New RCA HSDB2A 3MP Doorbell IP Camera

[David L]

Thanks man, that seems to have worked. It was working for me before, but never since I upgraded the transformer, and never with my existing mechanical chime.

Great News...I will be sure to add this tip in the Doorbell 101. Added a TROUBLESHOOTING TIP Section.

 

[JonSnow]

I finally got my ezviz delivery from Christmas, i read that it got hot but man it gets hot.

Just started playing with it, was able to connect and even update the ezviz firmware using the hik app while in visitors mode.

Once on my wifi i disabled Internet for the doorbell and as expected the doorbell showed offline and no longer worked, however I was able to add the doorbell as a second device using IP so it does work completely offline including 2 way audio.

The only downside to this is i don't get a notification to answer the doordell, instead i need to open the hik app and click on the second device i added by IP.

I didn't get a chance to use the config tool, does that allow you to configure all firmware settings so an app is not required? I really would like to disable the chime sound.

 

[indieaz]

Your voltages look good. Have you tried changing Chime Type (Mechanical Chime, Electronic, Not Installed) in the App? After reading fredkruger #1976 message I am looking at our Doorbell different. I now question wiring/distances/resistance. fredjruger mention he moved his Doorbell next to his Chime in a test which worked.

Shortly after typing this reply i also tried changing between mechanical and electronic chime but I didn't notice any change. I did not try testing the not connected option, is this safe to try without resistor installed? Don't want to fry doorbell.

 

[David L]

Sorry I don't have access to take more pics of the power kit at the moment.
But I did take some notes:
Components:
LM2903 dual differential comparitor
LCB710 solid state relay
L830CP unknown
851/MB65 diode rectifier
1.5a fuse I think

I did eventually wire up an ac relay DPDT so I could also wire into alarm/NVR and mechanical chime.

As far as I could work out the power kit just shorts it's two wires allowing the current to bypass your Doorbell solenoid or electronic chime. If it didn't do this, then the solenoid would either activate, make a buzzing noise or burn out.
The DB1 just shorts it's contacts when its button is pressed. The power kit somehow detects this and opens its connection, allowing all the current to go to the mechanical chime solenoid or electronic chime.
When the DB1 button is pressed it's terminals short together, at this point it's self powered from it's rechargable battery and your transformer is then only powering your chime. This is why I can't understand why people need to use a 30va transformer. Surely you only need a transformer big enough for your chime (as long is it's more higher than what the DB1 uses. 5w according to spec)

In the app I need to set as electronic chime because when set to mechanical chime, it activates to quickly to open my relay.
As far as I can see the only difference between between mechanical chime and electronic chime is that electronic chime can be set for 2-10secs and mechanical chime has a fixed time of less than 0.5secs

If the resistance of the doorbell wire is too high then the power kit doesn't switch.
When mine didn't work, I connected the DB1 on a short bit of wire close to the chime and it worked ok
Testing with some 5ohm resistors also confirmed that your need less than 5ohms or so for it to work. Upping the voltage from 12 to 16v overcame this resistance for me.
Although the doorbell worked on 12v, the power kit did not open (with my longer wire) it's circuit therefore my chime or relay didn't work.

Hope this helps someone....

Phenomenal Post. I am still trying to absorb it all. Resistance, resistance, resistance Actually Impedance too...I am guessing the reason for the increase (va) on the transformers, for some, is the power kit is not fully regulating the power as it should, maybe due to wiring (resistance/impedance/distance/gauge)? I am sure there are several other factors too. We know each transformer rarely matches it's label in terms of voltage and of course wattage/load would be affected. Add that to the list. We have witnessed countless users/owners here that fix a multitude of issues/problems by changing their trans. out and increasing their va. Not just here, many other Forums/Reviews/Sites with Nest and Ring (both with their own power kits). Amazon has a long list of available transformers with Ring/Nest attached to their selling titles. Oh yeah forgot the different Chimes out there

For us, our Doorbell worked with the existing 16v 10va transformer in our 15 year old house (ran for a few months with that trans.). I changed it out though, due to my theory, since I planned to run 2 or more continuous streams, thinking possible more power consumption by it's CPU or whatever you call it's brain I am presently only running one 24/7 stream. Anyway, for me both worked fine. Looking at my wiring distances, estimate from my Doorbell to the transformer in the attic (mounted on a rafter to our attic light) is about 30-40 feet max. Our Mechanical Chime is almost directly below in a middle hallway in our house about 10 feet high (we have 10 foot ceilings in most of our house) so add 20-30 feet max wiring for that run. Both the Doorbell and Chime wiring meet at the Transformer (which is done right in my opinion) that makes it easy to complete the circuit/loop (Even included this type of wiring in the Diagram I just completed)

So I am fully with you, does not make sense why we are having to change out our trans. if the Doorbell/Power Kit is working properly/correctly. I just think every install is totally different, different brand of transformers (voltages/load), different chimes (types/brands), different wiring (many factors here), etc.

