I want the best Dahua

Discussion in 'Dahua' started by RichardPryor, Feb 11, 2019.

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  1. RichardPryor

    RichardPryor Young grasshopper

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    I’m building a new house and I'm overwhelmed. Between electric, insulation, sound system, HVAC, wood stoves, etc I’m drinking every day starting around 9:30am. I’m hoping to catch a break and saving some time and headache when it comes to security cameras.

    Currently running an amcrest system and the quality sucks. My limited research led me to this forum and specifically to Dahua.

    I want outdoor cameras and I have a synology NAS that I was thinking of using to store footage (unless you guys suggest otherwise).

    What’s the best Dahua cameras for outdoor use? Is there a consensus?

    TYVM for your time.
     
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  2. tangent

    tangent IPCT Contributor

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    :welcome:

    Selecting the exact cameras during construction isn't as important as figuring out camera placement (camera model is relevant but you don't have to decide). Getting the ethernet cable properly installed in good locations is what matters during construction. Buying a camera or two to play with could be helpful, but you can achieve similar results with a selfie stick.

    It's always a good idea to run more cable than you think you need. That way you have a backup if one is damaged or can add more cameras in the future.

    Cameras generally don't mount nicely to standard junction boxes so you also need to plan for how the cameras will attach to the structure.
    Make sure several feet of extra wire are left at each camera location.

    The biggest mistake you can make is probably mounting the cameras too high. Lower locations are also much harder to wire after the fact.

    P.S. Dahua makes Amcrest. Some amcrest cameras are pretty good others not so much.

    Compared to other options Synology is a poor choice for recording your cameras.
     
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  3. RichardPryor

    RichardPryor Young grasshopper

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    Thx @tangent for your reply.

    So these days cameras are powered via Ethernet cables and not via the Siamese cables that have one for power and one for video?

    I mount my cameras to studs through siding. The cameras on my shop are holding strong this way. Then I run cable from behind by drilling a hole through the wall.

    Can you give me a few models to look into?

    My amcrest cameras suck, specially at night. I need great quality cameras.
     
  4. mat200

    mat200 IPCT Contributor

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    Welcome @RichardPryor

    Tangent's post is spot on.

    Use one of those Amcrest cameras to determine the better placement locations.

    Over cable. I recommend N+1 for each location. ( that is pull one more cat5e/6 cable than you had expected. )

    Remember try to place cameras 6-8 feet high for better chances to get an decent ID image.

    Lots of good notes in the cliff notes - look for the section on camera placement.

    Also see the following video
     
  5. RichardPryor

    RichardPryor Young grasshopper

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    TYVM @mat200 . I will watch that video now. I have a pretty good sense of where to put the cameras due to 3 years watching footage of current cameras and things I wished I would’ve done differently. I’d like to know which cable to run, though. Ethernet the way to go these days?
     
  6. tangent

    tangent IPCT Contributor

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    Yes ethernet is the way to go. Buy a couple of 1000' spools of solid copper Cat-6 cable from monoprice that are different colors.

    how far along is the house?

    Post some pictures / plans if you want advice on placement.
     
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  7. RichardPryor

    RichardPryor Young grasshopper

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    Walls are up, we are dried in. Installing siding currently. I’m doing the electric myself so currently pulling lots of wire. Same for speaker wires. I have around 3 weeks before I insulate, which i’ll Do myself as well, so I have some time to plan this out.

    Let me get some pictures on imgur and I’ll post back.

    Oh, one thing I wanted to mention is that shop is 100-150ft away from the house, but with a better angle to the driveway. I want to replace 5-7 cameras in the shop with better cameras and also wire them directly to the new house. I will use conduit for these cables. That way I can control all cameras from a single spot (new house). Will signal be ok with 250-300ft of run (after all the turns might get to 300ft)?
     
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  8. tangent

    tangent IPCT Contributor

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    Who's going to be doing the cabling? You or the builder?
     
  9. RichardPryor

    RichardPryor Young grasshopper

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    @tangent me. I’m doing everything.
     
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  10. RichardPryor

    RichardPryor Young grasshopper

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    [​IMG]

    Driveway left of the Subaru
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    I’ll find a few more.
     
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  11. RichardPryor

    RichardPryor Young grasshopper

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    Pics are throughout building process just to show different angles and what’s out there. We have 10 acres.

