To IDENTIFY at 60 feet out, there are not many options. The turret/eyeball focal lengths max out around 13.5mm and you need 32mm or more. A bullet camera or PTZ are the only options....but....they do make the Z4E in a dome camera though, but not recommended outdoor unless it is protected....and it is actually fairly large.
The camera (Loryta IPC-B5442E-Z4E) It has an option for adding a MIC Q. Does the camera power the mic or will I need a separate 12v ps? Also I want to hang this camera from my soffit Right now I have an eyeball mounted there backed by a 6" square 3/4" plywood on the other side of the aluminum. Would that be enough support for this new camera - it weighs about 3 lbs
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To IDENTIFY at 60 feet out, there are not many options. The turret/eyeball focal lengths max out around 13.5mm and you need 32mm or more. A bullet camera or PTZ are the only options....but....they do make the Z4E in a dome camera though, but not recommended outdoor unless it is protected....and it is actually fairly large.
@tng5737,
Start with the lens to really conceal it...
Kidding aside there's also the 5241-z12e if you need to reach out a little further than the z4e. If you are worried about aesthetics, mount the cameras further back with more zoom. You can position the camera and zoom it to a pinch point to get an ID of the perp as he/she moves through the pinch point.
Here's a where I want to mount it. Than will give me more flexibility in aiming it to where I need coverage. I'm not after LPR. I have a separate server which is running AIHomeGuard more as an experiment but it has been surprisingly good at tripwire operations. Would prefer to use BI but haven't figured out how yet.
BTW, the police woman who cam to our house after the last incident (jul 03) was looking at my BI setup and remarked that she had to get more cameras for her house
Here's a where I want to mount it. Than will give me more flexibility in aiming it to where I need coverage. I'm not after LPR. I have a separate server which is running AIHomeGuard more as an experiment but it has been surprisingly good at tripwire operations. Would prefer to use BI but haven't figured out how yet.
So the soffitt is aleady white LOL, so nobody will see the bullet. You could even tuck the support back a little closer to the downspout to further hide it.
Yes, but that would leave a 3/4" hole along with a lot of separate screw holes from all my previous cameras - it would look pretty bad and allow little critters to get to the attic. I would have to replace the soffit which would be a bit more work than I'd care to do right now.
Then put it where that one is - either way it is high enough that most won't see it.
I never completely cut away the soffit for the cabling - I cut a square and leave one part intact and push it up into the recessed area. Then if I move or relocate a camera, I simply pull it down and the remnants are minimal and can silicone match the holes if needed. But lately I have been using aluminum stock and sliding into the parts holding the soffit so I do not even have to worry about screw holes anymore.
I always mount the camera by spanning the soffit with aluminum flat stock and route the cable in the grooves under the flat stock. No holes in the soffit, at all, and good support for the camera. It does require being able to access the soffit, but since everything is thin aluminum it can be bent to slide out a soffit panel, route the cables, then bend everything back into shape.
I always mount the camera by spanning the soffit with aluminum flat stock and route the cable in the grooves under the flat stock. No holes in the soffit, at all, and good support for the camera. It does require being able to access the soffit, but since everything is thin aluminum it can be bent to slide out a soffit panel, route the cables, then bend everything back into shape.
If you use this method, a quick step-by-step for painting aluminum.
1. After cutting, drilling, de-burring and assembling the pieces wash the assembly using a Scotch Brite and dish detergent, Dry it thoroughly. This removes the surface oxide coat so paint can bind properly.
2. Apply a coat of aluminum primer immediately after drying the assembly and allow it to dry for 24 hours. Apply a second coat and allow that to dry for 24 hours. Neither coat needs to be a heavy coat, thinner is better. There is a specific primer for aluminum.
3. Apply a couple of finish coats to match your soffit color. No sanding between coats is needed, but allow a full day, or longer, after the final coat before installing.
