smacks head
That's it! That pretty much caused all the extra options to appear! Thanks!
I knew that it couldn't be my browser. Seems ridiculous for something made in 2021 to mandate IE.
Which new Intel NUC?
- Thread starter Corvus85
- Start date
smacks head
That's it! That pretty much caused all the extra options to appear! Thanks!
I knew that it couldn't be my browser. Seems ridiculous for something made in 2021 to mandate IE.
CCTVCam
Known around here
- Sep 25, 2017
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- 3,709
Yeah Andy needs to feed this back to Dahua as MS have now withdrawn IE and it will be disabled in Windows 11:
/cdn.vox-cdn.com/uploads/chorus_asset/file/14009273/ie9logo.1419971092.png)
Windows 11 is deleting Internet Explorer
The future is Microsoft Edge in Windows 11.
www.theverge.com
Chrome or Firefox seem to be better bets these days for a supported CCTV browser. Be good if Dahua could update firmare to move away from IE to one or both of these.
I'm using Chrome. I don't get it though - I don't see any differences between using IE and Edge/Chrome for the CCTV WebUI on 2 of my systems. Am I missing something?
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Where should Exposure Compensation be set to generally? Shouldn't I set it as low as possible and rely on shutter speeds as much as possible because it might introduce additional noise?
Also, how do I cut down on delay? Currently there's at least 1.5 second delay from something happening, and then seeing it happen on the WebUI. I'm currently encoding in H264, smart codec off @ 2688x1520.
Also also, I was just playing around with the 'Day & Night' settings and noticed when I switched to Color, I'm getting a smattering of twinkling white pixels across the picture (it's currently night). What is this? Is this normal? Something to do with the noise reduction maybe?
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Exposure Compensation is fine at 50 and then adjust it to try to balance the light (a better way to try than WDR first - although some fields of view do need to use WDR).
All IP cameras will have a time lag. Analog cameras are real time, which is why backup cameras on cars are analog and not digital.
Some factors that can contribute or minimize the lag is not running the camera through a router. The data demands go up with motion and then you lose signal or get a significant delay. A lost packet and it has to resend. It can bring the whole network down if trying to use it through a wifi router. At the very least it can slow down your system.
Unlike Netflix and other streaming services that buffer a movie, these cameras do not buffer up part of the video, so drop outs are frequent. You would be amazed how much streaming services buffer - don't believe me, start watching something and unplug your router and watch how much longer you can watch NetFlix before it freezes - mine goes 45 seconds. Now do the same with a wifi camera and it is fairly instantaneous (within the latency of the stream itself)...
And yes this applies to hard-wired in addition to wifi cameras as it is trying to send all this non-buffer video stream through a router. Most consumer grade wifi routers are not designed to pass the constant video stream data of cameras, and since they do not buffer, you get these issues.
At the very least, put your camera and computer on the same switch and then a cable from that switch to the router.
The white pixels is noise coming and going. One of the things you will realize playing with these types of cameras is how much light is actually needed to keep the camera in color at night. Most of us either add more light and still have to force it into color (I have 33,000 lumens coming off the front of my house and still have to force color or is will auto B/W), or run B/W with infrared.
You can up the noise reduction to eliminate that, but at how dark that image is, then motion will be a blur running color and NR high to eliminate the dancing pixels.
All IP cameras will have a time lag. Analog cameras are real time, which is why backup cameras on cars are analog and not digital.
Some factors that can contribute or minimize the lag is not running the camera through a router. The data demands go up with motion and then you lose signal or get a significant delay. A lost packet and it has to resend. It can bring the whole network down if trying to use it through a wifi router. At the very least it can slow down your system.
Unlike Netflix and other streaming services that buffer a movie, these cameras do not buffer up part of the video, so drop outs are frequent. You would be amazed how much streaming services buffer - don't believe me, start watching something and unplug your router and watch how much longer you can watch NetFlix before it freezes - mine goes 45 seconds. Now do the same with a wifi camera and it is fairly instantaneous (within the latency of the stream itself)...
And yes this applies to hard-wired in addition to wifi cameras as it is trying to send all this non-buffer video stream through a router. Most consumer grade wifi routers are not designed to pass the constant video stream data of cameras, and since they do not buffer, you get these issues.
