Remember if you bought this and have not applied the custom firmware then Auto Tracking will NOT exist as the feature was removed. Once you add the custom FW to add the functionality back you should be good
Review - Dahua SD49225XA-HNR 2MP 25x Starlight + IR PTZ AI Camera with Deep IVS & SMD Plus
- Thread starter Wildcat_1
- Start date
Remember if you bought this and have not applied the custom firmware then Auto Tracking will NOT exist as the feature was removed. Once you add the custom FW to add the functionality back you should be good
oh wow. Add to the differences: with IE and the installed plug in, the live view actually shows all the IVS tripwires and detection boxes.
big difference. windows firewall was not happy about something to do with activeX, but I allowed it.
Hmph....it's so pretty nowEven more icons (triple shot, record, etc) uptop.
@Holbs yes I've mentioned this a number of posts that IE is the key here. If you see 'weirdness' in settings not sticking then absolutely make sure you use IE. There are a few exceptions, some FW's that were released that work well with Firefox but most only work with IE 100%. Let us know with any other issues you may see. You can also use the AI NVRs to great effect with Spotter / Overwatch as I've shared before BUT BI works too.
I tried doing the search on IPTC for browsers or plugins. So many hits came up that I must of missed your earlier suggestions.
No problem at all. You are in a better place now with IE, that’s the main thing. As always feel free to reach out if you need any assistance.
sebastiantombs
Known around here
sebastiantombs
Known around here
Not to hijack this post, but wondering if anyone else has a bad glare with their 49225XA camera? I pointed the camera up purposely to show this. It's normally pointed further down, but still get the glare. Any advice on fixing it? Or is this normal? Seems slightly out of focus too. Purchased from Andy a couple weeks ago.
Last edited:
All cameras will have that glare but the lens size on this is bigger than a 2.8mm or 4mm fixed, so it will appear more pronounced. Are you running auto shutter and settings? You could knock that down some with settings and backlight settings, but then it may degrade the images you are trying to obtain.
Hey wittaj, everything for the most part is set to auto/default settings. The pic is set with WDR at 50%. What other settings would you recommend? If it's normal then I won't mess with it too much. Just didn't notice it before in my testing phase. Now that it's permanently installed at its location, I'm trying to fine-tune the settings a bit more. Ended up going back to default settings.
@sdl0311 - the WDR at 50% is probably contributing to that soft out of focus that you are seeing. Try to fix images with other settings first and only use backlighting as a last choice and use it as low as possible.
Turn off backlight and take it off auto settings at night unless you like seeing Casper. Auto settings in most situations for shutter will produce a great static picture, but motion is complete crap with blurring and ghosting. You have more light than most, but it would probably still benefit by not being on auto shutter for example.
Go into shutter settings and change to manual priority and start with custom shutter as ms and change to 0-8.3ms and gain 0-50 for starters. Auto could have a shutter speed of 100ms or more and gain up at 100 which will contribute to significant ghosting.
Now what you will notice that happens immediately is your image gets A LOT darker. That faster the shutter, the more light that is needed. But it is a balance. The nice bright night image results in Casper during motion LOL. What do we want, a nice static image or a clean image when there is motion introduced to the scene?
So if it is too dark, then start adding ms to the time. Go to 10ms, 12ms, etc. until you find what you feel is acceptable as an image. Then have someone walk around and see if you can get a clean shot. Try not to go above 30ms as that tends to be the point where blur starts to occur.
You could up the brightness to offset some of that darker image with a faster shutter.
You can also add some gain to brighten the image - but the higher the gain, the more ghosting you get. Some cameras can go to 70 or so before it is an issue and some can't go over 50. Mine starts ghosting at 53.
But adjusting those two settings will have the biggest impact. The next one is noise reduction. Want to keep that as low as possible. Depending on the amount of light you have, you might be able to get down to 40 or so at night (again camera dependent), but take it as low as you can before it gets too noisy. Again this one is a balance as well. Too smooth and no noise can result in soft images.
Then take the PTZ through the range of motion that you want it to cover and make sure that it isn't too dark for everywhere you want to cover. If it is dark, then adjust a little more.
How is the autotracking working for you - do you need some tips or help dialing that in?
Turn off backlight and take it off auto settings at night unless you like seeing Casper. Auto settings in most situations for shutter will produce a great static picture, but motion is complete crap with blurring and ghosting. You have more light than most, but it would probably still benefit by not being on auto shutter for example.
Go into shutter settings and change to manual priority and start with custom shutter as ms and change to 0-8.3ms and gain 0-50 for starters. Auto could have a shutter speed of 100ms or more and gain up at 100 which will contribute to significant ghosting.
Now what you will notice that happens immediately is your image gets A LOT darker. That faster the shutter, the more light that is needed. But it is a balance. The nice bright night image results in Casper during motion LOL. What do we want, a nice static image or a clean image when there is motion introduced to the scene?
