New Reolink Wired POE Doorbell Cam ?

CanadaBri

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FWIW, I wrote to Reolink support to suggest / request a change in their app. Currently the only account level that can use 2-way talk with the doorbell is an admin. Normal user account can view, but is restricted from 2-way talk with a person at the door. This somewhat circumvents the purpose of having different privilege levels. In my opinion, the admin account should have access to everything, but the real intent is to configure the device. A normal user should be able to fully interact with the doorbell (which includes 2-way talk), but not have the ability to change the configuration. I am not sure how many in my house will care to use 2-way talk, but I still prefer the idea of my every day usage account on my phone, PC, etc to have the minimum required privilege level but still capable of doing everything I typically need.

They have added tie idea to the development list, but did say their priority is bug fixes. But if enough similar requests came in, the development engineer would take a closer look.

What are your thoughts on it? Splitting hairs / too nit picky? Or a valid suggestion?
 

tedrpi

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I feel like if you and I met we could talk for days. LOL But I'll keep this short for the other readers.

100% agree on POE even without reading another thread. I just can't run a cable without major work. Long story short is I have brick exterior and no room around the door casing. Inside there are walls on either side of the door with similar issue. Would have to open walls and I'm not sure I'll be here that long so not going that route. Plus, every time I open a wall in this house I open a can of worms.

I currently have DB connected to the included power brick for all this testing. When I had connected using existing doorbell wires outside, I upgraded the transformer already for the Ring DB (which is what I want to replace).

Currently the DB is on the 5 Ghz band and channel 149. I did have it on the 2.4 when outside since 2.4 does better with the brick but still had issues (which is why I reverted to the Ring DB and moved this indoors to troubleshoot. I did do a channel optimization last week since I did see other devices (phones, tablets, etc) having issues but haven't seen that since. The AP has 3x3 MIMO which helps with the "sharing". There is only one old tablet that uses the only "n" standard and it is turned off when not in use and almost never used.

I did connect those 2 other cameras and only had 1 NoSignal between the 2 of them and one of them is on the other side of the house (many walls away). In that time the DB had 6 No Signals with all 3 devices connected to the same AP. That makes me lean towards the DB or DB Wif being the issue.

I'm going to connect the ethernet cable next and see how that goes. If that fails then I'll have to get a warranty replacement.

Not DB related...
I've recently thought about converting to Omada AP's since they offer MAC Authentication Bypass (so one SSID but multiple VLANs for the different IOT). I even bought the 610 for testing but that didn't work. When I contacted support they said the only AP that supports the MAB is the 660HD. They said the others will eventually get it but they don't have timeframes for the firmwares so had to return the AP. That's the luck I've been having lately. Hence "AlwaysSomething".
If you have a 2 wire doorbell, you can covert to Ethernet POE using the same cable. After struggling with a stable wifi connection for a couple months I found a pair of 2 wire to Ethernet POE adapters. I stalked ebay and found one for ~$150, expensive but in the end worth it. There are a couple other brands out there as well.


 
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David L

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FWIW, I wrote to Reolink support to suggest / request a change in their app. Currently the only account level that can use 2-way talk with the doorbell is an admin. Normal user account can view, but is restricted from 2-way talk with a person at the door. This somewhat circumvents the purpose of having different privilege levels. In my opinion, the admin account should have access to everything, but the real intent is to configure the device. A normal user should be able to fully interact with the doorbell (which includes 2-way talk), but not have the ability to change the configuration. I am not sure how many in my house will care to use 2-way talk, but I still prefer the idea of my every day usage account on my phone, PC, etc to have the minimum required privilege level but still capable of doing everything I typically need.

They have added tie idea to the development list, but did say their priority is bug fixes. But if enough similar requests came in, the development engineer would take a closer look.

What are your thoughts on it? Splitting hairs / too nit picky? Or a valid suggestion?
Valid, makes sense to me...
 

David L

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If you have a 2 wire doorbell, you can covert to Ethernet POE using the same cable. After struggling with a stable wifi connection for a couple months I found a pair of 2 wire to Ethernet POE adapters. I stalked ebay and found one for ~$150, expensive but in the end worth it. There are a couple other brands out there as well.