At the very least, put your camera and computer on the same switch and then a cable from that switch to the router.
The white pixels is noise coming and going. One of the things you will realize playing with these types of cameras is how much light is actually needed to keep the camera in color at night. Most of us either add more light and still have to force it into color (I have 33,000 lumens coming off the front of my house and still have to force color or is will auto B/W), or run B/W with infrared.
You can up the noise reduction to eliminate that, but at how dark that image is, then motion will be a blur running color and NR high to eliminate the dancing pixels.
Yeah Andy needs to feed this back to Dahua as MS have now withdrawn IE and it will be disabled in Windows 11:
Windows 11 is deleting Internet Explorer
The future is Microsoft Edge in Windows 11.
Chrome or Firefox seem to be better bets these days for a supported CCTV browser. Be good if Dahua could update firmare to move away from IE to one or both of these.
Andy and Dahua and all other camera manufacturers are all aware that Explorer is truly dying a slow death. But they centered their firmware around what was at the time the most prominent browser and never had the reason to update it. This isn't just a Dahua problem - all manufacturers suffer this in some form or fashion.
Some cameras work fine with Chrome. Some don't. Others show all functionality with Chrome, yet the settings don't stick and save in Chrome. Or they wipe out with a reboot. Write down all your settings and then check it in a few days, or reboot the camera and see if they stuck. Again, maybe they do, maybe they don't.
But as long as they use firmware that was designed around Explorer, most of us don't take chances and use Explorer. Probably the most "famous" issue is the autotracking camera that will default to track for only 15 seconds if any browser other than Explorer is used.
For those that do not know...use IE browser for Dahua (and others?) camera GUI to see more options
I've been using Chrome since I bought my first Dahua camera from Andy last year (the good 'ol 4231's). I was able to log in, see menu options, do the config, save, logout....all done. Always wondered how folks were able to see the AI detection boxes livestream and other stuff which I thought...
What are the reasons as to why certain browsers mostly work while some do not on Dahua GUI?
As many find out...using Chrome browser interferes with Dahua camera GUI where as things just do not work right after hitting save (FW updates, auto-tracking seconds, no IVS lines on main view, etc). For those that do not know....do not use Chrome. Most folks use the older Microsoft IE browser...
My camera isn't running through wifi though. Everything is wired. Both the old Swann IP cameras and the Annke camera I bought earlier all have no more than 1/2 second delay. This Dahua however has a 1.5 - 2.0 second delay using the same network.
I'm noticing that Exposure comp makes no difference under manual shutter/gain settings. Even after I click 'save'. Is this normal?
Also, why does turning BLC on all of a sudden result in a cleaner, almost noise-free picture? I thought it had nothing to do with noise?
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Yeah, you will only really see a difference in few fields of view, at least that is my experience. Most of the time I don't see a difference either.
All of the backlight conditions are using algorithms to clean up the image, and in some instances the NR is cranked up to compensate, but then motion is a complete blur. It is why we say to try EVERY other setting first to improve the picture rather than simply going to backlight as a first option.
Too many people simple crank WDR on at 50 and the image looks great, but then motion sucks. I have adjusted shutter, brightness, contrast, gain etc. first and then if WDR is needed, I am at like 4 on the scale, which produces a good motion video.
Unlike still cameras, you need to rethink what looks good as an image - we can make all of these cameras produce a great still image, but motion is where we need these to perform. So for any setting you make, then have a test subject go past the camera to make sure it still results in clean motion.
Like I said, I know this camera is not wifi, but if it is running through the wifi router, it can cause delays. This camera is more than likely better than the Swann and Annke cameras and has more data demands than those two cameras. The lower end cameras play games to keep bandwidth down and that ends up resulting in poor motion video in the process.
What FPS and iframes are you running at? You only need 12-15FPS for surveillance video. Match FPS and iframes.
I'm running at 15fps and an iframe interval of 15.
Now that you mention it, why can't I run 30/30? If the objective is to get smooth motion and usable still shots of an intruder, wouldn't more frames be advantageous? Storage space or system resources isn't really an issue in my case.
Yep, most of us started with the mindset that 30 or 60 FPS is needed.
