New RCA HSDB2A 3MP Doorbell IP Camera

LTek said:
Anyone have this issue? (screenshot from Blue Iris)

Soon as I connect to the cam using the EZVIZ Android app, the view goes back to normal... but about 30 seconds after I close the app, it reverts to this 1/4 view.

This just started happening after a year of working perfectly on Laview v5.2.4 build 190716. I have not changed any settings. This used to happen on an old FW version (cant remember which, I tried several) but never did, until a few days ago, on this FW.

thx
Click to expand...

i have the same issue with ezviz and blueiris but i only have it with the 4 ezviz bullet cameras. A soon as i view the cam from the ezviz app the view in blueiris changes if i stop viewing in the ezviz app it changes back to normal instantly. My db1 with hik fw doesn’t have that problem i only use mainstream for this camera in blueiris and i always thought it had something to do because i use main stream and sub stream in blueiris. But I didn’t investigate.
 
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Hi all, I could really use some help with an ezviz db1 I just got. I'm having issues with my chime.

I have and old NuTone LD-49, which has a common wire in addition to a trans wire. Here is the manual with a wiring diagram and I attached a screenshot User manual for NuTone LD-49 - a user manual, servicing manual, settings and specifications ofNuTone LD-49 - User manuals and advice for your devices - User-Manual.info

Unfortunately, I am not able to access the transformer easily to see its amp rating, but I have a 30 amp coming in the mail since I'm assuming it's 10. It is 16v measured with a multimeter.

Here are my issues:

Without the power kit, as soon as the doorbell is connected the chime plays its song non-stop in a loop

With the power kit, the button of the bell will not ring the chime (I have tried mechanical and electronic chime mode), for this chime even to play the whole song the circuit just needs to be completed briefly. If I do it manually from the terminals, it plays in a loop until I unplug and replug the powerkit.

Now for the really weird part:

With the bell installed while the chime is ringing (whether in a loop or if I complete the circuit manually), I only measure 8v at the chime between common and front door. common to trans, and common to back door both still measure 16v while it is chiming.

With the doorbell disconnected and the chime ringing I still get 16v from common to front door.

This is kind of leading me to suspect an issue with the wiring rather than low current from the transformer, but I'd really like to hear from someone smarter than me.
 

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How many doorbell buttons are you using? If you are only using one button and the video doorbell then maybe switching over to a purely mechanical chime. You might be able to keep the old transformer in place this way.

Here recently updated my older 8VAC Nutone chime to a newer chime that I purchased on Amazon. It is basic in function and works fine.

Your drawing indicates that you have a digital chime with an AC power supply.

Newhouse Hardware CHM1 Door Bell Chime, White $14.98
 
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pete_c said:
How many doorbell buttons are you using? If you are only using one button and the video doorbell then maybe switching over to a purely mechanical chime. You might be able to keep the old transformer in place this way.

Here recently updated my older 8VAC Nutone chime to a newer chime that I purchased on Amazon. It is basic in function and works fine.

Your drawing indicates that you have a digital chime with an AC power supply.

Newhouse Hardware CHM1 Door Bell Chime, White $14.98
Click to expand...

Right now it is 1 button and the db1, but I'm hoping to change out the button and be running 2 db1s, so the transformer change is probably inevitable regardless. The chime is a 16VAC chime, just when it chimes the voltage drops down to 8v only on the circuit the db1 is on. That is to say the button is still getting 16v while the db1 only gets 8v when it is chiming. I'd really like to avoid changing my chime because it's a really beautiful piece.
 
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Yes here the chime still triggers but mostly use the automation here to sound doorbell chime sounds and use text to speech. So upping the transformer should work as it appears that your video doorbell is drawing a bit of power.

You have to find the transformer. Mine was in the basement here under where the doorbell / thermostat wall. There is an electrical box there. There is a conduit running from the doorbell chime box down to the basement. In FL my doorbell transformer was mounted right on the fuse panel in the garage.
 
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pete_c said:
Yes here the chime still triggers but mostly use the automation here to sound doorbell chime sounds and use text to speech. So upping the transformer should work as it appears that your video doorbell is drawing a bit of power.

You have to find the transformer. Mine was in the basement here under where the doorbell / thermostat wall. There is an electrical box there. There is a conduit running from the doorbell chime box down to the basement. In FL my doorbell transformer was mounted right on the fuse panel in the garage.
Click to expand...

