Looking at the dotworkz Tornado Dual POE. I don't really need active cooling since it will be in the shade and the ambient temperature outside will never come close to exceeding the rated operating ambient temp.
The max operating temp is 122F. My 635s are 140F and are in enclosures with no ventilation, so an enclosure with blowers should do the trick provided the lens is isolated somehow from dusty air.
Yeah I would shop around if can get somewhat better pricing but Also see what it is along with shipping and Warranty. Also now its coming back to me since its been couple of years, I also had mine from Dotworkz because I updated the front plastic lens to Glass along with somewhat tamper proof screw which for screws really you can still get the bit anywhere if you like for those temper proof screws.
but again they are pricey and you have to order in bulk for what you want... Again maybe someone here might know a better company which is less pricey but I just always had on my wish list but never ended up buying those..
So not sure, but it appears the s-type tornado does not exchange any air with the outside. It just circulates air inside the enclosure to ensure the heat is evenly distributed which will help but given how much heat the sony gives off, the inside of the enclosure might exceed 122F when it's 110 outside which has happened this year a few times. Last year, it the hottest days didn't exceed 103F.
I might need to modify it slightly and make dust proof barrier between the lens on the body and leave one of the cable openings open to the air.
@tech101, which cooldome do you have 24 or 12vdc? What power supply are you using? Have you measured how much power it actually draws on a hot day? I assume when it's cool enough in late fall, winter, and early spring that it doesn't consume any power? Is there a thermostat you can set?
@tech101, which cooldome do you have 24 or 12vdc? What power supply are you using? Have you measured how much power it actually draws on a hot day? I assume when it's cool enough in late fall, winter, and early spring that it doesn't consume any power? Is there a thermostat you can set?
I have the 12v, I believe its using the Meanwell Powersupply which came with the unit. I am not to worried about the power consumption draw so not sure what the draw is.. I think it has a thermostat built in...
I have the 12v, I believe its using the Meanwell Powersupply which came with the unit. I am not to worried about the power consumption draw so not sure what the draw is.. I think it has a thermostat built in...
The literature says it's thermostatically controlled but nowhere does it say what the setpoint is or if it's adjustable. I'd consider it if it wasn't just pulling a full 144 watts 24 / 7 even in the winter but given there's no mention of what the temperature it controls to or if it's adjustable makes me wonder if 'it's truly a thermostat.
The literature says it's thermostatically controlled but nowhere does it say what the setpoint is or if it's adjustable. I'd consider it if it wasn't just pulling a full 144 watts 24 / 7 even in the winter but given there's no mention of what the temperature it controls to or if it's adjustable makes me wonder if 'it's truly a thermostat.
Not sure if you saw my post from last year but there is a picture and a link to the possible thermostat they are using.. hope this is helpful. Again I don't know how in the Enclousure box you looking into has it been implemented. I can tell you one thing Dotworkz customer service is extremely helpful when I emailed them last year they went above and beyond to explain and even at times draw into my images to help me understand some stuff...
Exact reason I picked this camera, SNC-VB770 is the best in security camera seems to be on the planet when it comes to low light. :D Here is a very in depth review on this camera :D https://securityelectronicsandnetworks.com/articles/2017/05/16/sony-snc-vb770-camera-review-let-there-be-light/...
I have worked with that style of thermostat.
It does open and close at a temperature that is set when manufactured.
It has an internal concave/convex bi-metal disc meaning two different metals fused together with a slight depression/dome.
Uses two different types of metal, that expand/contract at different rates when temperature changes, causing disc to alternate which side is concave/convex.
When convex on side with small white plastic shaft electrical contacts are pushed open.
Transition is fast preventing contacts arcing.
Specifications are sometimes printed on black plastic or white ceramic body of switch.
Example:
L135-15C
First charter on left (L)
L = limit switch (open on rise)
F = fan switch (close on rise)
Adjacent set of numbers (135)
Upper temperature trip
Then spacer (-).
Set of numbers right side of spacer (15)
Differential for lower temperature trip, in this example 135-15 = 120 degrees.
Right side letter (C)
F = Fahrenheit
C = Celcius
If spacer and numbers to right of spacer are omitted, then like a fuse is not intended to reset on temperature drop.
In this example.
When temperature rises to 135 degrees celcius contacts go open.
When temperature drops to 120 degrees celcius contacts close.