So if it is too dark, then start adding ms to the time. Go to 10ms, 12ms, etc. until you find what you feel is acceptable as an image. Then have someone walk around and see if you can get a clean shot. Try not to go above 30ms as that tends to be the point where blur starts to occur.
You could up the brightness to offset some of that darker image with a faster shutter.
You can also add some gain to brighten the image - but the higher the gain, the more ghosting you get. Some cameras can go to 70 or so before it is an issue and some can't go over 50. Mine starts ghosting at 53.
But adjusting those two settings will have the biggest impact. The next one is noise reduction. Want to keep that as low as possible. Depending on the amount of light you have, you might be able to get down to 40 or so at night (again camera dependent), but take it as low as you can before it gets too noisy. Again this one is a balance as well. Too smooth and no noise can result in soft images.
Then take the PTZ through the range of motion that you want it to cover and make sure that it isn't too dark for everywhere you want to cover. If it is dark, then adjust a little more.
How is the autotracking working for you - do you need some tips or help dialing that in?
Thanks, I'll start with that advice! Autotracking is hit or miss. Day time it usually does a decent job, but also wanders and locks on to other parked cars after the target continues moving. Does a pretty decent job on people. But again, sometimes it loses the track and goes back to preset and will pick it back up if it's still getting triggered. At night, its mostly miss than hit. That's a big part of why I went back to default settings. Not sure what I did, but it started to randomly track my parked car in driveway or other random objects for no reason. I will have to play with that a lot more when I can get some "victims" in my view to track.
Adjusting the settings can make a big difference.
Just the snow cover and the overall image being brighter caused mine to miss tracking compared to no snow.
Just the snow cover and the overall image being brighter caused mine to miss tracking compared to no snow.
Great info! This could be a thread of its own! Have you considered writing a wiki to cover all the different settings, what they do, and what a good starting place is? I’ve looked for explanations for some settings before but haven’t found a one-stop shop for the info. It’s a real possibility I overlooked it somewhere if such a thing does exist.
This kind of detail would go great with the common camera problems thread.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
ljw2k
Known around here
You can adapt your ptz lens from the inside or outside and use a camera's filter like Kenko/Hoyo or B/W to remove glare but no doubt this would darken the picture slightly. Look at Dashcams I have adapted mine with a Polorised filter to stop glare.
Now I have glare Free dashcam images,
Now I have glare Free dashcam images,
Last edited:
Definitely don't want to be setting all to auto. Need to dial this in manually to your specific FOV, back down noise reduction as well as otherwise you'll lose detail and introduce blue. Gain wise try not to go above 50 unless you really have to. Remember if you're pushing the software based enhancements then you need to reconsider the overall shot. Therefore in some cases better to go B&W for crisper, smoother motion caps than go color just for the sake of it. Similarly you can do what I recommend to others as well which is have more than 1 cam covering an area, configure one with larger sensor for color and then use the other on B&W. Can also setup spotter and overwatch cam configs this way to truly benefit from a PTZ perspective as I've shown in my posts or assisted others with. The image itself (albeit just a screen cap of course) is also a little soft too. Reach out direct if you want any assistance and can jump on the cam and take a look live, dial it in as I have for @wittaj and others. Happy to help where I can.
Last edited:
Hi all, I'm currently experiencing a new problem. Hopefully someone can provide me some insight or advice on what's going on here and how I can fix it. My problem is the PTZ identifies a person or car, will try to lock on the target but quickly drop back to preset in less than a second. Then it picks the target back up the second time. It is happening like this every time there is a motion (car or person). As you can see in my 2 video examples it notices the intrusion, ptz starts to track, then drops back to preset immediately, then picks the target back up. When it does this to vehicles, it's sometimes too late to track. Any idea what is causing this? The PTZ is running on this POE. So I wouldn't think it would be a power issue, plus it's been working fine for the past two weeks, when I first installed it. The camera was purchased from Andy. Has anyone ever seen this before? Any thoughts on how to fix it? I'm going to do a reset in a little bit to see if that fixes it or not.
As an Amazon Associate IPCamTalk earns from qualifying purchases.
ljw2k
Known around here
What size have you set for "Tracking Size" Also those tracking clips look ok to me and looks like you are trying to track a smaller object which is out the camera's range and would suggest a little more zoom if you want to capture and track from that far away.
Remember AT is not 100% but very good on this camera especially as it is the Low End Budget PTZ in Dahua's range.
Remember AT is not 100% but very good on this camera especially as it is the Low End Budget PTZ in Dahua's range.
This can generally be caused by a couple of things but the 2nd is most likely if you haven't dialed that in:
1 - Autohome setting - Where you tell it to go home after x seconds
2 - Combination of Alarm Track Time + Tracking Target Size under Deep IVS
Take a look at my PTZ review videos where I show how to dial in and the importance of Tracking Target Size to ensure constant and consistent tracking throughout the period of time you have set in the Alarm Track Time
As an Amazon Associate IPCamTalk earns from qualifying purchases.