New RCA HSDB2A 3MP Doorbell IP Camera

[cba123]

Brand new Hikvision HS-HD1, 30VA transformer
Latest Hikvision firmware
Configured using only batch config tool, never allowed to connect to internet or to an app.
Wifi 2.4 GHz Router about 12' away.
QNAP QVR Pro connecting to the camera via ONVIF at 3MP / 10 fps, recording all the time.
QVR has this camera and another camera connected (also via ONVIF and the same wifi SSID, different vendor)

So about every 3 mins, the camera stops streaming for about 15 seconds. It doesn't appear that the connection is lost, it just stops sending.
The other camera records constantly, also over the same wifi SSID/band, and there do not appear any drops in the wifi net overall.
So ran continuous pings to the device to see if the connection itself dropped, and lo and behold, not only did the connection not drop, but also the video never stopped recording.

It appears that some sort of "keep alive" might be needed to keep an ONVIF stream going?

Has anyone else run into this behavior and is there any simpler workaround?

Again, note that the camera has not been allowed to phone home or connect to any app but the BCT and an ONVIF connection, so that might be a bit different then most (and BTW, it's hammering my firewall trying to connect to litedev.ezvizlife.com:8666 ... denied...)

OK, looks like the issue was the ICMP firewall issue discussed on the 101 page. Enabled a rule for that and the disconnects appear to have stopped immediately.

I never noticed this item in the 101 as the symptoms was not included with the tip in the 101. I was troubleshooting the exact same issue with my DB1 for the past month. While the DB1 never actually disconnected from the wifi, it would restart the RTSP stream every 3 minutes, which appears as a signal loss / disconnect in BI and when using VLC. As Alex pointed out recently to another user, there is semantics in the usage of the word as "disconnect" as it implies it disconnected from the network to him (while others simply indicated the symptom which was that BI/VLC stops receiving the stream and would try to reconnect to the camera after a few seconds implying it disconnected from the camera, not the network).

Switching my access point from EAP120 to a EAP245 and switching band from 2Ghz to 5Ghz didn't solve it. I already had my firewall (an EdgeRouter) open to allow the DB1 unrestricted access to the internet.

Yesterday, while troubleshooting an NTP issue between my newly install GS324T Managed Pro switch and my EdgeRouter, I enabled logging on the local interface firewall since the traffic between the switch and the router would never leave the VLAN to find the NTP packets, I found the DB1 ICMP packets getting sent to the local interface on its VLAN and were getting blocked as I only allowed NTP and DNS to all devices on the local interface, and SSH and GUI port access only to "admin" devices. I added allowing ICMP packets to the local interface for just the DB1 VLAN, and the DB1 has now been running smoothly without the constant 3 minute restarts of the RTSP stream.

While I had allowed unrestricted access to the internet, and unrestricted access to NTP and DNS on the local interface (gateway router), I didn't allow ICMP pings on the local interface.

Like you said Ronin, you need to ensure that the DB1 can ping its gateway IP address, otherwise, the DB will stop and restart the RTSP stream every 3 minutes, while not disconnecting from the network itself.

Now, I just need to review my DB1 firewall logs for the past month to isolate all the IP addresses and ports it communicates with on the internet so that I can lock down the DB1 firewall policy. The list of ports that cool77 mentioned did not work for me at the beginning which is why I have allowed unrestricted internet access.

@David, can you revise the 101.
In your Firewall settings, allow ICMP from the Doorbell to your router, otherwise you will lose the RTSP stream every 3 minutes in BI, VLC, etc. the doorbell will disconnect/reconnect the WiFi

Remove the disconnect/reconnect the Wifi as that never showed up in my AP logs and the normal cloud apps did not appear to lose its streaming connection either.

It's unfortunate the 101 wiki is not more clear and you spent extra time troubleshooting like I did.

I already asked David to revise the 101 so that the solution to the 3 minute loss of signal issue can be found easier. The wiki only says blocking icmp causes the wifi to disconnect, which as you and I found, wifi never disconnects, so you may have assumed that is not the issue to your problem and then end up spending more time troubleshooting. But, neither Alex nor David thought the wiki needed fixing.

