Guess no one uses their tongue anymoreWell, how else are you going to verify you have power?
I would guess 1) faulty power kit or 2) faulty DB1, open up the power kit, does it look like there's any components missing on the PCB.Hey,
maybe someone can help - i'm not able to get the ezviz running with a chime or relay.
At first, i though the transformer is too weak or there were voltage spikes (or something other the powerkit can't handle); its a 12V / 1A AC Transformer. I tried a 24V 2A one, but also not working as expected.
Now I'm using a laboratory power supply for testing (on 12V DC the DB1+Chime is pulling 250-350mA without IR, 300-400mA with IR and 1100-1200mA while ringing).
OK, now my Problems:
BTW: Its a Ezviz brand, but i flashed the HikVision FW. Everything else is working perfect (ONVIF, App, Configuration, Streaming and Recording on Raspberry).
- Phantom Ringing on AC Voltage (12V / 24V) - without reason, the chime begins ringing and keeps ringing until you press the DB1. Sometimes this happens after short period, but my record is having it running 2 days. But when it's not ringing without interaction, its working as it should.
- Working one time only on DC Voltage - the powerkit is bypassing the current at first (as it should, so the chime is not rining). When I press the DB1, the DB1 creates a short, so the powerkit stops bypassing and the current flows through the chime; nice, but the system never returns to normal operation - chime keeps ringing and the DB1 shuts down after a few seconds; the laboratory power supply shows only the current the chime needs. I'm wondering, how people get it to work with DC Voltage.
I tried all Modes in the app (digital chime / mechanical chime / no chime), but it doesn't help (digital/mechanical chime difference is only the duration its ringing).
My target is, to use a relay instead of the chime in the future, because i want to use 1. a digital chime and 2. a ESP8266 for MQTT. But if i cant get the DB1 to work regulary, this is impossible (and not my topic in the moment).
PS: Another Possibility is to get connected to the Tactile Switch directly (maybe also the PIR?). But I'm afraid to brick the device, when I connect the tactile Switch to an ESP... This plan should only be the emergency option
What can I do to find possible errors? I read the 101 many times, wired up everthing many times (like here: ), but the problem persists.
I would guess 1) faulty power kit or 2) faulty DB1, open up the power kit, does it look like there's any components missing on the PCB.
I was chasing a similar problem and after swapping DB1 and power kit between 2 locations the problem also moved. I suspect it was the power kit after opening it and finding components missing, although I sent the DB1 and powerkit back before wasting more time pinpointing which was at fault.
What Chime are you using?Hey,
maybe someone can help - i'm not able to get the ezviz running with a chime or relay.
At first, i though the transformer is too weak or there were voltage spikes (or something other the powerkit can't handle); its a 12V / 1A AC Transformer. I tried a 24V 2A one, but also not working as expected.
Now I'm using a laboratory power supply for testing (on 12V DC the DB1+Chime is pulling 250-350mA without IR, 300-400mA with IR and 1100-1200mA while ringing).
OK, now my Problems:
BTW: Its a Ezviz brand, but i flashed the HikVision FW. Everything else is working perfect (ONVIF, App, Configuration, Streaming and Recording on Raspberry).
- Phantom Ringing on AC Voltage (12V / 24V) - without reason, the chime begins ringing and keeps ringing until you press the DB1. Sometimes this happens after short period, but my record is having it running 2 days. But when it's not ringing without interaction, its working as it should.
- Working one time only on DC Voltage - the powerkit is bypassing the current at first (as it should, so the chime is not rining). When I press the DB1, the DB1 creates a short, so the powerkit stops bypassing and the current flows through the chime; nice, but the system never returns to normal operation - chime keeps ringing and the DB1 shuts down after a few seconds; the laboratory power supply shows only the current the chime needs. I'm wondering, how people get it to work with DC Voltage.
I tried all Modes in the app (digital chime / mechanical chime / no chime), but it doesn't help (digital/mechanical chime difference is only the duration its ringing).
My target is, to use a relay instead of the chime in the future, because i want to use 1. a digital chime and 2. a ESP8266 for MQTT. But if i cant get the DB1 to work regulary, this is impossible (and not my topic in the moment).
PS: Another Possibility is to get connected to the Tactile Switch directly (maybe also the PIR?). But I'm afraid to brick the device, when I connect the tactile Switch to an ESP... This plan should only be the emergency option
What can I do to find possible errors? I read the 101 many times, wired up everthing many times (like here: ), but the problem persists.
Does yours have 4 resistors missing? My suspected faulty power kit only has 3 missing.Thanks for your quick reply.
In Reference to your pictures from the power kit (New RCA HSDB2A 3MP Doorbell IP Camera), there are only 4 100Ohm Resistors missing (I think, the black parts on the backside with "100" print on were resistors), but somewhere in this thread i saw this already, seems to be normal. Maybe this in another Revision (between your F1 and OP1 is printed "1903" on PCB, on mine "2009").
What Chime are you using?
Does yours have 4 resistors missing? My suspected faulty power kit only has 3 missing.
Can't see any other PCB changes. I was thinking the different codes were just production dates and there might have been a production fault with missing resistors.
I'm waiting for replacement so I'll have to see how that goes...
I'm having trouble getting the HIKvision DS-HD1's Live video working acceptably. It is blocky and any movement in the field of view causes more blocks to appear. I'm using the Homebridge Videodoorbell plug-in, but that's based on the ffmpeg camera plug-in so settings should be the same. What video config did you use? Is your live stream good quality?Thanks to this thread and all the info I was able to get this Doorbell camera into HomeKit (via Homebridge) to see the video feed. I'll work on seeing if I can write a plugin to actually show motion and video alerts in HomeKit.
Welcome to the IPCamTalk forum Bill!!!
Thanks for the reply pete_c. I spent a lot of time looking for the transformer before buying the DB. It's a 3 story townhouse and the panel is on the back wall of the lowest floor. I took the cover off but didn't see the transformer or wires. We're renting so I can't open any walls. I'll have to search again. I found some wires running through the garage that are either the DB or an old security system control panel that's near the front door.
Also, in SSS the doorbell was showing disconnected every minute. I have since removed the cam from SSS.
Here's the current huge problem. I'm out of town, and will be for a few weeks, and will spend most of the next few months away. I really need the doorbell so I can watch for packages and such. I grabbed some Arlo cams to help keep an eye on things. Not the best solution, but I was only in town 2 days and needed a really quick setup. I have a VPN setup so I can keep troubleshooting while away.
The doorbell doesn't drop continuous pings, so I now it's staying online most of the time. Is there any way to set it to reboot every day so if it does lose connection it'll eventually come back up?
Thanks again for the help.
Bill