Worlds First Review - Dahua DH-IPC-PFW5849-A180-E2 - Dual Lens 180 Degree Full Color 4K (8MP Stitched) Camera

looktall

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Have you tested the cable you're using for this camera?
 

Heavyopp

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Have you tested the cable you're using for this camera?
Tested how? From what I've read, cheap testers are just that, cheap and do nothing but continuity.
It's new cable out of the box. I did install the ends. Yes I could have a bad end install, always possible. Why would I have lights on cam if bad cable?
 

looktall

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Why would I have lights on cam if bad cable?
Because power and data use different pairs.
you can have a POE device power on but not send data.
Or send data but not power on (requires external power).
 

wittaj

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Over the last few months I have had to do factory reset on several of my cameras (which i purchased from Andy). Not really sure, but only a small issue in my books. Most of my issues were surrounding shutter speed selection being applied and very slow connection to the cam gui's, the factory reset cleared them up, but to note I had to reconfig them manually because the config import had cause the same issues to happen a short time later.
I mention here frequently that many people see wonky things until a factory reset, especially the new GUI and BI for some reason.

As a matter of standard practice now, every new camera gets 3 factory resets before I set it up.

Maybe just luck or coincidence, but it does seem like a factory reset when one first gets the camera is a good way to start off without issues.
 

Heavyopp

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OK understood -- It did work for 7 or 8 hours today while I was at work. Is that typical of a wire issue, to go bad slowly?

I can always pull the cam down again tomorrow and set it up on my test tombstone. Maybe I should change the other connector too -- On the switch end. I have no real way of testing them other than plugging in another camera.
 

Heavyopp

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I mention here frequently that many people see wonky things until a factory reset, especially the new GUI and BI for some reason.

As a matter of standard practice now, every new camera gets 3 factory resets before I set it up.

Maybe just luck or coincidence, but it does seem like a factory reset when one first gets the camera is a good way to start off without issues.
No BI yet, just camera GUI -- I'm thinking a factory reset can't hurt -- tomorrow.
 

Heavyopp

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So this is starting to point more towards a camera issue...
What I've done:
New RJ45 ends, both sides cam and switch.
Factory hard reset 3 times. Still can't connect, illumination lights on camera are on. No green light on port on switch.
Switch ports on switch to a know good port. Remove a cam from switch to use it's port. 5 cameras on an 8 port switch.
Can finally get into camera
Initialize cam no issues
Format SD card.
Program time settings - I use day, night, and General for those changing dusk and dawn hours.
Start setting exposure and playing with display settings for day, night and general. All is good at 1st, camera responding fast, hitting apply and getting a fast "operation successful".
Then it gets slow, and I get operation failed. Cam still responds but very slow. Then it goes dark and I lose connection. This is about the same point in programming that I lost the connection previously.
Illumination lights stay on on camera. Green light on switch port is now dark.

Got me thinking power issue so I pull this wire from the 8 port switch and hook up a 4 port switch along with the 8. Plug only the 180 cam into the 4 port switch along with line in.
No change. Cannot access cam.

What is going on? I'll hard reset again but I'm not hopeful. Firmware upgrade? I won't be able to tell what firmware I'm on till I hard reset to get cam back.

Any thoughts?
 

zexoni70

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Hello Everyone!
Last year, my friend bought two EmpireTech IPC-Color4K-T180 cameras from Endy and a few days ago we noticed that the LED lights on them did not light up.

Now I'm interested in whether it is included somewhere in the settings, and specifically that it does so by setting it so that when the camera detects some movement (human or vehicle) so that only then does the camera only turn on the LED lights?

Where to set it and how to turn on the LED lights on the camera on motion...?

Thank you!

1.jpg2.jpg
 
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wittaj

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Hello Everyone!
Last year, my friend bought two EmpireTech IPC-Color4K-T180 cameras from Endy and a few days ago we noticed that the LED lights on them did not light up.

Now I'm interested in whether it is included somewhere in the settings, and specifically that it does so by setting it so that when the camera detects some movement (human or vehicle) so that only then does the camera only turn on the LED lights?

Where to set it and how to turn on the LED lights on the camera on motion...?

Thank you!

View attachment 196260View attachment 196261
They are under the illuminator settings.

This camera focuses on image quality, so the white light is not motion activated. It is either on or off. Otherwise the image would be too dark and wouldn't be able to detect motion.
 

MTL4

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OK understood -- It did work for 7 or 8 hours today while I was at work. Is that typical of a wire issue, to go bad slowly?

I can always pull the cam down again tomorrow and set it up on my test tombstone. Maybe I should change the other connector too -- On the switch end. I have no real way of testing them other than plugging in another camera.
I use one of these quite regularly and it hasn't let me down yet for testing my ethernet cables.

 
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carteriii

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Are any of you using this or any of the newer dual lens cameras at night in B&W mode with external IR illuminators and if so, are they just as good as other cameras with similar sensors (like the IPC-HDW5231R-ZE & newer IPC-T54IR-ZEB-S3) with external IR illumination at night? What is the impact (if any) of not having the IR cut filter at night?

I ask because I have several of the old "boobie" cameras, both the old (original I think) DH-IPC-HDBW4231FN-E2 and the next generation IPC-HDBW5441F-AS-E2. The old 4231 in particular continues to annoy me since the firmware/IVS was always limited.

For me, these cameras are just overview/spotter cameras for me capturing subjects 100+ feet away in locations that I cannot or at least don't want to mount two separate cameras to get 180 degrees of coverage. Obviously the built-in IR illuminators on them have always been worthless because of the glass domes over each lens, and 100 feet is too much range for the built-in illuminators anyway, so I installed external IR illuminators long ago. It is tempting to try one of these newer dual lens cameras, but I have zero ambient light at night and would be entirely dependent upon my IR illuminators. I do not want to use any visible illumination. Clearly these cameras were not intended to be used that way (or they would have come with some IR illumination), but would they still be a worthwhile step up from the DH-IPC-HDBW4231FN-E2 and IPC-HDBW5441F-AS-E2? I'm going through every thread that I can find and so far haven't seen any posts about black & white performance at a reasonable distance with an IR illuminator. Thanks in advance!
 

bigredfish

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You could run them in B&W but they wont/can't see IR and of course have no IR onboard. Its all about white light with that camera
 

carteriii

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Ah, I didn't realize that they could not even see IR. I just assumed that B&W mode would at least pick up those higher wavelengths but I guess that was a really bad assumption on my part. In that case, they definitely won't work for me. Thanks for that clarification.
 
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I try to find where in latest firmwares Dahua moved Image Stitching settings (to calibrate left/right image stitching point)?
Going over all menus for 20 minutes and I can't find it...
 
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I try to find where in latest firmwares Dahua moved Image Stitching settings (to calibrate left/right image stitching point)?
Going over all menus for 20 minutes and I can't find it...
I'm running this:
System Version:3.120.0000000.19.RBuild Date:2023-03-01

For me, SPLICING is located at CAMERA > SPLICING

What firmware are you on?
 
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