New RCA HSDB2A 3MP Doorbell IP Camera

[David L]

bought my RCA over a year ago now(man it was pre-pandemic and seems a lifetime away) and its still in the plastic wrap. Finally into the "final house" and wanted to go about setting this up now. I am just reacquainting myself with my own posts but its such a huge thread. Is it possible to set this up without using the RCA app or can I avoid the updating the firmware through the RCA app. I believe I might have the original firmware that is onvif and wouild like to avoid. If not possible I will have to flash I guess to get onvif. To confirm their is no way to get google assistant working for this doorbell using another firmware(more for her than me)? Can get motion detection using the hivision. I will follow the faq for flashing

You have to initially set it up the DB with the App but you don't have to continue to use the App as Pete mentioned. The RCA was a bit tricky, we had some people brick their RCA's when they changed to other brand's firmware. I would go ahead and except any firmware update from RCA through the App once you have everything setup. I think we found problems when updating from older RCA firmware to the latest. Only thing I would avoid is Nelly's firmware, not 100% sure that is what bricked several RCA DB's but all that were bricked upgraded to that firmware. We know LaView and Hikvision firmware works on the RCA, fyi But I would first see if RTSP works for you and you may not need ONVIF (a different brand firmware), really up to what you plan on recording with (NVR/NAS/Blue Iris etc.) You do get other features by getting the Hikvision firmware but unfortunately Google Assistant or Alexa isn't one of them. We tried everything we could to get native Google/Alexa to work. Only the LaView DB supports Alexa and EZVIZ DB supports both Google and Alexa. As Pete mentioned you can use Monocle for Alexa though on your RCA.

Here is our Compatibility chart from our 101:

FIRMWARE LIST (DOWNLOAD LINKS INCLUDED):

DOORBELL MODEL	PREVIOUS FIRMWARE	LATEST FIRMWARE	ONVIF	ALEXA	GOOGLE	OUTDOOR BELL SOUND (ON/OFF)	MOTION DETECTION CONFIGURABLE
HIKVISION (DS-HD1)	191017	200321 (2020-03-31)	YES	NO	NO	???	YES
RCA (HSDB2A)	180809 (????-??-??), 180703 (????-??-??)	190124 (2019-01-30)	NO	NO	NO	NO
EZVIZ (DB1)	191211 (2020-01-05), 190708 (2019-07-21), 190304 (????-??-??), 181024 (????-??-??)	200904 (2020-10-21) US Firmware, 200220 (2020-04-02) EUR Firmware	NO	YES	YES	YES	NO
LAVIEW (LV-PDB1630-U)	190103 (????-??-??)	190716 (2019-07-29)	YES	YES	NO	NO	NO
NELLY'S (NSC-DB2)	190122 (2019-03-04), 190412 (2019-??-??), 190625 (2019-06-25)&(2019-11-22)	191216 (2019-12-16)	YES	NO	NO	NO
LTS (LTH-7132-WIFI)		??????	???	???	???	???	???

HTH

 

[Dasbooter]

You have to initially set it up the DB with the App but you don't have to continue to use the App as Pete mentioned. The RCA was a bit tricky, we had some people brick their RCA's when they changed to other brand's firmware. I would go ahead and except any firmware update from RCA through the App once you have everything setup. I think we found problems when updating from older RCA firmware to the latest. Only thing I would avoid is Nelly's firmware, not 100% sure that is what bricked several RCA DB's but all that were bricked upgraded to that firmware. We know LaView and Hikvision firmware works on the RCA, fyi But I would first see if RTSP works for you and you may not need ONVIF (a different brand firmware), really up to what you plan on recording with (NVR/NAS/Blue Iris etc.) You do get other features by getting the Hikvision firmware but unfortunately Google Assistant or Alexa isn't one of them. We tried everything we could to get native Google/Alexa to work. Only the LaView DB supports Alexa and EZVIZ DB supports both Google and Alexa. As Pete mentioned you can use Monocle for Alexa though on your RCA.