 

[alexdelprete]

It's unfortunate the 101 wiki is not more clear and you spent extra time troubleshooting like I did.

I already asked David to revise the 101 so that the solution to the 3 minute loss of signal issue can be found easier. The wiki only says blocking icmp causes the wifi to disconnect, which as you and I found, wifi never disconnects, so you may have assumed that is not the issue to your problem and then end up spending more time troubleshooting. But, neither Alex nor David thought the wiki needed fixing.

When we wrote about the ICMP fix, the issue was a NETWORK DISCONNECTION, as user @ronin1 reported: Batch config only shows an Exception error - Network Disconnection in the logs

Did you check your router logs and batch config's event log to see if a network disconnection happened? If it didn't, probably there has been some modification in the firmware of the camera when the "isolated" condition happens due to ICMP being blocked. In any case, from my network/system experience, I advise all people that use firewalls for LAN traffic, to properly configure their rules, ICMP on LAN should ALWAYS been allowed, it's a BASIC error not doing so. But it's out of the scope of this thread having to explain the basics of networking. You want the illusion of maximum security using firewalls also in your home LAN environment? Well, pay close attention to what you do, and check the basics before complaining about the devices and the free support you are receiving here from everybody.

You should read the entire 101 when you have a problem and are looking for a solution, it has been maintained with lot of effort by @David L to avoid having to read the thousands of posts in the thread. If you don't have the time or patience to at least analyze carefully 101, at least don't complain for the hard work that David put into this. Remember that we're not being paid by anybody, it's a hobby, we do it for passion and to help others solve issues more easily, learning from the experience of the entire community of users here.

In any case, it's my fault the 101 is not intelligible enough, David asked me to revise it months ago, but I had severe personal problems that got my mind elsewhere. So please don't blame David for anything, he's done an outstanding job. If there's something to improve and it didn't, it's entirely my fault. As soon as I'll come out of the messy situation, and my brain can concentrate on that task, I will revise the entire document.

Having said that, I think we don't deserve to be accused of anything for the reasons I described above.

 

[nepats197]

I installed the new Amcrest Floodlight cam which uses a wireless hotspot just like this doorbell to connect to my Wifi. Long story short, while setting up the floodlight and for whatever reason the Ezviz DB1 reset - I needed to press the reset button for 10 seconds and reconnect as if it were new.

It's running now and I'm able to see video, only problem is I believe it switched chime settings from mechanical to digital as my mechanical chime no longer works. I need to switch it back to mechanical. How can this be done as I don't see a setting for it? Do I need to uninstall/ reinstall the EZVIZ app for it to re-prompt this question?

Edit: Nevermind, followed this thread to drop/ re-add & re initialize the DB1. EZVIZ needs to update the app to allow chime changes without dropping/ re-adding.

 

[KC8DKT]

First of all I don’t understand what your ten year old son has to do with this discussion.

Did you read the link to “introduction to Linear voltage regulator” I added?. Did you understand this? You can apply DCvoltage to this DB, so there is no transformer at the input, but probably a rectifier and a linear voltage controller.. DC current wil also easily pass the rectifier. This is not possible with a transformer. Comparing it to a charging supply for a phone does not make sense,because there you are dealing with much higher voltages, where a transformer makes more sense, also because of the available volume.
Well thats all what I want to say about it at the moment. I still hope someone will do some basic measurements measuring the input current as function of the input voltage as well as the temperatures.

For anyone who cares more about the facts then just trying to prove they are right or know more then anyone else here is what we now KNOW AS FACT

The top screw on the back where you input the AC power from the transformer in your house goes directly to a Diode Package / rectifier and lets call that Pin1.
The bottom screw on the back for the AC power input goes to a "CQ T 1.5A Fuse" then lets call it Pin2 on the same Diode / rectifier package.

Pins 3 and 4 on the diode package are marked with a - and +

Them 2 go to a 1841 chip that lists as a "DC/DC converter" I could not find any more info in terms of min/max input or its output.

I was going to do some temp to voltage tests with it apart but the temps jumped to 113c in less then 5sec on 12vac with out the heatsink being on it so I turned it off. The DC/DC converter output was reading 3.42v when I turned it off.