I ended up ordering the Dotworkz ST-TR-POE+P-SS which powers the blower and still passes through POE+ for a camera. i.e. the camera is powered by POE+ as well as the blower from a single cable going into the enclosure.
Although there's a heater that comes on at 40F, the enclosure is not insulated which if it were would slow down the transfer of heat from the enclosure to outside.
I was a little skeptical at first since it doesn't provide any active exchange of heat through either active cooling (like cooldome) or air exchange (since it's IP66), but after talking with the sales at Dotworkz, they actually led me away from the Cooldome and said that my proposed environment would be more than handled by the Dual Tornado S-Type enclosure with a VB770 consuming 5 to 7 watts continuously. The conditions are it will receive only shade and could see ambient temps outside of up to 112F on the worst days in the summer for a few hours. For reference, the outside temp in the shade at my house reached 108.2F on 9/6/2022 at 5:10 pm.
123Security refunded my order and said the product was no longer available. I checked their site and it still showed but was now $104 more at $596. They then clarified that it was no longer available at that price. So I went to the next site that had the $492 price:
Designed to Simplify Powering of Housing using one Ethernet Cable for Power and Data, via PoE+ External RJ-45 Quick Connect (IP66 connector) for quick installation Integrated Thermostatically controlled Heater Integrated 10 CFM Blower fan For low power box / brick style cameras up to 18w
www.surveillance-video.com
...and ordered it. Within 10 minutes, the price shown went up to the same $596. My order doesn't show canceled yet, but I suspect they'll do that soon vs eat the cost.
I ended up ordering 12v Cooldome after all. Bought from ebay still wrapped in plastic. I made a $250 offer and they accepted it. I called Dotworkz first to make sure I could still get the regular aluminum arm which is $127 and the camera mount plate $25. Since I'm mounting the power supply inside and running the 12 volt cable to it, I don't need the exterior supply and the stainless arm that fits the supply in it.
Ordered it from 123Security... the same company that previous canceled my s-type tornado order. I ordered the aluminum arm for $143 total (shipping included) and the plate for $21 + ($20 shipping) for a total of $41. Just a bit higher and I would have tinkercaded one myself and printed it.
It's here. Bench testing it now. Fan draw without AC is 8 watts. With AC it starts at 180 watts and settles down to 160 watts within a minute. Initially the thermostat with a hair dryer just to make sure it comes on. Now it's sealed with a SensorPush wireless temp sensor to log the temperature. Shortly I'll stick it in an enclosure about 3x3x3 and use a small heater to raise it 120F and then log both interior and exterior temps.
So good and bad news. The bad news first. The enclosure doesn't cool as much as advertised. So either the advertised cooling requires special conditions or my ebay Cooldome is defective. It's able to cool interior down 14 degrees. For example, if it's 104 degrees in a room, the camera running in the enclosure at 5 to 7 watts raises the temperature to 108 degrees. So this is the good news it's only a 4 degree rise in temp over ambient outside the enclosure with no power applied to the cooling or the recirculating fan. Disclosure, the temp sensor is behind the camera between the camera and the non running fan at the back of the enclosure. It's almost certain that if I could run the fan when it's 108 degrees but without active cooling turned on, that the temp would rise because there's a lot more heat on the sides of the camera than the back and without the fan running, you'll get hotspots that greatly exceed the 108 temp without the enclosure.
When active cooling engages, the temp drops 14 degrees. The heat sink on the exterior gets VERY hot and the interior gets very cold. I guess I should hit them with an IR gun or my FLIR attachment to look at the temp difference. The exterior vent blows hot air. It's clear that the piezoelectric heat exchange is very inefficient. I'd guess that 95% of the electricity used is turned directly into heat itself. I think the efficiency might improve with higher air speed on the heat sinks given just how much temp differential there is between them.
So it will do the job. On a rare 110F day which would raise the interior to 114, the temp will be maintainable at 100F. I might replace the thermostat with a 95F-105F vs the 85F-95F that it comes with.
I got shipping notification for the mounting plate and the regular steel arm (the one that doesn't fit the power supply inside). All in all, into it for about $450 with everything shipped plus tax. A heck of a discount over spending $1000 on a new unit. The prices have gone up several hundred in the last 6 months.
Ran another test but below the cooling activation threshold so that just the circulating fan is going. This results in a 14F difference between the interior and exterior. This means the true cooling capacity is 24F which is far more reasonable.