Here is our Compatibility chart from our 101:

FIRMWARE LIST (DOWNLOAD LINKS INCLUDED):

DOORBELL MODEL	PREVIOUS FIRMWARE	LATEST FIRMWARE	ONVIF	ALEXA	GOOGLE	OUTDOOR BELL SOUND (ON/OFF)	MOTION DETECTION CONFIGURABLE
HIKVISION (DS-HD1)	191017	200321 (2020-03-31)	YES	NO	NO	???	YES
RCA (HSDB2A)	180809 (????-??-??), 180703 (????-??-??)	190124 (2019-01-30)	NO	NO	NO	NO
EZVIZ (DB1)	191211 (2020-01-05), 190708 (2019-07-21), 190304 (????-??-??), 181024 (????-??-??)	200904 (2020-10-21) US Firmware, 200220 (2020-04-02) EUR Firmware	NO	YES	YES	YES	NO
LAVIEW (LV-PDB1630-U)	190103 (????-??-??)	190716 (2019-07-29)	YES	YES	NO	NO	NO
NELLY'S (NSC-DB2)	190122 (2019-03-04), 190412 (2019-??-??), 190625 (2019-06-25)&(2019-11-22)	191216 (2019-12-16)	YES	NO	NO	NO
LTS (LTH-7132-WIFI)		??????	???	???	???	???	???

HTH

Ya I have read the 101 many times now and saw the unfortunate bricking. I guess I wanted to stick with the original rca firmware and see what I can get running. I use home assistant with motion eye. I would like to have the video pop up on a screen too and I thought the home assistant cast service might work for that. I will try the RCA app to set up and hopefully there will be an option to opt out of the firmware update. Its a little ridiculous how little control we can maintain over hardware we purchase. If I do try to switch to another firmware it appears only the hikvision for motion detection would be useful and in that case I will upgrade to the newest RCA firmware and follow the rrest of the 101 to avoid bricking



Edit: its the latest firmware looks like I have to uprade

 

[pete_c]

My original video doorbell was an RCA. Keeping the RCA firmware on it could not do anything with it so I sent it back and purchased the Nelly DB version and updated it with the Hikvision firmware.

Here currently using the Home Assistant ONVIF plugin and it works well except that I do not use the ONVIF pieces relating to the hardware PIR on the Doorbell. I started initially with an ONVIF to MQTT plugin that was mentioned here on the forum then went to the HA ONVIF plugin. The built in PIR works but it is too sensitive for my use.

Instead of using the DB PIR installed Tasmota on a Sonoff 433Mhz hub with a 433Mhz outdoor PIR that works pretty well using MQTT.

All of the video DB's sold these days are managed by your smart phone or Amazon rather than any sort of automation program like Home Assistant.

 

[Dasbooter]

Don't think there is much chance to send it back at this point. I'm thinking I should flash to hikvision since it came with the newer RCA firmware to get onvif. I think from there motion eye in home assistant. I would like to use the pir sensor...I don't really wanna put more electronics on my front door.

 

[pete_c]

Whatever you decide to do first thing is to have admin access to the device and utilize the Hikvision Batch configuration program. I utilize an older version of this program as the newer version did not work correctly with my Nelly to Hikvision firmware device. I am running Batch Configuration application version 3.0.2.6 here. I can post it here if you cannot find it.

I also disabled the cloud access smart phone app. The cloud smart app will manage your device including upgrading firmware.

Guessing that the motion eye app talk both RTSP and or ONVIF. The hardwired PIR only talks ONVIF.

There is a stand alone ONVIF to MQTT plugin:

GitHub - dmitrif/onvif2mqtt: Translate ONVIF events (from IP Cameras) to MQTT messages.

Translate ONVIF events (from IP Cameras) to MQTT messages. - dmitrif/onvif2mqtt

github.com

This was the configuration for onvif2mqtt in HA:

binary_sensor:
  - platform: mqtt
    name: "DB PIR Sensor"
    state_topic: "onvif2mqtt/Doorbell/motion"
    availability_topic: "onvif2mqtt/status"
    qos: 1
    payload_on: "ON"
    payload_off: "OFF"
    payload_available: "ON"
    payload_not_available: "OFF"
    device_class: motion

and there is the HA ONVIF plugin here:

ONVIF

Instructions on how to integrate a ONVIF camera within Home Assistant.

www.home-assistant.io

Works better than the onvif2mqtt plugin and creates all of the devices for you automagically but it is not MQTT. IE: no configuration.yaml entries.

