New RCA HSDB2A 3MP Doorbell IP Camera
- Thread starter fleece
- Start date
bob2701
Getting comfortable
Guess no one uses their tongue anymoreWell, how else are you going to verify you have power?
Testing it today and need to tweak it some more. Noticed when I ring the doorbell the LED indicators both go off. Then a second or two later the closed switch LED goes on. Guessing that there is no current flow when the indicator LEDs go off. Will tweak the pot some more. Initially before turning the pot the closed switch LED remained on. Turned the pot until the open switch LED turned on.
Next piece to said project is to connect a 4 relay Tasmota device which will connect to the alarm panel zones. Will create one rule initially to enable one relay when the Hikvision DB PIR triggers. This way I get alarm zone trigger on the PIR and the Doorbell. Doing this because I have noticed that many Amazon deliveries are not ringing the doorbell lately.
Next piece to said project is to connect a 4 relay Tasmota device which will connect to the alarm panel zones. Will create one rule initially to enable one relay when the Hikvision DB PIR triggers. This way I get alarm zone trigger on the PIR and the Doorbell. Doing this because I have noticed that many Amazon deliveries are not ringing the doorbell lately.
Hey,
maybe someone can help - i'm not able to get the ezviz running with a chime or relay.
At first, i though the transformer is too weak or there were voltage spikes (or something other the powerkit can't handle); its a 12V / 1A AC Transformer. I tried a 24V 2A one, but also not working as expected.
Now I'm using a laboratory power supply for testing (on 12V DC the DB1+Chime is pulling 250-350mA without IR, 300-400mA with IR and 1100-1200mA while ringing).
OK, now my Problems:
I tried all Modes in the app (digital chime / mechanical chime / no chime), but it doesn't help (digital/mechanical chime difference is only the duration its ringing).
My target is, to use a relay instead of the chime in the future, because i want to use 1. a digital chime and 2. a ESP8266 for MQTT. But if i cant get the DB1 to work regulary, this is impossible (and not my topic in the moment).
PS: Another Possibility is to get connected to the Tactile Switch directly (maybe also the PIR?). But I'm afraid to brick the device, when I connect the tactile Switch to an ESP... This plan should only be the emergency option
What can I do to find possible errors? I read the 101 many times, wired up everthing many times (like here: ), but the problem persists.
maybe someone can help - i'm not able to get the ezviz running with a chime or relay.
At first, i though the transformer is too weak or there were voltage spikes (or something other the powerkit can't handle); its a 12V / 1A AC Transformer. I tried a 24V 2A one, but also not working as expected.
Now I'm using a laboratory power supply for testing (on 12V DC the DB1+Chime is pulling 250-350mA without IR, 300-400mA with IR and 1100-1200mA while ringing).
OK, now my Problems:
- Phantom Ringing on AC Voltage (12V / 24V) - without reason, the chime begins ringing and keeps ringing until you press the DB1. Sometimes this happens after short period, but my record is having it running 2 days. But when it's not ringing without interaction, its working as it should.
- Working one time only on DC Voltage - the powerkit is bypassing the current at first (as it should, so the chime is not rining). When I press the DB1, the DB1 creates a short, so the powerkit stops bypassing and the current flows through the chime; nice, but the system never returns to normal operation - chime keeps ringing and the DB1 shuts down after a few seconds; the laboratory power supply shows only the current the chime needs. I'm wondering, how people get it to work with DC Voltage.
I tried all Modes in the app (digital chime / mechanical chime / no chime), but it doesn't help (digital/mechanical chime difference is only the duration its ringing).
My target is, to use a relay instead of the chime in the future, because i want to use 1. a digital chime and 2. a ESP8266 for MQTT. But if i cant get the DB1 to work regulary, this is impossible (and not my topic in the moment).
PS: Another Possibility is to get connected to the Tactile Switch directly (maybe also the PIR?). But I'm afraid to brick the device, when I connect the tactile Switch to an ESP... This plan should only be the emergency option
What can I do to find possible errors? I read the 101 many times, wired up everthing many times (like here: ), but the problem persists.