Wow, did not know these existed. So to get this straight, you need an ethernet run from your network either via a POE switch or injector to your transformer and this convertor will send power and data through the 2 wires going to your doorbell? I know POE needs 6 wires on Ethernet cable...4 for data and 2 for power...

Or is this just another power source and you still use your WiFi like the amazon description stated:


Product Description
POE and Date Over 2 Wires Take your original two wires that worked with your old doorbell system and turn them into data and power wires for your Door Bird Unit. Makes installs a breeze and its much more reliable over wifi.
 
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CanadaBri

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Wow, did not know these existed. So to get this straight, you need an ethernet run from your network either via a POE switch or injector to your transformer and this convertor will send power and data through the 2 wires going to your doorbell? I know POE needs 6 wires on Ethernet cable...4 for data and 2 for power...

Or is this just another power source and you still use your WiFi like the amazon description stated:


Product Description
POE and Date Over 2 Wires Take your original two wires that worked with your old doorbell system and turn them into data and power wires for your Door Bird Unit. Makes installs a breeze and its much more reliable over wifi.
I am not sure how they do it, but yeah they are saying that you can use just 2 wires and send both power and data over them.

Datasheet

Looking at their diagram, you don't even need the transformer anymore. It suggests to me that you can have a POE video doorbell even if all you had was the traditional 2 power wires. So you would use 1 converter at the doorbell and CAT5e(or +) into it.. 2 wires out. Go to where those two wires end up (transformer location probably), and use the 2nd converter... 2 wires into it... and CAT5e(or +) out, which then goes to your POE switch(or injector) - which either is or connects to your network. The theoretical max speed is 60 mbits/sec (so 7.5 Mb/s) using that media type.
 

David L

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I am not sure how they do it, but yeah they are saying that you can use just 2 wires and send both power and data over them.

Datasheet

Looking at their diagram, you don't even need the transformer anymore. It suggests to me that you can have a POE video doorbell even if all you had was the traditional 2 power wires. So you would use 1 converter at the doorbell and CAT5e(or +) into it.. 2 wires out. Go to where those two wires end up (transformer location probably), and use the 2nd converter... 2 wires into it... and CAT5e(or +) out, which then goes to your POE switch(or injector) - which either is or connects to your network. The theoretical max speed is 60 mbits/sec (so 7.5 Mb/s) using that media type.
So you would use 1 converter at the doorbell and CAT5e(or +) into it

Interesting but I may be missing something but if you need ethernet cable at the Doorbell you don't need this at all. So there are two of these? Ok now makes sense, basically they just to utilize the existing 2 wire Doorbell cable instead of running ethernet to it. One problem I can see is these Doorbells barely have room for the 2 wires for mounting, you would have to in most cases, push this convertor into a pretty good size hole in your brick or wall...

I would assume the advantage would be for someone not being able to run an ethernet cable to their Doorbell but use this at the location where their 2 wire ends, like you said, probably at the transformer, but you would need ethernet cable to that location connected to your network either by a POE switch to POE Injector. I did notice this is only 100 Base-T, which would probably work fine since most CAMs are only 100 too.

1685467396382.png
 

tedrpi

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So you would use 1 converter at the doorbell and CAT5e(or +) into it

Interesting but I may be missing something but if you need ethernet cable at the Doorbell you don't need this at all. So there are two of these? Ok now makes sense, basically they just to utilize the existing 2 wire Doorbell cable instead of running ethernet to it. One problem I can see is these Doorbells barely have room for the 2 wires for mounting, you would have to in most cases, push this convertor into a pretty good size hole in your brick or wall...

I would assume the advantage would be for someone not being able to run an ethernet cable to their Doorbell but use this at the location where their 2 wire ends, like you said, probably at the transformer, but you would need ethernet cable to that location connected to your network either by a POE switch to POE Injector. I did notice this is only 100 Base-T, which would probably work fine since most CAMs are only 100 too.

View attachment 164462
Yup, the units are sold in pairs, both units are transceivers (send and receive). The doorbird unit takes POE ethernet in on one end and outputs POE ethernet out on the other end. Looks like the other model I linked takes in ethernet and power, then outputs POE ethernet on the other end.