Then we learn that shutter speed is more important than FPS. 60 FPS can provide a smoother video but no police officer has said "wow that person really is running smooth". They want the ability to freeze frame and get a clean image. So be it if the video is a little choppy....and at 10-15FPS it won't be appreciable. My neighbor runs his at 60FPS but, so the person or car goes by looking smooth, but it is a blur when trying to freeze frame it. My camera at 12 FPS produces a video that has the ability to freeze frame and actually get a clean capture.
Why is that???
Keep in mind that these type of cameras and NVRs, although are spec'd and capable of these various parameters, real world testing by many of us shows if you try to run these units at higher FPS and higher bitrates than needed that you will max out the CPU in the unit and then it bugs out just long enough that you miss something or video is choppy. My car is rated for 6,000RPM redline, but I am not gonna run it in 3rd gear on the highway at 6,000RPM...same with these types of units - gotta keep them under rated capacity. Some may do better than others, but trying to use the rated "spec" of every option available is usually not going to work well, either with a car or a camera or NVR.
None of us want to run our computer maxing out at 100% CPU, well these cameras have little CPUs in them as well and using every rated spec maxes out the little CPU in it. If the camera CPU is maxing out, something's gotta give, and to keep producing 30 or 60 FPS, shutter speed is usually what suffers in the process.
Look at all the threads where people came here with a jitter in the video or IVS missing motion or the SD card doesn't overwrite and they were running 30FPS and when people tell them to drop the FPS and they dropped the FPS to 15FPS the camera became stable. As always, YMMV...
I have a cheapo camera I use for overview purposes, but one of the cool things that camera has though in the gui is it shows the CPU usage. If I max out the FPS, bitrate, use it's motion detection and set it to middle sensitivity, the CPU maxes out 100% quite often. If I run it at 15 FPS with an appropriate bitrate and motion detection at a reasonable level, the CPU sits around 40%. I suspect even the more expensive cameras function close to this.
Unlike Netflix and other streaming services that buffer a movie, these cameras do not buffer up part of the video, so drop outs are frequent. You would be amazed how much streaming services buffer - don't believe me, start watching something and unplug your router and watch how much longer you can watch NetFlix before it freezes (mine is 45 seconds). Now do the same with a wifi camera and it is fairly instantaneous (within the latency of the stream itself)...
Most consumer grade wifi routers are not designed to pass the constant video stream data of cameras (even if hard wired), and since they do not buffer, you get these issues.
These types of cameras are not GoPro or Hollywood type cameras that offer slow-mo capabilities and other features. They "offer" 30FPS and 60FPS to appease the general public that thinks that is what they need, but you will not find many of us here running more than 15 FPS; and movies are shot at 24 FPS, so anything above that is a waste of storage space for what these cameras are used for. If 24 FPS works for the big screen, I think 15 FPS is more than enough for phones and tablets LOL.
Then we learn that shutter speed is more important than FPS. 60 FPS can provide a smoother video but no police officer has said "wow that person really is running smooth". They want the ability to freeze frame and get a clean image. So be it if the video is a little choppy....and at 10-15FPS it won't be appreciable. My neighbor runs his at 60FPS but, so the person or car goes by looking smooth, but it is a blur when trying to freeze frame it. My camera at 12 FPS produces a video that has the ability to freeze frame and actually get a clean capture.
Why is that???
Keep in mind that these type of cameras and NVRs, although are spec'd and capable of these various parameters, real world testing by many of us shows if you try to run these units at higher FPS and higher bitrates than needed that you will max out the CPU in the unit and then it bugs out just long enough that you miss something or video is choppy. My car is rated for 6,000RPM redline, but I am not gonna run it in 3rd gear on the highway at 6,000RPM...same with these types of units - gotta keep them under rated capacity. Some may do better than others, but trying to use the rated "spec" of every option available is usually not going to work well, either with a car or a camera or NVR.
None of us want to run our computer maxing out at 100% CPU, well these cameras have little CPUs in them as well and using every rated spec maxes out the little CPU in it. If the camera CPU is maxing out, something's gotta give, and to keep producing 30 or 60 FPS, shutter speed is usually what suffers in the process.
Look at all the threads where people came here with a jitter in the video or IVS missing motion or the SD card doesn't overwrite and they were running 30FPS and when people tell them to drop the FPS and they dropped the FPS to 15FPS the camera became stable. As always, YMMV...