I would guess 1) faulty power kit or 2) faulty DB1, open up the power kit, does it look like there's any components missing on the PCB.Hey,
maybe someone can help - i'm not able to get the ezviz running with a chime or relay.
At first, i though the transformer is too weak or there were voltage spikes (or something other the powerkit can't handle); its a 12V / 1A AC Transformer. I tried a 24V 2A one, but also not working as expected.
Now I'm using a laboratory power supply for testing (on 12V DC the DB1+Chime is pulling 250-350mA without IR, 300-400mA with IR and 1100-1200mA while ringing).
OK, now my Problems:
BTW: Its a Ezviz brand, but i flashed the HikVision FW. Everything else is working perfect (ONVIF, App, Configuration, Streaming and Recording on Raspberry).
- Phantom Ringing on AC Voltage (12V / 24V) - without reason, the chime begins ringing and keeps ringing until you press the DB1. Sometimes this happens after short period, but my record is having it running 2 days. But when it's not ringing without interaction, its working as it should.
- Working one time only on DC Voltage - the powerkit is bypassing the current at first (as it should, so the chime is not rining). When I press the DB1, the DB1 creates a short, so the powerkit stops bypassing and the current flows through the chime; nice, but the system never returns to normal operation - chime keeps ringing and the DB1 shuts down after a few seconds; the laboratory power supply shows only the current the chime needs. I'm wondering, how people get it to work with DC Voltage.
I tried all Modes in the app (digital chime / mechanical chime / no chime), but it doesn't help (digital/mechanical chime difference is only the duration its ringing).
My target is, to use a relay instead of the chime in the future, because i want to use 1. a digital chime and 2. a ESP8266 for MQTT. But if i cant get the DB1 to work regulary, this is impossible (and not my topic in the moment).
PS: Another Possibility is to get connected to the Tactile Switch directly (maybe also the PIR?). But I'm afraid to brick the device, when I connect the tactile Switch to an ESP... This plan should only be the emergency option
What can I do to find possible errors? I read the 101 many times, wired up everthing many times (like here: ), but the problem persists.
I was chasing a similar problem and after swapping DB1 and power kit between 2 locations the problem also moved. I suspect it was the power kit after opening it and finding components missing, although I sent the DB1 and powerkit back before wasting more time pinpointing which was at fault.
Thanks for your quick reply.
In Reference to your pictures from the power kit (New RCA HSDB2A 3MP Doorbell IP Camera), there are only 4 100Ohm Resistors missing (I think, the black parts on the backside with "100" print on were resistors), but somewhere in this thread i saw this already, seems to be normal. Maybe this in another Revision (between your F1 and OP1 is printed "1903" on PCB, on mine "2009").
What Chime are you using?Hey,
maybe someone can help - i'm not able to get the ezviz running with a chime or relay.
At first, i though the transformer is too weak or there were voltage spikes (or something other the powerkit can't handle); its a 12V / 1A AC Transformer. I tried a 24V 2A one, but also not working as expected.
Now I'm using a laboratory power supply for testing (on 12V DC the DB1+Chime is pulling 250-350mA without IR, 300-400mA with IR and 1100-1200mA while ringing).
OK, now my Problems:
BTW: Its a Ezviz brand, but i flashed the HikVision FW. Everything else is working perfect (ONVIF, App, Configuration, Streaming and Recording on Raspberry).
- Phantom Ringing on AC Voltage (12V / 24V) - without reason, the chime begins ringing and keeps ringing until you press the DB1. Sometimes this happens after short period, but my record is having it running 2 days. But when it's not ringing without interaction, its working as it should.
- Working one time only on DC Voltage - the powerkit is bypassing the current at first (as it should, so the chime is not rining). When I press the DB1, the DB1 creates a short, so the powerkit stops bypassing and the current flows through the chime; nice, but the system never returns to normal operation - chime keeps ringing and the DB1 shuts down after a few seconds; the laboratory power supply shows only the current the chime needs. I'm wondering, how people get it to work with DC Voltage.
