New RCA HSDB2A 3MP Doorbell IP Camera

[David L]

I currently have the One Halo connected via ONVIF. I am new to Blue Iris (installed 4 days ago) so can't comment too much on feature set. I was super easy to add and I have not had any issues.

Did you buy BI from here IPCamTalk? Is there any difference in the software from here than buying it directly from Blue Iris, other than price? I assume it is the full version here so 64 cameras but only one license per (PC or Mac) correct?

Thanks

 

[David L]

I currently have the One Halo connected via ONVIF. I am new to Blue Iris (installed 4 days ago) so can't comment too much on feature set. I was super easy to add and I have not had any issues.

Thank you for the ONVIF confirmation for BI. Yeah I was excited to see the firmware update after my purchase since LaView's Tech. dept. told me they were Beta testing ONVIF at the time of my purchase and they even released it on the estimated date (end of July) month they told me.

Now which NAS to buy...I have a Drobo 5N which I have been running for about 5 years now, love it, not one file lost in that time, but they do not have an App or Surveillance System like Synology so I am leaning towards Synology. Plan to add IPCs and want them all to record 24/7 on the NAS.

 

[Martin Paul Sr]

I currently have the One Halo connected via ONVIF. I am new to Blue Iris (installed 4 days ago) so can't comment too much on feature set. I was super easy to add and I have not had any issues.

Can you do me a favor and look in your Camera> Properites>Video>Configure.
Let us know what's in the "Make", "Model" and "Path" fields?
I know there is a working path already published here that simply matches some other HikVision cams, but this might be a better stream.

Also, does the Halo ONE let you access it with a web interface from a computer?

 

[David L]

Can you do me a favor and look in your Camera> Properites>Video>Configure.
Let us know what's in the "Make", "Model" and "Path" fields?
I know there is a working path already published here that simply matches some other HikVision cams, but this might be a better stream.

Also, does the Halo ONE let you access it with a web interface from a computer?

I can answer Web question, No there is no HTTP

 

[Kamakzie]

I'm trying to add the Halo to Blue Iris. You would be a real hero if you could help with the settings in Blue Iris. I did update the firmware that supposed to have onvif. Also I'm not sure what to put for username and password?

 

[Kamakzie]

I got it working in Blue Iris

 

[David L]

I got it working in Blue Iris

Congrats on the install, so I see you got it the next day (Friday) from Amazon as you posted and installed it the same day, good job, also got BI up and running, nice.
Bet you can't wait to see what the video looks like today (Saturday) with daylight

 

[Kope007]

So I read most of the thread but don't remember seeing a definitive answer, or maybe I missed it.
Are the laview and rca exactly the same internally?
Can the new laview firmware be used on the rca for ONVIF capabilities?

Wifey won't go for the white cover of the laview, lol.

 

[Kamakzie]

Everything working good trying to figure out two-way communication through BI. Trying to reconfigure the colors for the daylight though as they look rather washed out. I tried using the PC software for laview and it kills my network on my PC so I have to reboot the computer whenever I use that software. It really weird. I tried to figure out where to configure the colors in the cell phone software but I don't see where you can change that.

 

[Buttan Butt]

Can someone explain why on earth I need to mount a resistor in series with the power feed (as instructed in the Quick Installation Guide) (for installations without a chime box)

If it was a fuse I'd understand but a resistor? What good can it do more that generating heat? Really?

 

[Kamakzie]

Okay guys sorry for all the posts but I think I figured out the color now. I turned off WDR and things improved exponentially with the picture as you can see below. It starts out with the old color settings and then you can see the moment I turned off WDR.

Now I just wish I could figure out two way communication through blue Iris and then I would be happier than a pig in slop. PS apologies for my neighbors loud radio!

 

[TimTech]

Can someone explain why on earth I need to mount a resistor in series with the power feed.
If it was a fuse I'd understand but a resistor? What good can it do more that generating heat? Really?

The circuit needs a load to drop camera voltage and current into the correct range (V=IR). Kind of like a an LED needs a resistor in series to reduce the voltage across the LED and keep from burning it out.



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[Buttan Butt]

The circuit needs a load to drop camera voltage and current into the correct range (V=IR). Kind of like a an LED needs a resistor in series to reduce the voltage across the LED and keep from burning it out.

Thanks. If that's the case, when using the doorbell camera without a mechanical door bell attached, wouldn't it just be much better to simply skip the resistor and buy a transformer with a more suitable (lower) voltage?

EDIT: I found this product review where it says:

A Resistor is supplied for systems that dont have a chime. But, the Resistor is actually a 3.15A inline fuse. The tech support line had no explanation of why it was called a Resistor, but agreed that using neither the Resistor nor the Power Kit was fine.

I guess that "resistor" is just chinese for "fuse" then.

 

[TimTech]

I guess that "resistor" is just chinese for "fuse" then.

Resistors come in different wattage rating. Most small resistors you get at hobby shops are 1/4 watt. They burn out or “blow” if you put too much power (VA) through them. Some Power Resistors for audio equipment are 10 watt. So, to us a resistor as a fuse, the power rating is critical.
Remember, electrical components don’t work well once you let the smoke out.

 

[Ford]

Thanks. If that's the case, when using the doorbell camera without a mechanical door bell attached, wouldn't it just be much better to simply skip the resistor and buy a transformer with a more suitable (lower) voltage?