Yes, they are limited to ~60-100 mpbs but like you said that's more then enough for a doorbell cam. Yes, space is a concern. I was able to cut into the interior wall behind the doorbell, install a electrical box where I terminate the existing 2-wires at the transceivers and then run a short length of ethernet to the exterior wall where my doorbell is. I've also seen folks mount a small exterior box where the transceiver is mounted, then the doorbell is mounted to the box.

They're expensive but worth it in some cases. In my case, there was no way for me to run ethernet without tearing into a significant amount of walls and ceilings.
 

Freddan101

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I'm using BI and RTSP to monitor the POE doorbell and display it on my wall tablets, but I'm using the Reolink app for the communication. Most of the times the live stream shows immediately in the app independent if I'm on LAN or mobile. Though, every now and then the live stream times out before it reloads, but then shows immediately. A very strange behavior and I haven't been able to find a common factor. This is independent of firmware version.

Has anyone else using the Reolink app experienced the same?
 

cm.

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Really happy with this doorbell so far. PoE is super reliable, and I have had zero dropouts or any issues with the stream.

I did notice that the 2-way comms via the app doesn't work (can hear the doorbell but can't speak back), will have a look at that eventually.
 

sh500

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Hi all,

I have just set up the WiFi version, seems to work well with the app.

To record and more importantly view playback of motion events, are the only record options to save to an SD card (and perhaps a Reolink NVR, which I do not have)?

My CCTV system is Hikvision inc an NVR. Was wondering if it was possibly to view recorded events on the Reolink app if the recordings are saved to a 3rd party NVR.
 

traviski

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Was wondering if it was possibly to view recorded events on the Reolink app if the recordings are saved to a 3rd party NVR.
I could not get my Hikvision NVR to recognize any events from the Reolink doorbell. I think it has something to do with the timing of how Reolink reports ONVIF motion events.

I watched the Reolink report ONVIF events using the "ONVIF Device Manager" software and the event timestamps look different than what a standard Hik camera reports.
 

TonyR

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OK, I got my first Reolink doorbell (Wi-Fi version) 2 weeks ago to be installed at the front door. Opened the breaker for the doorbell transformer and re-routed the 20VAC doorbell secondary transformer wiring to bypass the existing chime and sent power straight to the front doorbell and to the side doorbell (I'll get to that install shortly).

On the bench, with the Reolink plugged into a furnished 12VDC wall wart, I linked the front doorbell to the 5Ghz from a Netgear AP in the living room that will be just 4 feet away from the doorbell's mounting place. The Wi-Fi from the Netgear will be penetrating drywall and a 2" x 4" fiberglass insulated wall with brick veneer. I logged into the doorbell's webGUI, enabled RTMP and changed its IP setting from DHCP to static and gave it a unique IP outside my router's DHCP pool. Set up Blue iris using RTMP from a drop-down menu for Reolink RLC-410, et al (Thanks, @David L !). Unplugged the Reolink from the wall wart, as it will be powered by the existing 20VAC doorbell wiring.

Using the furnished template, I drilled 2 holes in the mortar joint, tapped in the furnished plastic anchors and mounted the included angle adapter to the wall. Then I screwed the metal bracket to the angle adapter, also using furnished screws, then after forming loops in the 2 solid wires and coating them with dielectric grease, I attached them to the 2 screws on back of the doorbell. Lastly, I mounted the Reolink onto the metal bracket with a "click". A pin-like key is furnished that you put into a hole in the bottom and push upward to un-latch the doorbell from the bracket. I closed the breaker feeding the doorbell transformer and by the time I got into the house and looked at BI's screen it was ‘up.’

I'm impressed....and I'm not easily impressed. The mechanical side and the networking/electrical side of the install went off without a hitch. I admit it's not a long time but it's been rock steady for 2 weeks now. I configured the motion detection in Blue Iris and it works but as usual, I'll be tweaking that as the days pass just as any other camera. I plugged the furnished chime into a 120VAC wall receptacle in the living room about 20 feet away and it works great.