Thank you very much for your contribution(s) here. You are our Power Kit Guy

 

[David L]

Shortly after typing this reply i also tried changing between mechanical and electronic chime but I didn't notice any change. I did not try testing the not connected option, is this safe to try without resistor installed? Don't want to fry doorbell.

Good point, no maybe skip that option. How hard would it be for you to test your Doorbell with a short wire at your chime, like fredkruger did? I know it would require removing the installed Doorbell but it would help eliminate any possible wiring issues.

 

[David L]

I finally got my ezviz delivery from Christmas, i read that it got hot but man it gets hot.

Just started playing with it, was able to connect and even update the ezviz firmware using the hik app while in visitors mode.

Once on my wifi i disabled Internet for the doorbell and as expected the doorbell showed offline and no longer worked, however I was able to add the doorbell as a second device using IP so it does work completely offline including 2 way audio.

The only downside to this is i don't get a notification to answer the doordell, instead i need to open the hik app and click on the second device i added by IP.

I didn't get a chance to use the config tool, does that allow you to configure all firmware settings so an app is not required? I really would like to disable the chime sound.

I got mine delivered today too If you have the latest firmware 191211 then you should see the option in the EZVIZ App to turn Off Outdoor Chime Sound.
Push notifications come from their cloud, which you have to be connected to the Internet, of course, to get them. There are ways around this though. Several here use Blue Iris for motion detection and they have stated being able to send notifications, but this is where I can't help. I will hopefully have this info collected one day and included in the 101. I would say search for the keyword notification in this thread to help you find a solution.

Batch Config. Tool will allow to change non-grayed out options. I would just caution you in the password or network sections. Some have changed passwords to the point of no return. And of course you risk network connection loss in the network section. Go slow in your changes

 

[xaudiblex]

Can someone confirm whether these doorbell cams work with Google Wifi?

I can confirm it works. I have 3 of them plus an onhub.

 

[plomaris]

I can confirm it works. I have 3 of them plus an onhub.

Great! Thanks for the confirmation.

 

[Jack007]

Sorry I don't have access to take more pics of the power kit at the moment.
But I did take some notes:
Components:
LM2903 dual differential comparitor
LCB710 solid state relay
L830CP unknown
851/MB65 diode rectifier
1.5a fuse I think

I did eventually wire up an ac relay DPDT so I could also wire into alarm/NVR and mechanical chime.

As far as I could work out the power kit just shorts it's two wires allowing the current to bypass your Doorbell solenoid or electronic chime. If it didn't do this, then the solenoid would either activate, make a buzzing noise or burn out.
The DB1 just shorts it's contacts when its button is pressed. The power kit somehow detects this and opens its connection, allowing all the current to go to the mechanical chime solenoid or electronic chime.
When the DB1 button is pressed it's terminals short together, at this point it's self powered from it's rechargable battery and your transformer is then only powering your chime. This is why I can't understand why people need to use a 30va transformer. Surely you only need a transformer big enough for your chime (as long is it's more higher than what the DB1 uses. 5w according to spec)

In the app I need to set as electronic chime because when set to mechanical chime, it activates to quickly to open my relay.
As far as I can see the only difference between between mechanical chime and electronic chime is that electronic chime can be set for 2-10secs and mechanical chime has a fixed time of less than 0.5secs

If the resistance of the doorbell wire is too high then the power kit doesn't switch.
When mine didn't work, I connected the DB1 on a short bit of wire close to the chime and it worked ok
Testing with some 5ohm resistors also confirmed that your need less than 5ohms or so for it to work. Upping the voltage from 12 to 16v overcame this resistance for me.
Although the doorbell worked on 12v, the power kit did not open (with my longer wire) it's circuit therefore my chime or relay didn't work.

Hope this helps someone....

Great information.
I guess the IC dubbed DB1 is the 851/MB65 diode rectifier?
Where is the L830CP located; how does it look like?

I did my measurements with the powerkit in series with the DB1 with nothing attached to it, so not loaded. I measured over the powerkit. As it looks like i will get my relay tomorrow and will hook this up in parallel to the powerkit. This is probably what you also did.

Looking at my measurements the powerkit does more than only "transfer" the voltage to a solenoid. It looks as if it makes its own AC (from the DC from the rectifier). But that just my theory.

I agree that the only difference between the electronic and mechanical chime setting is that you can play with the time duration when set to electronic. Thanks for confirming that the mechanical chime setting probably is to short to activate reliable a relay.

