Review-OEM 4mp AI Cam IPC-T5442TM-AS Starlight+

hello, new to the site, just read this monster!!!
Hey, andewMRI take the cut off connector and use a multimeter in ohms mode to pin out the wires.
meters are cheap and you will have your answers quickly

going to order a few of these cameras.

He said above that he ripped the wires out from the connector when trying to cut into it to open it up.
 
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I do have a second working camera (same model). On the working camera, can I open it and use a multimeter to safely test the internal wires with the pins on the connector, or would that require stripping them? I don't really want to touch the working camera if possible. Can a multimeter cause damage to the working camera?
 
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If you're careful, no, not at all. Just make sure you stay on the connection point of each wire and no where else. I'd use a patch cable plugged into the RJ45 of the camera and a clip lead to make a good connection there and leave both my hands free.
 
If it’s unplugged and on a bench the continuity testing the lead won’t damage it. Just make sure that you are gentle and don’t accidentally bend any of the leads within the network socket lead from the cam.
 
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It works!

I wasn't able to get any readings on the continuity test, there wasn't enough exposure at connection inside the camera so I bought a soldering iron and spliced the camera wires to a piece of CAT6 and keystoned that instead. Should have just done this in the first place before destroying the original connector I guess... oh well. Turns out my keystones were too cheap for the thin camera wires and not all of the connections were being made despite multiple attempts.

I can confirm the pinout is as expected:
1 - brown
2 - purple
3 - orange
4 - yellow
5 - yellow
6 - blue
7 - gray
8 - gray

Thanks everyone!
 
I think I found explanations for 2 of the IVS Global Setup settings:

Anti-Disturb Enable
Select "Enable" to enable anti-disturb function.
It is to filter leaf shake and water ripple which cause disturbance to the
device intelligent analysis.

Sensitivity
The bigger the value is, the easier for low contrast target and small
target to be triggered, the bigger the virtual detection rate is, the bigger
the false detection rate becomes.
 
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just bit into another 5442 thanks @EMPIRETECANDY :wave:, the tm-as, to go along with my 5442-Z4E bullet.. this will do front entry duties, and across the road. I WISH Amazon Andy had the 3.8mm. model listed there, but I think it will be OK. Its replacing an Amcrest 4k bullet with a small lens. That amcrust can't see in the dark worth a damn.
 
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The 3.6mm and 6mm right now no stock, because of the coronavirus, all work delayed, i think still have to wait around 2 weeks. Today is the 1st day back to work, but most industrial still can't work, have too many docs to submit to the gov.We all waiting to ship out the backorders when we get the permission. I think this week will be most important week to control the virus, ithe infection data drop again. So it's a good news.
 
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That sure is good to hear that the infection rate is on the decline. Everyone has their eye on this.
 
I'm having a problem with my second of three of these I purchased. I started a thread on it HERE. Hopefully, it's not a cam issue and something else.
 
Hi everyone, is the PFB204W the only way to mount this camera if my cable is coming out of a brick wall? And are there any photo examples of how people have wall mounted it?

I was planning to mount this on the under side of my soffit but things changed and my cable is now coming out of the brick wall so I need to understand how to mount to the wall. Also I can't see how the PFB204W would allow me to hide the cables...

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
 
It can be mounted directly to the wall, or on an appropriate box. It has more than enough pan/tilt available to handle just about any mounting position and the camera housing, itself, is weather tight.
 
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It can be mounted directly to the wall, or on an appropriate box. It has more than enough pan/tilt available to handle just about any mounting position and the camera housing, itself, is weather tight.
Great thanks, that's good to know. I would prefer directly on the wall but I'd have to make the hole in the wall bigger to shove the camera pigtail into it so will have to look into that.

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Great thanks, that's good to know. I would prefer directly on the wall but I'd have to make the hole in the wall bigger to shove the camera pigtail into it so will have to look into that.

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
There is plenty of room in the PFB204W to place your connections into the mount.
A plate mounts to the brick, then you secure the mount over the top of the plate with a set screw.
 
There is plenty of room in the PFB204W to place your connections into the mount.
A plate mounts to the brick, then you secure the mount over the top of the plate with a set screw.
Thanks. I've managed to find some pics of turret style cameras mounted directly onto a wall and it doesn't look as bad as I first thought - because this will be at the front of my house I'd rather keep it as simple as possible hence preferring to mount directly rather than use the arm mount. All I have to sacrifice is a slightly larger hole to put the cables into...
 
Hi everyone, is the PFB204W the only way to mount this camera if my cable is coming out of a brick wall? And are there any photo examples of how people have wall mounted it?

I was planning to mount this on the under side of my soffit but things changed and my cable is now coming out of the brick wall so I need to understand how to mount to the wall. Also I can't see how the PFB204W would allow me to hide the cables...

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
You can also use a junction box made for your camera.
 
All I have to sacrifice is a slightly larger hole to put the cables into...
I drilled a 25mm hole through the masonry, and can push the sealed CAT housing and power cable into it. Because the wall is rendered and painted it isn't a big problem if patching is required later. The low profile installation is less imposing.

Cheers, Steve
 
Just make sure you seal it really well. I'd use Duct Seal but I don't know if something like that is available "down under". It's a putty like substance used to seal electrical service entrance cables or conduits as an example. Use it in the hole as well as make a rope to go under the top 270 degrees or so of the camera base plate. Make sure no water can encroach. The beauty of products like Duct Seal is that it doesn't harden, even at low temperatures or with age so it can be pretty easily removed when necessary.