I started using the ONVIF to MQTT plugin posted originally here then went to using the HA ONVIF plugin.

You can also utilize Node Red for this stuff.

Most important:
1 - admin access
2 - validate RTSP and ONVIF connectivity
3 - remove and disconnect DB from cloud app

For MQTT stuff here always utilize MQTT explorer.

 

[NickTheGreat]

Weird question, but does anybody else get any phantom rings with this thing? Yesterday I got two. We were downstairs and heard it, and no one was there. Then 5 minutes later got another one. This time my wife was by the window and did not see anybody press the button. And we do have a secondary ringer on the back of the house for some reason, but I’m 98% sure nobody was back there.

There was nothing on the App and nothing in Blue Iris captured either. I feel like this happened maybe once or twice before, but is a fairly isolated incident. I've got the LaView flavor if it matters.

 

[Dasbooter]

Whatever you decide to do first thing is to have admin access to the device and utilize the Hikvision Batch configuration program. I utilize an older version of this program as the newer version did not work correctly with my Nelly to Hikvision firmware device. I am running Batch Configuration application version 3.0.2.6 here. I can post it here if you cannot find it.

I also disabled the cloud access smart phone app. The cloud smart app will manage your device including upgrading firmware.

Guessing that the motion eye app talk both RTSP and or ONVIF. The hardwired PIR only talks ONVIF.

There is a stand alone ONVIF to MQTT plugin:

GitHub - dmitrif/onvif2mqtt: Translate ONVIF events (from IP Cameras) to MQTT messages.

Translate ONVIF events (from IP Cameras) to MQTT messages. - dmitrif/onvif2mqtt

github.com

This was the configuration for onvif2mqtt in HA:

binary_sensor:
  - platform: mqtt
    name: "DB PIR Sensor"
    state_topic: "onvif2mqtt/Doorbell/motion"
    availability_topic: "onvif2mqtt/status"
    qos: 1
    payload_on: "ON"
    payload_off: "OFF"
    payload_available: "ON"
    payload_not_available: "OFF"
    device_class: motion

and there is the HA ONVIF plugin here:

ONVIF

Instructions on how to integrate a ONVIF camera within Home Assistant.

www.home-assistant.io

Works better than the onvif2mqtt plugin and creates all of the devices for you automagically but it is not MQTT. IE: no configuration.yaml entries.

I started using the ONVIF to MQTT plugin posted originally here then went to using the HA ONVIF plugin.

You can also utilize Node Red for this stuff.

Most important:
1 - admin access
2 - validate RTSP and ONVIF connectivity
3 - remove and disconnect DB from cloud app

For MQTT stuff here always utilize MQTT explorer.

Thanks so much! Back to work today so I will have to work on that. The RCA firmware is the latest and it may have been upgraded during the initial registration set up(I sure didn't agree to any update). I'm actually not that familiar with pir sensors but my new house has them as part of the security system and I was able to pull them into home assistant with an envisalink card.

Can you forsee an automation that can show the front door camera on my Google nest hub using onvif/door bell button press and home assistant(ha onvif)? I know that Google cloud integration isn't working but I would really like to have it pop up for the wife on a screen that she can see

 

[pete_c]

Can you foresee an automation that can show the front door camera on my Google nest hub using onvif/door bell button press and home assistant(ha onvif)?

Probably sometime soon.

You could push the DB video to a touchscreen running HA in the browser via ONVIF or MQTT event.

Here many many years ago (~2005) was pushing front door CCTV video to my tabletop touchscreens (Homeseer Touch) running embedded Windows and to my Leviton Omnitouch screens via the OmniPro 2 automation.

Here is what I see using the HA-ONVIF plugin. Using HA automation I pop up video. It is also using the doorbell to alarm zone and 2nd Sonoff 433Mhz PIR now.

 

[David L]

Weird question, but does anybody else get any phantom rings with this thing? Yesterday I got two. We were downstairs and heard it, and no one was there. Then 5 minutes later got another one. This time my wife was by the window and did not see anybody press the button. And we do have a secondary ringer on the back of the house for some reason, but I’m 98% sure nobody was back there.

