OpenVPN to call home these days.

These days using VLANs or autonomous networks, managed switches, good router you can do just about anything with your home network.

Clients are easy to install on any smart phone (iOS, Android, Linux or Microsoft).

The Chime is considered a low voltage device so it would be easy to run some wires in the wall up or down from the chime to power it up and connect it to the doorbell button wires.
 
My current chime was a 12VAC chime and today sounds like a gong rather than a chime because of the voltage increase. That said with automation I do TTS

Once you have configured it with the Hikvision Batch Configuration program you will be all set. Here added a second admin user. Utilize IPSec VPN or OpenVPN to call home these days.

These days using VLANs or autonomous networks, managed switches, good router you can do just about anything with your home network.

Clients are easy to install on any smart phone (iOS, Android, Linux or Microsoft).

The Chime is considered a low voltage device so it would be easy to run some wires in the wall up or down from the chime to power it up and connect it to the doorbell button wires.
 
@Phontana: I guess you'll never get it to work with missing resistors. But i can understand that you want to fix it yourself, especially after 3 exchanged devices...

You can try to solder the missing resistors yourself - Im not 100% sure, but I think, you have to look for 10 Ohm SMD Resitors (the onprint "100" means: 10 x 10^0 Ohm = 10 Ohm).
Or try to contact the Ezviz (RCA/Hikvision, depending on your Manufacturer) Support and describe the problem - maybe they can send you a working powerkit. But please note that they push it onto the wiring or transformer i think :)

Don't know, if the manufacturers were aware of this problem.
 
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@moista Thanks, I’m going to contact Ezviz today and see what they can do. I don’t expect them to fix the issue, since it seems they deliberately removed the resistors from the power kit.

Yesterday I connected a mechanical chime to it and that seems to work fine, although the chime is slightly buzzing all the time (it is more noticeable when the IR leds are enabled). This confirms my suspicion that the power kit is not working as expected.

I’m not sure if I’m going to keep the doorbell if I can’t get this fixed. I really want to like it (and I do because all of the features it has) but without a fully working power kit it seems useless to me. And if Nelly discontinued their model, I guess the other manufacturers also will in favor of the DB1C. Maybe I’ll try that model instead, but then I won’t have ONVIF.
 
Phontana said:
Yesterday I connected a mechanical chime to it and that seems to work fine, although the chime is slightly buzzing all the time (it is more noticeable when the IR leds are enabled). This confirms my suspicion that the power kit is not working as expected.
Click to expand...

My experience was a little different, but I think, this depends on Chime + Transformer:
Chime was not buzzing with powerkit, so I got the impression that its working. But the bell rang accidentally... I couldn't find a connection between current flow (IR mode active/inactive) and triggering the chime. As far as i remember, it triggered more often with IR active, but in the end it doesn't help to know, whats the technically reason for misbehaving :D

As also recommended I checked amazon and ebay for a ring power kit (technically it should be the same because its the same working method) - but ~20$ would be too expensive for me personally; It is absurd that the manufacturer cannot send you a functioning overall system.

Just a thought and no recommendation: Ubiquiti just launched a Doorbell (UniFi Protect G4 doorbell); didn't checked out the specs and dependecies, but seems interesting on the first look. Unfortunately, they have recently been pushing everything into the cloud...
 
Here went from the original Nelly firmware to the Hikvision firmware after reading here on the forum and post #101.

Have a look at the FAQ.

Have a look at Hikvision Doorbell 101

Just hotwired the Hikvision doorbell PIR sensor to my Leviton HAI Omni Pro 2 panel via the Doorbell (ONVIF) to MQTT plugin to an ESPWiFiTasmota board to Alarm panel.

I am tinkering with Python3 and PAHO-MQTT on a micro OpenWRT router here...

