Connection issue

GeoffColl

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What cable did you use? It must be Solid Copper cable, and not CCA, Copper Clad Aluminum.
For that distance it would be advisable to use 23awg size cable as well.
Sadly CCA, 24awg - but another 225 works well at 105 metres - probably not good enough for the 425.
The other at 105metres is on solid copper 24awg - not too sure why I didn't repeat that order!
 

GeoffColl

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What can I say - I don't read widely enough- I was obviously just lucky in choice with the first 100metres - CCA elsewhere on much shorter runs (<50M) didn't alert me ......
At least the replacement is advertised as solid copper (in capital letters) and 23awg.... Will test it out with the cam before I string it up!
 

Mars Bar

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This camera does my head in. You can walk right in front of it and it will just fly up or to the side and not even track. Then sometimes it will track perfectly. Honestly i hate it won't buy one again that's for sure.
 

looney2ns

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This camera does my head in. You can walk right in front of it and it will just fly up or to the side and not even track. Then sometimes it will track perfectly. Honestly i hate it won't buy one again that's for sure.
You need to adjust the tracking size for your field of view in the cameras setup.
It's also important to have the cam picture setting setup correctly. Leaving them on auto/default rarely gives the proper performance it's capable of .
Wittaj Camera tuning Tips.
 

Mars Bar

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You need to adjust the tracking size for your field of view in the cameras setup.
It's also important to have the cam picture setting setup correctly. Leaving them on auto/default rarely gives the proper performance it's capable of .
Wittaj Camera tuning Tips.
Doesn't work. Ive tried all these settings etc. Honestly this camera will only work properly if you are in an area that is completely flat with no trees, obstacles etc and cars and people move at a snails pace.
 

wittaj

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Doesn't work. Ive tried all these settings etc. Honestly this camera will only work properly if you are in an area that is completely flat with no trees, obstacles etc and cars and people move at a snails pace.
Certainly some filed of views are problematic. This person bought a tracking PTZ with this field of view and wondered why it didn't work. Imagine how little it would see in the summer:

1690772826986.png

These PTZs can work around some things, so post some video and screenshots of your field of views and those of us that have been using these for awhile can probably provide some input.

But as @looney2ns pointed out, it is a matter of getting the brightness/contrast and target ratio settings correct, and these can change during different seasons for some FoVs.

I always knew that you shouldn't chase a bright picture - it looks nice and people migrate towards a brighter TV for example, but upon closer examination, most images need to be toned down in order to get all the details. You will be surprised how much changing a parameter like gamma could impact tracking. For example, if you have a pesky tree or something in the middle of the view during an autotrack, just by changing some image parameters you can get autotrack to pass it. Making the image a little darker at night actually helped with tracking someone across the street, which was opposite of what I thought you would think to do. So add some contrast to your image and see if it improves.

I have a yard lamp post that more times than not autotrack would get stuck on it as someone was walking and the autotrack would only go so far. Because my image has soo much contrast (bright white concrete a third, blacktop road a third, grass a third), knocking down the gamma made the lamp post not be so "trackable" lol, and along with that I turned of PFA and that gave it just enough time to retrack the person walking past the lamp post. Most see better results if the contrast number is 8-10 higher than the brightness number.

Ideally for an intrusion box or tripwires, you should have the initial field of view be such that the camera doesn't have to initially pan too much up/down or left/right to get the object in the center of the screen to start tracking. The closer the object is to the center of the image, the better the chance that it will track correctly. An entire Field of View intrusion box can cause it to latch on to the wrong item.

The reason it starts looking upward or left or right is usually because the intrusion box is too big so the camera identifies the object before it is in the center of the field of view and then sometimes something else matches the "algorithm signature" of the initial object and then starts trying to track something that isn't there. Adjusting the field of view and the locations of the IVS rules to be closer to the center can fix that.

Autotracking PTZs are great, but they have limitations like everything else. Installed in a wrong location or with fields of view that do not give it a chance will be problematic.
 