Yeah the transformer is on a j-box in the attic above the doorbell, I recently had my insulation done so there is no more flooring and about a foot and a half of fluff there, so I didn't want to go over just to read what it is, I figured I'd do it once for the replacement.

My real concern is that there is an issue with the wiring since the voltage drop only occurs on the circuit with the db1 and not on the button circuit or the common to trans leads. It's as if the wiring can't support the current not that the transformer is sagging voltage. That being said I'm not really sure if that is normal or not
 
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My real concern is that there is an issue with the wiring since the voltage drop only occurs on the circuit with the db1 and not on the button circuit or the common to trans leads. It's as if the wiring can't support the current not that the transformer is sagging voltage. That being said I'm not really sure if that is normal or not

I do not think this is a wiring issue. I am guessing that there is hardly any draw from the digital chime and a lot more from the Video doorbell. That said the transformer might be a tad light relating to amperage.

I have not measured the power at the doorbell or the doorbell chime here. Originally had an 8V Nutone chime with an 8 VAC and went to the above chime with a new transformer.

Looking now on Amazon for what I purchased.

Endurance Pro 24V 40VA Thermostat Doorbell Transformer, Power Supply Compatible with Nest, Ecobee, Sensi, Honeywell Thermostat, Nest Hello Doorbell and All Versions of Ring Doorbell $21.81

With the above transformer my Nutone would "gong" more than chime so I changed the chime.

I purchased a second hot spare transformer to test and configure the doorbell on the workbench. You can just cut an old computer cord and connect it to the AC side of the transformer and connect the low AC voltage side to the doorbell to configure and test it.

Note the old chime / transformer worked fine with my Ring Doorbell and did not work with my newer Hikvision DB.

Guessing you have read the FAQ mentioned in the sig eh?

docs.google.com

HIKVISION DOORBELL101

HIKVISION DOORBELL 101 HIKVISION (DS-HD1), RCA (HSDB2A), EZVIZ (DB1), LAVIEW (LV-PDB1630-U), NELLY'S (NSC-DB2), LTS (LTH-7132-WIFI) * NEW RCA OWNERS READ WARNINGS: SECTION * * IF YOUR CHIME AS RECENTLY (2020) STOPPED WORKING AFTER APP UPDATE, SEE TROUBLESHOOTING TIPS: SECTION: * (DO NOT UPGRADE T...
docs.google.com docs.google.com

My doorbell configuration and wiring is a tad different as I have the doorbell wiring connected here to my Alarm panel automation...

Doorbell chime ==> alarm circuit board going to alarm panel with a debounce circuit

===> automation servers Homeseer and Home Assistant
===> text to speech to Alexa devices
===> text to speech using Microsoft SAPI
 
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pete_c said:
My real concern is that there is an issue with the wiring since the voltage drop only occurs on the circuit with the db1 and not on the button circuit or the common to trans leads. It's as if the wiring can't support the current not that the transformer is sagging voltage. That being said I'm not really sure if that is normal or not

I do not think this is a wiring issue. I am guessing that there is hardly any draw from the digital chime and a lot more from the Video doorbell. That said the transformer might be a tad light relating to amperage.

I have not measured the power at the doorbell or the doorbell chime here. Originally had an 8V Nutone chime with an 8 VAC and went to the above chime with a new transformer.

Looking now on Amazon for what I purchased.

Endurance Pro 24V 40VA Thermostat Doorbell Transformer, Power Supply Compatible with Nest, Ecobee, Sensi, Honeywell Thermostat, Nest Hello Doorbell and All Versions of Ring Doorbell $21.81

With the above transformer my Nutone would "gong" more than chime so I changed the chime.

I purchased a second hot spare transformer to test and configure the doorbell on the workbench. You can just cut an old computer cord and connect it to the AC side of the transformer and connect the low AC voltage side to the doorbell to configure and test it.

Note the old chime / transformer worked fine with my Ring Doorbell and did not work with my newer Hikvision DB.