 

[David L]

Happy 100 Page Day Wow

 

[JonSnow]

I got mine delivered today too If you have the latest firmware 191211 then you should see the option in the EZVIZ App to turn Off Outdoor Chime Sound.
Push notifications come from their cloud, which you have to be connected to the Internet, of course, to get them. There are ways around this though. Several here use Blue Iris for motion detection and they have stated being able to send notifications, but this is where I can't help. I will hopefully have this info collected one day and included in the 101. I would say search for the keyword notification in this thread to help you find a solution.

Batch Config. Tool will allow to change non-grayed out options. I would just caution you in the password or network sections. Some have changed passwords to the point of no return. And of course you risk network connection loss in the network section. Go slow in your changes

Was hoping to avoid using the ezviz app, although it works offline allot of the features are not available until i create an account.

 

[David L]

Was hoping to avoid using the ezviz app, although it works offline allot of the features are not available until i create an account.

So here is what I am presently doing. I have a VPN server setup on my main Asus WAN Connected Router. I use OpenVPN to connect to it via my phone before I launch EZVIZ App. So at least my traffic is encrypted going back in my network to the DB. I will be changing my Asus out with a PFSense Router soon and separate my IoT on it's own VLAN which will increase security. Also fyi, I did a test to see if the Doorbell works without an Internet connection and it does not need one, as you found out. My RTSP stream continued to record via Blue Iris locally with no problems as it would to a NVR or NAS.
Hope this helps.

 

[fredkruger]

Great information.
I guess the IC dubbed DB1 is the 851/MB65 diode rectifier?
Where is the L830CP located; how does it look like?

I did my measurements with the powerkit in series with the DB1 with nothing attached to it, so not loaded. I measured over the powerkit. As it looks like i will get my relay tomorrow and will hook this up in parallel to the powerkit. This is probably what you also did.

Looking at my measurements the powerkit does more than only "transfer" the voltage to a solenoid. It looks as if it makes its own AC (from the DC from the rectifier). But that just my theory.

I agree that the only difference between the electronic and mechanical chime setting is that you can play with the time duration when set to electronic. Thanks for confirming that the mechanical chime setting probably is to short to activate reliable a relay.

Yes DB1 = 851/MB65 diode rectifier
L830CP I think î was the one on the bottom left of pic, black colour about the same size as side rectifier, but only 2 connections.
My theory was that the bridge rectifier creates DC from AC to power the IC circuits.
I didn't think power kit is used if you have no relay or chime connected..
Until the DB1 button is pressed the power kit is like a closed switch connected across the chime. Otherwise the chime/relay may be activated, make noise or burn out due to the current flowing through it which powers the DB1. (If I remove my power kit, my relay makes some unhealthy noise)
When the DB1 button is pressed the power kit somehow senses this and it is like a switch opening, allowing the current to flow though the chime, due to the DB1 closing it's contacts like an old Doorbell switch.
Disconnecting the DB1 and shorting the wires also activates the power kit/chime just as a test.
It would be nice to know exactly how the power kit senses/works though. Might be useful to diagnose problems.
I guess others like nest and ring are similar.

 

[David L]

Yes DB1 = 851/MB65 diode rectifier
L830CP I think î was the one on the bottom left of pic, black colour about the same size as side rectifier, but only 2 connections.
My theory was that the bridge rectifier creates DC from AC to power the IC circuits.
I didn't think power kit is used if you have no relay or chime connected..
Until the DB1 button is pressed the power kit is like a closed switch connected across the chime. Otherwise the chime/relay may be activated, make noise or burn out due to the current flowing through it which powers the DB1. (If I remove my power kit, my relay makes some unhealthy noise)
When the DB1 button is pressed the power kit somehow senses this and it is like a switch opening, allowing the current to flow though the chime, due to the DB1 closing it's contacts like an old Doorbell switch.
Disconnecting the DB1 and shorting the wires also activates the power kit/chime just as a test.
It would be nice to know exactly how the power kit senses/works though. Might be useful to diagnose problems.
I guess others like nest and ring are similar.

Looks like Ring has a version 2 Power Kit, so we are not the only one dealing with these issues.

How to Bypass your Internal Doorbell with the Pro Power Kit V2 (for Ring Video Doorbell Pro)

If you’ve verified that your doorbell transformer supplies 16 volts AC at ~30 VA, but your Ring Doorbell is not functioning correctly, you may need to bypass your internal doorbell. Symptoms of ins...

support.ring.com

Look how the Ring shows their old power kit connected:

 

[JonSnow]

So here is what I am presently doing. I have a VPN server setup on my main Asus WAN Connected Router. I use OpenVPN to connect to it via my phone before I launch EZVIZ App. So at least my traffic is encrypted going back in my network to the DB. I will be changing my Asus out with a PFSense Router soon and separate my IoT on it's own VLAN which will increase security. Also fyi, I did a test to see if the Doorbell works without an Internet connection and it does not need one, as you found out. My RTSP stream continued to record via Blue Iris locally with no problems as it would to a NVR or NAS.
Hope this helps.