The back of this thing LOOKs and FEELs like its just plastic but its NOT. It has a THICK coper or brass chunk of metal inside of it acting as a heat sink with transfer pads contacting the ICs.

IT HAS A 3.7V LI-ION 220MAH, 0.814Wh BATT inside with a heating element stuck on top of it. WTF?? Li-Ions do not like the heat, they tend to swell up if you just leave them in your car so why would it have heater on it?!?!?!?

the input side of the 1841 has a 50v 220uf cap connected to its inputs.
The heater seems to be connected to this input side as well before the DC/DC converter. I am only about 80% sure on this, the 1841 is on the opposite side of the pcb and it was hard tracking the traces.

This is the RCA DB but it does have a Hik branded controller inside. HK-2016-6B OR HK-2016-68 (is that an 8 or a B) The heating pads smudged off some of the txt on most of the chips, had a hard time reading them.

I dropped a screw and can not find it.
I think my warranty has just be voided big time.
At some point this DB is going to stop working and need a new internal batt.
Its going to be ALOT of fun getting that heater thing off the dead batt. when we have to replace it.
The batt was easy to find on amazon and its cheap ( less then <$15 or a slightly higher Mah for <$35 )
Done thanking GOD every thing worked after putting it back together and did not burn it up and keeping fingers crossed that missing scew does not turn into a problem.

Now that we KNOW what is inside does the INPUT voltage have anything to do with how hot the DB gets? Does the temps go UP with higher volts, or does the temps go DOWN with higher volts?

Please show your work and lets keep the kids out of it...

 

[KC8DKT]

I installed the new Amcrest Floodlight cam which uses a wireless hotspot just like this doorbell to connect to my Wifi. Long story short, while setting up the floodlight and for whatever reason the Ezviz DB1 reset - I needed to press the reset button for 10 seconds and reconnect as if it were new.

It's running now and I'm able to see video, only problem is I believe it switched chime settings from mechanical to digital as my mechanical chime no longer works. I need to switch it back to mechanical. How can this be done as I don't see a setting for it? Do I need to uninstall/ reinstall the EZVIZ app for it to re-prompt this question?

Edit: Nevermind, followed this thread to drop/ re-add & re initialize the DB1. EZVIZ needs to update the app to allow chime changes without dropping/ re-adding.

The RCA app does have this option when you click on the gear for the settings. I thought the ezviz app did as well so please check again. If you still do not find it just REMOVE the device from the app then add it back. It will still be on your wifi, but it will ask you to do the user setup options again and let you do the chime setting.

If you still have a problem let us know, I will through the ezviz app back on and see if I can find it or some one with it already installed will help ya.

 

[KC8DKT]

The RCA app does have this option when you click on the gear for the settings. I thought the ezviz app did as well so please check again. If you still do not find it just REMOVE the device from the app then add it back. It will still be on your wifi, but it will ask you to do the user setup options again and let you do the chime setting.

If you still have a problem let us know, I will through the ezviz app back on and see if I can find it or some one with it already installed will help ya.

Wow, its NOT an option in the ezviz app, I had to REMOVE the device then ADD it again to get to that option. Click on the SAVE CODE before you remove if you do not wish to type in the PW/6 Dig Code.

 

[alexdelprete]

I installed the new Amcrest Floodlight cam which uses a wireless hotspot just like this doorbell to connect to my Wifi. Long story short, while setting up the floodlight and for whatever reason the Ezviz DB1 reset - I needed to press the reset button for 10 seconds and reconnect as if it were new.

It's running now and I'm able to see video, only problem is I believe it switched chime settings from mechanical to digital as my mechanical chime no longer works. I need to switch it back to mechanical. How can this be done as I don't see a setting for it? Do I need to uninstall/ reinstall the EZVIZ app for it to re-prompt this question?

Edit: Nevermind, followed this thread to drop/ re-add & re initialize the DB1. EZVIZ needs to update the app to allow chime changes without dropping/ re-adding.

You can also install Guarding Vision mobile app that has the chime option always available. EZVIZ has really done a stupid thing allowing to configure the chime only on first configuration of the camera.