I tried all Modes in the app (digital chime / mechanical chime / no chime), but it doesn't help (digital/mechanical chime difference is only the duration its ringing).
My target is, to use a relay instead of the chime in the future, because i want to use 1. a digital chime and 2. a ESP8266 for MQTT. But if i cant get the DB1 to work regulary, this is impossible (and not my topic in the moment).
PS: Another Possibility is to get connected to the Tactile Switch directly (maybe also the PIR?). But I'm afraid to brick the device, when I connect the tactile Switch to an ESP... This plan should only be the emergency option
What can I do to find possible errors? I read the 101 many times, wired up everthing many times (like here: ), but the problem persists.
Does yours have 4 resistors missing? My suspected faulty power kit only has 3 missing.
Can't see any other PCB changes. I was thinking the different codes were just production dates and there might have been a production fault with missing resistors.
I'm waiting for replacement so I'll have to see how that goes...
Here is a drawing to connect the Hikvision ONVIF to MQTT plugin to a WiFi switch. Note this will create one Hikvision DB zone on the alarm panel.
Here utilize an if then statement in Homeseer and or Home Assistant to do a text to speech doorbell announcement via Microsoft SAPI or Alexa TTS and a text / email message including a snapshot. Will include a command to trigger the above relay via MQTT.
Here utilize an if then statement in Homeseer and or Home Assistant to do a text to speech doorbell announcement via Microsoft SAPI or Alexa TTS and a text / email message including a snapshot. Will include a command to trigger the above relay via MQTT.
Last edited:
It's a coil/solenoid one. No further Description on it. It was installed together with an 12V AC Transformer in a House.
It seems to be designed for AC btw.
At the moment I'm testing with another Chime (coil/solenoid too, but with 2 Sounds). The coilwindings are thicker and its now working for ~10 Hours. I leave it alone for another day and will measure the Resistance of all Chimes - I think, the Resistance is somewhat important. But without further Description of the Powerkit it is impossible to find the Range, in which the Chime has to be.
In the final Circuit i will use this Relay: Finder 40.61.9.012.0000 (i know, its DC, but I think it will do the Job and there is no further Circuit (Rectifier) in it, which would make it even harder to get it work with the powerkit). My Plan is now, to get the Chime working - and after that I will replace the Chime with the Relay (with resistors in Series/Parallel).
Sorry, you are right - 3 resistors missing, not four.
Hi guys/gals. Long time reader first time poster. Reading some of this thread helped me choose this doorbell, which has been mostly a fantastic unit. I've been having an issue I can't resolve. The cam randomly goes "offline" in the Ezviz/Guarding vision apps which requires me to reboot it to reconnect. (I usually just flip the breaker). While the cam is offline it's still on the network and replies to pings. I've tried searching this thread and done a lot of troubleshooting, but it's time to ask for help.
Nelly Security 200321 firmware, recently updated from the Dec 2019 firmware, same issue.
The network is all Unifi, AP is a Flex HD 10' away from the cam, 40-55 dBm.
I don't know what the transformer VA is because I can't find it. I've decided it's probably mounted to the side of the circuit panel behind the drywall. Chime power kit installed, disconnect times don't seem related to doorbell presses.
Shows offline every 1-10 days.
Because it's still on the network I set it up in SSS, which seemed to work, but the videos would never play. I get a thumbnail, and it records something that is taking up space, but I can't watch the video. Even when it's "offline" in the EZVIZ/GV apps SSS is recording something.
I didn't want to ask the question because I'm sure the answer is on one of these 310 pages, but I can't find it. This is my first IP, and I'm struggggggling. TIA for any help.
Bill
Nelly Security 200321 firmware, recently updated from the Dec 2019 firmware, same issue.
The network is all Unifi, AP is a Flex HD 10' away from the cam, 40-55 dBm.
I don't know what the transformer VA is because I can't find it. I've decided it's probably mounted to the side of the circuit panel behind the drywall. Chime power kit installed, disconnect times don't seem related to doorbell presses.