There was nothing on the App and nothing in Blue Iris captured either. I feel like this happened maybe once or twice before, but is a fairly isolated incident. I've got the LaView flavor if it matters.

Normally when someone experiences that it is a night thing where the IR comes on and the transformer cannot not handle the extra voltage/load. What size transformer do you have?

 

[NickTheGreat]

Normally when someone experiences that it is a night thing where the IR comes on and the transformer cannot not handle the extra voltage/load. What size transformer do you have?

I upgraded it to this one last fall. 30W

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007B79HR2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1

I was having trouble with the doorbell working at all, and the new transformer really helped it.

It was the middle of the afternoon, but the extra load kinda makes sense.

 

[ipcamnard]

I have a stupid question. Its possible its been answered but I've tried searching the thread and i'm still unclear.

I got two of EZVIZ and i'm just figuring out the wiring for the chimes/power kits. [Two doorbells/one transformer/one chime]
I understand that my setup should prob look like something like the below:

1) I see the wiring diagram below shows using only the twisted pair directly into the chime (front) from the Doorbell, and likewise into the transformer(Trans), instead of everything I'm reading that says I should pull the two (Front/Trans , for doorbell #1) and cap twist it into the small white, thicker white twists into front terminal and thicker black into Trans, smaller black into the wire pulled from the Trans.

Would it work fine if you just left the two original wires in the Front/Trans and just Added the thicker White (from the chime kit) and thicker black to Front/Trans? or would that create a short?

-https://support.ring.com/hc/article_attachments/360026541712/2Pros_1Chime_1Trans.jpg

2) IF you do need to remove the wires and use as instructed, how does the second chime kit get wired in? I am having trouble visualizing what its supposed to be like at the end of it all.
Below is the closest I get but somehow Its not clicking for me. (the wiring below shows the kit wired before the Front/Rear, and then some weird kit-to-kit wire into trans) whereas, the chime kit included is wire from doorbell-->front-->kit-->trans--> wire from droobell transformer)
I wasn't sure if someone had a wiring diagram that fit this kit specifically I can better visualize it. Maybe I missed it in the searching.

 

[pete_c]

Put a VOM on the power of each of the DB connections and check.

 

[David L]

I have a stupid question. Its possible its been answered but I've tried searching the thread and i'm still unclear.

I got two of EZVIZ and i'm just figuring out the wiring for the chimes/power kits. [Two doorbells/one transformer/one chime]
I understand that my setup should prob look like something like the below:

1) I see the wiring diagram below shows using only the twisted pair directly into the chime (front) from the Doorbell, and likewise into the transformer(Trans), instead of everything I'm reading that says I should pull the two (Front/Trans , for doorbell #1) and cap twist it into the small white, thicker white twists into front terminal and thicker black into Trans, smaller black into the wire pulled from the Trans.

Would it work fine if you just left the two original wires in the Front/Trans and just Added the thicker White (from the chime kit) and thicker black to Front/Trans? or would that create a short?

-https://support.ring.com/hc/article_attachments/360026541712/2Pros_1Chime_1Trans.jpg

2) IF you do need to remove the wires and use as instructed, how does the second chime kit get wired in? I am having trouble visualizing what its supposed to be like at the end of it all.
Below is the closest I get but somehow Its not clicking for me. (the wiring below shows the kit wired before the Front/Rear, and then some weird kit-to-kit wire into trans) whereas, the chime kit included is wire from doorbell-->front-->kit-->trans--> wire from droobell transformer)
I wasn't sure if someone had a wiring diagram that fit this kit specifically I can better visualize it. Maybe I missed it in the searching.

A few things come to mind. You should be able to get away with only one Power Kit, the idea is that when the DB button is pushed the power kit regulates the voltage to your Chime, since a direct short is created when the DB button is pushed. The chances of both DB's buttons being pushed at the same time is very doubtful. Second thing that comes to mind, in order to properly power both DB's 24/7 I would make sure you get a 16v 40va or 24v 40va transformer. Match your existing transformers voltage, in other words if you have a 16v 10va I would stay with 16v, if you increase this voltages your Chime would Chime louder and if it is a Digital Chime it possible could damage it. On a Mechanical Chime the hammers would just hit harder which normally increase the sound.
Lastly, you could add a second transformer of which you would run two 30va transformers and two power kits, this way you would keep two separate loops, the Chime only gets voltage when the DB button is pressed, think of it like a light switch turning on.