EDIT: I found this product review where it says:


I guess that "resistor" is just chinese for "fuse" then.

The included resistor is actually a resistor, not a fuse.

When the doorbell button is pushed, the HSDB2A is bypasses itself in the doorbell circuit. (the HSDB2A is powered for this time by capacitors it has just for this purpose)

If you are not using a chime, when the button is pressed and the HSDB2A is bypassed, the circuit is a dead short which will quickly burn out the transformer. Using the resistor creates the load missing if a chime is not used. The voltage of the transformer will not effect the short condition.

This is detailed in the installation guide emphasized in red text blocks if you read it.


Also the reason I recommend a 24VAC transformer meant for the HVAC industry is they are generally lower priced, much higher quality and much higher VA rating (the power it can deliver similar to watts) and the chimes can easily handle the small increase in voltage. By and large, the doorbell transformers you see at Home Depot and their ilk are cheap overpriced junk (cheapness is reflected in their super low VA ratings) that often do not even deliver their rated VAC and VA.

 

[David L]

The included resistor is actually a resistor, not a fuse.

When the doorbell button is pushed, the HSDB2A is bypasses itself in the doorbell circuit. (the HSDB2A is powered for this time by capacitors it has just for this purpose)

If you are not using a chime, when the button is pressed and the HSDB2A is bypassed, the circuit is a dead short which will quickly burn out the transformer. Using the resistor creates the load missing if a chime is not used. The voltage of the transformer will not effect the short condition.

This is detailed in the installation guide emphasized in red text blocks if you read it.
View attachment 46100 View attachment 46101 View attachment 46102

Also the reason I recommend a 24VAC transformer meant for the HVAC industry is they are generally lower priced, much higher quality and much higher VA rating (the power it can deliver similar to watts) and the chimes can easily handle the small increase in voltage. By and large, the doorbell transformers you see at Home Depot and their ilk are cheap overpriced junk (cheapness is reflected in their super low VA ratings) that often do not even deliver their rated VAC and VA.

I have read people going as high as 40VAC @ 24volts, I have a 10VAC @ 16volts and have had no problems (Mech. Chime works and have had no reboots or other issues), BUT I will be doing a couple of 24/7 RTSP feeds in the future so since many have bought the Edwards Signaling 598 120V 8/16/24V 30W Transformer Think I will order this one and install it to be safe. I don't think I will need over 30VAC (Watts). What is your take/opinion on this?
Thanks for your help...

EDIT: Meant VA not VAC

 

[David L]

Okay guys sorry for all the posts but I think I figured out the color now. I turned off WDR and things improved exponentially with the picture as you can see below. It starts out with the old color settings and then you can see the moment I turned off WDR.

Now I just wish I could figure out two way communication through blue Iris and then I would be happier than a pig in slop. PS apologies for my neighbors loud radio!

No need to apologize, we understand your excitement. I got to show off the Doorbell to about a dozen people today on my job this morning A few Ring owners saying really no monthly fees? Heard Acky Breaky Heart in your video

 

[Martin Paul Sr]

I can answer Web question, No there is no HTTP

Thank you.
There must be a Path (RSTP URL) that your ONVIF retrieved ir you set it up with ONVIF.
Any I'll manually use the RSTP URL that was provided here early in the thread.

 

[Ford]

I thin you meant VA, which is how the power of these transformers are rated. VA = VxC which is also the definition of watts. So the VA rating is important when it is too low, but makes no difference when it is greater than what is required. The higher VA rated transformers tend to be bigger, heavier and more costly. The transformer needs to have no higher VA than the power required to run the doorbell at 100% CPU cycles and the IR light on (or the power required to run the doorbell which ever is larger).

So the more VA (or watts) the better, it will not hurt anything if larger than needed.

I recommend using something like this https://www.amazon.com/White-rodger...71283&s=gateway&sprefix=24vac,aps,214&sr=8-17 unless you are using an electronic chime that is not rated for 24VAC. It is dirt cheap and will provide 40VA (probably 50+VA I would bet) (compared to the one you suggested which would only be 30VA if it actually can do it) and a name brand.

 

[David L]

I thin you meant VA, which is how the power of these transformers are rated. VA = VxC which is also the definition of watts. So the VA rating is important when it is too low, but makes no difference when it is greater than what is required. The higher VA rated transformers tend to be bigger, heavier and more costly. The transformer needs to have no higher VA than the power required to run the doorbell at 100% CPU cycles and the IR light on (or the power required to run the doorbell which ever is larger).

So the more VA (or watts) the better, it will not hurt anything if larger than needed.

I recommend using something like this https://www.amazon.com/White-rodgers-Transformer-Rating-240VAC-Voltage/dp/B009AXCCGS/ref=sr_1_17?crid=OKURYQ2VPFEG&keywords=24vac+transformer&qid=1566171283&s=gateway&sprefix=24vac,aps,214&sr=8-17 unless you are using an electronic chime that is not rated for 24VAC. It is dirt cheap and will provide 40VA (probably 50+VA I would bet) (compared to the one you suggested which would only be 30VA if it actually can do it) and a name brand.

Yeah sorry, you are correct, I meant VA (Voltage/Amps) not VAC (Voltage/AC), I don't know why I mistype that at times, getting old
Thank you for your suggestion, the one I will be replacing is attached to my attic light jbox, so that was my first search of a replacement. I could still mount your suggested transformer to a joist in the same area.

Very much appreciate your input, thank you...