I chose wireless mainly because of the brick.....I just didn't want drill the mortar joint and attempt to fish CAT-5e/6 cable for POE into an outside wall and up into the attic with fiberglass batting for insulation. I won't go into the boring details but I'm not physically able to do it these days and it's next to impossible to get anyone around here to do it to my satisfaction. I'm too used to doing projects like this myself after being burned so many times by dishonesty, incompetency or having to do re-work and/or cleanup after someone's poor workmanship.

My second reason for wireless is lightning. I'm sure after 9 years on IPCT some of you have read my tales of how much equipment I've lost here in NW Alabama because of a former 60 foot stretch of CAT-5e in my attic sucking up the ESD / static from nearby strikes and destroying motherboards, switches, AP's and PC Ethernet ports. I replaced that attic run of CAT-5e with Multimode Duplex 50/125um fiber and TP-LINK media converters at both ends in the fall of '22 (man, I need to write that up, too) so it would be foolish and a step backward IMO to pull in and use CAT cable up in there again.

Because I was so pleased with the first unit I ordered a second one and last week, after setting up and testing on the bench as I did with the first one, I installed it at the side door. It's also Wi-Fi and is hooked up to the 5GHz from a TP-LINK AP about 12 feet away in the utility closet where the ISP's fiber modem is located, along with the electrical panel and the water heater.

The TP-LINK's 5GHz has little trouble going through the same brick, located between a metal exterior door and a metal, double-wall insulated garage door, apparently.

Below are a few pictures because unlike the front door install the side door install posed a couple of challenges. First, 17 years of direct sun, UV and rain on the pushbutton had taken its toll on the 2 solid bell wires. The copper was corroded and the insulation split and cracked. I straightened them, burnished the exposed copper with crocus cloth, put some shrink tubing over the length to cover the insulation breakdown, formed a small loop to affix directly to the 2 screws on the back of the doorbell and lastly, generously coated them with dielectric grease.

As you can see, because of where the wire exited and its length I was limited as to how much I could move the mount up or down for the optimum view; the lower brick sticking out further than the one above it didn't help matters much either, especially since the face of these bricks is VERY rough. I was able to chip away on the lower brick’s superficial clay layer just a bit to lower the camera view sufficiently but no amount would prevent the gap behind the bracket because of the recessed mortar joint. That's OK though, as you will see that duct seal came to the rescue to keep moisture and especially our industrious dirt daubers from getting behind the bracket and into the backside of the doorbell. It's not too ugly, IMO...and when forced to make a choice I prefer function over form. You can see that I did not need nor use the angle bracket here. I will likely in the near future try to angle it down a tad, here as well as at the front doorbell.

I connected the wires, snapped the Reolink on, closed the breaker feeding the doorbell transformer and again, by the time I got into the house and looked at BI's screen there it was...just as easy as the first one.

I plugged the furnished chime into a 120VAC wall receptacle in the kitchen about 30 feet away from the side doorbell, selected a tone that is different from the front doorbell, tested, it all works great. Both doorbell cameras work great, no drop outs, the video stream is smooth, the chimes work great, the Reolink app on my Moto G Stylus 5G (Android) works great, including 2-way audio between the doorbells and the phone. I have absolutely nothing negative to say about this Reolink doorbell setup. It's been a long time since I've had a small project like this go so smoothly and turn out so well. Frankly, I’m still skeptical and as I said before, time will tell. But I can say if anyone has been on the fence about a wireless video doorbell and has hesitated because they've been reading about issues with chimes, not working with Blue Iris, the app’s slow and doesn’t work, etc....take the plunge and get one.

Reolink1_sm.jpg reolink_side_2sm.jpg reolink_side_1sm.jpg
Reolink-doorbell-BlueIris.jpg reolink-side_061523.jpg
 

sh500

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I could not get my Hikvision NVR to recognize any events from the Reolink doorbell. I think it has something to do with the timing of how Reolink reports ONVIF motion events.

I watched the Reolink report ONVIF events using the "ONVIF Device Manager" software and the event timestamps look different than what a standard Hik camera reports.
I've only just physically installed the doorbell, so wanted to set it up with the easiest working method for the time being - ie the Reolink app.

