Thieves took my DVR!

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Possible. Unless they put a flexble camera below the door to inspect it from the outside. I dunno.

There's something very strange about this. You average burglar doesn't carry scopes. Nor do they go through all the rigmerole of removing fencing panels, multiple doors, turning power off, carry saws that go through doors in specific places, moving cameras.

I don't know what you had of value in that house, but this seems like a very targetted attack by professional thieves.

The average burglar would climb the fence, not bother with the power nor cameras but simply wear a mask, jemmy a door or more likely smash a window with a bar of some type, grab stuff and leave. The fact you had someone go to such trouble and search the whole house so methodically means there was something there that someone wanted badly and was prepared to pay professional theives / thugs to retrieve.

This screams to me drugs, gold or jewellery with someone on the inside. It could be you have none of those items and it was mistaken identity - they got the wrong house, rare with professional but it can happen. But this was not your average burglary. There's either something your not telling us, or you were mistakenly targetted. If that the latter, I'd be worried. If this was eg someone who thought there might be any of those items in your home, they may be back and this time to beat the location out of you or worse. I don't mean to scare, but this definately sounds more and more like a pro job and I'd be having serious conversations with LEO's.
 
There's something very strange about this. You average burglar doesn't carry scopes. Nor do they go through all the rigmerole of removing fencing panels, multiple doors, turning power off, carry saws that go through doors in specific places, moving cameras.

I don't know what you had of value in that house, but this seems like a very targetted attack by professional thieves.

The average burglar would climb the fence, not bother with the power nor cameras but simply wear a mask, jemmy a door or more likely smash a window with a bar of some type, grab stuff and leave. The fact you had someone go to such trouble and search the whole house so methodically means there was something there that someone wanted badly and was prepared to pay professional theives / thugs to retrieve.

This screams to me drugs, gold or jewellery with someone on the inside. It could be you have none of those items and it was mistaken identity - they got the wrong house, rare with professional but it can happen. But this was not your average burglary. There's either something your not telling us, or you were mistakenly targetted. If that the latter, I'd be worried. If this was eg someone who thought there might be any of those items in your home, they may be back and this time to beat the location out of you or worse. I don't mean to scare, but this definately sounds more and more like a pro job and I'd be having serious conversations with LEO's.
100%
 
Maybe they gave Waze or Google maps the wrong address. The Diamonds and Cocaine were probably across the street at the neighbors. Dang GPS!
All that recon and tools and effort, and perhaps they made a typo...:cool:
 
I know most of you are in the USA. Do you have power distribution boxes on the external aspect of the house that can be freely accessed by anyone?
For the most part, yes. I think it's done in the name of safety, so for example firefighters can shut down all of the electrical system. Even if there wasn't an outdoor shutoff, it's pretty fast and easy to pull the electric meter out of its socket, making the system dead. Many years ago, the meters were often inside the house, but that went away a long time ago. I have a battery-backed solar system that powers most of the house when the grid feed is lost. There's no outside shutoff because it's over 10 years old. New systems need to have an easily accessible emergency shutdown, again in the name of safety.
 
I can make whatever bad life decisions I choose to.

Rule #1: You're a grown ass man.

;)
I still don't know what you're talking about in your reply #41 to me ( "I'm a grown man" ) and then this above ( "I can make whatever bad life decisions I choose to") but as long as you do, then that's what matters, I guess. :idk:
 
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I still don't know what you're talking about in your reply #41 to me ( "I'm a grown man" ) and then this above ( "I can make whatever bad life decisions I choose to") but as long as you do, then that's what matters, I guess. :idk:
I suppose I don't understand your original comment either.

I took it that you were referring to the gap in my positive connection and it could arc against something. Is this not correct?

Or were you just referring to the battery, wire, and connector size?
 
I suppose I don't understand your original comment either.
I was merely pointing out the bare place on the hot battery leg near the chassis.
I took it that you were referring to the gap in my positive connection and it could arc against something. Is this not correct?
That's correct.
Or were you just referring to the battery, wire, and connector size?
No....see the 2 above.

What I don't understand is your responses about being a grown man. I understand that and I was not trying to infer that you were not.

You say you already fixed it which to me says you also saw the bare place that was near the metal chassis as a potential problem so I don't get it that you seem annoyed that someone else would notice it and point it out.

I was not trying to be critical or be a smartass, just trying to be helpful, as I know from firsthand experience that a high-capacity battery with heavy gauge conductors and no means of current limiting can start a serious fire under certain circumstances....it can burn your whole house down.

If you're saying you're a grown man and it's your choice to burn your house down and it's none of my business then I agree...go ahead and let it burn, baby, burn...your house, your choice.

You'll hear no more from me.
 
I was merely pointing out the bare place on the hot battery leg near the chassis.

That's correct.

No....see the 2 above.

What I don't understand is your responses about being a grown man. I understand that and I was not trying to infer that you were not.

You say you already fixed it which to me says you also saw the bare place that was near the metal chassis as a potential problem so I don't get it that you seem annoyed that someone else would notice it and point it out.

I was not trying to be critical or be a smartass, just trying to be helpful, as I know from firsthand experience that a high-capacity battery with heavy gauge conductors and no means of current limiting can start a serious fire under certain circumstances....it can burn your whole house down.

If you're saying you're a grown man and it's your choice to burn your house down and it's none of my business then I agree...go ahead and let it burn, baby, burn...your house, your choice.

You'll hear no more from me.
The chassis of the UPS is actually plastic, so it was not as big of an issue as perceived.

My comment was meant in jest, inline with the image below.

1677850676990.png
 
Not sure what the OP does for a living or even his neighbors. Perhaps it wasn't about "valuables". Perhaps it was about OP possibly captured video of a neighbor doing something illicit. Or perhaps, whoever removed the DVR felt there was something on the recording to be used as blackmail against the OP or to embarrass the OP. You ever think that your cams could capture a crime committed by a real bad, bad dude and this dude realizes his crime may have been captured by you. Maybe you don't realized you captured a crime....maybe bad dude doesn't know either and can't risk it. Wasn't there a movie or two made about this....LOL.
 
SO now we have to operate in color mode. Welp, there goes the electric bill.
 
Colour was always the way forward anyway. Also, whilst I haven't seen figures, I don't see ti being much more expensive to run. If running lots of IR leds, colour that uses ambient lighting isn't likely to be more expensive. As for supplementary lighting such as PIR controlled led floods, if you have these anyway, no difference in cost.
 
I have 11 cams....all in IR mode at night. Total extra power in IR mode is 30W extra. Not really much you can do with 30W of floodlight around the entire house. I'm thinking I probably need a minimum of 350 - 400 watts bare minimum to light everything up.
 
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