I have a cheapo camera I use for overview purposes, but one of the cool things that camera has though in the gui is it shows the CPU usage. If I max out the FPS, bitrate, use it's motion detection and set it to middle sensitivity, the CPU maxes out 100% quite often. If I run it at 15 FPS with an appropriate bitrate and motion detection at a reasonable level, the CPU sits around 40%. I suspect even the more expensive cameras function close to this.
Unlike Netflix and other streaming services that buffer a movie, these cameras do not buffer up part of the video, so drop outs are frequent. You would be amazed how much streaming services buffer - don't believe me, start watching something and unplug your router and watch how much longer you can watch NetFlix before it freezes (mine is 45 seconds). Now do the same with a wifi camera and it is fairly instantaneous (within the latency of the stream itself)...
Most consumer grade wifi routers are not designed to pass the constant video stream data of cameras (even if hard wired), and since they do not buffer, you get these issues.
These types of cameras are not GoPro or Hollywood type cameras that offer slow-mo capabilities and other features. They "offer" 30FPS and 60FPS to appease the general public that thinks that is what they need, but you will not find many of us here running more than 15 FPS; and movies are shot at 24 FPS, so anything above that is a waste of storage space for what these cameras are used for. If 24 FPS works for the big screen, I think 15 FPS is more than enough for phones and tablets LOL.
Ok help.
It's getting to be sunset here now, and the camera is wildly switching between day and night modes.
I've got Profile Management set to Day/Night and the sensitivity on both Day and Night profiles is set to low, but it's constantly and immediately switching between them. What do I do??
It's getting to be sunset here now, and the camera is wildly switching between day and night modes.
I've got Profile Management set to Day/Night and the sensitivity on both Day and Night profiles is set to low, but it's constantly and immediately switching between them. What do I do??
Yeah, the day/night feature of the cameras suck LOL.
Either set a schedule that you will need to go in periodically and update the schedule based on sunrise/sunset, or use this utility that a member created to switch from day and night properly:
ipcamtalk.com
Either set a schedule that you will need to go in periodically and update the schedule based on sunrise/sunset, or use this utility that a member created to switch from day and night properly:
Dahua day/night switch utility - DahuaSunriseSunset
With the help of @105437 I was able to reproduce the issue and find a solution. In this case I think my initial suspicion was right. It seems that with the code library I was using for sunrise/sunset calculation, if you use UTC timestamps and the event (sunset in this case) is near midnight...
Yeah, the day/night feature of the cameras suck LOL.
Either set a schedule that you will need to go in periodically and update the schedule based on sunrise/sunset, or use this utility that a member created to switch from day and night properly:
Dahua day/night switch utility - DahuaSunriseSunset
With the help of @105437 I was able to reproduce the issue and find a solution. In this case I think my initial suspicion was right. It seems that with the code library I was using for sunrise/sunset calculation, if you use UTC timestamps and the event (sunset in this case) is near midnight...
Ok this is turning out to be a disaster.
The house has several motion-detected lights around the perimeter, as well as outdoor lighting for entertaining at night.
I need these cameras to switch reliably from night to day mode whenever these lights turn on.
However, if I somehow tweak the settings to trigger from night to day when the lights are on, as soon as I turn them off, it fails to fall back into night mode - AND VICE VERSA.
In the process, I lose my perfectly-tuned night settings, and (I assume) my day settings will be HUGELY OVERBLOWN as soon as the sun comes up.
This CANNOT be how this product is meant to be used, surely? The 12 year old Swann system seems to handle this flawlessly, how is it that these cameras - which cost TWICE THE AMOUNT aren't able to do this?
The utility you mentioned is useless for me because all it does is make it easier to schedule manually - and as I just explained - I don't want to set it to a schedule, I want the camera to detect automatically when to switch.
How the hell do I achieve this extremely basic task???
Ok so I forced the 'day' profile to 'color' and the 'night' profile to 'B&W', and when switching the backyard light on, the camera now switches reliably. However, I suspect that it will still have the problem of constantly switching back and forth as soon as sunrise comes.
Again, the utility above will not help this because then it will mean I will lose the functionality of it auto-switching when the lights are turned on.
How do I fix this?
Again, the utility above will not help this because then it will mean I will lose the functionality of it auto-switching when the lights are turned on.
How do I fix this?