Any reason why your using the ezviz firmware? The laview or nelly seems like the best one do to onvif support.

Does the PIR sensor work with BI and ONVIC FW?

 

[David L]

Any reason why your using the ezviz firmware? The laview or nelly seems like the best one do to onvif support.

Does the PIR sensor work with BI and ONVIC FW?

Presently I am actually running Nelly's 190625 firmware on my LaView DB. Just testing Google/Alexa. So far no Google, but did get DB to show as a device on Amazon Alexa App.



Sorry, I don't have an answer for PIR working in Blue Iris, I have mine setup to record 24/7, though I did setup a second camera (Same DB) and have been playing with Blue Iris's Motion Sensor settings.

 

[David L]

So I got started on my LaView DB Alexa test. Good news, after installing Amazon Alexa App on my phone the Doorbell as a device, I already had LaView Skill linked on Amazon. I also see my Fire Tablet, but it is showing offline. I have a few factors at play here, I have a VPN service on my phone, no problem, which I can turn off. Also have one on my tablet that I use, NoRoot Firewall, which I need to play with too, its not really a true VPN, it is a great App blocker though. Will let you know how it goes. Probably need to change the name of the Db in the Alexa App so I can address "Alexa, show the Doorbell or Front Door" easier.

View attachment 53568

I forgot to mention that while doing the above Alexa test I had (still have) Nelly's firmware 190625 installed on my LaView DB while running EZVIZ App. Nelly's claim NO Alexa Support nor on their site or on their see Amazon Description. Also there is no Nelly's Amazon Alexa Skill that I could find.

Amazon.com : Nelly's Security 3MP WiFi Video Doorbell Camera W/ 2 Way Audio, Onvif Compliant, PIR Motion Sensor, Night Vision, 16GB SD Card Pre-Installed, Includes 3 Face Plates : Camera & Photo

Amazon.com : Nelly's Security 3MP WiFi Video Doorbell Camera W/ 2 Way Audio, Onvif Compliant, PIR Motion Sensor, Night Vision, 16GB SD Card Pre-Installed, Includes 3 Face Plates : Camera & Photo

www.amazon.com

What we know so far:
EZVIZ DB1 has Google and Alexa Support
LaView ONE Halo has Alexa Support

Hikvision DS-HD1 (Unknown)
Nelly's (No Support)
LTS (Unknown)
RCA (Has an Alexa Skill but so far no one has got it to work)

RCA Security

RCA Security

www.amazon.com

We have found this Support seems to be only Hardware Dependent not Firmware or App (Cloud) dependent.

 

[David L]

Thanks for the verification test so no need to proceed forward unless you still wanted your fire tablet to show the doorbell. That proves that Ezviz/Hikvision cloud is blocking my RCA HSDB2 doorbell via serial number and probably also Nelly's variant(unless they are planning to market it as Alexa/Google capable). Already contacted RCA tech support and they basically said I need to buy other Hikvision variants that market themselves as Amazon Alexa capable.

So are you after Alexa support or Google? I know that stinks that some brands are not supporting certain things. I could see maybe not having ONVIF so they could sell their NVRs. But what is wild is LaView, mainly sells NVR/Camera combos and was the first to enable ONVIF support on our Hikvision DBs through firmware. Does not make sense to me. Also, I would think all brands would want to jump on Alexa/Google support. When it comes to buying Smart Device (IoT) it is top on most peoples list.
I have watched the Car Industry change drastically to support Android/iOS, had one Salesman tell me the younger generation don't buy cars for brand/quality/even price etc., they buy based on the Infotainment system and driver assist systems. Ford/Chevy is no longer making sedans (Crazy), now only SUVs, of course with back seat displays for the little ones...Today's pacifiers

Reason I asked about Alexa support is I may have my LaView ONE Halo for sale, once I get my EZVIZ I ordered received/setup. We mainly have Google Assistant in house so I jumped on the EZVIZ to do what I just stated above Oh, what was I thinking, haha Though, I have not approached family/friends yet, nor told my wife my buy/sell plans Worse case I put it on my backdoor.

So far No Go on the Fire tablet, but it does not seem to have anything to do with our Doorbells. The Fire Tablet "Offline" status in the Amazon Alexa App seems to be a common issue with these tablets and has to do with Amazon updates from what I have found so far.

 

[David L]

Testing next 2 messages for DOORBELL101 move.

 

[David L]

Moving DOORBELL101 to page 101

Once fully moved, I will have a link on page 69 message #1376 pointing to DOORBELL101's new home.

I just want to make it easier for anyone, including me , to be able to point someone to the DOORBELL101.