Mars Bar

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Certainly some filed of views are problematic. This person bought a tracking PTZ with this field of view and wondered why it didn't work. Imagine how little it would see in the summer:

View attachment 168945

These PTZs can work around some things, so post some video and screenshots of your field of views and those of us that have been using these for awhile can probably provide some input.

But as @looney2ns pointed out, it is a matter of getting the brightness/contrast and target ratio settings correct, and these can change during different seasons for some FoVs.

I always knew that you shouldn't chase a bright picture - it looks nice and people migrate towards a brighter TV for example, but upon closer examination, most images need to be toned down in order to get all the details. You will be surprised how much changing a parameter like gamma could impact tracking. For example, if you have a pesky tree or something in the middle of the view during an autotrack, just by changing some image parameters you can get autotrack to pass it. Making the image a little darker at night actually helped with tracking someone across the street, which was opposite of what I thought you would think to do. So add some contrast to your image and see if it improves.

I have a yard lamp post that more times than not autotrack would get stuck on it as someone was walking and the autotrack would only go so far. Because my image has soo much contrast (bright white concrete a third, blacktop road a third, grass a third), knocking down the gamma made the lamp post not be so "trackable" lol, and along with that I turned of PFA and that gave it just enough time to retrack the person walking past the lamp post. Most see better results if the contrast number is 8-10 higher than the brightness number.

Ideally for an intrusion box or tripwires, you should have the initial field of view be such that the camera doesn't have to initially pan too much up/down or left/right to get the object in the center of the screen to start tracking. The closer the object is to the center of the image, the better the chance that it will track correctly. An entire Field of View intrusion box can cause it to latch on to the wrong item.

The reason it starts looking upward or left or right is usually because the intrusion box is too big so the camera identifies the object before it is in the center of the field of view and then sometimes something else matches the "algorithm signature" of the initial object and then starts trying to track something that isn't there. Adjusting the field of view and the locations of the IVS rules to be closer to the center can fix that.

Autotracking PTZs are great, but they have limitations like everything else. Installed in a wrong location or with fields of view that do not give it a chance will be problematic.
 

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Mars Bar

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That's the FOV, if i move it right the tree stuffs the tracking up. In this position fast vehicles are a nightmare to track, but sometimes it tracks them great. Humans across the road are hard to track and ive even had someone walk straight towards the camera and it failed to track. Not bad all the time but I'd say 70% of the time tracking is poor.
 

wittaj

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Yeah that is a tough field of view to track vehicles. It needs to be a longer shot more front of the vehicle than side to stand a chance.

If I aim mine like that just past my driveway it won't keep up, but if I aim it down 300 feet or more then it will track it past my house most of the time.

That field of view should be able to track people though. Maybe the trees stop it some of the time.

But if that is your field of view with intrusion or tripwires, then yes I can see how it could have difficulty tracking people across the street.

I use spotter cams to point the PTZ to a specific spot to maximize the potential of tracking. So for your field of view, I would have a spotter cam that alerts the PTZ for someone across the street and then have the preset be where the person is more in the center of the frame than at the top.
 

Mars Bar

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Yeah that is a tough field of view to track vehicles. It needs to be a longer shot more front of the vehicle than side to stand a chance.

If I aim mine like that just past my driveway it won't keep up, but if I aim it down 300 feet or more then it will track it past my house most of the time.

That field of view should be able to track people though. Maybe the trees stop it some of the time.

But if that is your field of view with intrusion or tripwires, then yes I can see how it could have difficulty tracking people across the street.

I use spotter cams to point the PTZ to a specific spot to maximize the potential of tracking. So for your field of view, I would have a spotter cam that alerts the PTZ for someone across the street and then have the preset be where the person is more in the center of the frame than at the top.
Yeh ive got a spotter camera which is also crap ahahahaha, same issue it won't detect across the street 90% of the time. It's a variable camera, so i could zoom it in but ill lose the field of view.
 

wittaj

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Aha the classic example of trying to do too much with one camera lol
 
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