Shows offline every 1-10 days.
Because it's still on the network I set it up in SSS, which seemed to work, but the videos would never play. I get a thumbnail, and it records something that is taking up space, but I can't watch the video. Even when it's "offline" in the EZVIZ/GV apps SSS is recording something.
I didn't want to ask the question because I'm sure the answer is on one of these 310 pages, but I can't find it. This is my first IP, and I'm struggggggling. TIA for any help.
Bill
Welcome to the IPCamTalk forum Bill!!!
Here using the Nelly hardware version with Hkivision firmware with no issues. That and I do not use the cloud app; rather just VPN to my home network.
Doing my home network here a la carte using a PFSense firewall and Ruckus WAPs. (IE: started a few years ago with Ubiquiti WAPs).
You need to find your doorbell AC transformer.
Mine has been in the basement on past homes with basements and mounted externally on fuse panel in homes with no basements. In FL the fuse panel was in the garage and the transformer was above the fuse panel mounted to a small single gang box. Hire an electrician if you feel uncomfortable tinkering with your electric.
Can you see the doorbell / chime / transformer wires any where? I helped my son find his transformer as it was buried in his rafters.
Remove the cover of your fuse panel and if the transformer is connected to your panel you will see the wires going in to the panel and may see the bottom of the transformer connection.
I had to upgrade my transformer when going from the Ring Doorbell to the Hikvision DB. Well and upgrade OmniPro alarm panel connections.
Here using the Nelly hardware version with Hkivision firmware with no issues. That and I do not use the cloud app; rather just VPN to my home network.
Doing my home network here a la carte using a PFSense firewall and Ruckus WAPs. (IE: started a few years ago with Ubiquiti WAPs).
You need to find your doorbell AC transformer.
Mine has been in the basement on past homes with basements and mounted externally on fuse panel in homes with no basements. In FL the fuse panel was in the garage and the transformer was above the fuse panel mounted to a small single gang box. Hire an electrician if you feel uncomfortable tinkering with your electric.
Can you see the doorbell / chime / transformer wires any where? I helped my son find his transformer as it was buried in his rafters.
Remove the cover of your fuse panel and if the transformer is connected to your panel you will see the wires going in to the panel and may see the bottom of the transformer connection.
I had to upgrade my transformer when going from the Ring Doorbell to the Hikvision DB. Well and upgrade OmniPro alarm panel connections.
I'm having trouble getting the HIKvision DS-HD1's Live video working acceptably. It is blocky and any movement in the field of view causes more blocks to appear. I'm using the Homebridge Videodoorbell plug-in, but that's based on the ffmpeg camera plug-in so settings should be the same. What video config did you use? Is your live stream good quality?
Last edited:
Thanks for the reply pete_c. I spent a lot of time looking for the transformer before buying the DB. It's a 3 story townhouse and the panel is on the back wall of the lowest floor. I took the cover off but didn't see the transformer or wires. We're renting so I can't open any walls. I'll have to search again. I found some wires running through the garage that are either the DB or an old security system control panel that's near the front door.
Also, in SSS the doorbell was showing disconnected every minute. I have since removed the cam from SSS.
Here's the current huge problem. I'm out of town, and will be for a few weeks, and will spend most of the next few months away. I really need the doorbell so I can watch for packages and such. I grabbed some Arlo cams to help keep an eye on things. Not the best solution, but I was only in town 2 days and needed a really quick setup. I have a VPN setup so I can keep troubleshooting while away.
The doorbell doesn't drop continuous pings, so I now it's staying online most of the time. Is there any way to set it to reboot every day so if it does lose connection it'll eventually come back up?
Thanks again for the help.
Bill
Just a small Status-Update:
My Unit seems to be a strange one. I tested until yesterday with another chime - everything was working. I changed the Chime again to measure (as promised) the Specs of the Chimes, but suddenly they worked, too. So I changed at last to the relay (nothing else connected) to check this out. But it is not working - and now i have phantom ringing again, no matter which chime I connect.