I will look in to integrating it to my Home Assistant instance. Also have Frigate (doesn't seem too popular with users on this forum?) already set up with Hik cameras.

Reading up on various sources, it seems the only thing a bit flakely with 3rd party integrations, is the 2-way audio.

So I will stick to the app until there is a confirmed working method.
 

David L

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OK, I got my first Reolink doorbell (Wi-Fi version) 2 weeks ago to be installed at the front door. Opened the breaker for the doorbell transformer and re-routed the 20VAC doorbell secondary transformer wiring to bypass the existing chime and sent power straight to the front doorbell and to the side doorbell (I'll get to that install shortly).

On the bench, with the Reolink plugged into a furnished 12VDC wall wart, I linked the front doorbell to the 5Ghz from a Netgear AP in the living room that will be just 4 feet away from the doorbell's mounting place. The Wi-Fi from the Netgear will be penetrating drywall and a 2" x 4" fiberglass insulated wall with brick veneer. I logged into the doorbell's webGUI, enabled RTMP and changed its IP setting from DHCP to static and gave it a unique IP outside my router's DHCP pool. Set up Blue iris using RTMP from a drop-down menu for Reolink RLC-410, et al (Thanks, @David L !). Unplugged the Reolink from the wall wart, as it will be powered by the existing 20VAC doorbell wiring.

Using the furnished template, I drilled 2 holes in the mortar joint, tapped in the furnished plastic anchors and mounted the included angle adapter to the wall. Then I screwed the metal bracket to the angle adapter, also using furnished screws, then after forming loops in the 2 solid wires and coating them with dielectric grease, I attached them to the 2 screws on back of the doorbell. Lastly, I mounted the Reolink onto the metal bracket with a "click". A pin-like key is furnished that you put into a hole in the bottom and push upward to un-latch the doorbell from the bracket. I closed the breaker feeding the doorbell transformer and by the time I got into the house and looked at BI's screen it was ‘up.’

I'm impressed....and I'm not easily impressed. The mechanical side and the networking/electrical side of the install went off without a hitch. I admit it's not a long time but it's been rock steady for 2 weeks now. I configured the motion detection in Blue Iris and it works but as usual, I'll be tweaking that as the days pass just as any other camera. I plugged the furnished chime into a 120VAC wall receptacle in the living room about 20 feet away and it works great.

I chose wireless mainly because of the brick.....I just didn't want drill the mortar joint and attempt to fish CAT-5e/6 cable for POE into an outside wall and up into the attic with fiberglass batting for insulation. I won't go into the boring details but I'm not physically able to do it these days and it's next to impossible to get anyone around here to do it to my satisfaction. I'm too used to doing projects like this myself after being burned so many times by dishonesty, incompetency or having to do re-work and/or cleanup after someone's poor workmanship.

My second reason for wireless is lightning. I'm sure after 9 years on IPCT some of you have read my tales of how much equipment I've lost here in NW Alabama because of a former 60 foot stretch of CAT-5e in my attic sucking up the ESD / static from nearby strikes and destroying motherboards, switches, AP's and PC Ethernet ports. I replaced that attic run of CAT-5e with Multimode Duplex 50/125um fiber and TP-LINK media converters at both ends in the fall of '22 (man, I need to write that up, too) so it would be foolish and a step backward IMO to pull in and use CAT cable up in there again.

Because I was so pleased with the first unit I ordered a second one and last week, after setting up and testing on the bench as I did with the first one, I installed it at the side door. It's also Wi-Fi and is hooked up to the 5GHz from a TP-LINK AP about 12 feet away in the utility closet where the ISP's fiber modem is located, along with the electrical panel and the water heater.

The TP-LINK's 5GHz has little trouble going through the same brick, located between a metal exterior door and a metal, double-wall insulated garage door, apparently.