@pete_c Please check me on my advise before @ipcamnard proceeds...Thanks Pete

HTH

 

[Duh987]

Other than firewall tricks, has anyone found a way to capture the button presses?

 

[David L]

Other than firewall tricks, has anyone found a way to capture the button presses?

Define Capture. If you have a Zigbee Hub several here use the Sage Sensor on their Chime...

Hughes Sage Doorbell Sensor Home Automation Security System 753960014180 | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Hughes Sage Doorbell Sensor Home Automation Security System at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!

www.ebay.com

 

[Duh987]

Define Capture. If you have a Zigbee Hub several here use the Sage Sensor on their Chime...

Hughes Sage Doorbell Sensor Home Automation Security System 753960014180 | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Hughes Sage Doorbell Sensor Home Automation Security System at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!

www.ebay.com

That's an option but If I am going through that much travel I am just going to switch to the AD410. I have ordered it 4 times now and cancelled as I am not sure it is worth swapping but I may jump the ship

 

[David L]

That's an option but If I am going through that much travel I am just going to switch to the AD410. I have ordered it 4 times now and cancelled as I am not sure it is worth swapping but I may jump the ship

So what more do you get out of the Amcrest than the EZVIZ? I see the H.265 support, the new DB1C has that support now.

 

[Duh987]

So what more do you get out of the Amcrest than the EZVIZ? I see the H.265 support, the new DB1C has that support now.

Well, the DB1c you lose resolution so that isn't good. The main thing I would gain would be able to capture the button presses for home assistant. In the context of this forum, I wouldn't gain much in terms of the actual camera and that is why I keep cancelling my order for the amcrest. In terms of quality life improvements through the 180 VFOV is super nice for its intended purpose of seeing the ground. Outside of the app though that does lead to some viewing issues. Screens are 16x9 so you end up with big black bars on every display you use the camera on outside of their app which is annoying. I have home assist send the video feed to my google home hubs when frigate detects a person, which on the 7in means the video feed is really small so if it detected someone in the yard and they don't come close to the door it does make it hard to see. Also since the video to my tv which again even on a 55in tv means the actual video is 1/3 of the screen. The way my front door is to I think would actually benefit from the wider HFOV as my door faces straight out but the stairs come from the right. 105 hFov vs 164 hfov.

Capturing the button presses would let me disable the chime and use my google homes to announce someone is at the door. That alone would allow me to disable the announcement when I am working or asleep. Alternatively, it would allow me to turn on lights, play louder alarms at night too. I also use deep stack on top of frigate to do facial recognition, this would allow me to run the recognition when the person actually presses the button vs hoping to get lucky with a good capture in the yard or on the stairs, again this allows me to announce different things on the google homes depending on who it is. I tend to get the same, USPS, and UPS person so I can have it tell me it is a package vs someone unknown. Some of this I am doing already just letting frigrate control all the notifications vs using the button but the button would add an extra dimension to it and make it more accurate.

The canned response also sounds really nice especially if I can access them in home assistant too. Even in the app that sounds nice as it does take a while for Ezviz to spin up the two-way talk. 99% of the time I use the two-way talk it is to tell doordash to leave the food and f**K off. Salespeople just get the f**k off part of the conversation and 99% of the time I say the same thing. Thank you for bringing me food please leave it and I will grab it in a second, especially since covid is a thing and I don't feel like being face to face with these people. The image I am getting from my ezviz also isn't the greatest unless the person is directly at my door which is expected but more resolution never hurt nobody.

 

[pete_c]

@David L , @ipcamnard

Ack on Post # 6753

Here updated my original 8V chime to get rid of the gong sound.

 

[gnuB]

Nelly’s db cam and it’s gone flashing blue again, happened 3x now. The only way I’ve been able to fix it is to reset and setup new. Should I be concerned and or start looking for a replacement?