Reolink decided not to add iFrame interval because it'll cause issues for "some people".

Should Reolink add iFrame Interval to their cameras?

  • Yes

    Votes: 37 100.0%

  • No

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • Total voters
    37
TL1096r said:
I had lagging issues and skipping with BI and reolink so i quit and just use reolink app which gives no issues and records fine, I see no need for blue iris for my needs but can see how it can come in handy for others.
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The reolink software will keep you locked into reolink cameras and is completely subpar compared to blue iris or milestone...using their software is not a solution..they falsely advertised their cameras as blue iris compatible...they then lied on this forum relating denying the issue. Reolink should be avoided at all costs and returned if possible.
 
Thanks, TL1096r! I wasn't planning on keeping the ReoLinks, but if that solves some of the flakiness I experienced recently where the camera would just go offline, I guess I can always us them for additional angles.

Agreed, I have UID and UPnP turned off, though the cameras are on their own VLAN with only access to the Blue Iris server.
 
cb8 said:
Thanks, TL1096r! I wasn't planning on keeping the ReoLinks, but if that solves some of the flakiness I experienced recently where the camera would just go offline, I guess I can always us them for additional angles.

Agreed, I have UID and UPnP turned off, though the cameras are on their own VLAN with only access to the Blue Iris server.
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using his solutions wastes cpu consumption as you cant use hardware acceleration despite claims otherwise....send the crap back and note the reason so this garbage company realizes that they cant lie to end users and get away with it. A negative amazon review would help as well.
 
That's a good point. Right now I can't use hardware acceleration anyway with Blue Iris running inside a VM on an AMD box, but that's certainly something that needs to be remedied at some point either by a dedicated Intel box w/QuickSync or an NVR. If I had just bought them I'd certainly send them back, but currently they're more than a year old.
 
cb8 said:
Thanks, TL1096r! I wasn't planning on keeping the ReoLinks, but if that solves some of the flakiness I experienced recently where the camera would just go offline, I guess I can always us them for additional angles.

Agreed, I have UID and UPnP turned off, though the cameras are on their own VLAN with only access to the Blue Iris server.
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thank @rnatalli as this was his post.

I have only used the reolink app so far and not BI due to lag and skipping with all settings I tried, I need to look into some more.
 
fenderman said:
using his solutions wastes cpu consumption as you cant use hardware acceleration despite claims otherwise...
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No longer true. There is no need to disable hardware acceleration so long as the firmware is up to date.
 
rnatalli said:
Because they don't search. You still have to turn off 3D NR and raise the buffer to 20MB for Reos to work in BI.
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I'm reading this thread with interest because I have a RLC-423 and I've never had any issues with using it in Blue Iris. I'm trying to remember when I first got it... I think last Sept or Oct (2016)? Anyway, out of the box it worked fine using the generic RTSP and ONVIF for the ptz controls. It's on the latest firmware now but since it worked before and works now, I couldn't really say if they fixed anything because, for me, there was nothing to fix.

Maybe the posts in this thread are about the non PTZ units?

Oh, and the comments about disabling 3D NR don't really work for me... If I do that, the noise in low light is HORRIBLE.

All in all, I don't mind my RLC-423. My biggest complaint is the auto focus is pretty slow, especially at night. It will focus in/out and I can see it go right past the point of best focus and keep on going. Maybe half the time it'll then go back to that point and stay... good. The other half of the time, it gives up and remains horribly out of focus until I zoom in or out a bit and it tries again, hopefully with better results.

In the daytime it's not a problem, and at night I usually leave it where it is anyway, only panning around if there's something interesting just out of the frame.

Would I buy another 423? Probably not, unless they really worked on the autofocus and were able to make it less grainy in low light. Even *with* 3D NR turned on, there's still just too much grain even with the exposure set to "low noise".

I've read with interest the discussions about the Dahua Starlight PTZ... I may have to pick one of those up for my main "corner" of the house, and demote the Reolink to the backyard or something.
 
mpbcam said:
I'm reading this thread with interest because I have a RLC-423 and I've never had any issues with using it in Blue Iris. I'm trying to remember when I first got it... I think last Sept or Oct (2016)? Anyway, out of the box it worked fine using the generic RTSP and ONVIF for the ptz controls. It's on the latest firmware now but since it worked before and works now, I couldn't really say if they fixed anything because, for me, there was nothing to fix.
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Replying to myself... just after posting this, I went to the Reolink site and noticed there was a Feb 16, 2017 firmware for the RLC-423. I wonder if that's the "new firmware" that Blue Iris mentioned in the latest release notes.

Anyway, throwing caution to the wind I installed that firmware... Had to reset my presets for the PTZ but oh well.

In the end, it's still working fine, and I noticed that (because it reset things to defaults) the nasty low light noise was actually better than before. I realized it's because when I enable WDR (either the default gain of 1-62 or whatever else I tried) it was just noisy when it's dark and the IR was on. By the way, it's not noisy in the brightly lit areas where the IR hits, it's just in the darker portions outside that cone. I have it mounted about 22 feet up pointed towards my unlit culdesac starting maybe 40 feet out. It lights the driveway and landscaping okay, but it's that dark street that gets noisy without 3D NR (and just slight noise when that's enabled).