 

[dubious]

HIKVISION DOORBELL101
HIKVISION (DS-HD1), RCA (HSDB2A), EZVIZ (DB1), LAVIEW (LV-PDB1630-U), NELLY'S (NSC-DB2), LTS (LTH-7132-WIFI)​

Just wanted to share some news on this thread about the most recent update to Blue Iris, version 5.3.2.11. It is now possible to get the doorbell's camera stream to display on an Echo Show, with only Blue Iris and no additional software installed locally. I have the doorbell from Nelly's, running the 200321 (2020-03-31) firmware, but the specific brand or firmware shouldn't matter, as long as Blue Iris can view the RTSP stream from the doorbell.

All you need to do is add the Monocle skill to your Echo Show. Then setup your camera feed to point to Blue Iris's web server, using the Monocle web portal. These are the settings that worked for me, but obviously change your IP address and port number to match your Blue Iris installation:

I saw elsewhere on this forum that others had some success using the locally installed Monocle gateway and the @proxy-tcp tag, but none of that is required anymore. Just make sure you format the stream URL correctly, as other posts have that incorrect. There should be a ? separating the the name of the camera and the resolution settings.

There is a bit of delay when loading the stream on the Echo Show. But it doesn't seem to be quite as bad as the lag seen with the EZVIZ or LAVIEW skills. And now you can use any app to manage your doorbell without worrying about Alexa compatibility.

All of this is thanks to Ken Pletzer of Blue Iris, going the extra mile to make this happen.

 

[Emiks5]

For anyone who cares more about the facts then just trying to prove they are right or know more then anyone else here is what we now KNOW AS FACT

The top screw on the back where you input the AC power from the transformer in your house goes directly to a Diode Package / rectifier and lets call that Pin1.
The bottom screw on the back for the AC power input goes to a "CQ T 1.5A Fuse" then lets call it Pin2 on the same Diode / rectifier package.

Pins 3 and 4 on the diode package are marked with a - and +

Them 2 go to a 1841 chip that lists as a "DC/DC converter" I could not find any more info in terms of min/max input or its output.

I was going to do some temp to voltage tests with it apart but the temps jumped to 113c in less then 5sec on 12vac with out the heatsink being on it so I turned it off. The DC/DC converter output was reading 3.42v when I turned it off.

The back of this thing LOOKs and FEELs like its just plastic but its NOT. It has a THICK coper or brass chunk of metal inside of it acting as a heat sink with transfer pads contacting the ICs.

IT HAS A 3.7V LI-ION 220MAH, 0.814Wh BATT inside with a heating element stuck on top of it. WTF?? Li-Ions do not like the heat, they tend to swell up if you just leave them in your car so why would it have heater on it?!?!?!?

the input side of the 1841 has a 50v 220uf cap connected to its inputs.
The heater seems to be connected to this input side as well before the DC/DC converter. I am only about 80% sure on this, the 1841 is on the opposite side of the pcb and it was hard tracking the traces.

This is the RCA DB but it does have a Hik branded controller inside. HK-2016-6B OR HK-2016-68 (is that an 8 or a B) The heating pads smudged off some of the txt on most of the chips, had a hard time reading them.

I dropped a screw and can not find it.
I think my warranty has just be voided big time.
At some point this DB is going to stop working and need a new internal batt.
Its going to be ALOT of fun getting that heater thing off the dead batt. when we have to replace it.
The batt was easy to find on amazon and its cheap ( less then <$15 or a slightly higher Mah for <$35 )
Done thanking GOD every thing worked after putting it back together and did not burn it up and keeping fingers crossed that missing scew does not turn into a problem.

Now that we KNOW what is inside does the INPUT voltage have anything to do with how hot the DB gets? Does the temps go UP with higher volts, or does the temps go DOWN with higher volts?

Please show your work and lets keep the kids out of it...