Below are a few pictures because unlike the front door install the side door install posed a couple of challenges. First, 17 years of direct sun, UV and rain on the pushbutton had taken its toll on the 2 solid bell wires. The copper was corroded and the insulation split and cracked. I straightened them, burnished the exposed copper with crocus cloth, put some shrink tubing over the length to cover the insulation breakdown, formed a small loop to affix directly to the 2 screws on the back of the doorbell and lastly, generously coated them with dielectric grease.

As you can see, because of where the wire exited and its length I was limited as to how much I could move the mount up or down for the optimum view; the lower brick sticking out further than the one above it didn't help matters much either, especially since the face of these bricks is VERY rough. I was able to chip away on the lower brick’s superficial clay layer just a bit to lower the camera view sufficiently but no amount would prevent the gap behind the bracket because of the recessed mortar joint. That's OK though, as you will see that duct seal came to the rescue to keep moisture and especially our industrious dirt daubers from getting behind the bracket and into the backside of the doorbell. It's not too ugly, IMO...and when forced to make a choice I prefer function over form. You can see that I did not need nor use the angle bracket here. I will likely in the near future try to angle it down a tad, here as well as at the front doorbell.

I connected the wires, snapped the Reolink on, closed the breaker feeding the doorbell transformer and again, by the time I got into the house and looked at BI's screen there it was...just as easy as the first one.

I plugged the furnished chime into a 120VAC wall receptacle in the kitchen about 30 feet away from the side doorbell, selected a tone that is different from the front doorbell, tested, it all works great. Both doorbell cameras work great, no drop outs, the video stream is smooth, the chimes work great, the Reolink app on my Moto G Stylus 5G (Android) works great, including 2-way audio between the doorbells and the phone. I have absolutely nothing negative to say about this Reolink doorbell setup. It's been a long time since I've had a small project like this go so smoothly and turn out so well. Frankly, I’m still skeptical and as I said before, time will tell. But I can say if anyone has been on the fence about a wireless video doorbell and has hesitated because they've been reading about issues with chimes, not working with Blue Iris, the app’s slow and doesn’t work, etc....take the plunge and get one.

View attachment 165733 View attachment 165734 View attachment 165735
View attachment 165736 View attachment 165737
Congrats, welcome to the Video Doorbell Club :) The Reolink has been a good replacement for my Hikvision DB. Still wish it had WDR or BLC but I have been able to adjust things to get around this.

So my plan was to run Ethernet and replace the WiFi with the POE. Well we are moving so I skated that possibly painful cable run :) Our new house is deep in the woods which really there is no need for a doorbell, but the house has one so I will be installing either the WiFi or the POE. I have some Electrical work that needs to be done so I may have the Electrician let me know if we can get an Ethernet cable to the DB location but really the WiFi would work for me since we have a gate entrance to the property and the house sits back several acres from the road so I am not worried about any WiFi Jammers :) Since the WiFi version has been Rock Solid on this DB, I may take the lazy route...

I think your DB looks good,
 

David L

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I've only just physically installed the doorbell, so wanted to set it up with the easiest working method for the time being - ie the Reolink app.

I will look in to integrating it to my Home Assistant instance. Also have Frigate (doesn't seem too popular with users on this forum?) already set up with Hik cameras.

Reading up on various sources, it seems the only thing a bit flakely with 3rd party integrations, is the 2-way audio.

So I will stick to the app until there is a confirmed working method.
Works great with Home Assistant. No 2-way but after 3 plus years of having a VideoDoorBell (VDB) I really never used the 2-way. Delivery drivers drop and run and rarely even ring the doorbell anymore. We had a family member at our door while we were away and we got our instant push notification on our phones from Home Assistant, we just called them from our phone, lol ;)...I understand this does not work for strangers but I don't care to talk to sales people anyway :)

I have the Doorbell as the default (first) tab when launching the Home Assistant App so it is pretty much as fast as any VDB App, just no 2-way...(FYI, we have both our (wife's and my) phones login into OpenVPN 24/7)
1687177659808.png

So if you ever want to get away from their Cloud App:

 

TechBill

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Works great with Home Assistant. No 2-way but after 3 plus years of having a VideoDoorBell (VDB) I really never used the 2-way. Delivery drivers drop and run and rarely even ring the doorbell anymore. We had a family member at our door while we were away and we got our instant push notification on our phones from Home Assistant, we just called them from our phone, lol ;)...I understand this does not work for strangers but I don't care to talk to sales people anyway :)