One nice thing (although it made little different in operation) is that with the new firmware I could finally enable the Reolink PTZ controls in Blue Iris. Prior to that it worked okay with the ONVIF controls, so really not a big thing, but nice to know.

A few days back when Blue Iris updated to be able to use the RTMP instead of RTSP for the Reolink, I tried that out and it worked fine... still works now, and it worked fine with RTSP previously as I mentioned. If I'd had this newer firmware but the older Blue Iris I wonder if that would have caused problems...

All that aside, looking at nayr's awesome video / screenshot comparisons of the Dahua Starlight models has pretty much convinced me that's the way to go. My unlit street should really put something like that to the test. I used to have a Dahua 4300 bullet in that spot (and still have two of them in other places). Replaced that high corner with the PTZ and it actually does do a better job than that 4300S at night, but now I'm thinking "I can still do better" :) And don't even get me started on the couple of old Foscam wifi bullet "bricks" I still have for the less interesting outdoor areas... LOL. When I upgrade, I don't get rid of the old stuff, I just move them to cover the less important places. Do we all do that?
 
Camit said:
Just to test them out I like messing around with different brands
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Dahua are definitely the better camera and value these days, but I too like to mess around and that's what I did some time ago and ended up not bothering to replace my Reos.
 
mpbcam said:
Replying to myself... just after posting this, I went to the Reolink site and noticed there was a Feb 16, 2017 firmware for the RLC-423. I wonder if that's the "new firmware" that Blue Iris mentioned in the latest release notes.

Anyway, throwing caution to the wind I installed that firmware... Had to reset my presets for the PTZ but oh well.

In the end, it's still working fine, and I noticed that (because it reset things to defaults) the nasty low light noise was actually better than before. I realized it's because when I enable WDR (either the default gain of 1-62 or whatever else I tried) it was just noisy when it's dark and the IR was on. By the way, it's not noisy in the brightly lit areas where the IR hits, it's just in the darker portions outside that cone. I have it mounted about 22 feet up pointed towards my unlit culdesac starting maybe 40 feet out. It lights the driveway and landscaping okay, but it's that dark street that gets noisy without 3D NR (and just slight noise when that's enabled).

One nice thing (although it made little different in operation) is that with the new firmware I could finally enable the Reolink PTZ controls in Blue Iris. Prior to that it worked okay with the ONVIF controls, so really not a big thing, but nice to know.

A few days back when Blue Iris updated to be able to use the RTMP instead of RTSP for the Reolink, I tried that out and it worked fine... still works now, and it worked fine with RTSP previously as I mentioned. If I'd had this newer firmware but the older Blue Iris I wonder if that would have caused problems...

All that aside, looking at nayr's awesome video / screenshot comparisons of the Dahua Starlight models has pretty much convinced me that's the way to go. My unlit street should really put something like that to the test. I used to have a Dahua 4300 bullet in that spot (and still have two of them in other places). Replaced that high corner with the PTZ and it actually does do a better job than that 4300S at night, but now I'm thinking "I can still do better" :) And don't even get me started on the couple of old Foscam wifi bullet "bricks" I still have for the less interesting outdoor areas... LOL. When I upgrade, I don't get rid of the old stuff, I just move them to cover the less important places. Do we all do that?
Click to expand...

Can you elaborate, I am using RLC-411 models but they are all behind the reolink NVR, I am experiencing choppy skipping but the image is very clear - I am using this settings:
Optimizing Blue Iris's CPU Usage | IP Cam Talk

I tried to lower the FPS to 16fps but when I look it is always at 30fps for some reason.

If anyone knows what settings work with the reolink nvr to remove any choppiness please share it here, if I could I would return it but I had this close to 16 months now and cannot return it, with the reolink software it is smooth but the video quality is not the clearest.

While I do not agree with reolink practices and what they are doing, my only option is to make the best of it until it fails and I switch to a real brand like Dahua.

Thanks
 
TL1096r said:
Can you elaborate, I am using RLC-411 models but they are all behind the reolink NVR, I am experiencing choppy skipping but the image is very clear - I am using this settings:
Optimizing Blue Iris's CPU Usage | IP Cam Talk

I tried to lower the FPS to 16fps but when I look it is always at 30fps for some reason.

If anyone knows what settings work with the reolink nvr to remove any choppiness please share it here, if I could I would return it but I had this close to 16 months now and cannot return it, with the reolink software it is smooth but the video quality is not the clearest.

While I do not agree with reolink practices and what they are doing, my only option is to make the best of it until it fails and I switch to a real brand like Dahua.

Thanks
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Are you lowering the frame rates in the camera/nvr or in blue iris, you need to lower it in the camera/nvr not blue iris.
 
fenderman said:
Are you lowering the frame rates in the camera/nvr or in blue iris, you need to lower it in the camera/nvr not blue iris.
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Bi, but I thought it might override it, I'm not sure if I can set it on the NVR, if I cannot can I set it on the camera and would it matter even though video is coming from the NVr?
 
TL1096r said:
Bi, but I thought it might override it, I'm not sure if I can set it on the NVR, if I cannot can I set it on the camera and would it matter even though video is coming from the NVr?
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blue iris cannot adjust frame rates using the fps setting- if it did it would be pointless because it would toss frames and you would get no benefit.. ...you MUST set it in the camera/NVR...in blue iris it is simply a reference that auto adjusts..
 
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