Hikvision Doorbell ==> ESPWiFiTasmotaRelay ==> alarm panel zone

Code: 
import paho.mqtt.client as mqtt
MQTTv31 = 3
MQTTv311 = 4
MQTTv5 = 5
message = 'ON'
def on_connect(client,userdata, flags, rc):
    client.subscribe("onvif2mqtt/Doorbell/motion")
    print("rc: " + str(rc))


def on_message(client, userdata, msg):
    global message
    print(msg.topic + " " + str(msg.qos) + " " + str(msg.payload))
    message = msg.payload
    client.publish("Omni/HikVision_PIR/cmnd/POWER",msg.payload);


def on_publish(client, userdata, mid):
    print("mid: " + str(mid))


def on_subscribe(client, userdata, mid, granted_qos):
    print("Subscribed: " + str(mid) + " " + str(granted_qos))


def on_log(client, userdata, level, buf):
    print(buf)


mqttc = mqtt.Client("petetest",protocol=MQTTv311)
# Assign event callbacks
mqttc.on_message = on_message
mqttc.on_connect = on_connect
mqttc.on_publish = on_publish
mqttc.on_subscribe = on_subscribe
# Connect
mqttc.connect("192.168.244.150", 1883)
#mqttc.connect("192.168.1.41", 1883)


# Continue the network loop
mqttc.loop_forever()
 
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I just decided to give up on this doorbell. I thought I had a working setup with the current sensing relay and the (faulty?) power kit attached to the doorbell and it worked fine for the last 2 days. I thought: "well, maybe this thing wíll work after all". But then I received a notification from my Home Assistant that the doorbell was pressed, without anyone pushing the button. And 20 minutes later I received a notification from Synology Surveillance Station that the doorbell camera was disconnected. So I checked out the doorbell and it was shut off. The relay was still turned on, since the time the notification was triggered. I guess the internal battery ran out of juice and that made the doorbell turn off.

The issues due to the faulty power kit, the high operating temperature and now this issue made me decide to return this doorbell and give up on it. @moista's suggesting regarding fixing it myself with the resistors was on my list, but I'm done with it. This doorbell could have been what I was looking for for a long time, but it just isn't it. I guess we'll have to wait until some manufacturer decides to build a decent doorbell for people like us, who want to use it locally with their own NVR and without a cloud dependency. I want to thank you all for your suggestions and your help.

Edit: and just after I posted this message, the doorbell turned off again. :facepalm:
 
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moista said:
My experience was a little different, but I think, this depends on Chime + Transformer:
Chime was not buzzing with powerkit, so I got the impression that its working. But the bell rang accidentally... I couldn't find a connection between current flow (IR mode active/inactive) and triggering the chime. As far as i remember, it triggered more often with IR active, but in the end it doesn't help to know, whats the technically reason for misbehaving :D

As also recommended I checked amazon and ebay for a ring power kit (technically it should be the same because its the same working method) - but ~20$ would be too expensive for me personally; It is absurd that the manufacturer cannot send you a functioning overall system.

Just a thought and no recommendation: Ubiquiti just launched a Doorbell (UniFi Protect G4 doorbell); didn't checked out the specs and dependecies, but seems interesting on the first look. Unfortunately, they have recently been pushing everything into the cloud...
Click to expand...

Yes I know about the UniFi G4, but that doorbell has a dependency on their UniFi Protect NVR or CloudKey and can't be used standalone unfortunately. However, after all the issues I encountered, it might be worth looking into the G4 after all. My experience with Ubiquiti is that they can at least build products of decent quality.
 
My old doorbell configuration was connecting the doobell to the alarm panel and using a combo Optex camera / PIR next to the door.

The Optex combo camera was wired and has a built in PIR and large It was difficult to wire mounted on brick. It was mounted about 2.5 meters up from ground level and aimed down with a 28mm lens.

Before the Hikvision doorbell purchased and installed the Ring doorbell which worked fine except that you need a subscription for it. I have implemented the entire Ring system in house #2 and using HA / Ring to MQTT to monitor it.
 
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