I have the Doorbell as the default (first) tab when launching the Home Assistant App so it is pretty much as fast as any VDB App, just no 2-way...(FYI, we have both our (wife's and my) phones login into OpenVPN 24/7)
View attachment 165776

So if you ever want to get away from their Cloud App:

You might want to look into Scrypted - Scrypted

I am using it and I love it on my Apple ecosystem but it does support Google or Alexa ecosystem as well too from what I read. I believe I read somewhere that it support 2 way audio on Reolink cameras. I could be wrong but I believe it what I read. Since you are running Home Assistance then you should be able to add Scrypted docker on the same hardware that you are running Home assistance on to "try it out" and I believe I also saw that it have a home assistance bridge on Scrypted so it possible you could have a functioning 2-way audio through Scrypted.

I am running Scryted docker on a minimac with Ubuntu OS and it's managing all of my Dahua cameras plus my Amcrest AD410 doorbell. My Dahua NVR are still recording 24/7 so I am not using Scrypted to store recording. I am using Apple Homekit AI detection feature which work pretty good but there is one bug is that Apple notification is alerting all motions including objects that can't be determined by AI. So you get every alerts on Apple device and if AI know what it is then it'll mentioned in alert like person, vehicle, package etc otherwise it'll just say "motion detected"

My cat just sitting down not moving in the front make AI trigger an alert "package detected" lol .. you can enabled which detection you want on each camera to alert you but you cannot disable the "motion detected" on any of the camera .. I think it a bug and hopefully Apple fix this soon. AI on Apple Homekit is pretty good and save me the pain of having to set up an AI analysis hardware and software bridge to my cameras.
 

sh500

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Works great with Home Assistant. No 2-way but after 3 plus years of having a VideoDoorBell (VDB) I really never used the 2-way. Delivery drivers drop and run and rarely even ring the doorbell anymore. We had a family member at our door while we were away and we got our instant push notification on our phones from Home Assistant, we just called them from our phone, lol ;)...I understand this does not work for strangers but I don't care to talk to sales people anyway :)

I have the Doorbell as the default (first) tab when launching the Home Assistant App so it is pretty much as fast as any VDB App, just no 2-way...(FYI, we have both our (wife's and my) phones login into OpenVPN 24/7)
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So if you ever want to get away from their Cloud App:

Yep, I knew setting up the doorbell with my HA and Frigate would be pretty straight forward and it was. Have the 'rich notifications' working for the various detectors without the Reolink cloud subscription.

You're right about deliveries, they do not really hang about long enough to talk to. I guess it's more to have the feature because the function is available via the app.
 

David L

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Yep, I knew setting up the doorbell with my HA and Frigate would be pretty straight forward and it was. Have the 'rich notifications' working for the various detectors without the Reolink cloud subscription.

You're right about deliveries, they do not really hang about long enough to talk to. I guess it's more to have the feature because the function is available via the app.
On my Hikvision (LaView) DB1 variant I used the EZVIZ App, tried a few different Apps. It was hit or miss on the 2-way talk. Even when it did work there is always that annoying delay like all VDBs. Then add the poor quality of sound. It worked but I personally did not find it that useful. I admit, that was one of the features that attracted me to the Video Doorbells in the first place. Thought it would be Kewl :)

Wouldn't you know it after buying one, 3 years ago, it was not very long after that less and less Delivery Drivers would ring the Doorbell. UPS stopped all together, I just get them taking a picture of the package they deliver :) FedEx is a hit or miss, guess it depends what is being delivered. USPS is about the same. Amazon, well they are all over the place, their contractors drop, throw, pitch the packages, then run off, haha, One rang the doorbell 2 times LOL, most don't.

Thinking they think if they ring the doorbell they would have to wait and talk to someone...I understand most are over worked and rushing to get their packages delivered...

One thing I am thankful for on the Reolink is that it's Settings are not App dependent. They did that one right. On the Hikvision certain setting was not available in the Batch Config. Tool and required the App,
 
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