Wow. Great job. Thanks

 

[servicekrunk]

Inside the Ezviz DB1 power kit for anyone interested. It's installed across the solenoid wires when using a mechanical chime. For me the chime solenoid buzzed if it's not connected. It seems to allow some of the current to bypass the solenoid to stop it buzzing(and maybe burning out). Unfortunately for me it allows too much current to bypass the chime solenoid, preventing it from working. I wired a 5.6ohm resistor in series with the power kit to stop it taking too much current away form the chime solenoid. Seems to be working ok now.
Does anyone understand how the power kit works from the pictures? I really thought it would just contain resistors.
I'm using a 16v 10va transformer and Friedland D454 doorbell.
I know there are a lot of people on here saying to use a 30va transformer on here, but the DB1 only uses 200/300mA(day/night with IR) and the mechanical chime will only be on for about 1 second when the DB1 is pressed...

Is there a way to test if the power kit is still functional? All the sudden my mechanical chime stopped working and I even tried a new one. Also I have a 24v 40va transformer, is that too much?

 

[pete_c]

You could utilize a VOM to check the power kit. It is a resistor. Unlikely that it would cease to function. The VOM would tell you if it was open or shorted.

Have someone stand next to your mechanical chime when you ring the doorbell. Too much voltage or not enough will make it buzz or do a dull gong rather than a chime. If you take the cover off you will see the plunger move towards the chime when ringing the doorbell.


My old mechanical chime is a 12VAC and it gongs more than chimes with my 24VAC transformer. I have not had any issues to date with the currently utilized transformer. I did replace the old transformer which matched the voltage to the mechanical chime when I first installed the video doorbell.

My set up here though is not stock and hasn't been for a while. I am using an Elk 930 Doorbell sensor and an Elk 960 debounce board for connectivity to my alarm panel.

 

[TechBill]

I could be wrong but if I remember right the EZVIZ app has a gear icon you can tap to go into the settings and get to that option. I did not use it much I ended up going with the RCA DB with Hik FW and the RCA app. The RCA app was ALOT like the EZVIZ app and I could swear it had the same little gear settings icon the RCA app has to get to that chime option.

We used to be able to select chime in setting but EZVIZ took it out about 3 updates ago. It will only show up when you are adding new devices to EZVIZ app

 

[TechBill]

You could utilize a VOM to check the power kit. It is a resistor. Unlikely that it would cease to function. The VOM would tell you if it was open or shorted.

Have someone stand next to your mechanical chime when you ring the doorbell. Too much voltage or not enough will make it buzz or do a dull gong rather than a chime. If you take the cover off you will see the plunger move towards the chime when ringing the doorbell.


My old mechanical chime is a 12VAC and it gongs more than chimes with my 24VAC transformer. I have not had any issues to date with the currently utilized transformer. I did replace the old transformer which matched the voltage to the mechanical chime when I first installed the video doorbell.

My set up here though is not stock and hasn't been for a while. I am using an Elk 930 Doorbell sensor and an Elk 960 debounce board for connectivity to my alarm panel.

Hrmmm too much voltage????

I am going to go lower the voltage on mine now to see if that fixes my issue

 

[TechBill]

You could utilize a VOM to check the power kit. It is a resistor. Unlikely that it would cease to function. The VOM would tell you if it was open or shorted.

Have someone stand next to your mechanical chime when you ring the doorbell. Too much voltage or not enough will make it buzz or do a dull gong rather than a chime. If you take the cover off you will see the plunger move towards the chime when ringing the doorbell.


My old mechanical chime is a 12VAC and it gongs more than chimes with my 24VAC transformer. I have not had any issues to date with the currently utilized transformer. I did replace the old transformer which matched the voltage to the mechanical chime when I first installed the video doorbell.

My set up here though is not stock and hasn't been for a while. I am using an Elk 930 Doorbell sensor and an Elk 960 debounce board for connectivity to my alarm panel.

I was running it on 16V 10A and I just tried it on 8V 10A. Voltage meter tested it at 9V

It only produced red led around doorbell.

 

[pete_c]

I was writing only about how the higher voltage affects a chime that is labeled a lower voltage. My Hikvision doorbell worked fine with the 12VAC old transformer. Never tried an 8VAC transformer. (just 12, 16 or 24). Just checking here and have the 16VAC 10VA transformer connected. I have the 24VAC 40VA transformer as a hot spare.