    [​IMG]
     
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  12. mat200

    mat200 IPCT Contributor

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    Looks like a really fun project!

    100M = 330 feet is the spec for a cat5e/cat6 ethernet run.

    Remember to keep some distance between the power lines and cat6 cable runs. ( thus you may want to run 2 conduits to the detached building )

    Go with a wider conduit between the 2 building to give yourself enough room for cable pulls.. so much easier.

    For cables running below the ground level, get burial grade cable - even if running in a conduit, as water probably will eventually find it's way into the conduit from our experiences.
     
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  13. mat200

    mat200 IPCT Contributor

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  14. tangent

    tangent IPCT Contributor

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    Fiber optic cable would be the best option between buildings. If burial rated shielded Cat-6 cable is run between buildings surge suppression is necessary.
    The other option is a pair of long range Ubiquiti wifi devices in a point to point configuration.

    You'd use a PoE switch in the shop and then link that back to the house.

    The location/type of light fixtures is very relevant to camera placement.

    Any plans for a gate/intercom/cameras to control access to the driveway? At a minimum somewhere I'd bury a vehicle sensing probe (how traffic lights detect cars) and maybe put in a photoelectric beam sensor.
     
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  15. usaf_pride

    usaf_pride Pulling my weight

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    You can always run 3/4" ENT (non-metallic tubing) to each location. For electrical it is typically blue or orange and flexible. Comes in big rolls. Then you can pull cables/replace/add cables later. A bit more upfront cost, but very future proof. If you have an attic, install and 2 empty 2" conduits between the basement/electric room and the attic. Non-wiring related, take some scrap 2x4 pieces and nail it along side where the blinds/valences will go so you have extra backing (same with any other rod/shelf).

    You can put the ENT everywhere you might ever think you want a data, security alarm/sensor, camera and just drywall over it (make sure you have a good map). That way you are future proofing your house.
     
  16. RichardPryor

    RichardPryor Young grasshopper

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    @tangent thanks for your valuable suggestions. I did, indeed want a gate/intercom and a camera. It’s a long driveway so it will be some money trenching and running conduit. I had been looking at solar gate openers. But I have a feeling you will recommend something different and better. Security is of the utmost importance.

    The goal is to be able to see who is coming in (or attempting to) via an alarm/sensor because I can’t see who is in my driveway from the house (long distance plus a hill).

    I’m willing to trench and power this area, though. Can you please recommend a very good intercom, gate opener, vehicle sensing probe and -hoot electric beam sensors? Also, can you tell me which fiber optic cable to buy to power my shop cameras and connect them to my house?

    Finally, stranded or solid for the cat6 through studs?

    Thanks again! This place is awesome.
     
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  17. VorlonFrog

    VorlonFrog Known around here

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    Regarding Cat6 cable: solid copper every time. Strictly avoid CCA (copper-clad aluminum) wiring. It's the black plague of networking.

    Regarding ENT tubing for low-voltage cables (sometimes called Smurf tube): Pull at least two Cat6 cables AND another 'pull string' to every location. The pull string allows you to pull another additional cable through the tubing at a later date.
     
    Last edited: Feb 11, 2019
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  18. tangent

    tangent IPCT Contributor

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    You should use solid copper Cat-6.

    Fiber optic cable won't deliver power, only data. I'm not the expert on this, but you're looking at multi mode fiber. If you attempt to run it in the same conduit as power you can't use an armored cable assembly that contains metal. There are places that you can buy a pre-terminated cable assembly or you can pay someone a couple hundred bucks to terminate the cable on site.

    How long is the driveway? How far is the end of the driveway from the shop? Is there a direct line of sight to the shop (without the hill)?
     
  19. Ckb3

    Ckb3 Getting the hang of it

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    I would highly recommend staying away from ENT or Smurf tube. Unless you have used and installed The Smurf tube and understand its flaws, know that doesn't have the rigidity needed to pull multiple cables through unless is secured every 24"-36" and even then, the flexibility of it puts you over the 360 degree bend rule bringing you quickly to the WTF did I use this moment. Use EMT or PVC if you are planning to use conduit and oversize it. It will be less headache down the road.
     
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  20. mat200

    mat200 IPCT Contributor

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    I concur, I really have come to dislike flexible conduit for cable pulls.
     
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