Maybe the internal battery-state or Capacitor (Charged or Charging) has to do with it, too.
Data of Chime #1:
Resistance: 7.4 Ohm
Inductivity: 11.28 mH
Chime #2:
Resistance: 6.3 Ohm
Inductivity: 8.22 mH
Chime #3:
Resistance: 4.7 Ohm
Inductivity: 4.85 mH
Chime #1 is the initial setup. Chime #2 is the one I testet since beginning of the year. I tested #3 for only a short period, so no further infos now.
I will keep testing - i found another transformer, which i will test the next days.
What keeps me thoughtful: Is it only me (and @fredkruger) having this kind of problem? Does anybody know, if there is a circuit, which would support the powerkit (like a diode-solution - i didn't try it yet).
My Unit seems to be a strange one. I tested until yesterday with another chime - everything was working. I changed the Chime again to measure (as promised) the Specs of the Chimes, but suddenly they worked, too. So I changed at last to the relay (nothing else connected) to check this out. But it is not working - and now i have phantom ringing again, no matter which chime I connect.
Maybe the internal battery-state or Capacitor (Charged or Charging) has to do with it, too.
Data of Chime #1:
Resistance: 7.4 Ohm
Inductivity: 11.28 mH
Chime #2:
Resistance: 6.3 Ohm
Inductivity: 8.22 mH
Chime #3:
Resistance: 4.7 Ohm
Inductivity: 4.85 mH
Chime #1 is the initial setup. Chime #2 is the one I testet since beginning of the year. I tested #3 for only a short period, so no further infos now.
I will keep testing - i found another transformer, which i will test the next days.
What keeps me thoughtful: Is it only me (and @fredkruger) having this kind of problem? Does anybody know, if there is a circuit, which would support the powerkit (like a diode-solution - i didn't try it yet).
TechBill
Known around here
- Nov 1, 2014
- 1,826
- 1,186
Electric code will not allow any connector be buried behind a wall and you mentioned it a townhouse so I am pretty sure it was built to code. It most likely in the maintenance room (where the furnace and water heater tank are in but keep in mind that furnace does have it own transformer so it wouldn't be the one if it connected to it) or in the attic mounted to a gang box on some rafter.
Mine was in the attic and my parent was in the maintenance room. Both was mounted on a gang box.
Here are photo of some of the few examples i found off the net ...
@baaam My suggestion is a Toner/Probe. These are Great for finding cables. Mine was in the attic but hidden under radiant barrier attached to the attic light/junction box. At your Chime, make note of the cable jacket/color, take a picture. You can trace from either the Doorbell or the Chime, they both end up at the transformer. In my case there were two cable runs, one from each meeting at the transformer. I traced from the Doorbell.
I have only tried a few cheaper Toners, some of them don't do well with long distance runs but they should be just fine for you. I have a Fluke, but I used it a lot at work...So $20-30 range should be fine, read reviews. Also you will be buying a Transformer, so add another $25, so $50 total for your fix, unless you find your trans. without a toner/probe...
A few pics from my install:
Mine required me to drag up a ladder to get to it, so look up too
, but not sure how a Townhouse would be wired.
Don't let the last picture scare you, it actually is quite simple to change out a trans., just make sure Power is off, you already know where your breaker is. Just re-hook up every wire like your existing/old one...
Amazon.com : toner probe
www.amazon.com
I have only tried a few cheaper Toners, some of them don't do well with long distance runs but they should be just fine for you. I have a Fluke, but I used it a lot at work...So $20-30 range should be fine, read reviews. Also you will be buying a Transformer, so add another $25, so $50 total for your fix, unless you find your trans. without a toner/probe...
A few pics from my install:
Mine required me to drag up a ladder to get to it, so look up too
, but not sure how a Townhouse would be wired.Don't let the last picture scare you, it actually is quite simple to change out a trans., just make sure Power is off, you already know where your breaker is. Just re-hook up every wire like your existing/old one...