I have not touched the transformer now in a few months as my DB connection is fine.

Now very curious about the metal plate next to the battery. Might purchase another DB just to take it apart and have a look see.

 

[KC8DKT]

I was writing only about how the higher voltage affects a chime that is labeled a lower voltage. My Hikvision doorbell worked fine with the 12VAC old transformer. Never tried an 8VAC transformer. (just 12, 16 or 24). Just checking here and have the 16VAC 10VA transformer connected. I have the 24VAC 40VA transformer as a hot spare.

I have not touched the transformer now in a few months as my DB connection is fine.

Now very curious about the metal plate next to the battery. Might purchase another DB just to take it apart and have a look see.

The metal plate is NOT close to the INTERNAL batt. It has plastic on the INSIDE as well that isolates it from the inside. Only some of the metal can be seen from the mid point up to the top with STICKY heat pads on it. The back only has a speaker with 2 wires, them 2 wires are the ONLY thing you have to watch out for, EVERYTHING else is connected to the front side so nothing to pull off or brake.

Just try not to drop the little screws like I did.

 

[gudmundurg]

low and discontinued service power can lead to literally anything. Since you tried almost everything, I would certainly buy a proper transformer, it's not wasted money because even when you'll have to buy a new DB1, you will have the right transformer.

I recommend a good 12V/24V-40VA continuous service transformer, from a good brand, you'll spend €20-30.

I think you have a badly defective unit, to be replaced. It's not under warranty right?

Thanks again. I'll replace the power source.
I'm checking if I can somehow get the seller to work with me on a solution, refund, replace or something.

 

[rayt]

So the VDB and chime WAS working fine? "going to guess for about 6months at least"
NOW your VDB is still working BUT your "mechanical chime" has stopped working?

Huge guess on my part but I would assume you upgraded your transformer for the new VideoDoorBell install. I would assume you jumped 8v or 16v up to 24v transformer with out really knowing it. This has killed a good bit of Mechanical Chimes that worked fine for about 6 months then died. Again HUGE GUESS on my part.

EASY way to test and find out though!
Remove 1 of the 2 wires from the back of your VDB and short it to the other wire for about 3sec "MAX 5sec". If the chime makes a sound its a setting, software or problem with the VDB hardware, NO SOUND odds are good the chime is dead, unless a wire fell off or broke while you was working inside the chime box.

Good news is they are cheap, just get one to match the new transformers VOLTAGE that you are running your VDB from now.
OR get a digital door chime that will get power from a wall wort power pack and is wireless. I have not looked into the Digital Chimes my self so wait for some one with the same VDB with the same firmware as you to recommend a digital doorbell they have and know works if you plan to go that way.

Give some more info/update info on the transformer VOLTAGE (new trans volt and OLD trans volt if you replaced it) and what the 2 wire shorting test does if you try it.

Thanks, my transformer, i actually don't know where it is. had this with a previous hikvision 2mp doorbell for ages, worked fine, just that camera went out everytime someone rang the doorbell.
but yes this has been going strong for 6+ months, little to no drop outs. and chime working fine for those months. Now out of nowhere my mechanical chime stopped working. but i will try to short it and see if it rings.

i am using the hikvision app on my phone and have selected mechanical chime. my chime does have a 2nd chime for rear. will try connecting to that as well.
maybe just bad luck and dead chime.

 

[alexdelprete]

Thanks again. I'll replace the power source.
I'm checking if I can somehow get the seller to work with me on a solution, refund, replace or something.

I'm sorry for this, but I think we tried everything possible. I hope you can get the doorbell replaced at no cost, and buy a good transformer. Once you receive everything, I think you won't have all those issue.

The positive side of your story is that now you have quite a good understanding of how to setup the doorbell now.

 

[TechBill]

EZVIZ support asked me to take a photo that I did select the proper chime and send it to them. So to please them, I deleted it again and went through the whole process of adding DB1 again and took a screenshot of the chime selection. Then I email it off back to them last night.

I have not yet heard back from them yet but I did mentioned in the email last night that I frequency hang out in this forum and I am very well verses on their product.