Latest Install dahua mini ptz 12x

... I think I understand what happened there.

I've seen plenty of wires left out and about remain functional for a good while, but UV really takes a toll on thin wire jackets that were never intended (and approved) for anything but indoor and concealed use (and jackets/sleeves have gotten thinner than they used to be). Hopefully, you have some slack left in the wires inside, disconnect, mount a vinyl surface plate over the hole, a surface box with a hole in the center, some pvc conduit going vertical up towards the soffit area, cover on the box, seal with silicone for an extra measure around the various joints, done. If anything just get the wires all bundled going up in one vertical-ish direction and conceal them with some bent white flashing, making a little metal chase to cover them up. Anything to get them out of the sun, and keep weather from that hole in the wall.

Really sweet camera!
 
Ah, my amateur self shines through. If I had been smart, I would have drilled that hole at soffit level and there wouldn't have been a problem.

It would not be fun to have to rerun those wires because a 3 foot section was ruined by sunlight. Obviously I don't care how it looks, and PVC conduit would require me to rerun the cables anyway, not to mention make adding new ones excessively difficult. How about I wrap the exposed portions in something like this:

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Not sure what I would do about the hole in the wall besides wrapping white electrical tape around it to keep rain from blowing in during rainshowers.
 
That black plastic cable organizer will crack and fail over time and could make things worse.
 
We will see. I ordered some white ones. Says in the description that it protects from sunlight but it never says UV anywhere so who knows if it will last longer than a year.

The key point is they will fit around the cables without having to re-run them, the white will blend better with my siding, and I can't see how it could possibly make things worse. Its not like it is going to act as a lens to focus UV even stronger on the cables inside.
 
For what it's worth, typically, outdoor rated Ethernet cable is black. Don't know if that's to prevent deterioration from sun exposure or just a fashion statement.
 
bp2008, you certainly need a junction box for the hole in the wall and one for the hikvision just to clean up the look. As far as the cables, uv light is not as bad as the makers of outdoor rated cable make it out to be. I've had a monoprice cable running exposed on the side of the house from the basement to the attic for over 10 years with zero issues (it runs alongside the gutter so its not noticeable to the naked eye... ... for a clean look though you may want to use flexible conduit..http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_n...keywords=flex+conduit&rh=i:aps,k:flex+conduit or just go with siding clips http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_s...ng+cable,aps,142&rh=i:aps,k:siding+cable+clip
 
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It is not all doom and gloom exposing wires to the outside world. Region and location vary too. A cable on the north side in the shade stands a better chance than the south side in the sun.

Flexible electrical conduit can work (not the semi-rigid interior ribbed kind), but its fittings are fairly expensive and in tricky situations flex often isn't flexible enough.

For sure, a hole up near the soffit would have saved some trouble - but you'd still have to enclose it for weather & critters.

With $25 or so from the hardware store I would think you should be able to fix it. Especially if you want to add more wires, a standard small receptacle or outdoor junction box and 1/2 or 3/4 pipe won't work. I'm still thinking: vinyl siding mounting plate, a small pvc outdoor watertight box with cover (I'm not sure what they're called exactly, but they have no holes and are not made for receptacles), fitting to put the pipe on top into box big pvc pipe up, couple pipe clamps, silicone. Done.

Obviously this would be roughing it (not code) but you could in the simplest form take a larger size access elbow (they have an elongated screw on plate to help pull/push wires) and stuff one end into the hole and add a piece of pipe going up with a couple clamps. Size is going to depend on the number of wires you ultimately want to run through there.
 
I appreciate the suggestions. What I really should do is pull the cables all out, seal up the hole, and repair the siding. See, that is the corner of my uninsulated garage. It is essentially just a skeleton with plywood on the ouside and vinyl siding on that. It is exposed to the rafters on the inside. So I can literally put a hole anywhere. Even down through the soffit from the top, where there is basically no chance of water getting in.

But it is where it is, and I'm too lazy to make it look nice just for my own enjoyment :shame:

So I'll just be wrapping the cables in that white flexible conduit-like stuff that I pictured above, and when it degrades and falls apart then at least it wasn't the cable jackets.

Ironically, I've run quite a few cables like that outdoors and they are all still in great condition after a couple years. The one time I used outdoor rated UV-resistant cable, it turned from black to green and formed cracks every inch or so after just one year, but in that case it was in direct sunlight most of the day every day-- which is why I used the supposedly good cable.
 
I have determined that the CPU in this 12x model is woefully underpowered. I have one installed and it seems the higher the frame rate and bit rate I use, the slower the response time gets for PTZ commands.

Seriously, at 1080p 30fps / 8 Mbps CBR, it often has response times like 600-1600 ms for PTZ commands. Compare this to the 30x that I bought from vector, where the response times are more like 8 ms.

After some tinkering I find the 12x runs much better at 720p, but I obviously prefer 1080 so the tradeoff for me is 1080p, 15fps, 4 Mbps VBR. Video isn't as nice as before but at least the PTZ controls don't lag and stick like they were doing.
 
I have been trying to get more information on the Hikvision DS-2DF7286 network PTZ dome camera like a price... But they just sold south Korea 750 of them and I guess they are in short supply. Now there would be a great install job. $$$.

The best price I can come up with is $2,300.00+ So I can stop thinking about that!!
 
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BP, you are correct. On every one of the PTZ's, the lower the bit rate, the quicker the PTZ controls react. You just need to try different rates and see what works best for you at the highest rate. I find
with the lower bit rate, the image pixelates greatly especially when moving it, and than it calms down once it's parked, but the trade off is it moves when you want it to move.
 
Vector18, on the newer PTZ like this 12X or the new 30X, does it allow privacy masking? I know this feature exists on my stationary Dahua cameras but not on the older Dahua PTZ. Also, if it has this feature, does it follow where the PTZ goes, meaning if you set the left half of the screen with a privacy mask, then pan somewhere else, is the privacy screen on the left side or is it gone because you are looking at a different area? If it does not have this feature, can you block certain areas from being panned/tilted to. For example, if you did not want someone to use your PTZ to pan to a bathroom window, can you block it?
 
The 12x has privacy masking configurable in the web interface, and it does in fact glue itself to a real-world location. It isn't 100% accurate, and it lags behind the camera when it moves, so you have to make it a bit oversized.

If the 30x has privacy masking, it is probably configured with the OSD menu. Not sure.
 
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