Guessing you have read the FAQ mentioned in the sig eh?

docs.google.com

HIKVISION DOORBELL101

HIKVISION DOORBELL 101 HIKVISION (DS-HD1), RCA (HSDB2A), EZVIZ (DB1), LAVIEW (LV-PDB1630-U), NELLY'S (NSC-DB2), LTS (LTH-7132-WIFI) * NEW RCA OWNERS READ WARNINGS: SECTION * * IF YOUR CHIME AS RECENTLY (2020) STOPPED WORKING AFTER APP UPDATE, SEE TROUBLESHOOTING TIPS: SECTION: * (DO NOT UPGRADE T...
docs.google.com docs.google.com

My doorbell configuration and wiring is a tad different as I have the doorbell wiring connected here to my Alarm panel automation...

Doorbell chime ==> alarm circuit board going to alarm panel with a debounce circuit

===> automation servers Homeseer and Home Assistant
===> text to speech to Alexa devices
===> text to speech using Microsoft SAPI
Click to expand...

Thank you for the insight, I did just rule out the wiring as I did a bench test (with the chime still on the wall) and connected the doorbell right at the chime and observed the same behavior. Once my new transformer goes in I will have to see what happens
 
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What transformer did your purchase?

Do you have a link for it?

Personally I liked the way the Ring Doorbell had a battery and worked fine with any transformer. I did not like the cloud thing for house #1.

I did install the Ring alarm system / with doorbell now in house #2 and can manage it with an MQTT to Ring plugin (without using my cellular phone).

Here in the midwest always had conduit and built new with conduit.

In FL not so. Just BX cable.
 
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pete_c said:
What transformer did your purchase?

Do you have a link for it?

Personally I liked the way the Ring Doorbell had a battery and worked fine with any transformer. I did not like the cloud thing for house #1.

I did install the Ring alarm system / with doorbell now in house #2 and can manage it with an MQTT to Ring plugin (without using my cellular phone).
Click to expand...
Yeah I came from a ring with a battery too (which worked fine), just got sick of the subscription and not having rtsp when I have a beefy server and network at home. I order this Newhouse Hardware Wired 16V 30vA Doorbell Transformer Compatible with Ring Pro-30TR - The Home Depot
 
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That should work fine.

Here still purchase from big box hardware stores. (Menards, Lowes and Home Depot).

I like Amazon even though they priced higher and there no questions return policy of 30 days.

IE: purchased the Arris SB8200 on Amazon cuz I wanted to go to Gb here but it never worked right so sent it back.
 
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m82a1pa said:
I did not hook up the power kit. The instructions weren't clear enough, for me. Does the power kit install with the transformer power running through the kit, then to the doorbell connectors? The wires on the kit seem to be a tiny gauge compared to the 24ga doorbell wires coming from the transformer. I tried to find via Google a schematic of the power kit but no luck.

I'm using a 16v 30va transformer. Once I connected the camera to the transformer common and the doorbell terminal, the doorbell chimed until I pulled the power so I was unable to run the app. Drove me crazy.

Here's a schematic of the doorbell if anyone could tell me where to connect the power kit. It's the top schematic. The camera is wired between the '3' and 'F' terminal, correct?
Click to expand...
Did you ever figure this out? you have the same issue as me even with the 30VA transformer
 
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So the transformer you have....

NuTone Model: 301-N Transformer is a 16V 10VAC one if it is original.
 
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pete_c said:
So the transformer you have....

NuTone Model: 301-N Transformer is a 16V 10VAC one if it is original.
Click to expand...
Probably, that's why I have the 30VA in the mail. But that's not the issue here. I found the solution after a bunch of looking. I need to install a relay.

www.functionaldevices.com

A Relay for the Nest Hello Doorbell - Functional Devices, Inc.

How to use Functional Devices, Inc. RIB Relay RIBU1C with Nest Hello doorbell. Detailed wiring diagram included.
www.functionaldevices.com www.functionaldevices.com




 
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Great idea! This solution should be added to our FAQ here.
 
So. the Relay is not working. I picked up the solid state one I linked above as well as the mechanical relay from the youtube video. I think the bell is drawing too much current still. It is keeping the relay tripped and then the bell doesnt get enough voltage. This si with the powerkit. I think the powerkit is not working, I have 2 doorbells I'm trying to connect and tried both powerkits to no avail. I'm on the verge of returning all the stuff I got.
 
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Here using a current relay to drive the automation stuff. I had to tweak it a bit. This is an autonomously utilized device for a zone contact on the alarm panel.

The current sensor has a pot on it to adjust the sensitivity.

I was originally using an Elk-930 for the alarm contact and that did not work well with the Video Doorbell.

The concern would be what happens to the door chime if you increase the voltage and amperage?
 
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